Depth of 'Closet' for washer/dryer

mileadaySeptember 18, 2009

I'm cross posting and trying to get a quick answer to how much interior "closet" space I need for my "future" washer and dryer. Presently, 36" is more than enough to allow for the machines, hoses and venting. But,if in the future I purchase front loaders I don't know if 3' from wall to door will be enough. If anyone has their machines enclosed I'd love to know how much interior depth spacing you allowed. If you just have them against a wall, I'd appreciate a measurement from wall to front which takes into account the extra space needed behind the machines. Thanks for your time.

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We have compact (24" wide) machines mounted in a closet that's about 24" deep, plus several inches of door frame to cheat with. So I can't answer your question directly. However, if you look at specs and installation instructions for some machines like you might get, they tell you most everything. If you vent a dryer out the back, you need to add about 6", unless you use a periscope vent. Some vent out the sides, so you might only need 1" or less. Usually the specs and installation instructions are available on the web.

    Bookmark   September 18, 2009 at 9:03AM
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I had posted the same question a few weeks ago.... go here for the thread...which you may find helpful..... I have about 37 inches of depth and am planning on the 9400 Duet Washer/Gas dryer. I'd like to vent it out the back... which I think I'll have the room for...but can also vent the dryer out the right side, which I should also have the room.

Here is a link that might be useful: depth for washer dryer

    Bookmark   September 18, 2009 at 9:24AM
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We have the Whirlpool Duet 9400 set and they fit in our closet area which measures 35 1/2 inches from the back wall to the back of the folding doors. There is about a one inch space between the front of the washer/dryers and the closet doors when they are closed. Tight fit, but I was pleasantly surprised to see they make it in there. I really didn't want to have to go with a top-loader. The Electrolux models appear to require even less space, depending upon install method they could potentially be placed flush against the back wall of the closet.

    Bookmark   September 20, 2009 at 11:05AM
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Westrid Dad.... on your 9400 dryer... are you venting out the back of the dryer or out from the you have a gas or electric dryer?


    Bookmark   September 20, 2009 at 7:01PM
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cedar32, we are venting out the back and we have the electric dryer. We've had the pair for almost a month, so it is still early, but so far we do really like the performance of both the washer and the dryer.

We vent out the back and then up through the roof, so it's about an 18-20 foot run. With our old-style top-load w/d it was getting to the point where it was taking 2-3 hours to dry a full loud of towels or jeans. I was worried that the new set would still take awhile to dry, but because the clothes are coming out of the washer so much drier the dry cycle is less than the wash cycle. My wife is very happy, so I'm very happy.

    Bookmark   September 21, 2009 at 12:10AM
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Ron Natalie

Also note that if you're planning on stacking, many of the units require MORE depth.

    Bookmark   September 21, 2009 at 7:47AM
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uutting washer and dryer in a closet, have a front loader washer, wondering what width of the closet works when by-fold doors are open, so the washer door can open 120degrees?

    Bookmark   April 21, 2011 at 4:37PM
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Measure the door / unit when open 120 degrees - that's your answer. Probably 24" on the side it swings out to. If you have a 5' closet (60") then put the machine in the corner and you'll have 24" free on one side.

    Bookmark   April 22, 2011 at 12:29AM
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uutting washer and dryer in a closet, have a front loader washer, wondering what width of the closet works when by-fold doors are open, so the washer door can open 120degrees?

    Bookmark   April 22, 2011 at 5:01AM
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I built a laundry closet / cubby for our stacked, full size Samsung front loading washer/dryer. The machines now face into our kitchen, saving many steps.

Available space was tight - oh, but our house is small. We managed with 32 inches wide, 36 to 39 inches deep, and 79 to 82 inches high.

The door opening is 31" wide, 79 inches high. The closet itself is 82 inches high. From the back wall to the door is 36 inches; the doorway adds another 3 inches. We'll use a bi-fold door or perhaps a curtain.

The Samsung appliances are 27 inches wide, and 76 inches tall when stacked. (Possibly 78 inches tall, if the screw-feet are fully extended)

Our laundry cubby has 7+ inches of room behind the appliances - enough for the hoses, cords, & dryer vent. To prevent the washer from walking too far back, we inserted 7 inch long chocks of 4x4. A couple pieces of 2x4 keep the machines from bashing against the walls.

Underneath the floor, we made this extremely robust, with concrete footers and 4x6 supports. It's structurally separate from the house, so the washing machine's vibrations don't reach us. We don't notice the machine's vibrations, and I suspect that I overdid the floor support system.

Main problem is moving the appliances for repairs - it's easy to gouge wood floors. So we lift the appliances (total weight is 350 pounds). We lever them up a few inches, using 1x2's and 2x4's. Then we insert appliance casters and/or a throw rug underneath. Carefully pull the stacked appliances out. Once the stack is about 15 inches out of the closet, we disconnect the hoses and wires. Then we pull the stack out completely.

To make it a bit easier, we've installed several strong eye-hooks into the ceiling framing, to allow nylon straps to help with the lifting (using a come-a-long hand winch). Still, it's a challenge to service the washer and dryer.

If you're thinking of this, I'd suggest:
- add a service door to the back, to allow access for repair and/or lifting.
- 32 inches is a minimum width. 36 would be much better
- Consider putting in a 220V wiring in the wall; you can later hook this to your breaker box if you get an electric dryer.
- Electric codes require that you be able to pull the plugs to the appliances, or shut off electricity to them. With the electric outlets against the back wall, we can't reach the plugs. So we have an on/off switch at the front of the closet - this disables the outlets.

And, since hoses can break and washing machines may drip both water and oil, I suggest:
- install a water alarm that beeps if water collects on the floor
- finish the floor to deal with leaks
- slope the floor to a drain
- install a washing machine pan underneath (but this makes it hard to adjust the leveling screws)
- put flexible plastic sheeting cut from a tarp) beneath the washer. Fold & shape it to catch water (fold down the front of the catchment when you move the appliances)

Here is a link that might be useful: Closet for stacked laundry machines

This post was edited by CliffStoll on Sat, Nov 2, 13 at 21:05

1 Like    Bookmark   October 29, 2013 at 7:05PM
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