Front Loader Washer = No Mold; Does One Exist

stockwatchOctober 11, 2010

I think I finally have gotten tired of looking at the mold around the gasket of our Whirlpool Duet that we purchased at Lowes back in 2007. I have talked with Lowes about replacing the gasket (as many of you all know, it is apparently not under warranty) and figure with the costs to repair, I might as well buy a replacement (yes, I have tried blease, Affresh, etc. to no avail).

The world has changed with much more marketing gizmos and an abundances of other suppliers.

Question for all of my wise forum family members.

Have you found a front load washer that survives the no mold test or is this just a pipe dream?

The salesman at sears told me that in his "expert" opinion, Samsung model that happened to also be the most expensive does the trick. You just need to remember to keep the door cracked.

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FWIW....I've had your machine for 5 1/2 years with none of these issues. Thing is still squeeky-clean throughout. I am aware of the many complaints like yours from reading here, plus the myriad responses. Must say I still don't get it.

    Bookmark   October 11, 2010 at 6:40PM
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There are millions of Front loads in use without mold.

Your message is akin to asking are there any accident free cars.
Cars are generally accident free if you drive safely and provide the proper maintaince.

If a frontload is used with regular combinations of hot, warm and cold washes, the correct doasage of detergent and fabric softener, your chances of having scrud that the mold feeds on is practically nil.

    Bookmark   October 11, 2010 at 7:04PM
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"Regular combinations of hot, warm and cold washes" is inadequate advice, if the washer doesn't do a true hot wash when "Hot" is selected. Judging from the recent discussion, there are such machines on the market. And if there's no sanitary cycle, what is the solution?

    Bookmark   October 11, 2010 at 7:37PM
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I have had my FL for over 9 yrs with no mold or mildew issues. I do not overload it with detergents, oxy clean and other additives. Also if you wash mainly in cold water, you may run into mold issues as cold water cannot break down body oils, soil, and such as well was warm and hot water washes. Many owners manuals now tell you to wash in hot or warm water to reduce the "scud" that can build up in a washing machine. This scud does build up in a conventional toploader as well over time as I have personally seen it when working on friends toploaders.

    Bookmark   October 11, 2010 at 7:42PM
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It makes no sense to replace an entire washing machine rather than replace just a gasket.

Even without the mold issue, I expect to have to replace that gasket at some point in the life of the machine.

My neighbor has replaced the gasket in his LG.

The only reason to replace rather than repair any machine IMO is if the new machine is SO much better in some way. Trust me, any FL machine you pick today, Samsung or otherwise, is not going to be so much better than that Duet. With the cooler temperatures many of the new machines are mixing, you could say the newer ones are worse.

If you don't want to replace the gasket yourself, you might want to shop around for repair rates. Lowes probably subcontracts those services.

    Bookmark   October 11, 2010 at 8:01PM
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I can't buy the "replace gasket" advice. All I can imagine is that the rubber boot is simply the most conspicuous place for the scrud to be seen. If it's there, it is everywhere else, too. What's the point in replacing the visible when when the objectionable material is certainly everywhere else, too? Seems like a cosmetic "look-good; feel good" solution to me.

1 Like    Bookmark   October 11, 2010 at 11:09PM
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"Regular combinations of hot, warm and cold washes" is just a partial quote and is only inadequate if you don't follow the complete advice of using "the correct doasage of detergent and fabric softener"

Heaters in American washers are only a recent event of the last 8 or so years. Washers have been built for the previous 60+ years without any form of boosted heat. Yes front load washers and top load washers.
What has really changed is the detergents have gotten worse and people have turned their water heaters down to almost bath water temperatures.
Washers without heaters don't turn hot water colder, if the water is too hot they just take whatever temperature is delivered to them and use it. The only heat loss is due to natural convection of heat to the tank. By the way the Poly tanks have less heat loss than the old metal tanks.

So if you want a hotter wash and your washer doesn't have a heater or has an inadequate one I suggest you do like your parents, grand parents and great grand parents did and start with hotter water at the source, the hot water heater.
If you don't want to turn up the water heater and use more hot washes then suffer the consequence of less clean wash and scrud build up.

Sorry I seem to be ranting again. Seems to happen every 6 months or so.

    Bookmark   October 12, 2010 at 12:19AM
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Of the tens of millions of Americans who do laundry, maybe a few thousand find their way here, to get the Truth about solving their laundry problems. And then, once they get past the insults, some of the solutions aren't even usable. For example, cranking up the domestic water heater isn't going to help, if you own a machine with ATC hot (see recent Samsung discussion). If ATC isn't an issue, it may still be impractical to crank up the water heater. In the absence of temperature-balancing faucets throughout the house, very hot water can be dangerous.

