GU24 4in recessed lights / housings

newtoremodelFebruary 6, 2012

I made the mistake of mentioning to DW that we may be able to get 4 inch recessed lights in the kitchen instead of the 6 in CR6s when the Home Depot Eco4s came out. However, the GU24 versions are not available yet and Home Depot has no idea when they might actually start selling them. Apparently, they do exist according the CREE and the Energy Star website.

So, I was thinking about installing 4 in recessed lighting in our new construction with Title 24 compliant fluorescent lighting and then changing them to the Eco4 GU24 LEDs after they're available. I realize that that there will be some excessive expenses due to the trims and bulbs.

Is there a recommended housing that I need to get? I think the best may be the Cree H4, but the specs say it's only for the LR4. There are some housings spec'd for CFLs, should I avoid those since I'm planning LEDs in the future? I also plan to install dimmers right now, will that make a difference?

Thanks for the advice.

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David

The housings for recessed CFLs are costly, especially for dimmable fixtures. On top of the added initial expense,

They will come with an integrated ballast which will have to be disconnected when you switch to LED.

The integrated ballast will be difficult to replace when it fails. Typically, access to the upper side of the recessed can would be required.

Contact Cree about the H4 housing and CR4.

    Bookmark   February 6, 2012 at 4:38PM
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newtoremodel

Thanks Davidtay. Your advice may have saved a costly mistake.

How about the Nora NHIC-4G24AT housing instead? It should work with GU24 CFLs as well as retrofit LEDs in the future? And I won't have to worry about ballasts, etc.

Thanks.

    Bookmark   February 6, 2012 at 11:12PM
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David

It looks workable. LED recessed lamps invariably use a pigtail which either ends in a GU24/ E26 or a custom fitting (HALO).

Check the depth and width of the recess. If it is comparable with a HALO H99ICAT, it will work with the CR4.

    Bookmark   February 7, 2012 at 12:38AM
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David

I looked at the dimensions. The CR4 will fit.

I also checked the H99ICAT spec sheet which states
Certified under ASTM-E283 and listed UL/cUL 1598. May be used to meet insulated ceiling and restricted air-flow requirements such as:
Washington State Energy
Code
International Energy
Conservation Code (IECC) New York State Energy
Conservation Construction
Code (NY-ECCC)
State of California Title 24
"Recessed Luminaires in Insulated Ceilings."

    Bookmark   February 7, 2012 at 12:55AM
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newtoremodel

Great! Thanks for going thru the trouble and double checking everything. The one concern I had was that if the CR4 GU24 version is similar to the CR6 GU24 version, the GU24 base of the LED may not be able to reach the 'socket' at the top of the housing if it can't be dropped a bit. However, I'm guessing that I would be able to use the GU24 whip adapter as an 'extension' of the GU24 socket. Hope that makes sense. I'll probably get one just to test everything out first.

Thanks again for all your help (and for your many postings regarding cove lights, UCLs, etc).

Here is a link that might be useful: Installation Instructions for CR6

    Bookmark   February 7, 2012 at 1:11AM
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David

You're correct. There will be enough slack.

    Bookmark   February 7, 2012 at 10:48AM
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lee676

The Eco4-575L, unlike the CR6, does have a separate pigtail leading to an Edison or GU24 plug. Even if the GU24 version isn't available yet, if you can find another source for the pigtails or GU24 connectors I'd think you'd be in the clear if you install them on your 4" lights.

    Bookmark   February 8, 2012 at 5:39PM
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newtoremodel

"The Eco4-575L, unlike the CR6, does have a separate pigtail leading to an Edison or GU24 plug. Even if the GU24 version isn't available yet, if you can find another source for the pigtails or GU24 connectors I'd think you'd be in the clear if you install them on your 4" lights."

Thanks lee676, I considered doing that with the Cree whip adapters, but I haven't been successful in sourcing just the adapters. Cree doesn't sell directly to the public and the distributors they referred me to also can't get them.

Would something like http://www.noralighting.com/Product.aspx?&pid=9179 work? I would have to splice the wires directly together instead of using the quick connect. Can someone suggest the best way of doing this so that it's safe and lasts the life of the LEDs? I'll have to make sure my contractor's electrician doesn't take any shortcuts.

Thanks.

Here is a link that might be useful: Nora GU24 Socket adapter

    Bookmark   February 9, 2012 at 1:48PM
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David

Yes those will work. The orange end is the PowerPlug Luminare disconnect from Ideal.
http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=powerplug_2wire_standard&div=0amp;l1=luminaire_disconnects.

As for the Cree Whip adapter
http://www.bulbtronics.com/(S(0nfqonbfbf52o0bgrpxqj445)A(qyd3W3sTzQEkAAAAYzhkZGNiMjUtZWJhYy00NjY3LTlmYTMtYTNhYTYxMmM1YzNk46kf1GLX0kKCq456SYVRIGpPhhw1))/Search-The-Warehouse/ProductDetail.aspx?sid=0081281&pid=LDGU24WHIP+++++&Source=SearchResults

    Bookmark   February 9, 2012 at 3:38PM
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newtoremodel

Hypothetically speaking, would I be able to use a GU24 adapter if they were available? I know there's an issue with retailers selling them, but would they work better than or as well as hardwiring the whips?

Thanks.

Here is a link that might be useful: Adapter

    Bookmark   February 13, 2012 at 5:27PM
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David

Technically it is possible. However, the use of those adapters will probably be deemed a violation of title 24.

The GU24 versions should be available soon. Otherwise, CREE is leaving money on the table for their competitors.

    Bookmark   February 13, 2012 at 7:27PM
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newtoremodel

Still working on this. Are there any GU24 4" IC rated housings for new construction? I can only find the Nora one listed above, but it's doesn't have the Title 24 approval yet.

If I went with the HALO H99ICAT, how would I switch out the medium base to the GU24 base?

Or perhaps the Cooper EI400ATSB would be a better choice since the socket seems to be more easily switched?

Thanks again for the advice.

Here is a link that might be useful: EI400ATSB

    Bookmark   March 7, 2012 at 1:24AM
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David

It looks like the EI400ATSB is the best route. It's also cheaper than the H99ICAT.

    Bookmark   March 7, 2012 at 10:37AM
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jhwu

Hi newtoremodel - use this - http://www.maxlite.com/PDFs/FocusSheets/GU24Socket.pdf

I used the gu24 pigtails to do the following a few years ago

1) install line voltage gu10 halogen 4" cans in my kitchen
2) splice off the gu10 ends and wirenut on the gu24 sockets
3) put in gu24 cfl bulbs in the cans with some generic elco trims
4) pass title24 inspection - i showed the inspector the gu24 sockets as well as the nora spec sheet (it helped that there was lots of paint overspray on the cans)
5) unwirenut off the gu24 ends and rewirenut on the gu10 sockets with gu10 halogens.

I think you could adapt this approach to your needs. :-)

    Bookmark   March 8, 2012 at 10:38PM
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