LG washer pounding noise

occcSeptember 24, 2009

Hi,

We just bought an LG front loader and were having huge problems with water hammer as it filled - the whole house seemed to shake (we have high water pressure - separate issue) I just want to post here as I spent a long time searching and I found a simple way of fixing it just before I returned the machine. Buy a water hammer arrestor - basically it is a shock absorber for water pressure.

I bought two (from amazon just as my local hardware store did not have them; for about 10-15$ each)and the problem was gone.

http://www.amazon.com/Water-Surge-Shock-Absorber-660-H/dp/B000H5MQNM/ref=pd_cp_hi_0

but there may be better/cheaper ones out there - I just did not have the inclination to spend more time on it.

Since I often search here first and I was unable to find a posting, I wanted to mention this to anyone else with this issue as it is really easy to fix, but really frustrating while it is happening.

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regus_patoff

Common problem on newer washers ...

Even if you have the older "Water Hammer Arresters" (a built-in vertical stub of pipe) near the washer water supply pipes.

Sometimes the air inside gets "lost" (absorbed into the water).

You'll need to turn off the house main water supply.
Then open an upstairs H&C water faucets, and then the hoses by the washer, to drain the water out of the pipes (and thereby, the arresters).

Then close everything back up, and turn on the house main water supply.

You'll need to purge the air out of most of the household faucets by letting them run for a few minutes.

The older style Water Hammer Arrestors don't work very well (no rubber bladder).

May need to be purged every few months..

New style
Lowe's $ 10
you'll need one for each Water Hose ...
click on picture
[

">](http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=24696-1816-10660)

    Bookmark   September 24, 2009 at 11:20PM
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tken

We're having this problem, and our contractors haven't been able to fix it. Are there any others out there who have experienced this and found solutions?

So far we've tried a water hammer arrester, changing out the hose from the wall to machine for shorter (4-foot) hoses, and now we're trying a garden hose from the flush outlet on the hot water heater directly to the washer. (Following the guidance at http://lgknowledgebase.com/kb/index.php?View=entry&EntryID=4415.)

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Bookmark   November 3, 2009 at 4:04PM
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regus_patoff

> So far we've tried a water hammer arrester

One on each Hot & Cold water supply ?

The closer to the Washing machine, the better.

The ones pictured above connect directly to the Water Input Vales of the Washer.

Works great on my LG WM2688

    Bookmark   November 4, 2009 at 12:32AM
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wunder22

My new LG produces so much water hammer it has shaken the pipes off their brackets. Basically I have to tear down a bunch of drywall and reattach the water lines. Good luck trying to get LG or the retailer to repair your plumbing. Water hammer is a very serious problem. I also tried arresters. They didn't do anything. I have an expansion tank on my cold waterline too. The fact is the valves in the washer close to fast. That is what causes water hammer! But LG won't fix or replace. Anyone know how to file a class action lawsuit?

    Bookmark   April 19, 2010 at 5:46PM
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asolo

"Sorry.... The person you were looking for doesn't exist."

"I also tried arresters. They didn't do anything. I have an expansion tank on my cold waterline too."

If you do, in fact exist, I'm thinking something's going on other than the valves closing "to fast". Hard to tell from cyber-distance.

    Bookmark   April 19, 2010 at 7:44PM
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wunder22

Well asolo, what do you think is going on then. The retailer has had several complaints about this washer, it's not just me. Also I do hold a Minnesota plumbing code card. I am not saying I know everything, but water hammer is caused by closing valves to fast. I was testing a 36 in. water main and closed the 3/4 in. valve that I was pumping thru to fast, and I blew the 36 in pipe apart. Also I don't know why it says I don't exist.

    Bookmark   April 19, 2010 at 10:41PM
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asolo

Sounds like you're better educated about such things than I.

Used to sell industrial pumps and valves so have some background. Actuation speeds were always a consideration among the customers we serviced -- because of the risk of damaging hammer in many applications. However, it seems to me you would have as good a perspective on this household situation as anyone.

The thing I mostly don't get is how the arrestors and/or expansion tank, assuming properly installed and maintained, could fail to eliminate the condition instantly and permanently. Household line size and pressure are typically at levels that such simple measures pretty much work all the time for such hammer as can occur. Also, I've never known residential hammer to be of a magnitude that tore pipes loose, so this must really be something special. Do you know your household water pressure?

Would be interested to witness what you've described. Find it hard to accept the idea that LG's solenoid valves would be effectively "faster" than anyone elses. Obviously don't know.....but would like to.