Detergents apparently have gotten worse in the absence of phosphates. But the appliance industry knows that, so what is their excuse for selling machines that don't work well with readily available products, and with a water heater setting of 120degF, which is recommended in washer manuals themselves, as well as everywhere else?

Bottom line is that the public is being victimized by the appliance industry, which has chosen the easy $250/unit tax credit over making well-performing washing machines. I'm not sure how to characterize Consumer Reports' role, in refusing to educate the public about how the system works.

1 Like    Bookmark   October 12, 2010 at 9:45AM
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"Detergents apparently have gotten worse in the absence of phosphates. But the appliance industry knows that, so what is their excuse for selling machines that don't work well with readily available products, and with a water heater setting of 120degF, which is recommended in washer manuals themselves, as well as everywhere else?"

A large part of the problem, imo, is that the majority of customers in the US don't want to install 240V service for their washers, so the manufacturers give them what they want - 120V machines, which just don't perform as well. The manufacturers have no problems supplying machines with higher temperature washes to the rest of the world.

I have only ever had 240V FL's over here - the Philips my ex and I brought over with us, an Asko and now a Miele Little Giant, and would never voluntarily go with a 120V FL.

I have also never had any mold problems in over 40 year of using FL's.

    Bookmark   October 12, 2010 at 10:09AM
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So what your saying is that tens of millions experience poor wash performance but only less than one hundredth of one percent complain or find their way to this forum? Here again I say its the user and not the machine otherwise why do I see the same scrud build up in toploads that use up to 50 gallons of water with each use? Can't hardly say that the water has been cut down with them.
I see the same complaints with wash ablilty with both top loads and frontloads.
Bottom line the public is being victimized by lack of education. Things in all industries change, an educated public keeps up with change. those that don't keep up experience poor results.
Some come here to complain about their product some come here to be educated on how to work with their product. It's the nature of the beast.
Detergent manufacturers need to keep up with with the new laws that appliances now must meet for energy and water use. The tax credits for manufacturers are there to encourage them to not wait for 2012 to meet the 2012 requirements.

    Bookmark   October 12, 2010 at 10:22AM
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Why is it that the first option is to replace the machine? If the machines are made so inexpensively that it's preferable to replace them rather than clean them, we have a major problem. Take your machine apart, clean the drum, replace the gasket, and then train yourself on how to properly launder in a front-loader to avoid this issue to begin with. That's what I would do.

    Bookmark   October 12, 2010 at 10:51AM
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I agree, I would take the gasket out, clean it, or replace it if needed. you can buy online the manuals on how to work on your washer. more than likely if your machine has mold in in after three years of use, if you replace the machine, you will have the sme problem again.

    Bookmark   October 12, 2010 at 11:00AM
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I have a 9 year old Frigidaire FL - no on board heater. I do keep my hot water tank set above the recommended temp.

I have always kept my door open after use. I have never wiped down the gasket.

For years I didn't do any major maintenance. I now run some Smelly Washer (probably citric acid) through once a month on a hot cycle.

For years I used Tide. In recent years I switched to more "eco" brands like Ecover, BioVert, BioKleen , Method and Vaska. I also use some Persil.

For years I used Downy Free & Clear fabric softener. In recent years I switched to a more âÂÂecoâ brand (Shaklee Get Clean Fresh Laundry).

For many years I have used vinegar in rinse water for sheets/towels which I never use FS on.

In the beginning I used hot/warm washes mixed with cold. At some point, IâÂÂm sure I was doing mostly cold washes. I have now returned to warm/hot mixed with some cold. It just cleans better.

Never had a mold issue - not in the machine - not on the gasket. The mold issue puzzles me. It must develop because of a bad machine design (see story below) and a combination of bad user practices.

I have a friend who builds custom homes - so moves quite often. She never had a problem with her Duet or her Miele but she once had an LG that was just disgusting with mold. Everything stunk (especially towels). She actually cried over the frustration of trying to remedy that machine. She moved and purchased MieleâÂÂs and never had a problem. She lived in the home with the LG for about a year. How could she develop such a problem in such a short time when she hadnâÂÂt had issues before?

For her latest house she considered going back to the Duets but when she was told they had added an âÂÂAffreshâ dispenser and recommend using Affresh often to maintain a mold free machine she said, âÂÂback to MieleâÂÂ.

