Craftsman Garage Opener Clicks only and LED blinking 5 times

nosleepDecember 29, 2008

My 1/2 HP Model 139.53641SRT opener clicks to all my remotes open button (I have no wall mount) but the motor does not move. The LED next to the green "Learn" button blinks 5 times and pauses for 2 seconds continuously after I hit the open/close button on my 3 button remote model 139.53779 (LED does not blink right after I re-plug in AC power). http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/garages/msg012015459574.html indicates a 5 blinks is a diagnostic for ""RPM sensor or motor overload".

I verified obstruction sensor works and aligned. I also opened the opener housing and verified the motor gear to be fine. Is there anyway to checkout the motor and the RPM sensor?

(Right before the opener stops working, I open the garage door and accidentally hit a button on the 3 button remote that I normally don't use to close it about 5 minutes later and the opener started to act that way. I tried holding the same button for 2 seconds just in case that is the "locked" button for vacation and the opener still behaves the same. I wanted to make sure that I did not accidentally lock up the opener by hitting a wrong button on my remote and end up replacing the opener if someone out there can tell me how to unlock it. I have no owner manual because the opener and remotes came with the house.)

Thanks for your help.

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don_1_2006

It sounds like your trolley (the thing the door is connected to) is jammed against the bolt just in front of the motor housing. If so, remove that bolt and run the door until it closes. While closed, locate the 'up limit' control on the side of the motor housing and turn this 2 or 3 turns in the opposite direction of the arrow printed on the cover. Be sure to replace the bolt.

    Bookmark   December 29, 2008 at 10:13AM
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nosleep

Thanks Don_1_2006.

The trolley is not jammed against the bolt. It stays (not moving) a few inches before the bolt and a relay just clicks when I hit the open/close remote button and the trolley does not move with the door disengaged from the trolley.

I took sometime to review the posting and there was one "Garage opener relay clicks but does not close", Posted by elguero77 on Tue, Nov 18, 08 at 10:05 that is similar to my symptom. I am going to try out his troubleshooting to determine if the motor is good (manually move the trolley toward the closing position and see if the motor moves the trolley back to the current position) and post back.

The motor looks perfect without anything loose or burnt with the opener housing opened. The logic board looks tight without removing the board and all connections were tight.

    Bookmark   December 29, 2008 at 2:58PM
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nosleep

To verify the motor is good. I try to rotate the gear manually to back the trolley a few inches. I could not move the gear. It was stopped at the upper limit so I make the upper limit higher to allow the motor to move the trolley in the upper range. I plug back in the power and click the open/close remote button and same as before: clicks, LED starts to blink, motor does not turn.

I put a digital meter to measure the AC on the relay of the motor side (a white wire and a black wire). As soon as I plug back in the power, it is reading 120 V AC. Hitting the open/close remote button does not change the reading. That means the motor has power regardless of me hitting the open/close button?! I am puzzled.

The only other wire to the motor is a red wire which connects to the logic board connector. Anyone know anything about that wire.

I don't know what conclusion to draw. Bad motor or bad logic board. Anyone has a good suggestion to tell which is which? (Don?) Thanks.

    Bookmark   January 1, 2009 at 1:55PM
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zermatt

My 1/2 HP Craftsman garage door opener stopped working the other day and gave me the "led blinking 5 times" code. As I was working on it, I also noticed that the motor would turn in the door open direction (up), but not the door close direction (down). After researching the problem a bit, I located a cold (loose) solder joint on the logic board that seemed to be the culprit.

The solder joint is behind/near the transformer on the back of the unit, and it appears to be where a relay attaches. This particular connection also seems to trace to the multi-wire plug that everything attaches to - and more specifically, the red lead that goes to the motor-start capacitor.

After removing the two screws that hold the logic board to the frame, I was able to swing the board around for better access. I cleaned off the questionable solder joint and re-soldered it. Voila, problem solved! The door goes up and down now just like it always has!

Here is a link that might be useful:

This post was edited by zermatt on Wed, Aug 27, 14 at 19:49

    Bookmark   June 21, 2013 at 9:23PM
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Trevdo

@zermatt - Just created this account to tell you, You just saved me the trouble of buying and installing a new opener. Your beautiful and I love you, Thank You.

    Bookmark   August 30, 2013 at 3:21PM
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zermatt

@Trevdo - I'm glad that I could help. I created this account just to reply to this thread because I was unable to find any good solutions elsewhere on the 'net. I hope that other people can benefit as well!

On a related note, now about 14 months later, I've got a 5 blink LED code again. I suspect there may be another bad solder joint, so I'll be pulling it apart again this weekend to inspect. Hopefully it's another simple fix!

    Bookmark   August 27, 2014 at 7:56PM
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WeinerWhiner

First I'd like to praise zermatt for his great help and the terrific picture.

Next I'd like to add a few details that I discovered while doing this repair.

First, to test the motor, I slipped small nails into the socket that correspond to the red, blue and white wires. Using a cord with a switch and alligator clips, I supplied juice to raise (red) and lower (blue) the door. It worked in both directions so the suspicion fell heavily on the logic board.

With a continuity tester, I checked the current going from end to end on each ribbon. Sure enough, the open was in the exact same place as in the picture. But only by squinting REAL HARD was it possible to see the space under a ring of solder. A dab of flux and a touch with the soldering iron was all it took to restore continuity through the butt ugliest of solders.

Hope this helps.

This post was edited by WeinerWhiner on Sat, Oct 25, 14 at 21:12

    Bookmark   October 25, 2014 at 9:00PM
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graciasgracias

@zermatt - I also just created this account just to thank you. Your solution solved my problem. I had this LiftMaster garage opener for 20 years. The problem occurred a few days ago during one of the coldest days in this region. It was 12F (-11C) around sunset when I tried to operate the door. The door opened but then refused to close. I had to close it manually. After using your solution to fix this problem, I had a suspicion that somehow this might have to do with over current in the circuit. The fact that this is the first time this happened to my garage door opener and it happened on a day that is probably the coldest in this region might suggest that the motor was working extra hard. In addition, in recent months I started using a 100W bulb on the unit, which is more than the 75W rating. This might have contributed to the overall current, though I am not sure. Maybe this extra info will help you determine the underlying cause for the burned solder joint.

In any event, I want to thank you again.

    Bookmark   February 18, 2015 at 8:50PM
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glock13

Add my Craftsman to the list. 16 years old just stopped working. Had a bad solder joint. Interesting that it was one over from the one on the picture. Thank you so much for this most excellent information....just saved me cash! Shame on Sears for making a device with what appears to be a planned failure.

    Bookmark   March 13, 2015 at 12:40PM
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