TrafficMaster Allure vinyl floor install

singleton165September 16, 2007

For those of you that have installed this flooring, I have a question...

I plan on installing this in a hallway leading into the living room. I was going to put it in the hallway to see how it looked, then if I liked carry it into the living room. The problem is that if I do that, half of the living room will be installed backwards...the adhesive lip will have to be put under the existing plank.

My question is, do you think I should start in the living room and hope that the hallway is square to that space?

LOL - I just answered my own question...I think that I should start in the living room, on the wall closest to the hallway, that way if it isn't square I would have less to lift up and adjust.

Any suggestions?

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I am in the process of installing some now. Changes in direction or reversal of the strips will absolutely require threshold strip over the transition, no way to do it with the strips. Starting in one corner is the only choice. If you start next to the hallway and want to use the Allure in the hallway plus the room, it will have to be installed the full length of both areas initially. PLAN CAREFULLY. Look over your plan for a day or two. Instructions are on the bottom of the box. I had to be imaginative with some things not covered in the instructions. Buy a roll of double faced tape in the carpet dept. Vacuum ahead of yourself- repeatedly and frequently while installing.

    Bookmark   September 16, 2007 at 9:33PM
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I did a small room/laundry closet. I found the instructions on the Konecto site better than the ones on the Allure box. I've linked the site below...the PDF's are very useful. Also--what bus driver said!

As far as I can tell, the Allure is like the bottom of the line Konecto.


Here is a link that might be useful: Konecto site

    Bookmark   September 17, 2007 at 8:37PM
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I am not sure about the instructions difference. I had both the Allure box and the Konecto instructions. Mostly they are the same, word for word. Allure box says made in China. The only Konecto I have seen are individual samples at a dealers. Allure at local HD is just 3 colors, Konecto has wide variety of colors. Higher priced than the Allure. Konecto sample had release liner on the adhesive to keep it clean, Allure does not. Release liner would be really good in some cases, but would slow installation due to removing the liner. I did some of my cutting on a bandsaw and the liner would be very good for that to keep the adhesive clean. I used "sensitive surface" blue masking tape to cover the adhesive while sawing to width for the first and last walls of the room and for the hallway walls. Finished my install yesterday, going to rent roller today and install moldings.

    Bookmark   September 18, 2007 at 7:10AM
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busdriver--the blue masking tape idea is BRILLIANT. I would've like the liners...because I'd have liked to do a "Dry fit" before we started. I want to do a long hall. and have the allure run the length of the hall. Do you think a bandsaw would work for "splitting" the planks lengthwise? I tried the "score and snap" and was less than pleased...

    Bookmark   September 18, 2007 at 1:54PM
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I used the 2" tape. Made sure it was sealed to the non-adhesive areas, wrapped around the edge, and loose if possible on the adhesive. The band saw cuts beautifully, but the blade tends to gum up. Buy an extra blade or two so that the job can move quickly. Clean the blades later. I think the same adhesive is used to bond the two layers together. I have not tried to clean the adhesive from the blade. Will try mineral spirits paint thinner first. I started at the wall with the entry door, the hallway was on the other side of the room. Calculations from that wall to the hallway showed "x" rows @ 6" to the hallway plus 5". So the first row along the first wall was cut to 5". I used a 12" x 12" vinyl to cut strips to fit on the underside adhesive part of the strip so that the edge would no droop. When I got to the hallway, those strips required no cutting. The first row down the hall needed the double-faced tape to hold it in position. (I did have to do minor trimming of some of the strips for that row due to some angularity errors in the hallway). The final row was about 2 3/4" wide. Seams are not very visible and the first 5" row looks good at the most visible place in the room. The offal from the piece cut to end a row often makes a good starter for the next row- no waste! I do that with hardwood flooring too. I do flooring only for myself. My strong skills are electrical, plumbing, and cabinet making.

    Bookmark   September 18, 2007 at 5:37PM
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Sweet. My strong suit is gardening...and I paint pretty well...but I still managed to lay the floor in the laundry room...with DH doing the math and cutting.

