Small leak/drip with Fisher & Paykel GWL11 Washer (with pictures)

mrmichaeljmooreMay 6, 2008

Got a small drip/leak with my GWL11 washer.....

The washer is about 3.5 years old.

My wife went downstairs to do some laundry and discovered the wash tub had about 6-7 inches of standing water in it.

Water was dripping from the tubes where the water enters the tub.

I called the a salesman on the phone (the service dept had already closed). He said it could be some sediment clogging the little strainers in the inlets on the back of the washer.

So I took those off, rinsed them real good and scrubbed them with a small toothbrush. There didn't seem to be much sediment....just a few specks of stuff.

I reattached everything and I still got a drip.

One other thing.....I am pretty sure it is just the cold water line that is dripping/leaking.

I posted some pics below.

Any ideas????



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The pics you posted are of the fill flume, which is not the source of the drip. The water valves are "upstream" from the flume, inside the control panel. Debris in the hose screens won't cause dripping/leaking. Debris in the valves themselves can, preventing them from sealing completely when the water shuts off. I don't think the valves are intended to be disassembled for cleaning, although you can try if you want. You may need to replace the cold valve if you can't get it to stop dripping. Shut off both faucets, dry the accumulated drippage, then turn on each faucet separately in turn to determine for sure which valve is seeping.

Sears PartsDirect carries F&P parts. Here's a link to your cold valve. The hot and cold valves are different and must not be interchanged.
Part # 420238P - Proportional (Cold) Inlet Valve for Model GWL11 $33.49

    Bookmark   May 6, 2008 at 7:59PM
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Thanks for the help, dadoes.

I tried each faucet and it looks like the cold valve....

So,is this a common problem with these models?

Is replacing this valve a DIY project or should I call the repair department at the dealer where I bought the unit?

How do I take off the control panel to access the water valves? either to replace them or inspect them to see if there is some sort of blockage...


    Bookmark   May 6, 2008 at 8:23PM
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Open the machine's lid, and remove it by pulling carefully upward at an angle to detach it from the hinges.

    Bookmark   May 6, 2008 at 11:25PM
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Remove the screw at each corner on back of the console.

    Bookmark   May 6, 2008 at 11:28PM
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Tilt the console forward and lift it up out of the slots at the front. Be careful of any attached wires as shown in the next pic.

    Bookmark   May 6, 2008 at 11:32PM
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There may be a wiring harness connecting the motor controller board to the display board inside the console panel. Lean the panel back and remove the wires from the holding clips to allow working room for flipping the console forward.

    Bookmark   May 6, 2008 at 11:36PM
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Ooops. Back up! Forgot to mention to turn the faucets off before starting ... and run the washer on a warm fill briefly to relieve pressure in the hoses. Then unplug the machine.

Now, proceeding ...

Flip the console forward and lay it atop the machine, securely so it doesn't fall.

Remove *both* supply hoses from the water valves, placing a towel beneath each one in turn to catch any dribbles.

The water valves are at the left, sitting atop the mixing chamber. Cold is the left valve with the yellow body. The little wired device at front of the mixing chamber is the thermistor to sense water temperature.

    Bookmark   May 6, 2008 at 11:43PM
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Press down carefully on the tab and gently pull the wiring terminal off the valve solenoid.

    Bookmark   May 6, 2008 at 11:46PM
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    Bookmark   May 6, 2008 at 11:47PM
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Remove the two screws from back that hold the valve bracket in place. Lift the bracket out.

    Bookmark   May 6, 2008 at 11:49PM
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Are you saying that this water mixing chamber is right next to the electrical panel?

    Bookmark   May 6, 2008 at 11:50PM
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Ok now I see more pictures and I guess it is.

    Bookmark   May 6, 2008 at 11:51PM
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The valve body simply presses into the opening in the mixing chamber. Carefully pull pry back/upward on the mixing chamber so the valve can clear the back edge of the console opening, and wiggle the valve out.

The mixing chamber can be removed, but that requires additional disassembly. You should be able to carefully remove the valve with the mixing chamber in place.

There is a screen in the valve's hose connection. The valve and solenoid are otherwise one piece and I don't think should be further disassembled to attempt cleaning of debris.

Reverse all the steps for reassembly.

DO NOT overtighten the supply hoses! They only need to be tight enough to not leak.

    Bookmark   May 7, 2008 at 12:01AM
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Dadoes -- are awesome. Thanks for such detailed instructions.
You've given me the confidence to give this repair a try for myself.

I called my dealer where I purchased the washer. They estimated the repair would cost about $150 (about $110 or so in labor costs, $35 parts)...

One quick question.....
what are the chances that using the washer a few times before the part arrives will flush the valve clean and stop the leak??

thanks again.

    Bookmark   May 7, 2008 at 10:38AM
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what are the chances that using the washer a few times before the part arrives will flush the valve clean and stop the leak??That is possible. One of my valves had an incident of dripping several years ago (probably was the cold valve). I cycled the fill on/off several times and tapped on the hose connection (without opening the console to access the valve directly), and the problem cleared up.

