'Designer's Image' vinyl tile at Menard's?

lrowlsJune 1, 2007

Does anyone have information on this brand of peel-n-stick vinyl tile? I am prepping my home for sale and want to install new vinyl in my kitchen/entryway. Menard's carries three levels of this brand: Silver, Gold & Platinum. I have one of the Platimum tiles selected ($1.59 sqft). It is .125" thick, with beveled edges and an embossed, stone-like surface. But I know nothing of the brand and can't find anything on the Web. I have a feeling it may be made for Menards by one of the bigger manufacturers? Any information would be appreciated. Thank you.

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I'm putting the Designer's Image Platinum down tomorrow. I went with it because my brother has it in a new family room addition. He said it went fast and easy. He grouted his grout line, he said that took the most time. It's nice but not necessary...so I'm going without to start with and wait a few months.

    Bookmark   June 13, 2007 at 10:31PM
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How did your install go? Did you use adhesive in addition to the sticky tile? I've read in other posts this helps with positioning the tile. I've picked out a Platinum tile with beveled simulated grout lines along two edges of each tile. We bought a box and laid them out and it looks really good.

    Bookmark   June 28, 2007 at 1:57PM
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Installation of the tile is complete and I have to say, it looks awesome! We chose Designer's Image Platinum Series Parchment Stone. We laid it directly over a well-bonded sheet vinyl on a concrete slab. The installation went pretty smooth. We didn't use any additional adhesive or primers... just peeled and stuck.

This tile is so thick and flexible, we were able to pull up tiles as necessary and reposition them. We cut the vinyl with shears except where intricate cuts were required, which were cut using a utility knife.

We haven't decided if we will apply the optional grout. I really like the recessed look of the artificial grout lines, but they feel funny under bare feet and grouting would help fill in the few microscopic spaces and give it a more realistic look and feel.

If anyone is considering purchasing this tile, I would recommend it.

    Bookmark   July 6, 2007 at 11:07AM
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lrowls - We are considering installing this product. Now that you have had it for a few months, do you still like it?

Does anyone else have any experience with it? I tried to research it on the internet but could not find anything. I assume Designer's Image may be Menard's name, and the actual product is called something else.

    Bookmark   September 25, 2007 at 7:38AM
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I just finished installing the "L grout line" Platinum series Menard's tile in a couple of our basement rooms as well. I like it. I will say, however, we have some NAFCO Better Living VCT's in other rooms of our house and would say that the Better Living tiles are a bit nicer. I would use the Menard's tiles again, but if NAFCO was as readily available, I'd give them consideration.

    Bookmark   September 25, 2007 at 11:05AM
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Tiles great. Had bad time with grout. Gave up on grout from Menards. Have new grout recommended by "sales rep". Will try it after return from vacation. I will post results on my return.

    Bookmark   October 15, 2007 at 3:48PM
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What kind of grout did Menard's suggest, and what kind are you going to try now? We just put this down, but haven't tried the grout yet.

    Bookmark   October 15, 2007 at 11:00PM
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I just finished grouting my Platinum tiles with a product called AccuColor that Menards carries and had suggested. It's a flexible pre-mixed latex polymer grout that comes in several colors. They said not to use a standard cement-based grout as that would tend to crack because of the shallow grout lines. Grouting was quite a challenge because the lines are so shallow. It's easy to over-work and wipe out too much grout and then have to re-apply more. After all done, it does look nice though. Other than a grout haze that I'm having a heck of a time removing. Menards says to use plain vinegar water because the commercial grout haze removers could damage the tile surface. I haven't tackled that yet, but it's going to be a lot of scrubbing. If I was doing it again, I would make sure to remove as much grout residue as possible before it dries, being careful not to remove too much grout from the joints. I don't think I'm going to get the tiles back to their shiny original look, but they still look nice. I may look at putting a low gloss non-wax finish on the tiles when I'm done cleaning them. By the way, I asked Menards if I could have pre-sealed the tiles before grouting to make the haze clean-up easier. They said no, the pre-seal could cause problems with this type of grout adhearing to the tiles.