We glued the threshold to the old tile in the hall so that we can pull it up without damaging the new flooring. (Liquid nails--seems to have worked.) The above is the Allure Oak.

I'm intrigued by the stone look Konecto...I'm going to go to the flooring store tomorrow to find out if they can get me samples...and what the price differential is.

I agree that it's all the same contact-adhesive.


    Bookmark   September 18, 2007 at 6:17PM
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My husband and I have been researching flooring alternatives to our hideously ugly builder's basic sheet vinyl. He seems convinced that click and lock laminate flooring lays beyond our capabilites while I think we can do it just fine, slowly, but fine. He has locked onto the Trafficmaster planks he saw at HD and I've been trying to get the scoop on them. How have they been working for you? Bare minimum, we need to redo the hallway and kitchen floors, but I'd like to carry our chosen replacement into the LR/DR and FR as well. Would this product work well there?

    Bookmark   September 19, 2007 at 7:45PM
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I can tell you that I am planning on doing my basement in it...but I may move up to the middle level Konecto. More color choices. That said, I have real reasons for sticking with a floating floor...and not laminate.

1) Laminate is not really a good choice for a basement. (potential damp/water issues) Similarly, I don't think it would be great for a kitchen.

2) I have to go over old mastic which I don't want to remove. (Takes nasty chemicals to do so.) The old mastic is a real bond breaker...that means I MUST use a floating system. I CAN tell you that the Allure looks pretty good...even close up. Here is a "macro" shot (you can see my one "bad" seam):

We did work from three open boxes at once (if I were painting I'd say we "batched" them) and we trashed a couple of pieces...but all in all it went well. I don't know that the laminate would have been any more difficult, though.


    Bookmark   September 19, 2007 at 8:11PM
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The pictures all look great! Thanks for the macro shot! We live in Florida and don't have a basement, so that's not a concern. I don't have an icemaker installed on my fridge because both our parents had leak issues. All I have is the normal water splash-overs from doing the dishes and the dishwasher. And if it blows, whatever I have under it is going to be toast, no matter WHAT I put there.

I am worried about slippage. Since this floor truly floats on top of your previous flooring and doesn't stick to the anything but itself, how do you keep it from shifting around? This the most high-traffic area in our house, since you have to walk thru the kitchen and hall if you ever want to get in or out. Also, we have two cats who have shown a liking to various leather/faux leather/vinyl products in the house. They've never touched the sheet flooring, but I worry about the claw factor with the softer flooring materials.

But mostly... Our house is a fairly open plan, with most rooms looking out on another. I really want to pull up our bare-bones carpet and padding in all the public areas and run the new flooring from the DR and LR on either side of the entry hall thru the open kitchen and into the FR. And I'd prefer the Master BR be a hard floor as well for allergy relief. Everyone I've run into has this flooring in a basement, laundry room, or some kind of spare room. I don't know how this would hold up being run thru 90% of our house. Especially since I peeked thru one of the open boxes at the store and almost every piece I picked up had the same pattern on it... That just has me worried. Maybe the mid-level version would work better. Where do you find this Konecto? Has anyone used either of these products on a large scale?

    Bookmark   September 19, 2007 at 10:13PM
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If you go to the Konecto site you can do a search for a dealer. My local dealer told me it was backordered through August, and I needed a floor before he thought he'd be able to get it--and like the good dealer he is--HE told me about the HD stuff. Now he's pretty much guaranteed himself a customer for when we re-do the baths and such. (And the full basement, if I can swing the higher priced stuff.)

My laundry room is NOT high traffic, and it's only been down six weeks, so I can't answer for how it wears. SLippage, however, I can address.

When you are laying it, you use double sided carpet tape to keep the first course in place until you've laid the full floor. You leave a 1/4" expansion gap around the entire floor, and cover the gap with shoe molding. (Just like you do a laminate floor.) Even if it shifted, it could only shift a bit...and I hjonestly think the weight of the floor will keep it in place. If I were putting the stuff down in a high-traffic area, I might rent a roller for the seams. As it was, I just used my rolling pin.

