gwl11 us

westnavyMay 29, 2014

Good morning all,

I have a Fisher & Paykel GW11 US. I searched the site for an answer for this, but alas, not one to be found.

Here we go: Wife was set to wash clothes and started the washer. Water started to come into the tub normally, then it stopped. Afterwards, it became intermittent (3 secs. on/3 secs. off). then after a while it stopped and beeped.

Upon home arrival, I found out about "codes" and it shows a "130", which is the RPS. I took off the RPS and cleaned the contacts, re-installed it and "ran" the machine.

Water once again intermittent. Changed hose connections cold>hot and vice versa, still no joy.

It seems to me that the water valve has an issue, but not sure what the "130" code has to do with the valve.

If it is NOT the RPS, then what do I check for at the valve?

As you can imagine, WIFCINCLANTFLT is not a happy camper, especially since the A/C went out the same day!
Thanks.

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dadoes

Run the hot and cold valves (separately) via diagnostic mode. Do they keep running, or cycle on/off on the same 3-sec pattern? If either or both acts flaky then the respective valve(s) may be bad.

Check them with a multimeter. Both should read 64 ohms with maybe a +/-10% variation.

The basket rotates at 25 RPM during fill periods. Is it turning? Does it continue to turn while the water flow is cycling on/off, or does it stop when the water stops?

Does a fault occur if the machine is set to the final spin and run until Off?

Also, don't confuse the fresh water fill spray (from the flume mounted at rear/center under the top deck with the pumped recirculation shower which occurs during the Eco Active wash phase (from the port at the right/rear under the tub cover).

    Bookmark   May 29, 2014 at 2:49PM
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westnavy

Dadoe,
Thanks for the reply. I just came in from troubleshooting the washer.

First, both valves (separately) "work", in diagnostic mode - both continue to fill.

Second, the Ohms:
62.7= Cold
62.9= Hot

After coming out of diagnostic mode, both valve continued their on/off sequence, but the drum does not turn/rotate.

I forwarded the cycle to "drain" and drained out all the water - it advanced to "spin" - the drum attempts to turn (it surges), but no further. After attempting to turn and failing, I receive a fault (presuming the 130 code).

Any ideas?

Thanks again.

    Bookmark   May 29, 2014 at 10:14PM
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dadoes

Replace the RPS. You've already been in there so know the drill. Other choices are a wiring fault or bad motor board, and the RPS is reasonable-enough cost to try against a board.

    Bookmark   May 29, 2014 at 10:29PM
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westnavy

Thanks!

Will do the RPS, seems reasonable that it is that since the code shows that.

Thanks again. I will update when i get it up (or not).

    Bookmark   May 29, 2014 at 11:25PM
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gr8daygw

since the AC went out on the same day maybe you had a power surge? Good luck getting it all squared away.

    Bookmark   June 1, 2014 at 7:30PM
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westnavy

To all: dadoe hit the nail on the head! Back in business!

    Bookmark   June 5, 2014 at 9:43PM
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rswojo0

I have a GW11 that starts to fill and the drum tries to rotate but just stops. It does this for a minute or so and stops trying and starts beeping. I get a diagnostic code of 130. I suspect the RPS so I looked at the SM to see how to replace the RPS. From what I read I have to take practically the whole machine apart to get at the RPS,

Is the an easy way to get at this RPS without disassembling almost the entire machine?

    Bookmark   July 3, 2014 at 1:11PM
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rswojo0

I have a GW11 that starts to fill and the drum tries to rotate but just stops. It does this for a minute or so and stops trying and starts beeping. I get a diagnostic code of 130. I suspect the RPS so I looked at the SM to see how to replace the RPS. From what I read I have to take practically the whole machine apart to get at the RPS,

Is the an easy way to get at this RPS without disassembling almost the entire machine?

    Bookmark   July 3, 2014 at 1:36PM
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dadoes

The entire machine does not need to be disassembled.

Only the SmartDrive motor is disassembled, from under the outer tub. The RPS is inside the motor, there's no other access to it.

    Bookmark   July 3, 2014 at 2:20PM
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rswojo0

Got my RPS yesterday. Installed it today, it took about a half hour. I could do the next one in about 15 minutes. The washer works like a champ now. Hopefully it will be good for another 10 years now.

Thanks for your participation in this forum dadoes.

    Bookmark   July 8, 2014 at 6:52PM
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