    Bookmark   October 12, 2010 at 12:20PM
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Sadly most of the machine manufacturers are in bed with the detergent manufacturers. How else could a Whirlpool product contain an Affresh dispenser unless Whirlpool was receiving a monetary benefit from the makers of Affresh? Or perhaps Affresh is owned by Whirlpool? There is a relationship there, obviously.

Someone at Whirlpool must have thought this was a good idea to avoid returns and lawsuits, however to me it is admitting some level of failure up front. Miele recommends a regular cleaning routine, but they also only recommend the use of bleach to clean the machine and then only if you do a lot of cold or lukewarm washes. No need for a special dispenser or branded product.

The Whirlpool/Affresh thing is silly marketing. Just like Tide w/ Febreeze... or Cascade w/ Dawn... or...

    Bookmark   October 12, 2010 at 2:04PM
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Recently sold my Samsung set that I purchased 2 years ago for a used Miele set that is much smaller (kids out od house). The Samsung had smell issues even though I could never see mold.

The Miele washer, model 1213 240 v works perfectly. We have very hot water (solar) that usually runs 145 degrees F. I run a variety of loads using everything from cold to very hot. Haven't used sanitize yet. I wipe the door and gasket and leave the door open when not in use.

We live in the tropics with no ac. Lots of mold issues elsewhere but not in my laundry.

    Bookmark   October 12, 2010 at 3:02PM
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sshrivastava, Affresh is def owned by Whirlpool (Maytag). $6.99 for 3 tablets plus $6.99 shipping (if ordered from Whirlpool) is $4.66/tablet/month.

Here is an excerpt from their owner manual.

Washer Maintenance Procedure
This washer has a special cycle that uses higher water volumes and steam, in combination with AFFRESHî washer cleaner or liquid chlorine bleach, to thoroughly clean the inside of the washer.

Begin procedure
1.Open the washer door and remove any clothing or items from the washer.

2.Using the AFFRESHî washer cleaner (Recommended):
Add one AFFRESHî washer cleaner tablet to the washer drum.

If using liquid chlorine bleach:
Open the dispenser drawer and immediately add 2/3 cup (160 mL) of liquid chlorine bleach to the bleach compartment.

NOTE: Do not add any detergent to this cycle. Use of more than 2/3 cup (160 mL) of bleach will cause product damage over time.

3.Close the washer door and dispenser drawer.


5.Press START.

NOTE: The basket will rotate, then the door will unlock, lock again, and then the cycle will continue.

- The machine will bring in some inlet water, and the basket will rotate while the washer runs a short sensing cycle. This will take approximately 3 minutes.

6.The cycle will determine whether clothing or other items are in the washer.
a)If no items are detected in the washer, it will proceed to Step 7.

b) If any items are detected in the washer, âÂÂrLâ (remove load) will be displayed, and the WASH and CONTROL LOCK lights will remain lit. The door will unlock. Open and remove any garments in the wash drum.

Press PAUSE/CANCEL to cancel the failure code. Then repeat steps 3, 4, and 5 to start the cycle again.

7.Once the cycle has begun, allow the cycle to complete.

8.After the cycle is complete, leave the door open slightly, to allow for better ventilation and drying of washer interior.

Always do the following to maintain washer freshness
- Use only HE High Efficiency detergent.
- Leave the door slightly open after each cycle to allow for better ventilation and drying of washer interior.
- Repeat the cleaning procedure monthly, using one AFFRESHî tablet or 2/3 cup (160 mL) of liquid chlorine bleach.
- If the procedure does not sufficiently improve the machine freshness, evaluate your installation and usage conditions for other causes.

Here is a link that might be useful: Whirlpool Care Guide

    Bookmark   October 12, 2010 at 5:03PM
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"....evaluate your installation and usage conditions for other causes."

I suspect that if people did this FIRST, the rest wouldn't be needed. Certainly hasn't been in mine.

    Bookmark   October 12, 2010 at 7:26PM
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jakvis, I'm not aware of any new requirements for 2012, just 2011. But in searching for them, I did find the document below. If these go through as planned, the standards that now earn the $250 tax credit will be mandatory in 2015. And there'll be new, stricter requirements for tax credits. That's four years from now, not one year. The time difference is somewhat beside the point, anyway. The problem is that the industry is having it both ways -- they're getting the credit, but fooling the public into thinking that they're fulfilling a mandatory requirement. If the public knew these were voluntary standards, they could reject the inferior products that are being sold, and then maybe the industry would try harder and really produce something good that meets the tax credit standards...or perhaps they'd be seen as unattainable, and wouldn't advance to mandatory status.