Invest in good kneepads. A REALLY good utility knife and extra blades. DH and I laid the floor together--he measured and cut and I installed. And neither of us raised our voices. Not once. (He's not "allowed" to paint with me...and I love him too much to risk wallpaper. So the install was easier than THOSE.)I'd rent a video on laminate install--and then watch the Konecto video...and see which yo think is more difficult. If you can afford the laminate, you might want to do that...

Konecto video link is on the lower right hand corner of their site.


Here is a link that might be useful: Konecto site

    Bookmark   September 20, 2007 at 8:36AM
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Konecto/Allure waterproof? They make the claim. Well, it is a definite maybe . Where the ends butt together, the lower layer does have a small gap between the two exposed adhesive surfaces of the two strips. The only prevention of water penetration through that gap to the subfloor is a tight butt of the end of the next strip that is installed. If spills are removed quickly, water penetration should be very minimal. But I think it is not as watertight as seamless vinyl sheet. But the stuff is probably more resistant to tears than is any sheet vinyl.

    Bookmark   September 20, 2007 at 12:53PM
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An update on my experience. I installed about 150 square feet. Drove about 13 miles to a rental place to get the specified floor roller. So the total driving for that was about 52 miles. The roller was not very effective for really making the seams flush. So I tried a dead-blow hammer- urethane face. Very surprised to find it not very effective. So I used a 16 ounce carpenters hammer to tap the seams. Very effective. Tedious, but took less time than the time involved in renting the roller. Flush seams probably is critical to prevent tearing from dragged items.

    Bookmark   October 11, 2007 at 5:29PM
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Update: The instructions did not mention temperature- or I did not notice it- It was about 85 deg. when I installed the Allure in the unoccupied dwelling. This AM it was about 50 deg there. The seams are highly visible, opened up as the material shrunk when cooled. Looks horrid. The seams I hammered are now uneven again. The opened seams will catch dirt and dust, not close properly when the temp rises again. I deeply regret buying this product. Obviously, long term experience will be after the passing of time.

    Bookmark   October 13, 2007 at 12:22PM
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bus_driver, are there any specs about temperature on the Allure? Is it supposed to withstand that range?

    Bookmark   October 14, 2007 at 12:32AM
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It's supposed to be installed within a temperature range...and (if I recall correctly) it's supposed to come to temp in the house before one installs it. I believe it was supposed to stay between 50 and 85 degrees...but I don't really remember. Since we are putting it in a house that is always heated or cooled, and below grade at that (constant temp--even when we were without power for six days because of an ice storm) I'm not worried about the heat/cool specs.

I MIGHT think twice if I were going to put it in a vacation home that sat hot/cold for long periods of time. Mine still looks good more than a month after install...and we "scooted" the washer a bit. I think it will be a good the appropriate situation.

    Bookmark   October 14, 2007 at 9:52PM
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Questions for those who have already installed this...
The home depot installation video and marketing for the product make it look easier than the instructions, so I'm a bit confused.

First, do I need double-sided tape just on the first row, around the perimeter or do I even need it at all as long as I keep the edge 1/8" from the wall? The home depot video shows no use of tape at all!?!

Second, do I need to trim the excess overhang 1/8" from the vinyl base matting as indicated in the instructions or not? Doing so will mean a lot of precise measuring and cutting which could have an impact on the straight edge that I'll be using to align the flooring to the wall. Seems like a lot of extra cutting and a major pain that the video didn't take the time to mention. :(

The "installation" video also didn't mention the need to roll the floor, but that's easy enough. It kinda urks me how these installation videos are over simplified making projects look easier than they really are (if that's indeed the case). Even the mfg's website misleads the consumer by saying it's as simple as position, place and trim to fit.

BTW - The instructions I'm referring to are on Konecto's site or on the box the flooring comes in and the video is mentioned in a previous post.

    Bookmark   October 19, 2007 at 1:26PM
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1) We used the double stick tape all the way around the room....seemed to keep things from slipping as we laid the strips. Don't know if it's necessary--but it was certainly helpful.

2) We did not trim the excess overhang. I don't think we realized we were supposed to! So far so good.

3) I used a rolling pin to roll the floor...seems to be handling the traffic well. Now, granted, it's the laundry closet...but we did shift the washer several inches and all seems to be well.


