I have an Apriliare 600 hooked up and it just stopped working. I got it when I got my new HVAC system in 2006. How can I check it before calling in a technician?
Has it been maintained regularly? Do you have the manual? How is the power supplied? (Need that info to see how you need to check the electrical supply.)
I have an Aprilaire 400 attached to my heating system... not too many moving parts and yours has even less.
How do you know it is not working?
This post was edited by saltidawg on Wed, Feb 19, 14 at 9:16
Well, normally, I could hear the water (condensation) running thru the pipe which runs down by the washing machine drain. Now, I hear nothing. That's the only way I can judge it.
I used to get it maintained when I was with the company that installed my HVAC but I left that company 3 yrs ago. My current company doesn't cover that so I would have to pay extra just for maintenance on it. I'm going to check into that now. I was hoping I could just buy and change the filter myself.
You can and should replace the water panel annually.
It's easy to do.
What indicator lights are you seeing at the control panel mounted on the return (cold) plenum?
You need no tools to perform the routine maintenance. Let's try to do it ourselves before you feel the need to call anyone.
PS I edited my first post above to say I have the Aprilaire 400 installed - not the 600 as I had originally mistyped.
Here is a link that might be useful: Owner's Manual
This post was edited by saltidawg on Thu, Feb 20, 14 at 14:17
Yes, provided that the OP can use the simplest hand tools, and the installation was done well, it should be pretty easy. I worked on one a few years ago and decided to descale the water panel with vinegar so I could get the job done over a holiday at my in-laws while the suppliers were closed.
I will take a picture of it. I do not see any lights on the panel. In fact, the knob that controls the humidity moves and it doesn't click or feel like it's changing anything. I had always wondered about that-;). It just feels useless.
I'll be back...
Do you not have a control unit as pictured in Figure B here:NEVER MIND!
I see you have a control unit that is manual as shown in Figure C.
Test the Humidifier by carrying out the simple test below... note furnace fan must be running.
Here is a link that might be useful: Figure C
This post was edited by saltidawg on Thu, Feb 20, 14 at 14:22
Here's a pic of the controls. I can only put one pic here at a time
3rd picture - it's in an awkward place meaning it's a tight area where I would need to put a step stool so I could reach it.
I see it is in the Damper Open position - the correct setting for heating season. Good.
Follow the simple instruction spelled out beneath figure C in the link I provided.
If you ultimately need to into the big box, the plastic cover simply unsnaps at the bottom and lifts off, exposing the water panel. We'll get to that, particularly if it has not been replaced in three years. :-)
You have such a huge humidifier! I'm guessing its for commercial use? too big for a house? :) Better call a technician for that.. how is the filter change if that big?
If you read all of my posts in this thread, it is a simple device easily serviced by a homeowner. The manual is linked to above - maybe you should take a look at that before suggesting to immediately call for and pay for a service visit.
No, it is not for commercial use - and changing the "filter" (sic) is very easy.
Thanks Saltidawg:) I don't know where the water saddle valve is?? It said to make sure it was open...? Do I need to turn my heat on so the fan will run? Right now, it's not running. I'm going by the instructions on Fig. C
Okay Saltidawg...I did it!!!! It's working-;). Hooray! I had to turn my heat up to get the fan running and then I turned the humidistat up and I heard a click and I went downstairs and eventually, I could hear the water running (condensation) and oh yeah, the yellow light is on to change the water panel LOL. First time I've seen that light on.
Now, can I buy a filter for it at Lowes or Home Depot?
I'm so happy!!!! Thank you Saltidawg for your encouragement that I could do this myself-;). Well, I'll probably need your help with the filter change. I did watch a YouTube on changing it but he was talking about shouting off this and doing that, etc. hope it will be an easy enough task-;)
Thanks again for all of your help!
Changing the water panel is, in fact, easy.
You want Stock #35 for the 600 and 600M Aprilaire ....
Google it and get a couple at like $10 each. (A possible source below.)
I also think Sears has them... http://www.sears.com/space-gard-and-aprilaire-35-aprilaire-replacement-water/p-SPM8066534502?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7
PS You made us all proud --so far. ;-)
Here is a link that might be useful: One Source
As you already found out, you do need to turn the heat on... actually maybe just the fan to RUN might work. (The manual just indicates the fan must be running... don't know for sure if that just assumes heat is running.
As far as the water saddle valve, you will need to shut it to change the water panel. In looking at your Picture #2, I see the small copper water supply line to the lower LEFT of the large box. That line comes from the saddle valve.
If your hot water heater is close to your heating unit, the saddle valve is often found on the hot water line out of the top of the water heater.
It's maybe 2 inches tall with a very thin handle on it.
You can look for it while waiting for your panels to arrive.
Yes, I believe I did find the saddle valve on top of the water heater. I've just ordered the filters on amazon. Thank you:) Funny thing, I looked in the room where the HVAC is and the yellow light [to change water panel] is not on. I wonder if it only comes on when the humidifier is running? Maybe that's why I never noticed it before?
Is this the saddle water valve that I will need to shut off when I replace the filter?
I should be receiving the filters in a few days.
That is a Saddle Valve and assuming the copper tube goes to your Humidifier.
The other "tube" you see in your picture is an electrical wire connecting the hot water piping to the cold water piping for electrical grounding purposes.
When you have your water panels in hand, you'll need to read some more below that Figure C for instructions.
It really is easy.
I use Quicken to remind me in mid-April and mid- October to deal with the humidifier.
In mid-April I replace the water panel, move the bypass to shut, and shut the saddle valve and turn off the humidifier. This turns off the humidifier and stops air flow through it. (The clean water panel leaves it ready to be simply turned on six months later.)