You can run the hot or cold valves directly via Diagnostic Mode. With the Power off, press and hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time. The machine should beep twice and panel lights come on. Pressing Wash Temp Up then turns the Hot valve on or off. Wash Temp Down operates the Cold valve. Pressing the Regular cycle button turns the drain pump on or off. Don't use any other buttons while in Diagnostic Mode without knowing what they do or you could accidentally change a required setting. Turn the Power off to exit Diagnostics. This information is outlined on the Tech Sheet that should be stashed inside your console. If you change or remove the valves for inspection, you can run the water via Diagnostics before closing up the console to confirm there are no leaks on the valve and chamber assembly.

    Bookmark   May 7, 2008 at 2:14PM
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Well, dadoes....
I really appreciate everything you have done here....posting of pictures and instructions and all....

but it seems the problem has rectified itself.

I changed my whole-hose sediment filter last Wednesday.
My wife did a few loads of laundry on Thursday.

She kept the hoses on all day and there were no drips between washings. I have been checking the washer since then and I am happy to report no leaks!

I must admit I was a bit lax in the changing of my sediment filter. It was about 1 month overdue. I typically change it every 3 months....
I am pretty sure that's what caused the problem in the first place.

But, one thing I have learned from this little problem....
From now on, I will be turning off the water lines to the washer when it is not in use. Not only to avoid a flood but my dealer said the valves in the washer are not really designed to hold back the water pressure.

thanks again dadoes.......

    Bookmark   May 12, 2008 at 11:51AM
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I know that Dadoes "Backed-up", and mentioned unpluging the power cord, but be sure to make sure that you unplug the washer "Before" you remove the console, because there are high voltage components in the motor control. I'm talking 400 to 500 volts DC. Instant death if you accidently touch the wrong connection.

    Bookmark   May 13, 2008 at 10:47PM
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I have to say Dadoes that this is a very informative thread with excellent information.

    Bookmark   May 15, 2008 at 12:51AM
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I recently developed some sort of leak in my washer, which caused a lot of puddling in the pan--twice. I usually run the washer at the "auto" setting, so that should set the water level appropriately, right? The only recent situation that might have caused the problem is that I left some tissues in a pocket and there was a LOT of lint. I wiped as much as I could out of the tub after removing the clothes, but I have no idea if there is some sort of lint screen. The manual hints that there is a trap, but the lint gets washed out in the rinse. My washer is in a tiny space on the second floor of my house, and it's way too heavy for me to move it to get to the back. Are there any troubleshooting steps I can take at this point other than moving the machine? I'm assuming I shouldn't try doing a wash at this point?

    Bookmark   January 2, 2009 at 3:51PM
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Shredded tissues will not cause leaking, but could clog the pump and/or diverter valve. There's no accessible filter screen.

I'd strongly suggest not using the machine until the source of the leaking can be investigated. If it's the pump, the pump can short-out if it gets wet/damaged from leaking and potentially kill the controller board.

    Bookmark   January 2, 2009 at 5:10PM
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Thanks, dadoes. The repair person is coming out Monday afternoon, so I'll just wear dirty or alternative clothes until then! You never realize how much you want to do wash until you can't!

    Bookmark   January 2, 2009 at 5:16PM
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I just have to say - Dadoes, you are AWESOME! I've neither the leak nor the machine, but I just know I could replace that valve too using your photo tutorial!

    Bookmark   January 3, 2009 at 11:44AM
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I have a Fisher&Paykel GWL 11 washer dided during cycle no power also consistant leak uaslly 4 hours after shutting down for the day can you help ??

    Bookmark   March 11, 2009 at 4:59PM
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All I can say is WOW! Dadoes you are great! It took me about 20 minutes to carefully replace the part. Now to see if it fixed the problem.

Thanks again!

    Bookmark   November 20, 2010 at 9:52AM
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Dadoes, thank you again for such detailed instructions and photos. I have the exact same problem with my cold valve. I just ordered the part and is excited I don't have to turn my water supply line off after every time I use my Paykel.

In the mean time, I have an idea and maybe you can talk me out of it... I was going to switch the hot/cold lines feeding to the machines so that the hot water can clean through the trapped sediments in the clogged filter of the cold valve. My logic is that the same sediment issue doesn't exist in the hot water valve because the +120 degrees water dissolves a lot a lot of mineral sediments that would otherwise be there in the cold valve.

Do you think it'll work???

    Bookmark   January 19, 2011 at 5:35AM
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I suppose that's something to try, but not likely it'll help. There may or may not be mineral residue involved in your situation, could be the valve has simply gotten weak, and if there is then more than just heat is likely needed to clear it (think Lime-a-Way to dissolve mineral deposits). The machine will also beep an error when it senses hot or cold flowing through the mixing chamber at the wrong times ... rinses will be hot when they should be cold, for example ... although it shouldn't stop/interrupt the cycle.

    Bookmark   January 19, 2011 at 6:48AM
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Thanks Dadoes.... My little trick ended up working?!?! I was ready to order the parts but after 5 washes with the tube switched, my washer is staying dry for now. We'll see how long this last. Thanks Again!

    Bookmark   March 2, 2011 at 10:28PM
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Thanks dadoes -- worked like a charm for me too

    Bookmark   July 12, 2013 at 6:42PM
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