    Bookmark   October 19, 2007 at 4:23PM
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I'm just posting an update on this product. I was looking at the Home Depot web site and there are about 16 (if I counted correctly) different colors/wood types to choose from. There's even a cork pattern. Because of all the new options I found a color that I like for my master bedroom. Woo Hoo! Just thought there might be some other interested parties.

    Bookmark   December 14, 2007 at 11:04AM
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I plan on doing my LR with that stuff, probley the kitchen also maybe even the Bath room depending on how it goes. I was also concerning putting heating wire under part of it because 1/2 of my LR is on an above ground slab. Anybody had any experience with electric heat wire under it?

    Bookmark   December 18, 2007 at 6:31PM
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A rep stated:

"1.Yes you can install this product over in-floor radiant heat as long as the heat strips(electric) or pipes( hydronic ) don't come in direct contact with the product."

There's a very long thread here and a company rep made a bunch of posts answering questions.

Here is a link that might be useful: House and Home

    Bookmark   December 20, 2007 at 12:57PM
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can someone please explain how to install this flooring i was not told about a roller and i have the flooring cutter thats it i hear you can use a rolling pin?...i need step by step directions its a approx 8x10 room plus doorway to living room but stopping at doorway....this is my kitchen so i need to go around stove fridge water line for fridge which are on the south wall..i figured to start at south work may way toward back door and living room and basement door which are on the north where i intend to end.

    Bookmark   March 18, 2008 at 11:16AM
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Im concerning installing this in my new kitchen and LR and was looking at the Konecto site and saw that they warranty was only 7 years for the country collection and 25 years for the other lines. I believe that Home Depot has the cheaper 7 year stuff. Can anyone verify this? How is it wearing with those of you that have it installed over time?

    Bookmark   March 19, 2008 at 11:18PM
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I'm about to buy the Allure from Home Depot and it has a 25 yr warranty. I'm doing the hallway and bathroom and hopefull bedrooms in the future.
Does anybody have a picture of the hickory installed?

    Bookmark   July 7, 2008 at 10:29AM
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Installed the Allure Trafficmaster in (2) bedrooms about 6 months ago on a clean cement floor. YUCK - The seams are lifting and the floor is buckling. It looks terrible. Love the look and the feel of the floor but cannot get it to stay down.

    Bookmark   October 14, 2008 at 5:30PM
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This flooring is very temperature sensitive!!!! VERY!!!

    Bookmark   October 14, 2008 at 6:00PM
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Well this thread answered my guestion about why we had a near perfect lay in the bathroom and pantry and it keeps lifting in the kitchen . The kitchen was done a day later and the product was taken out of the hot van and put right on the floor without any time to get to room temp. I love the look and feel of it but what a huge waste of monney. It will have to be replaced soon. Its to bad because its a beatiful floor.

    Bookmark   October 17, 2008 at 10:02PM
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Mine has been down for over a year...and hasn't lifted. It's also in an interior basement room...small space, with heavy appliances on it.

We used a rolling pin to roll the seams. We also had the stuff in the house for a month before we laid it.

    Bookmark   October 18, 2008 at 8:09PM
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i am going to be putting this in my bathroom soon im really glad people took the time to help us install allure i will wait a few days after it arrives use double sided tape make sure there is no dirt around and roll the seams lets hope we live and learn from this product that looks so beautiful i will update as things go along thanks again charlene

    Bookmark   October 23, 2008 at 1:09PM
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Just wondering if anyone has had this in their home for over a year now, and what they think of it? We are going to install it in our laundry room, on a concrete basement floor. We live in Manitoba, Canada,so we have very cold seasons (-37 degrees Celcius today) and very hot seasons. The house is always heated/cooled to about 20 degrees C/ 70 degrees F. Just wondering if everyone is still happy with the flooring, after a year or more.

    Bookmark   January 6, 2009 at 9:33AM
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I installed the hickory trafficmaster in my kitchen and hallway. I had to meet up the cut ends between the hallway and kitchen to make the best fit. Now I have a gap that needs a transitions strip and I haven't found any obvious choices yet. Pergo has some strips and some company makes metal strips with wood motifs but nothing matches with the Allure hickory color. Any suggestions?