    Bookmark   October 17, 2007 at 3:31PM
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I also just got done installing the Platinum tiles. I tried using the AccuColor grout, but gave up. I am not sure how to get the grout to stay in the shallow lines, yet try to clean the tiles? Does anyone have any tips on how to use this grout. My tiles are already down and I really wanted the grouted look.

doug908, what other grout did the "sales rep" recommend?


    Bookmark   October 22, 2007 at 9:14AM
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I went on vacation just after the new grout arrived so I have yet to do the grouting as I'm still in Baton Rouge,LA. Vacation will be over next week and I hope to do the grouting then. The new grout is "Designer's Choice Finishing Touch".


    Bookmark   October 23, 2007 at 4:18PM
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I got frustrated with getting the grout to stay in the lines, so about half-way into the job, I started using blue painter's tape to tape off the grout lines on both sides and then used a small plastic putty knife to fill in the grout line. No grout gets on the tiles themselves. I would do about a 10 foot line at a time, then remove the tape on that line and then carefully shape the grout line with a damp sponge (rinsing frequently). Some grout will get on the tiles when you are shaping the line, but much less and much easier to wipe off and yet keep enough grout in the line. Don't want the line to dry too much before you shape it. After grouting a 10 foot line, I would remove the tape immediately and let it sit for only 5 minutes or so and then shape it and move on to the next line. I taped off all the North to South lines first, got them all done (lines shaped, tiles cleaned). Then let those lines dry completely (a few hours or even overnight). Then I went back and taped off all the East to West lines and did the same thing. This way, you can use one continuous line of tape. This was very time consuming and about $20 worth of tape, but the only way I could figure out to keep the grout in the lines.

    Bookmark   October 24, 2007 at 11:38AM
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The "Designer's Image" brand appears to be exclusive to Menards. All of Menards' 'Designer's Image" floor products appear to be made in China- which, given the recent toxic-materials scares, makes me somewhat wary of them (and also explains why they can't be found on the Web).

We have been considering the Designer's Image wood-look vinyl planks. The main competition for this seems to be Home Depot's Allure product (and no, I don't know where HD buys it). The two products differ in that the Allure sticks only to itself, not to the floor but Menard's vinyl plank product is the usual peel-and-stick.

Both vinyl-plank products offer a wood-look product that can be installed in areas that are too damp for laminate.

    Bookmark   November 26, 2007 at 1:34PM
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designers image platinum series and luxury Planks sold at menards are made with a virgin vinyl and limestone backing, not recycled metal like most companies. Thats why the backing of the tiles are white and not black. other companies use recycled metals that may contain lead in order to cut costs

    Bookmark   December 21, 2007 at 3:54PM
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Has anyone found brochures on this product. Three Menards -Milwaukee, Wisconsin based stores didn't offer anything except the product line itself. The sales personel weren't too knowledgable either. I have sheet vinyl installed now--wanted to go with stone or ceramic tiles, but our sub floor has too much movement. You need at least 2 x 10's in the basement for that weight.

I looked into Dura Ceramic by Congoleum, but was scared off by all the past problems involved with it. It also goes for around $4.69 a piece. I found Designer's Image at Menards for $1.39 a piece, but am leary of a self stick application. Reminds me of the old self stick carpeting of old. How old is this Designers Image product? Any problems with peeling,cracking or lifting up? It is very light weight and thin, so I assume you better have a smooth surface before installing. I was told you CANNOT install over old sheet vinyl. The floor might not adhere properly and the new Designers Image tiles will take on any indentation or pattern of the flooring underneath over time. Would love to hear from an experienced installer about this flooring. I need to finish my kitchen and hall project. Thanks

    Bookmark   January 28, 2008 at 3:21PM
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I wish I could help. We installed ours over concrete and are pretty happy. While the grout lines are not quite as nice as our NAFCO floors, I've come to like the Menard's stuff better. The porousness of the surface gives it a nicer feel, especially after applying the liquid floor wax. I have no idea how it would hold up applied to wood, though.