Where is the public supposed to go, to "keep up" with changes in laundry? The only laundry "education" or "re-education" I've seen, outside of this forum and, is the usual propaganda about doing cold washes. Do you really mean that we're supposed to be the source of laundry education for tens of millions of users, and it's ok for the industry to abdicate its responsibility?

You see scrud in top-loaders as well as front-loaders, and this tells you that the user is the problem? I would think it means that the machines are the problem, both top-loaders and front-loaders.

There really is a "blame the victim" attitude among some posters here. Well, here I'm not a victim, because I have a Miele and I can use phosphates. But I got sensitized to this attitude from my experience with a completely different product, a smartphone. My phone happens to have serious WiFi problems, and I'm not alone in this. But for some reason, WiFi works fine for some users. Some of those users, a minority but a vocal one, like to say there's nothing wrong with anyone's phone, and our problems are our own fault. Same thing happens here.

Here is a link that might be useful:

    Bookmark   October 13, 2010 at 12:06AM
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Whirlpool does own Affresh. It contains effective cleaning agents: sodium percarbonate, sodium carbonate, and boric acid. Basically, OxiClean plus boric acid. It is definitely overpriced for what it contains. But it is stocked at Target, Lowes, etc, so people do not need to pay for shipping.

(Febreze is not a marketing gimmick either. It is a pretty nifty molecule that traps odor molecules inside it while it is wet and then pulls them away with it as it dries. It works and is useful in certain situations.)

Why is it considered a savvy user who "regularly uses hot and warm washes" that keep the washer clean and residue-free, but a gimmick to use a long, hot cycle with the tub empty of clothes and full of effective cleaning and sanitizing agents to do the same thing?

If anything, it is better to run an empty tub to clean the washer. The cleaners and the length and heat of the cycle would be hard on clothes. And if the clothes are dirty, the hot water and cleaners have to remove that dirt as well as any contained in the washer tub and parts. You basically have to expose clothes to more cleaner than they need, or else expose the washer to less cleaner than it needs.

The Whirlpool does not contain an Affresh dispenser; the Affresh tablet is simply tossed into the empty tub.

This is no more gimmicky than Miele's you-must-use-this-detergent-only stance or requiring water softeners in dishwashers, etc.

jakvis, it's not true that washers deliver tap-hot water into the machine. Many washers being sold right now do NOT. The Whirlpool rep told me, for example, that my machine is programmed to bring in cold and hot when the "Hot" temp is selected, to achieve a target temp of 90-100 degrees assuming the water heater is set to the recommended 120 degrees.

To the OP: before replacing the gasket, I would try every cleaning possibility. There are at least 3 types of washer cleaners: 1. Affresh/OxiClean/Tide washing machine cleaner. 2. Smelly Washer, which contains a "citrus" ingredient, probably citric acid and/or d-limonene. 3. Chlorine bleach, which WP lists as an alternative. I would use them all, first the Smelly Washer/citric acid to cut through residues, then the Affresh/OxiClean to further remove residues and kill microorganisms, then Clorox to kill anything that might be left. All in the hottest, longest cycle of the machine. Then maybe run an extra rinse, warm.

Then, I would try Clorox bleach pen applied to all the mildew stains remaining on the gasket. The pen version is thickened so it stays on the surface better, giving it time to kill the mildew and bleach out the stains. This has worked on some, but not all, mildew stained-grout I have treated. If any mildew stains remain, I would then replace the gasket.

    Bookmark   October 14, 2010 at 1:09PM
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OT but ..

water softeners in dishwashers are gimmicky?

If the water is soft (i.e. does not contain calcium particles), the detergent will work more effectively and there will be less streaking on dishes. Hard water can also block the washer jets with lime scale and cause deposits on heating elements, which will reduce the cleaning efficiency, increase electricity costs and shorten the life of the machine.

    Bookmark   October 14, 2010 at 5:26PM
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Andersons said: This is no more gimmicky than Miele's you-must-use-this-detergent-only stance or requiring water softeners in dishwashers, etc.I disagree with this. I read through Miele's literature and manual, nowhere do I remember seeing anything regarding using a specific detergent. If it's there, the impact was totally lost on me. In fact, the manual simply says to use an HE detergent and to follow the detergent manufacturer's instructions. I feel this is insufficient as compared to what you'll see in an Asko manual, which goes into far more detail and actually recommends specific detergent brands. Miele does make its own brand of detergent, but it's not really pushed on the consumer.