    Bookmark   February 23, 2009 at 6:29PM
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Anyone install this in a laundry room where you have a front load washer. Concerned about the high spin of this type of machine and any vibration this could cause and shift the floor. The HD rep told me to first put a deglazing product on my existing vinyl sheet flooring, then roll on a vinyl adhesive and secure the Allure to the floor where the washer is located. Anyone has any input or ideas or dealt with this issue?

    Bookmark   March 9, 2009 at 8:01PM
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Hay all just got this from HD and I am about to install it in are Kitchen any help or heads up on how to do it would be nice. I like the idea of the blue tape befor hand to lay it out. The instructions on the box read like Greek, and even though I am Greek I still do not get it lol.
I dont get the part about the cutting of trimm 1/8" and the 1/8" from the wall, will this stuff slide or move at all? let me thank you now for any help and I will post bfor and after pic for all to see.

    Bookmark   April 9, 2009 at 1:07PM
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Just finished putting this in my bathroom and adjacent vanity area. Because of where my clawfoot tub and drain were going, I started this basically at the threshold to the bathroom (without any cutting.) Then, when ready to bring the flooring outside the immediate bathroom area, I would have been going the wrong way. (And slipping it underneath is no where's near as easy as laying it on top! Very sticky stuff! Though it is possible.) So I cut a piece lengthwise that would give me the sticky inch to go underneath plus the sticky edge width with about a 1/16 less than the usual exposed sticky side. Then I just used my hair dryer to slowly and carefully peel the peice apart. That give me one sticky piece (approximately 1/16 less wide than two sticky edges would be put together) to go underneath the strip I had and that left a remaining sticky edge exposed like normal. Then away I went out the door into the hall area installing like normal on top of one another. (I cut the peice the 16th less, just in case I wasn't exactly square, though I did use a square for all cutting.) This worked really well, too bad they don't include a couple of pieces with the sticky pertruding all the way around for this purpose! Anyway, so far (it's been down about a month) love this stuff and the way it came out, and am going to do more hallways with it. Hope this helps if you need to make the same sort of transition, and I hope I made sense here!

    Bookmark   June 13, 2009 at 3:28PM
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Do you remove the shoe molding or just leave the 1/8 gap without removing the shoe molding.

    Bookmark   June 13, 2009 at 8:44PM
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We removed the shoe molding. It has been three years (almost) and my Allure still looks great. No seams lifting...and it's gotten serious water on it on three separate occasions. Dried out beautifully.


    Bookmark   July 13, 2010 at 8:06AM
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PROBLEM... Not sure what to do..
I planned on installing the allure Sierra style ceramic tile sheets in two areas. I will try to describe.. entrance hall and Kitchen. you walk into our home is the entrance hall and to the right is the kitchen. I have a couple questions and a problem.

1. The problem I have is the instructions say to start in a corner which I did and to cut off the grip strip that is underneath facing the wall, which I DID NOT do, I just butted it up against the wall in the corner and staggard them 1st row 3 squares, 2nd, 2 squares, 1st ¡V one square. There will be molding against the wall that will cover it up, I was wondering if this is a major problem and I need to take up what I have put down which is about 4 boxes worth and start over.

2. I started in the kitchen which is to the RIGHT up in the left corner, the entrance hall is a room on the left to the Left, my problem is I now have to go to the left from the kitchen, and the tiles are basically formed to go Left to RIGHT.. ¡K. SHOULD I start in the entrance all Left corner and then hope the tiles meet in the correct

Similar to this floor plan

The Bath and Bedroom would be MY ENTRANCE HALL
NO Study, The Living/dining would be the area where I started.. top left corner.

I hope this helps¡K. Please HELP.. I need suggestions.