    Bookmark   January 29, 2008 at 10:30AM
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Professional installers, usually don't get to play with DIY marketed products, unless they have to bail out a homeowner, that is in way over their heads.

    Bookmark   January 30, 2008 at 2:02PM
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Thinking of it from an installation standpoint...

I really don't know how much the flex of your floor is a concern.

Adhesion, obviously, is the real concern. A $1 "peel and stick" product does not encourage someone to think that the item will adhere well to anything. So, the assumption is that you'll need to provide the best surface possible.

I'd strip the old vinyl and lauan out and then install new lauan. A big difference between a glue-down product and the peel and stick is that the surface will need to be "sealed" with an enamel floor sealer before installing the tiles. This is an easy task, as it's just rolling a thin liquid on like you're painting the floor.

    Bookmark   January 31, 2008 at 10:02AM
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I just installed this floor and used the recommended AccuColor grout. Grouting was a giant pain in the butt and I am having a really hard time removing the grout haze left behind on the tiles. Other than that, it looks really nice. Menards sells a recomended adhesive floor primer that may help with getting the tiles to stick over existing flooring. I used the primer over existing plywood and the floor is sticking nicely.

    Bookmark   February 12, 2008 at 11:45AM
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I like the tile but as several have stated grouting is a pain. Does anyone know what you can thin AccuColor grout with? The lable says water is a no no.

    Bookmark   February 16, 2008 at 6:55PM
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Installed the Menard's Designers Image Platnum Series Grout Line tile in bathroom this week-end. It does look great and went down pretty easily. But all the comments on the grouting were right on. It isn't going well! I cannot get the grout to stay put. Not deep enough I guess. And, I don't want to ruin the look of the tiles. I can see how the haze will build up. So, what else has worked out there? I will try the blue painters tape unless I hear of a better idea. What about the Designers Choice Finishing Touch? Did that work better? Thanks.

    Bookmark   March 2, 2008 at 4:55PM
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OH MY GOODNESS this grouting is a pain in the butt.

I just finished a 20 square foot bathroom floor and the tile and grout took 4 hours. I was planning to do another 200 s.f. (a kitchen and another bathroom) but I don't know if I can tolerate that much grouting. Hopefully we'll hear about the Finishing Touch grout soon!

I love the look of the finished product, grout haze and all. I just never thought that it would be more difficult than real ceramic.

    Bookmark   March 17, 2008 at 2:50AM
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I just put down Designer's Image tile in my bathroom. Here is what I learned:

Subfloor -- as several other posters have indicated it needs to be very smooth. I put it over embossed (and likely, no-wax vinyl). I was concerned b/c of what it said on the back of the box. I did some more research, and ended up covering it with embossing leveler to create a smooth surface and cover the no-wax surface. Im not sure IÂd recommend this route. The right answer is probably to remove the previous layer and/or to lay new plywood (either over existing surface or tear out and replace). I am a little concerned with it adhering over time, but it is low-cost so I thought it was worth a try.

Grout  I read the previous posts before I started the project. B/c of the difficulty in grouting the L-grout line tiles, I opted for the "rounded edge" version. These were in the same location at MenardÂs, with same patterns (slightly different name: Beige Earthstone instead of Beige Stone), but costs about $0.30 more per tile. This tile does not have the L-grout line, but has a rounded edge, more like real tiles. Anyway, it can be installed with or without spacers. On the display, they had grouted it without spacers, and I thought it was a little thin. I used spacers b/c I wanted a wider grout line (similar in size to the L-grout line). Because it does not have the beveled edge, you are grouting a deeper gap. I didnÂt find it too difficult to grout. I used the masking tape method described above, and did all of the short east-west segments in my bathroom first (I had never grouted before, so I wanted to start with the shorter, less-conspicuous lines first). I did about 40 linear feet in an hour. I wasnÂt working very fast, because I was learning as I did it. I imagine that when I go back to do the longer lines it will go faster.

