Dryer Recommendations

lazydaisynotApril 26, 2011

Our electric Maytag dryer sounds like its days are numbered and I'd like to be prepared to make a quick decision when it stops working. Would greatly appreciate any suggestions for a reliable, mid-priced, electric dryer with a moisture sensor. Our Fisher Paykel washer works fine so we're not looking for a combo. Laundry room is on second floor near bedrooms. I run an average of one load or two a day and don't anything fancy, but would prefer something that doesn't burst into flames and can handle a large comforter. Thanks very much.

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dadoes

You should consider repairing what you have. Dryers are mechanically simple. There are some parts that wear over time (belt idler pulleys, drum support slides/bearings/rollers) but they're inexpensive and typically easy to replace. The result is a dryer that will probably run again for as long as it did initially, barring other problems such as the heating element (which also is inexpensive and easy to replace), motor, and timer.

    Bookmark   April 26, 2011 at 6:34AM
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mike_73

yes if its still heats up it's likely worth fixing. If you or your DH is handy with mechanical things I'm sure he can fix it, these things are simple. If its drum slides or rollers those parts are not expensive and fixing what you got and not tossing it in the trash for a simple cheap to repair fault is the green thing to do.

    Bookmark   April 26, 2011 at 7:18AM
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lazydaisynot

Thank you for your replies.I appreciate this perspective and we certainly tend to repair rather than replace. We've already had one fairly expensive repair to the machine several years ago. However, another problem with the dryer is that the plastic grid that houses the lint filter has cracked and a large portion of it has completely broken off. Consequently, the lint filter does not seem to be filtering adequately, and we get lots of lint on the roof near the vent. I mean so much lint that you can see it from the street in front of the house. I worry that this means there is a build up of lint in our ducting that could be a fire hazard. We cannot find a replacement housing (or whatever this part is called) for this machine. So with this issue of concern along with whatever problem is currently developing I thought the thing to do would be to replace the machine. Do you disagree?

    Bookmark   April 26, 2011 at 11:39AM
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dadoes

I can't agree until I research for myself if the part is NLA. :-)

What's the model number of the machine?

    Bookmark   April 26, 2011 at 3:22PM
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the_seven

See my post on new GE 7 cu ft electric dryer.

Since there were several broken parts and and maybe it is a good time for an new one.

    Bookmark   April 26, 2011 at 5:33PM
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lazydaisynot

Dadoes, your message prompted me to search again, and I did find a replacement piece for about $70. We will need to consider whether it's worth it to pay for this part plus shipping, plus a service call, plus time and materials to fix the sound that's occurring (one post says this model is prone to "throwing the engine," especially if there's a grinding sound when it starts up.) Um, yep. I have no idea what that means. And all this knowing that something else could break sooner or later. Ugh. Anyway, thanks very much for your suggestions.

the_seven, I also appreciate your suggestion and will take a look at your post. Many thanks.

    Bookmark   April 26, 2011 at 10:49PM
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dadoes

Again, I ask what is the model number? (Why are people so reluctant to provide this crucial bit of information when asking for assistance?) Perhaps I can find the part at a lower cost at the sources I use. I can also perhaps give you advice on what may be the source of the grinding noise, and directions on how to change the filter housing and thus save the cost of a service call.

    Bookmark   April 27, 2011 at 1:31AM
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lazydaisynot

Dadoes, I was just trying to avoid you having to do something on my behalf. The model number is LDE9606ACE. My serial number is 1068499850. My husband is handy with wood projects, painting, some small-scale plumbing and electric (like wiring an outlet or a lamp) but has not worked on major appliances.

    Bookmark   April 27, 2011 at 11:13AM
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itguy08

Working on appliances isn't that hard if you're relatively handy. When we had our LG WM2277 I did all of the (few) repairs to it myself. I replaced the Hall sensor, water valves (leaking), and a few other things. All these things needed a set of hand tools and just some basic wrench things.

Another helpful thing is a service manual but if you're handy it's simple to figure out.

    Bookmark   April 27, 2011 at 1:59PM
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dadoes

Allrightythen!

Assuming the filter housing is part number 33001016 ...

Numerous online sources list it. A few I checked range from $39.61 to $55.45. PartsStore.com, SearsPartsDirect.com, AppliancePartsPros.com, PartsTap.com, and RepairClinic.com. Do a Google search on the part number for more choices. Compare each source for best price including shipping. You may also need blower seal #312901 (Y321901).

A "grinding" noise occurring mainly at startup (eases/stops within a few seconds after the machine gets going) could be the blower wheel cracked where it fits to the motor shaft. The blower being loose on the shaft would generate a noise until it spins up to full speed. Other noise sources (that would likely continuing making the noise for the duration of the run) are the front drum support bearings, rear support rollers, belt, belt idler pulley, and motor bearings. If the front support bearings (which are flat nylon strips on which the edge of the drum rides) are worn, they should be replaced ASAP, or the edge of the drum and the front support bulkhead will contact metal-to-metal and wear down quickly. The drum can wear through the bulkhead.

Blower wheel $22 to $25
Front Bearing $4 to $14 (two needed, and a rivet gun to install them)
Drum Roller $16 to $22 (possibly two needed)

RepairClinic has video clips showing various procedures. Replacement of the filter housing isn't specifically covered, but the housing attaches to the front drum bulkhead, and several videos show how to access that area. These are all easy, routine repairs of "normal wear" parts. You wouldn't throw out your car because it needs a new water pump or belt or brake pads ... why would you toss out a dryer for similar reasons? :-)

    Bookmark   April 27, 2011 at 8:26PM
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the_seven

According to the suggestion, the cost of parts for repair could be $100 to $180 if DIY.

    Bookmark   April 28, 2011 at 1:16PM
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lazydaisynot

Thank you all for the information and suggestions. Dadoes, I realize that it took some time for you to put together the information for me. Very kind of you.

    Bookmark   April 28, 2011 at 5:10PM
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drywall_diy_guy

Avoid any dryer with a heating coil like the one shown in the link below. This is a recipe for a fire! The vibration easily shakes the coil off and then the coil grounds out, resulting in enough heat to cause a fire. Instead, get a dryer with a heating unit in the back.

Here is a link that might be useful: Electric Clothes Dryers To Avoid!

    Bookmark   April 30, 2011 at 6:00PM
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dadoes

This is the typical heating element arrangement for many GE and Frigidaire/WCI dryer. I have a unit (not either of the mentioned brands, but built the same way) 11 years old, no trouble with it thus far.

I refurbished an 8-years-old GE recently that had a broken element. The coils are largely secure when attached properly to the insulators, but thermal variations during operation cause the coils to expand and contract and possibly detach.

More of a concern IMO is that the drum's back plate can get very hot during operation and scorch clothing, since the element is directly behind it. This can particularly be a problem with bulky items such as quilts and comforters.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2011 at 8:07PM
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