I am thinking of trashing my 3 hrs of work and trying to salvage what I can and start over¡K ¼

Here is a link that might be useful:

    Bookmark   August 9, 2010 at 11:00AM
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well thanks for the non response.... I went ahead and used a hair dryer and pulled up the tiles and started over. I am glad I did. Would have bothered me for a long time. I did this after consulting with Allure and visiting my local Home depot. Using a hair Dryer is the trick. Allure said when they go in to repair tiles they always use a hair dryer to heat the glue and putll up the tiles.

    Bookmark   August 10, 2010 at 7:33AM
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Thanks for letting us know your experience. I am thinking of using Allure in my basement apartment so everyone's experience is a BIG help in case I run into any similar problems. Sorry nobody was able to help you here :(

    Bookmark   August 11, 2010 at 3:41PM
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    Bookmark   December 6, 2010 at 3:29PM
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I was going to install top of the line Konnecto in Beech but did quite a bit of research before ordering. The first problem was the possibility of dog pee. IMO pee will destroy the glue at the seams so I decided to go with a Armstrong's best sheet vinyl. Definitely not as nice but I had to make a tradeoff.

Secondly, I Googled and found floor forums in which professionals were having problems with the glue tabs not holding due to defective product or wrong temperature or improper installation techniques. The solution per Konnecto was crazy glue.

If it were not for possible pet damage I would have still gone with the Konnecto Beech and tolerated future repairs using crazy glue as there is nothing nicer than Konnecto's best flooring besides real wood.

    Bookmark   December 6, 2010 at 8:27PM
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Some of us do not come to the forum daily...or even weekly. Sorry you didn't get the timely response you were hoping for. We just laid another 140 square feet of Allure... in a basement bedroom. It went down like a dream. It's been down since before Thanksgiving and so far so good. Original (laundry room) floor has been down 3+ years...and looks like it did the day we put it down.

I paid for a more expensive color this time--the Honey Maple. I am pleased with the results:

At $1.99/sq I'm not expecting it to be a floor for the ages...but it should do until I can afford what I wanted. I just wish we'd replaced the baseboard heater BEFORE we did the flooring. DH didn't want to mess with it. Argh. Luckily, with the furniture back in the room it's not quite as egregiously ugly:

(I still think we need to put in a new heater. A white one.)

    Bookmark   December 7, 2010 at 1:35PM
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A former floor installer working at Home Depot told me that there is a special way to lay the vinyle plank laterally to one another that prevents the seams from rising and becoming visible. He indicated that you need to always force the planking laterally together with pressure before pressing the planking to the floor. In other words tilt the plank and then force it laterally into an ajoining one.If a mistake is made he said a hair dryer could be used to pull a plank to repositionin it. I'd advise anyone who is doing this job for the first time to get some professional pointers first because it sounds like the first time DIY folks may not be happy with their seam results upon completion of the floor.

    Bookmark   December 9, 2010 at 11:13PM
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The instructions specifically tell you to do it as the HD guy did. Perhaps that is why I had such good results! It's been down since the Sunday before Thanksgiving and nothing has shifted/lifted. I think it would have by now.

    Bookmark   December 11, 2010 at 9:06AM
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    Bookmark   January 5, 2011 at 4:00PM
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I am also planning on putting the African Darkwood in my bedroom. I would love to see pics of your finished floor Frank. Thanks.

    Bookmark   January 7, 2011 at 12:49PM
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We are considering using Allure in our kitchen. After searching for reviews on the product, I came across a few customers that told of problems with "off-gassing" after installation, and the side affects they had experienced. One poster even mentioned health issues her dogs were having since she installed the flooring. Have any of you experienced this, or are these isolated cases?

    Bookmark   January 9, 2011 at 7:51PM
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We noticed no significant off-gassing. Of course...I'm not certain I'd have noticed over the smell of the latex paint...

    Bookmark   January 11, 2011 at 6:40PM
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I installed 22 cases of special order Brazilan Cherry Allure 2yrs ago.
We left the flooring in the basement for 2 weeks prior to DIY installation.
we left 1/8 spacing on all four walls and have yet to put the molding back on due to continued problems with seams lifting!!! Love the color of the floor and the ease of cleanup but had to contact HD about the problems. We tried re-activating the glue with a hairdryer as suggested with no lasting results.
We rented a roller twice- once during install and then again as suggested with no lasting results.The area it is installed is in my dry basement on concrete floor that is finished and heated and/or air conditioned in summer.
HELP!!! Very disappointed with long term results of seams lifting ete.
I am in the process of dealing with Hofsta int'l to get some satisfaction because of defective product.The warranty says 25years and I am praying they honor this product after spending over $1000.00. Sent them "lovely" color photos and all. Will keep everyone posted.