In the store it isnÂt obvious what the differences in the tile are --- it took me about 20 minutes to figure it out. Look at the top right corner of the box, that is where it shows the difference.

    Bookmark   March 21, 2008 at 2:23PM
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I forgot to mention above --- I have a little grout haze (from what I can tell so far). But it is more liky due to my own sloppiness in not replacing the water in the bucket frequently enough. I used a 5 gal bucket, and it should have been replaced after about every 15-20 linear feet. Otherwise it gets cloudy, and I think that may be one of the reasons for the haze.

    Bookmark   March 21, 2008 at 2:26PM
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The tile is great but the grout is terrible! It dried way too fast and now we have dry grout "cemented" onto the tiles. Looks awful! Anyone know how to get this dry grout off the tiles. I am so discouraged! Please help!

    Bookmark   May 5, 2008 at 1:08PM
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I had similar results over the weekend using the Accu Color grout (coffee color on the brown grout line tiles). After 8 hours on my knees, I only had 80% of a 5X8 floor mostly grouted, but with thick haze.

The good news is the grout in the lines had hardened by the next day, so I could do some cleanup without messing it up. I started with Banish grout haze remover mixed with water and a scrubbie - improved, but lots of work. Since the worst places were next to the grout line, I was really careful at first, but learned reasonable scrubbing really didn't bother it. Changing to a stiff fingernail brush was better, but left the thicker patches. So I just tried it full strength with a rag, and that really worked (tested on scrap first!). I'd do a couple tiles, then wipe off with a damp rag. Some scraping with good strong thumbnails helped a lot, but a plastic putty knife would also help in the worst spots. A quick rinse with The shine is back!

I can see I'll have to go back and find any places I missed since it was hard to see well at night, but with a couple more passes it should look the way we hoped. I do still have to grout about 10 feet, but I think the tape and putty knife routine will work better. The grout in a few places is shallow and unever, but once some grout is down, a second layer sticks well, without washing out.

THANK YOU to all who contributed above, for sharing your struggles and hints - a great encouragement. I would NOT encourage anyone to tackle this project without reading thest posts FIRST, but do think we will love the results.

What finally worked for me was spreading the grout with a putty knife, then letting set for maybe 20 minutes. Then gentle smoothing with a sponge diagonally and let set maybe 20 minutes more and then smoothing the length of the line with the rounded edge of the barely-damp sponge to make the grout slightly concave. Since ANY water near the grout line thins it so it washes out, you're almost better to not work too much at clean up until the line starts to set. I suggest TWO buckets of water, one for grouting and one for cleanup. I was so concerned about the grout line, I used the same water without changing, and made cleanup harder then it should have been.

    Bookmark   May 6, 2008 at 11:57AM
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It's been awhile since the original post and since then HD and Lowes are now carrying a self stick groutable vinyl tile by Armstrong. I purchased a few tiles as a color trial but failed to get the name of the product. It is flexible but not very. It is difficult to bend. It looks very tile like and I believe with grout it will look like the real thing. I was happy to find this link regarding grouting problems. Another groutable vinyl tile product lowes carries also makes a stain resistent grout but unfortunately in only 2 colors...antique white and saddle gray which, based on my selection at hd, probably wont work unless I can add color. So I have a grout diliema at the present time. HD suggested using their regular sanded grout but with the characteristics of vinyl tile, and the lack of knowledge of store employees, I am hesitant. Also I checked the armstrong website and when I searched for groutable vinyl tiles it came up with nothing! Any further info on either the armstrong tiles or grout would be appreciated. Thx.

    Bookmark   June 6, 2008 at 7:09PM
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I'm in a similar situation to Carrie. Interested in the Armstrong groutable vinyl tile at Lowes, but not so sure about which grout to use. Anyone have any updates, or have used one of the Lowes/HD products vs. the Menard's brand?

