how to move Laundry - 2nd Floor?

newbee_hmAugust 25, 2010


I am new to this forum, and seek some advise regarding our new/old house. We recently moved into this old 1985 colonian 3 level home. Currently, the Laundry room (washer and dryper) are on the main level, and we would like to move it to the 2nd floor. There is a bathroom (toilet & shower) next to the walk in closet that we want to convert into the laundry room.

So, far my understanding is that we will need:

1) 220v power line, directly running from the box to the dryer

2) hot and cold water suppy - we can get that from the bathroom next door.

3) drainage - Can we use the exising bathroom's drainage?

4) washer tray and its drainage - do we need a separate drainage pipe to run from the tray? and where should we end this pipe at? There is a sump pump all the way down in the basement?

5) dryer vent - from what I have read so far, the vent needs to go up into the attic. But would'nt that make the attic go really hot during the summer? is there any alternative?

6) anything else we may have missed?

Any and all the help is much appreciated !!!!



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The dryer vent needs to vent to the outside - not the attic. You don't want to vent all that moisture into the attic. You can get mold, rot and lots of bugs. I don't know if you are using an existing W/D or buying a new one but be sure it is not a vibration problem. Some houses - old and new - just can't handle a W/D on the second floor. This is commonly a problem with HE front loaders but other machines have also been a problem.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2010 at 3:28PM
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We added a 3'x5' laundry closet to an upstairs bath last year, and we kept the downstairs laudry area as well. I really like having two washers and dryers.

We weren't sure if or just how things were going to work plumbing-wise until some of the floor and a wall were torn out to reveal how the existing plumbing was configured. Of course this also meant that we couldn't get a firm price from the plumber until he knew what had to be done. I suspect that your situation may be the same.

Good luck! It was a hassle and it wasn't cheap, but every time I use it, I'm glad we did it.

    Bookmark   August 27, 2010 at 11:01AM
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You need to vent the dryer to outside. The problem is not heat, it is moisture.

You need a plumber to come and give you an estimate, the drain in the bathroom might be able to be used, but you have to have a certain size for the washer and it has to be vented. If the bathroom sink is on the same wall that the washer will go, it is likely that it can be used.

The drain for the pan is an emergency drain and code in your area may not require that it be connected to the drain. It has the purpose of draining in the rare occasion that your washer leaks or overflows. This prevents damage to the structure. Again, you need the advice of someone who is knowledgeable about the local codes.

If you are rebuilding the room, pay attention to the floor and how supported it is. A springy floor is going to be problems for a washer because they all depend on placement on the floor for part of the damping of the machine. Front Loading machines use a shock absorber type of damping and the could be problematic with old floors and joists. Top loading washers normally use some form of floating damping system that may have quite a bit of vibration. Anything that can be done to reduce vibration and spongy floors during the build will serve you well.

    Bookmark   August 31, 2010 at 6:04PM
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One thing to consider is reinforcing the floor. The front loaders don't like floors that shake when they rotate. I reinforced my floor with 3/4 inch plywood before adding tile. That works fine for my Samsung,, but it has built in vibration control.

    Bookmark   September 1, 2010 at 11:23AM
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A great deal of what you wish to accomplish is precedent upon building codes. I would visit your local Building Department and learn what you need to have in the way of building permits.

    Bookmark   September 2, 2010 at 1:01PM
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