    Bookmark   February 8, 2011 at 10:24PM
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I wonder why we have had NO trouble with lifting seams...when others have had such problems? Things are still looking great in my two's all very strange.

    Bookmark   February 9, 2011 at 6:45PM
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My daughter and I installed Allure in her kitchen a few years back. It took about a day for a 12x12 area. It still looks like new, wears like iron, and is easy to keep clean.

We're using the bamboo style in her main bathroom next.

To transition to carpeting, go to the flooring department at HD and ASK for the trim strip. We'll use heavy duty double stick tape along the bathtub, and put a bead of silicone caulk on the edge. Unless the instructions contraindicate it, of course. READ AND FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS.

MAKE SURE YOU LET THE PRODUCT ACCLIMATE to your room's temperature and humidity level before you install it. That's true for ANY flooring materials. Rush it, and you'll be sorry!

    Bookmark   February 13, 2011 at 4:06PM
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Hello all, fond this link when looking for answers. Installed this flooring in playroom about six months ago. Was very careful since we know once its stuck its stuck. We did a goos job. Now we are moving on the the adjoining room. Moved all furniture into finished room AND the damn foot of the couch created a huge 4 ft long gouge in the flooring! We are freking out. The company says there is a repair putty but not sure if it will work. Has anyone used this?

    Bookmark   February 15, 2011 at 12:37PM
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You can cut the 4ft gouged planks out of the Allure flooring and replace with new planks. Instructions on how to do this are in a PDF file. You can find online in a google search.

I have a copy on this hard drive. My first post here so I'm not sure what is acceptable here yet.

    Bookmark   February 17, 2011 at 11:59PM
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We put the vinyl floating floor down 2 years ago. Was really satisfied with it the first year but now it has started seperating @ the seams in several places. Contacted Traffic Master & was told we could fill in the spaces with something called minwax latex grout. We have looked everywhere for this stuff, even the internet & there just doesn't seem to be such a thing. Has anyone else used this & if so where did you find it? Also, has anyone else had this problem & what did you do to fix it? Thanks, Shirley

    Bookmark   February 19, 2011 at 2:28PM
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Are the seams lifting or actually spreading apart ??
Lifting seems to be a product issue.
Spreading seems to be an installation issue.

If the item was installed correctly they should honer the warranty .
If your willing to do a patch job
let them send you the material needed to fix it.

    Bookmark   February 19, 2011 at 5:55PM
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I put in my dinning room, it looks great and was easy to install. I have one question that I haven't seen posted; I have Oak hardwood in the living room. What can be done to the edge of the allure plank where it goes across the enty from the living room to the dinning room? I don;t want to put a high tranistion strip across because it's only about 1/8 inch higher,

    Bookmark   February 21, 2011 at 4:16PM
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We put this product down in our basement last February over the cement floor. We had previous floods and had a French drain installed so decided to use this floor over the newly drier basement floor. The floor looks great but it is lifting at the part that sticks to itself, and its all over. The glue doesn't seem to be very good. It is obvious and we spent $1600 for the product. I have notified Home Depot, as their sales staff recommended this floor. No answer yet, but a friend used this floor and the same thing happened and he got his money back!!

    Bookmark   June 16, 2011 at 6:12PM
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I too am confused why some people have so much trouble with lifting and others (including me) don't.

I installed it in our bathroom 3-4 years ago. I did not use a roller, just pressed it down well.

I have no lifting and the only gaps were due to my error.

We have installed it in several bathrooms, and never had any problems. I am going to install in a kitchen next month.

I did find the 6"x36" were easier to install then the bigger ones.