BTW, I definitely wouldn't use regular sanded grout on these tiles, I would think it would be way too prone to cracking and gouging out.

    Bookmark   June 9, 2008 at 9:53AM
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I noticed several members had grout haze problems. Not to worry since I did also and got info from Menard's supplier, he said us windex and a 3M green scatch pad. Works great just be sure to wipe off quickly and rinse and dry it.After completly done Mop floor with clean water and a soft sponge mop. By the way I installed Designer's Image Platinum series with conture edge and grouted. Installed over 10 year old vinyl no wax peel and stick tile. No problems. Good Luck.

    Bookmark   June 19, 2008 at 3:51PM
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Has anyone tried the peel and stick tiles from Home Depot that can be grouted? I was told to use regular non-sanded grout, with small grout lines. Still afraid the grout will not stay or will crack. Has anyone used these Armstrong tiles yet? Grouting as hard as with Menard's?

    Bookmark   July 21, 2008 at 1:17PM
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Regarding grout (with the HD tiles), I read on another forum that sanded acrylic caulk is what you should use. Anyone try that?
Also, how well do the HD and Lowes stick? Has anyone had to use additional adhesive?
Finally, how well do these clean up with normal, everyday use?

    Bookmark   August 3, 2008 at 7:54AM
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I'm installing the HD groutable vinyl as we speak - it's going down nicely. I bought the sanded caulk but I was a little unsettled about using it. I went to Curtis Lumber and spoke to a mgr there and he said that caulk should never be used on a walking surface, and I'm going to heed his advice. I found a product called Flexgrout and it's got flexibility plus water resistance and claims to adhere to both ceramic and glass, so I'm assuming that it should adhere to vinyl with ease. I'll keep you posted to let you know how the install ends up!

    Bookmark   August 14, 2008 at 6:51PM
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The best grout I found was Mapei Premixed Grout. You can buy it at Menard's. The secret to using is to work small areas that you can clean up within a 30 min time. The next day if there is a haze windex should remove it. Make sure the area you are working is premoistened at the time of application and do a good clean up within 15 to 30 mins when firmed up. test a small area to get an idea how long it takes to firm. Do not let is set more than 30 mins. Make sure you use seperate waters for both operations.

    Bookmark   January 6, 2009 at 2:31PM
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Does anyone else have any problems with the corners of this tile peeling up? I don't mean the actual tile but the vinyl colored coating of the tile is peeling away from the tile. We layed this tile on a new sub floor in August. We did not use grout as we liked it as is. Within weeks the tiles started peeling. Now as I run my vaccum over it (without the agitator on just bare floor attachment) it completely peels a piece off of the tile. Anyone else have this same type of problem or did we just get a bad batch????????

    Bookmark   January 18, 2009 at 2:29PM
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Installed the Designers Image tiles over the weekend. We installed them over existing vinyl tiles using the adhesive primer that was recommended by Menards. I also sanded the floors with course grit paper prior to applying the primer (please note that your tiles may contain asbestos so if you are unsure....skip this step). Tile went down fairly easy as the primer provided for a pretty sticky surface.

They next step was grouting and what a pain that was. We applied the premixed grout as per the directions. The problem was getting the grout to stay in the shallow channels when you went to clean the grout off the surface of the tiles. No matter how gently you wiped the tiles you ended us pulling the grout right out of the joints. After several calls to the manufacturer and talking to an associate at Menards I devised a solution which yielded great results. They are as follows:

1. Forget about using a float and apply the Mapei premixed grout with a 2" putty knife.
2. Pack the grout into the joints with the putty knife in a diagonal fashion scraping as much excess off as possible.
3. Let the grout dry for 18-24 hours and do not worry about the grout you left on the surface of the tiles.
4. The next day make a mixture of 1 part ammonia to two parts water in a spray bottle. Also have on hand a bucket of clean water and a dish scrubbing sponge.
5. Spray the surface of the tiles with the ammonia mixture and wait 30-60 seconds. Then dip the scrubbing sponge in the water and begin scrubbing the surface of the tiles. The grout will come right up and you will be able to shape the surface of the joints.
6. After you have removed all of the excess grout rinse the tiles once again with the ammonia solution to remove any remaining haze.

