Fisher Paykel Washer repair or replace?

puzzlefanSeptember 5, 2010

Washer GW 11 was purchased in 2003 Mostly trouble free until today. It has no power after starting a wash (quit mid way). My husband says there is a hot/burning smell. Motor? If it is the motor, does it make more sense to just replace it? If you have had a motor replaced, what was the cost and how long did it last after replacement?

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The main drive motor on these machines is quite robust and unlikely to be the problem. The separate pump, however, IS probably the problem. A leaking pump that's not fixed ASAP will often/usually short-out and zap the controller board. The pump is not overly expensive (~$70), but the controller board adds ~$125+ to the repair. Someone posting in another thread here had success replacing a blown fuse on his controller board, but that requires soldering skill to remove and replace the fuse and "luck" that nothing else is wrong with the board.

It's also possible that one of the water valves or the water mixing chamber inside the console leaked which shorted the controller. You'd have to investigate to determine what exactly is the problem. Parts are available at or (Sears is usually lower prices, but not always on all items).

    Bookmark   September 5, 2010 at 12:48PM
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Where is the controller board located? Is that on top or down where the pump that I periodically check for cleaning? What would I have friend look for to indicate a leaking pump?

    Bookmark   September 5, 2010 at 1:01PM
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The motor/controller board is in the console on top. Two electronic boards up there The one set down inside that has a bunch of wires attached is the motor board. The display board is mounted to the upper button panel, connected to the motor board by a white wire harness.

You check periodically if the pump needs cleaning? First time I've heard that. If so, then you might should have noticed if the pump has been leaking, unless the leaking started since the last time you checked. Determination of leaking is by examining it for evidence of water/corrosion damage. Also check the resistance reading on it with a volt/ohm meter. It should read ~7 ohms when it's at normal room temperature. However, it can read good when cool but go to high resistance after it gets warmed-up from running if the motor windings are corroded from leaking.

    Bookmark   September 5, 2010 at 3:56PM
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I may be misidentying parts. Looking at the FP diagram for parts, it the pump drain with the impeller, I think. Lint gets built up on it, so we periodically check to see if it is okay. Better than having a washer full of water as I had at one time. Is the console cover something that a homeowner can remove easily and check? I'd like to do as much basic determinations as possible as the last time I had a Sears, now A&E repairperson out for a different appliance, he seemed rather lost. If he hasn't worked on a FP, it may be a problem. I can look for signs of corrosion underneath but have no idea of how to take off the console cover.

    Bookmark   September 6, 2010 at 10:29AM
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The control console is opened via two screws at the back corners, one at each side. Remove screws, the panel lifts open from the back to front, up and off. Couldn't be easier. Be careful of the display wire harness when opening it. But you're not looking for corrosion inside the console, you look for it on the pump under the machine.

    Bookmark   September 6, 2010 at 1:36PM
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Thanks for being so patient. I downloaded the parts list from FP but no where do I find anything labeled "pump". There is the impeller that I called the pump which we are familiar with having removed debris from that. Do you know what FP would label it as?

    Bookmark   September 7, 2010 at 12:43PM
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The pump is labeled as "Pump Drain 110V 60Hz" on the parts diagram. Did you get the wrong parts list? Maybe the pump isn't what you've been removing for cleaning the lint accumulation?

Pump = #18, Part Number 420325P

Note that mounting bracket #21 is NOT removed to take the pump off. To remove the pump, hold the plastic latch #19 released and rotate the pump body counterclockwise (looking up from beneath the machine) to detach it from the mounting bracket.

    Bookmark   September 7, 2010 at 1:31PM
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While waiting for my "help" to show up, I've been reading other posts about F P and learned some new things. One thing just for the sake of curiosity, where is the main motor. I didn't see one in any of the drawings. Thanks for the education. Still may buy a Roper as a stop gap washer but if the FP is fixable, that would be nice.

    Bookmark   September 12, 2010 at 6:52PM
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The SmartDrive motor is the large disc at the center under the tub. Referencing the parts list you mentioned previously, the motor parts are on page 13 & 14.

    Bookmark   September 12, 2010 at 7:13PM
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Thanks for all the information. I am still on the fence about fix or repair although I am sure the pump is bad and then probably the control board. I was able buy a Kenmore washer, older model working perfectly, from the REPO man. Before this, I didn't realize that banks had appliances removed and sold. So far 50.00 at least I have a working washer with no electronic parts to give me a hassle. I am looking at parts on EBAY though just in case I decide to go ahead and fix the FP.

    Bookmark   September 20, 2010 at 6:31PM
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