Regarding water softeners in dishwashers being gimmicky, that's absolutely not the case. Here in Arizona where we have extremely hard water, my Miele La Perla performs flawlessly. It softens the incoming water to 0 hardness and then mixes it with an appropriate amount of unsoftened water to achieve the optimal hardness level inside the dishwasher. Without this softener I would have to use dramatically higher amounts of detergent and probably still deal with some hardness issues - lime scale, film on dishes, cleaning performance, etc. This dishwasher is intelligent and a perfect example of Miele's research being put to good use in an almost flawless product.

    Bookmark   October 16, 2010 at 5:03PM
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Well, I didn't say it was gimmicky, I said it was NO MORE gimmicky than Whirlpool advising a monthly cleaning cycle for their FL washing machines.

And I was comparing Whirlpool's advice with Miele's requirement for softeners and certain detergents in their dishwashers. Am I remembering incorrectly? Maybe that was the Bosch.

Once again, I'm not saying either is gimmicky. Both are recommended for a reason.

    Bookmark   October 20, 2010 at 12:21AM
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I always keep the door of my FL open a bit when it's not in use. No mold issues ever.

    Bookmark   October 21, 2010 at 6:08PM
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Has anyone kept track of the geographics of mold complaints? Wondering if those that live in the SW or at altitude have fewer problems compared with SE and other more humid climates. Suspect they must. Never seen a breakdown....if one exists.

1 Like    Bookmark   October 21, 2010 at 7:58PM
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Live in humid Seattle, Miele, and Bosch before this, no mold ever. Door always left open. Costco detergent, occasionally Persil.

    Bookmark   October 21, 2010 at 10:48PM
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Thanks. Lived in Leschi/Madrona area for 13 years. Love your city.

    Bookmark   October 21, 2010 at 11:04PM
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I live in Coastal South Carolina. The only place more humid than here is the jungle. I have a Bosch washer and dryer, and no problems with mold.

    Bookmark   October 22, 2010 at 6:51AM
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The OLD front and top loader washing machines NEVER had the mold smell problem (I'm talking about over 10 yrs ago). I'm pulling my hair out with my smelly washer. I paid top dollar for it and it stinks up my whole house. It is DISGUSTING that the manufacturers cannot make a machine that does not smell like this.

1 Like    Bookmark   October 24, 2010 at 7:11AM
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Jlosc, what kind of washer do you have and what products do you use to wash in?

    Bookmark   October 24, 2010 at 9:08AM
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Actually the old front and top loaders from more than 10 years ago did have this issue. The internet has now provided a forum for a very small amount amount of people to make a very big deal of something that is limited to less than 1% of the users.
But as repeated in almost every blog and forum, if the user washes with hot water washes on a regular basis, uses the proper amount of detergent and fabric softener, the issue doesn't exist.

    Bookmark   October 24, 2010 at 11:43AM
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A Ferrari is only as good as the driver behind the wheel. If you're going to drive like grandma, it's not really the vehicle's fault is it? Is it really the manufacturers that make machines which smell, or should the blame fall more on the side of the consumer who doesn't want to learn how to properly use their new, efficient machines? Ten years ago your top loader filled with 20 gallons of water each time, so the scoop of detergent you were putting into it was properly dissolved in all of that water. Today that same load of laundry is washed in 5 gallons of water, yet people still think that they need to put in a full scoop like they did 10 years ago and are shocked that they can't rinse all the sudsy crap out of their clothes and machines.

I do blame washer manufacturers for catering to the dumbest lowest common denominator consumer who can't educate him or herself out of a paper bag. I give Asko kudos for devoting a section of their user manuals to water hardness and proper detergent dosing methods. Even Miele has crappy instructions, simply saying "follow the detergent manufacturer's recommendations." That's total and complete bull coming from a company that does so much research. I take Asko's instructions to heart and scale their recommended dosage to the capacity of my current machine, which comes to 2-3 TBSP per large load, half that for smaller loads. Results have been excellent.

    Bookmark   October 24, 2010 at 4:52PM
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jlosc, in re-reading my message I realize it may sound like a response to your post, but I was not referring to you specifically in any way. I'm just speaking to the trend I've seen over the last few years for owners of new FL machines to want a simple, set-it-and-go mentality. The margin of error shrinks proportionally with the amount of wash water used. This requires a greater degree of knowledge on the part of the consumer in order to operate the machine properly, dose effectively and diagnose issues when they arise.