Even though it was aggravating to have to scrub all of the tiles individually these steps produced a great result for us. Good luck with your project.

    Bookmark   July 22, 2009 at 10:24PM
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Last week I purchased the Designer's Image composite tile, Platinum Series, with the "L" grout line (SKU/Code 725-9212). I bought it for the vestibule and kitchen. I knew from the beginning that I'd be applying grout, and after getting the tiles down in the kitchen, the need for grouting was only further confirmed for me by the way they felt underfoot (the grout lines were not very comfortable to walk on in bare feet). I began grouting this morning and had hoped it would go quickly relative to the time necessary to lay the tiles. After a couple of tries via the manufacturer's instructions (Mapei premix grout) and hints I'd received at the time of purchse from one of the folks at Menard's, hope that the grouting would go quickly faded. As has been mentioned by others, the grout channels are not very deep, so sponging removes much of the grout. And I wasn't comfortable waiting too long before sponging because I felt the residue would prove difficult to remove, and use of fluids typically used to remove grout haze from ceramic could prove harmful to these composite tiles. So I decided to place masking tape on either side of a channel (e.g., a channel that runs from opposite walls of the room) and apply the grout with a metal putty knife (I've been adding light water sprays to get a smooth finish, as the grout seems a little dry). I then pull up the tape after 15-20 minutes. I've only done three north-to-south channels so far, and I'm done for today. I'll finish those channels tomorrow, and after they dry for a day or so, I'll do the east-to-west channels. Long process, but too much time and money has been invested to mess up now. So the frig, stove, dishwasher will have to sit in the living room for a few more days.

    Bookmark   March 26, 2010 at 7:31PM
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I'd like to know how everyone's floor is holding up. We're considering installing this and I've been reading reviews... I know not to install Congoleum... everyone said it chipped and the tiles started peeling.... Please tell me how you like your floor - The closest Menard's to me is 1.5 hrs away... I have HD and Lowe's by me..

I'd love to know how your floor is holding up. I understand that if you drop something there most likely will be a small indention, but tiles shouldn't peel and I was wondering if the HD or Lowe's brands do.


    Bookmark   April 3, 2010 at 11:05PM
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I just finished installing the "L grout line" Platinum series Menard's tile with the grout. Has anyone had these tiles in for a while with grout? I'm wondering about the grout and if it developes cracks after a year or so.

    Bookmark   April 19, 2010 at 12:09PM
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I worked for Menards in the flooring section. The most biggest complaint about putting the tile down is the grouting, but that is the most uneducated part about it. You want to use a stiff float(something like epoxy one). And when you are putting the grout in, its not like the ceramic tile cleaning. You want to do a light wash, basically to smooth your grout lines up and leave ALL the haze. Then you wait 24 hours to dry and come in with a non-scratch pad and Windex and it cleans right up. I'm actually currently doing the new series, its a 12x16 with rounded edges. It looks great so far! Hope this helps people out!!!

    Bookmark   May 9, 2010 at 3:39AM
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Has anyone installed the Designer's Image wood look planks? We are considering the "striped birch".

    Bookmark   August 7, 2010 at 2:56PM
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can I install this ile over floor heat system

    Bookmark   January 19, 2011 at 1:47PM
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Thank to all who have posted! I spent all day Saturday reading your posts and taking note of different advice. Then, over President's Day, I tackled the installation of the tile in my bathroom. Now that I completed the process, I would like to let you know how it went.

Materials used: Designer Images Self-Stick Vinyl Tile with L-Grout patterns. Mapai Premix Premium Vinyl Tile Grout.