    Bookmark   April 19, 2010 at 11:21PM
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czechchick2

I think we experienced "water hammer" before. It souded like you described. Every time we turned any faucet on and off it would shake at least 1/2 of the house, making vibration noises etc. Even during night when nothing was in use. It got so bad that every time our neighbor on left side next to us used water, our house was affected too! It took me a month to figure it out. I thought I have to call a plumber but what I found was just too simple. One of our bathroom's toilet had little leak. Inside of the toilet the rubber ring dripped just enough water to cause this noise. One night I went in the bathroom to file my nail and I heard the little drop so I listened. We replaced the rubber "O ring" under the stopper and it stopped.
I have no idea if I was just lucky enough but since that we had no problems. After I found out on line that leak like this has something to do w/pressure in water pipes.
I'm glad I didn't have to call plumber, he would take us to the cleaners with all sorts of BS.
Check for toilet for drips and leaks, you never know, it migh be the same thing.
P.S. Yes our noise started shortly after we gotour LG. Perhaps the ON/OFF action caused pressure in the pipe that affect the toilet o ring. I don't know but we are fine since.

    Bookmark   April 19, 2010 at 11:58PM
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regus_patoff

We had the same problem when we first got our LG Washer.

I installed one of these on each of the Water Valve inputs AT THE Washer.
click on picture[

](http://www.lowes.com/pd_24696-1816-660-H_0?newSearch=true&catalogId=10051&productId=3172327&Ntt=24696)

    Bookmark   April 20, 2010 at 2:33AM
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bobg2

I purchased a Sears Kenmore Elite washer (model no. 41582410) in Nov 2014. The washer, manufactured by LG, is 4.5 cf capacity and has Accela-Wash, Steam, Kenmore Connect, and Vibration Guard. Within a week of using, I called for repair due to extreme water hammer when the cold supply side solenoid valve closed. This model senses load when first turned on and during the sensing cycle it repeatedly cycles cold water on and off. The problem is that every time the valve closes, there is severe water hammer that stresses the pipes and valves from one end of the house to the other. I suspected the valve closed so rapidly that it caused water hammer when the column of water moving through the supply hose toward the washer was instantaneously stopped by the valve shutting. I did not have water hammer with the previous washer or another similar Kenmore washer I purchased a couple years ago that was also manufactured by LG.

Water hammer can lead to serious damage to water systems/plumbing. When designing water handling systems, valves are designed to close at a speed that keeps shock loads within design tolerance of the piping. As a side note, I did develop leaks in a shower valve at the other end of the house and the packing on the cold water shutoff valve at the washer. As a test I crossed the hot and cold supply lines to see if the hot water supply side would hammer when connected to the cold water solenoid valve. It did hammer. This convinced me my plumbing was ok since it had never hammered and it did not hammer when the washing machine hot water valve closed. The test isolated the water hammer to the cold water solenoid valve.

Within a week I called for replacement of the cold water solenoid valve. The people I talked to on the phone insisted it was the house plumbing and I should purchase water hammer attenuators and install them on the back of the washer or purchase a larger diameter supply hose and maybe that would help.

I eventually called and insisted repair person come and fix the machine. The A&E (owned by Sears holding company) repair man came and told me he could change the valve but it would not fix the problem. He insisted it was a house plumbing problem. I suggested one way to find out would be to change the valve and see if that fixed the problem. He talked me out of it. I lived with the problem for a couple months until in Late December when the washer broke.

The washer blew the 20 amp circuit breaker and I could smell burning electronics. It is ironic that the previously mentioned shower valve leaking caused the bath rug (18” x 18”) to get soaked when I left the shower doors open. The dripping water splashed onto the bathroom floor and soaked the rug. I put the rug in the washer with intent to wash and dry it. The washer broke during the sensing cycle. I called repair.

Repair came about a week later. They could not get the door open to retrieve my laundry because on this model there is no release lever or pin to pull to release the solenoid controlled latch. They made quite a few phone calls and tested quite a few circuits in the washer. Eventually they decided they could not or did not want to repair the unit. I am so glad because on January 28, 2015, 3 weeks later, Sears delivered a new washer of the same model and it does not water hammer. Also, the beefier delivery person was able to yank the door open and retrieve my laundry. They installed the washer with new hoses that are shorter and larger diameter.

To test whether the hose made the difference, I reinstalled the original longer smaller diameter hoses and there still is no water hammer. I cannot tell any difference in the shock or noise level between the hoses.

Even though the repair men all told me that the water hammer would not damage the house plumbing and that if I wanted to get rid of the hammering, I should fix the house plumbing, I understand enough about water system design and have worked with enough plumbers over the years when I was building houses that I know water hammer is a serious condition that should not be happening. I suggest any one who gets water hammer with a new LG washer send the washer back and get another one while you can. Clearly, LG, the maker of the washer has or had a poor design or manufacturing quality control of the solenoid valve. In addition, the repair people who came to repair my washer did not understand enough about the seriousness of water hammer to think it needed fixing or else they chose not to take the time to make the repair. Interestingly there are 3 valves on the cold water supply side and one on the hot water side.

I am posting this to possibly help someone with same problem and because I think LG should get some blow back so they fix this problem. I don't think homeowner should spend more money to fix a problem not properly considered or addressed by LG in the design or manufacture of this appliance.

    Bookmark   January 31, 2015 at 5:22PM
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