In mid-October I open the saddle valve, set the bypass lever to Bypass position, turn the Switch to Reset to test, and set it to 40%.
Repeat every year. Probably takes 15 minutes each servicing.
Also, I shopped the www for water panels a few years ago and bought like a dozen to save on both unit price and shipping.
When I looked at amazon.com this AM the hit I got was that they were expensive there today.
This post was edited by saltidawg on Fri, Feb 21, 14 at 17:51
I'm going to guess you have a special switch (paddle switch) inside the vents that powers the unit when the blower is on. That would explain why the lamp is out when the blower is off.
On my Aprilaire there is no panel... the voltage for my humidifier is available any time the heating plant is calling for fan operation. Aprilaire points out that simply turning the thermostat to "Fan" will permit humidity addition even if heat is not called for.
I have never used this feature except during servicing.
I do note that they have accessories to allow different configurations, so I can not be ABSOLUTELY sure this is the way the OP's humidifier works.
You guys, this is Greek to me-:). I really don't know what I have. When I got my new HVAC, I told the salesman that I wanted a humidifier and this is what I got. Like I said before, I always had that company service it but I dropped them (another story) and the company I have now doesn't include humidifiers without an extra fee,
I never really gave it much thought until recently. That's when I realized that I didn't think it was working at all but I think I had the humidistat turned down low and apparently the humidity inside was high enough...I dunno-;)
The filters I ordered were a 2 pk for about $20. Of course, add delivery-;) but it's still cheaper than a technician call.
The discussion weedmeister and I had likely has no importance to you... you found that to get your fan to come on you raised the thermostat until it called for heat. Great! It's POSSIBLE that you can get the thermostat to work that all you have to do is turn the fan to RUN at the thermostat. No matter.
Also, in the future you can get a better price... try the Link titled "one Source" above and put in a couple of quantities - the shipping remains the same.
This post was edited by saltidawg on Mon, Feb 24, 14 at 12:16
I suggest you buy an inexpensive humidity monitor. The link below is the one I have. The readings may be off 2-4%, but it is still better then setting a dial on the humidifier. It also records min and max values for temperature and humidity.
Here is a link that might be useful: AcuRite 613 Indoor Humidity Monitor
Thanks Mike-I will check into that.
Okay, I received the water panels today.mmim going to attempt to change it-;). Wish me luck here.
The obvious question... did you find the (simple) instructions in the manual?
I was a little nervous but I did it!! I hope it's right-;). Here's a pic of the old filter. I had a bit of trouble turning off the saddle valve as the handle was tight. And also, the tube stayed on the tray when I took the whole thing out. So I just took the old water panel out and slipped the new one in with the mark on top and snapped it back on.
I went back downstairs to put the thermostat up so it would be running but when I did, it said waiting. Was it trying to reset itself from the furnace being shut off?
I will try it again soon.
Also, I bought one of those humidity monitors-;).
Yes, I did find the instructions but I also watched some demonstrations on YouTube. That helped and gave me more confidence.
I'm pretty sure I got it now! LOL.
Thanks for all of your help...I wouldn't have attempted it otherwise.
Annual replacement of the panel should be viewed as a guideline. The amount of mineral build up will depend on humidifier run time and the characteristics of your water supply.
I have only seen one of them so others can say better how yours looks, but it looks pretty clean to me. You might not need to do it for another three years.
My water panels have looked different than the pictured one.
Mine has looked fine except for a large yellow stain about half the width of the panel running from top to bottom - as if a dog peed on the top and ...
Oh, never mind.
Glad it worked out for the OP...
This post was edited by saltidawg on Tue, Feb 25, 14 at 20:21
I really didn't know how to operate this humidifier and I think I had it too low most of the time. That could be why the filter didn't look so bad.
Question: when the saddle valve is on to allow water flow...is the t-knob turned all the way to the left? To turn it off, you turn it all the way to the right?
See, I have not been turning the water supply off to the humidifier in the summer, just the knob on the humidifier from winter to summer. Is that ok?
As you look thru the handle from atop of the valve, turn the handle anti-clockwise to open.
Again, did you read the instructions?
Honest, I tried.
Maybe someone else can help if you need additional assistance..
This post was edited by saltidawg on Wed, Feb 26, 14 at 8:52
Yes, I read the instructions but it doesn't say anything about turning or which way to turn the saddle value. Also, it doesn't say anything about turning it off for summer.
Sorry if I ask so many questions but sometimes instructions are not always geared to newbies like myself-;). For instance, it says to turn the damper knob to close....why don't they just say to turn the knob to summer? That would make more since to me. Ã°ÂÂÂ
"...why don't they just say to turn the knob to summer?"
Could it be the manufacturer doesn't assume you live in the northern hemisphere or would not know during what season the humidity is high? :)
The saddle valve works like a facet valve in that you turn it completely opened or closed. They are the worst kind of valve a plumber can install. They are flimsy and not meant to be constantly opened and closed. I suppose opening and closing it twice a year is OK, but I would rather see a ball valve. It is much more secure and you can tell from the handle position if it is opened or closed.
I would not mess with a saddle valve as a means of control. In this case, there is no need for seasonal shut-off.
Thanks, I wasn't going to shut it off for seasonal purposes. However, when I change the water panel, I need to shut the saddle valve to close, right? I agree in that the t-part of the saddle valve is flimsy and awkward for me to open and close. I would think that if you shut off your furnace and turn the humidifier to the off position, that would suffice for changing the water panel...but what do I know? Ã°ÂÂÂ