Tools used: Paint scrapper, hammer, box knife, square ruler, painters tape, putty knife, kitchen shears

What was done: Removed old flooring. Installed tiles. Install grout.

Time: A full day's work for a small bathroom.
Roughly 3.5 hours to remove old flooring (really should have only been 2, read below); 2 hours to lay main part of tile (no cutting); 4 hours to lay intricate tiles requiring cutting; 3 hours taping; 1 hour grouting

The process/story & tips.

Remove old tile:

I had old vinyl tile in my bathroom and was told, while not ideal, that I could lay the tile over the tile IF there was only one layer of it. I was told that I could stack two layers, however, once you add a third it becomes difficult and the tile could slip. So, I went forward with my plan to install over and started prep-work. To my dismay while removing the trim, I discovered Linoleum underneath the old tile. So... I removed the old tiling before installation so I wouldn't have too many layers of old flooring.

Removing the old tiling what a pain in the butt. It was sticky, and by hour 2, my hands were cut, sore and blistering. I soon wised up and added a hammer to the equation to help save my hands. I used a paint scrapper (flat one with the hook) to get under the tile and pounded the end with the hammer. It slide perfectly along the bottom and quickly peeled the tile off. This speed up my process to being only and hour and a half.

Peel and stick new flooring:

Once completed, I started installing the new flooring. I laid the main part down first that didn't require any cutting. This was easy. You do just peel and stick. I didn't use a rolling pin to stick the tile (didn't have one), but I would recommend using one. I could tell I had a few spots that weren't sticking down right. Applying pressure did the trick. I loved the peel and sticks. It was fast, and if I didn't get it on just right, I could pull it up and restick it.

Cutting tile to install:

I was very nervous about cutting the tiles. I didn't think a box cutter would work. But to my surprise, it worked great! I used a Square ruler to help make straight cuts with the box knife. Once you make the line, apply pressure in the opposite direction of your cut, and the tile should snap cleanly into two pieces. For fine cuts, I used a needle nose pliers to snap the waste away because there wasn't enough of the tile to grab on to with my hands. I also was able to cut corners with a kitchen sheers.


When it came to grouting, I followed the advice of many on here and decided to use the "taping" concept to limit grout haze. WOW! It took a long time, but the outcome was well worth the effort. It took nearly four hours of taping for an hour of grouting, but we didn't have ANY cleanup or haze. We used extra wide painters tape, and for grout, we used the Mapai Premixed Premium Vinyl tile grout. It comes in an assortment of colors and is more flexible. Whatever you do when choosing grout, DO NOT GET CEMENT-BASED GROUT. Vinyl is flexible and tends to bend, thus would cause cement-based grout to break.

Overall experience? Well, it's only been a day, but the results are amazing. It looks like real ceramic tile in my bathroom and it looks as if we paid a fortune for it.

I am not sure how it will wear and tear, but I hope I have helped at least one person who has questions about this process as many of the former posts have helped me. Thanks everyone!

    Bookmark   February 22, 2011 at 3:38PM
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I am considering putting this flooring in entry way and kitchen. We live on a farm so dirt, mud, and sand can be a problem. How would this flooring stand up to this? What do you do to clean the floor?

    Bookmark   March 2, 2011 at 11:37AM
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I installed my floor tile last year. It has held up very well and looks like ceramic. lwebber22 gave excellent instructions. I checked this site and benefited by the experience the others had.

I laid down 1/2 in underlayment over my old tile and then painted the plywood with a primer for peel and stick tiles. It is real thin - like milk.(two coats) Dries just a little tacky. When you put those tiles on that, they are there to stay. Can't get them up without scraping them off. Then I laid the tiles, all of them. (Kitchen and 10 ft hall.)

Grouting was done in sections. I used painter tape & putty knife technique. First all lines going rt to left in a section. Dry overnight, then the up and down lines in that section. Staggered sections so we could get thru kitchen to bathroom and bedrooms. Later the clean up with windex and done... Took 3 - 4 days.
It was a PAIN while doing it but it turned out nice, and like Webber said, no chipped or cracked grout.(I'd do it again)

Hope this helped any people thinking about these tiles.