    Bookmark   October 24, 2010 at 5:16PM
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The most useful analogy I've encountered is the one that says clothes washers have become like dishwashers. We put the load in, choose the cycle and the machine does everything else. Like dishwashers, we have to use non-sudsing detergent and we have to decide on the amount to use based on load, soil, and water quality before we start the machine. If we use too much, too little, or the wrong kind there are consequences.

Most of us are long-accustomed to thinking this way from our dishwasher experience. Seems to me the transition in thinking to a clothes-washer that works almost the same way should be easy enough. Alas.

Of course I also notice from the appliance forum that lots of folks can't figure their dishwashers out either. Double-alas.

    Bookmark   October 24, 2010 at 5:31PM
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Another aspect is people who don't sort according to fabric type and don't use the appropriate cycles ... instead tossing everything in on "normal" because "that's what I did with my old machine and everything came out fine." Sorting may often be done by simple color -- darks and lights -- possibly putting dark denim jeans with navy polyester/knit slacks, which two kind of items have completely different washing needs. This situation is often exacerbated by the super-large capacity of the latest frontloaders ... the machines are touted as taking a huge load, which prompts the consumer cut back on sorting, putting everything together, so as to create those very large loads.

Folks need to understand that the new-fangled machine with all those cycles and options isn't your old washer and usage habits need to change accordingly.

    Bookmark   October 24, 2010 at 8:09PM
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@dadoes brings up a good point. I have considered getting the smaller European size machines but wonder how I'll clean my king size items.

Can you do really small loads in a Miele W48XX?

I would think multiple smaller loads would be better for laundry needs (except when one wants to wash a large item).

    Bookmark   October 24, 2010 at 8:45PM
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It might be a good idea to see if the water is completely draining, a slightly slow drain or clogged filter might be leaving a small amount of water in the bottom of the machine, if your drain is high or drain hose is slightly bent, it could cause some of these problems.

    Bookmark   October 25, 2010 at 8:37AM
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With respect....there are no machines extant to my knowledge that do not leave a small amount of water in the bottom of the machine after every cycle. Dishwashers, too. Drain hoses are REQUIRED to be high, for heaven's sake.

    Bookmark   October 25, 2010 at 7:28PM
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Always, always, always leave your door open just a bit. This will allow air to circulate inside your machine and then there should be no mold problem.

    Bookmark   October 25, 2010 at 11:40PM
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Some machines have ventilation built into the doors to the outside.

    Bookmark   October 26, 2010 at 7:33AM
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"Can you do really small loads in a Miele W48XX? I would think multiple smaller loads would be better for laundry needs (except when one wants to wash a large item)."

You can do small loads in ANY of the new machines. They don't care. They adjust water volume, etc., to accommodate. All you have to do is put the right amount of detergent in.

No matter how large your machine's capacity, there will always be something you have to wash that's too large to fit. Laundromats and commercial laundries are still with us.

    Bookmark   October 26, 2010 at 11:44AM
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I think some of you are over-thinking this. I have my second Frigidaire front loader, and have NEVER had any mold on either machine. I just leave the door wide open when it's not in use.

    Bookmark   November 8, 2010 at 12:47PM
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I purchased a Maytag Neptune front loader washer and dryer May 1999. This is the second model Maytag came out with. To date, I have had no problems whatsoever with either machine, no mold or mildew. After each wash, I turn off the water, wipe out the boot, and leave the door open until ready to do the next wash. Detergent used is either Wisk liquid or Sears powdered with Oxyclean. I do hot, warm and cold washes. I use downey for all loads. Common sense: You HAVE to leave the door open after finished washing to allow air to dry out the machine. Mold and mildew thrive and grow in dark, damp environments.

    Bookmark   November 10, 2010 at 9:39AM
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mrjms,,,,,good post there and one of your key statements is that you wash in all temperatures which helps prevent the build up in a washer. Sad part is, this build up takes place in conventional washers too, between the drums, it just doesnt always smell bad, usually it smells like detergent buildup when you open the lid. The lid is not air tight so it prevents mold growth. I tore apart my friends Toploader and he was shocked to what we cleaned out of the outer drum. HE washes mainly in cold water. It was a brown thick build up all over the top half of the drum, took lots of hot water and a strong spray cleaner to get rid of it.

    Bookmark   November 10, 2010 at 10:20AM
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