    Bookmark   June 17, 2011 at 7:00PM
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We put down 3 bedroom in the cherry color allure. Had a few seams pop a day after laying it, pushed um down, and haven't had an issue since. We have 3 kids, and 2 big bulldogs, and its holding up great! In the master it sits over the concrete foundation. The kids room it covers an old vinyl tile. We removed carpet from all the spaces it is in, had had to fill in all the holes with leveler, make sure you have a smooth clean area when laying down.


Daughters room

Babys room

    Bookmark   June 28, 2011 at 12:43PM
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I would like to know how the Allure flooring planks are supposed to be laid down. Is each row supposed to be staggered?

If so, how far in? Should I start the new row half way down the first plank on the first row and continue doing the same on the following planks?

Although I'm a DYI type, I've never done this sort of thing before, and no one explains this part of the project.

Any details would be very much appreciated!

    Bookmark   December 4, 2011 at 2:08PM
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Cut 1/3rd off the first plank of the second row, and 2/3rd's off the next row. Then go back to a full piece.

    Bookmark   December 4, 2011 at 7:49PM
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I have the TrafficMaster vinyl planks in our living room, hallway and kitchen. We love it and plan to put some in our family room. We've had it for three years and it has been amazing. Still looks good. The problem is that we are removing a bookcase. We had the flooring stop at the point where the bookcase was located, installing the flooring around it. How do I patch in the vinyl planks so they blend with the rest of the floor? I've read a little about people using a hairdryer to unstick the planks. Would anyone know about a procedure that would enable patching?
Any help would be much appreciated.

    Bookmark   September 18, 2012 at 5:04AM
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I found the answer to my question. The actual instructions are from the manufacturer. Here is a link:

    Bookmark   September 18, 2012 at 5:19AM
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I installed Allure tiles in my living room about 3 years ago. I thought it was super easy. I put it over a new subfloor I'd had to put down (we flooded). Well, 4 years later we flooded again - Isaac. I had to pull up the laminate, and the adhesive tiles in the kitchen. I have not pulled up the Allure; I'm not sure I'm going to. After the flood, I cleaned it and it looks just fine, right next to the new Allure I put in the kitchen to match it. the only problem is now some of the seams are coming up, and they have gotten dirt in them. The subfloor dried just great under the floating vinyl floor. Just adding my experience in.

    Bookmark   October 9, 2012 at 2:00AM
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Don't know what other people are experiencing with the Trafficmaster floor tiles but I'm very satisifed with the product. You can install it/float it right over top the existing vinyl floor as I did.The original vinyl flooring in the kitchen was shot but i did not want to tear it all up and looked for alternatives and found this product. I watched a few youtube videos on installing the flooring and followed the advice about laying it carefully. I used a 4" Caster wheel available at Home Depot to apply strong pressure and roll the joints with and it worked great and after the job was finished, I returned the caster wheel for my money back. It seems wise to install the flooring at the median temperature that the floor will be most of its life to reduce any gaps from expansion, contraction, etc. and leave a tiny gap around the edges of the walls and counter bases so it can breath a bit. I left about a 1/8" gap. You can cover that gap with something like shoe molding.
I installed the 12" x 36" Cyprus tiles for a total of about 250 dollars. i have lived with it for over a year now and I love it. Clean it with a wet rag or damp mop. If you get right down on the floor and inspect it all VERY closely you may find a few gaps between some tiles but they aren't even large enough to stick a credit card into.I have not had any lifting in ANY location. I have shown the floor to many folks and they like it a lot and others plan to try it in their homes.I do not know how it will perform on a cold concrete floor but it has performed beautifully in my kitchen.

    Bookmark   May 3, 2013 at 10:42PM
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    Bookmark   May 9, 2013 at 8:39AM
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My experience with Allure was very good. I installed in a basement, and although several people have recommended against a basement install, mine has worked well in spite of what is generally a somewhat damp environment. Installers must follow the instructions and install at room temperature and apply pressure to the seams as you install. I installed some planks under raised cabinets and had some seam adhesion failures there because there was no way to adequately use pressure on the seams. I will repair those seams by resealing with contact cement and using bricks for pressure while the cement cures.

    Bookmark   July 28, 2013 at 1:40PM
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