    Bookmark   June 6, 2011 at 8:40PM
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had the tile down for 4 days can put your finger underit and it comes

    Bookmark   September 10, 2011 at 4:51PM
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Just installed this tile in my kitchen. Looks great. Thanks to all of you for the advice. It made things so much easier. I only have one question. Has anyone used a grout sealer? I've done ceramic tiles and used sealers but this vinyl tile grout says not to. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

    Bookmark   January 8, 2012 at 9:01AM
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For everyone on this previous post, can you update me on the condition of the flooring?

Did you install this flooring?
Do you still have the flooring?

How is it holding up?

Any problems with adhesion or curling from the tiles?

We want to install a bunch of it (1500sq. ft) since we love the look.

They have Designers Image Tile, Plantinum Series Brown Travertine 16x16 tiles and we are testing it in one room and it seems fine.

We are going to install with no grout so much of the review problems we won't have.

Please advise and thanks in advance for any tips.

    Bookmark   July 18, 2012 at 3:55PM
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Not sure if this has changed since the OP but I just purchased a few boxes of the Designer's Image Platinum in Alabaster, round edge, and the tiles are clearly stamped "Armstrong" on the back.

    Bookmark   October 29, 2012 at 12:06AM
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We just installed platinum designers image tiles over the weekend in a 5x12 bathroom. I am so glad I read the notes in this forum. We installed over an existing 35 year old ceramic floor from the 70's. The first step was to mix and spread Menards self leveling compound to about 1/2" (dumped it on the floor once mixed and spread with a long handled roller). After 24 hours we prepped this floor with the Menards activator primer/ sealer. (two coats about 2hrs apart spread with a roller). After 12 hours we laid the self adhesive tile using less than 1/4" spacers. We rented a 100# roller from Menards ($10 )& rolled back & forth over the tile for about a half hour. We then grouted with the flexible grout recommended by Menards using a 3" putty knife & packing the grout into the joints in a diagonal fashion scraping of as much excess grout as possible. We let the grout dry 18 hours as recommended by sabrams post on this forum from July 22nd 2009( a very helpful post to read). We tried not to worry about the grout left on the tiles!
The next day I used:
2 pails of warm water (changed frequently)
2 sponges with the 3m scratchers on one side
1 large sponge for finishing
1 spray bottle of windex with ammonia (It will not work if no Ammonia)!
I sprayed about six tiles at a time with the windex & let the windex sit for 30 to 60 seconds
Next I wiped the the excess grout with a dry paper towel so I wouldn't have to change the water so often
Next I cleaned the surface of the tiles where the grout was with scratchy side of the sponge.
I wiped the excess grout on the surface of the tile one more time.
The last time I went over it with the large sponge damped with warm water & wrung fairly dry.
When I was finished getting most of the grout off the floor I went over the floor two times with the large sponge as above.
I love the finished product and still amazed how the Windex removed that grout so easily! This is not a difficult process if done correctly!
Thanks for all of your posts. This would not have gone as smoothly for us if I had not read them all!

    Bookmark   February 4, 2013 at 11:05PM
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I am going to be putting this flooring in and was wondering if anyone had tried it without grouting it and how did it look? Also, how long after installing it can you start walking on it and using it in a high traffic area?

    Bookmark   March 25, 2014 at 11:45AM
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We installed approximately 1500 sq ft of this tile in the summer of 2012. We installed it with NO grout, just tight fit the edges together. Of course, we followed all the prep recommendations, which took about as long as the actual install, but believe this is the reason why they are looking great and not having any issues what so ever. We entertain a lot and have lots of little kids that visit and there isn't one sign of any wear, scratches, or anything. We expected it not to be great for the price, but are VERY HAPPY with the product! Definitely recommend it!

    Bookmark   March 25, 2014 at 12:58PM
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