Craftsman 1/2 HP Garage Door Opener SIMILAR Problem

wxyzFebruary 6, 2007

Originally posted in Tool Shed Forum:

Craftsman 1/2 HP Garage Door Opener SIMILAR Problem

Posted by wxyz (My Page) on Sat, Feb 3, 07 at 18:36

Just replaced sprocket assembly (including worm/gear drive)on old Craftsman 1/2 hp opener (no sensors). After reassemby, opener worked fine going up, but did not go back down (only clicked). Checked limit switches, disconnected door, and manually reset limit to lower position. Again, opener rotated counterclockwise to upper limit and stopped. When pressing again, just get click. I had replaced the worm/gear in the past and did not have this problem. Prior to sprocket breaking off, opener worked well. Any ideas??? Could it be the logic board, limit switches??? What controls the 'sending' message to the motor to reverse its direction??? Don't want to invest a lot in this old opener, however did just pay for the sprocket kit. Any sugestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Follow-Up Postings:

RE: Craftsman 1/2 HP Garage Door Opener SIMILAR Problem

Posted by don_1_2006 (My Page) on Mon, Feb 5, 07 at 15:06

Sounds like your 'up limit' is not adjusted correctly. If this is true the logic board never gets the message to reverse and the motor keeps trying to open the door even though it is open. Take a good look at the limit switch assembly and you should be able to tell.


RE: Craftsman 1/2 HP Garage Door Opener SIMILAR Problem

Posted by wxyz (My Page) on Tue, Feb 6, 07 at 12:47

Thanks for the suggestion. Visually, the limit switches look alright. When I manually place the 'locator' to the bottom (resting up against the lower limit) and then activate the opener, the 'locator' travels up the center screw until it makes contact with the upper limit and shuts off. When I activate it again, only get a 'click'. Specifically, what else should I be looking for on the limit switches? It makes sense that the logic board may not be getting the correct signal. Once again, thanks for your assistance!

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Make sure you did not knock a wire off of the start capacitor.

    Bookmark   February 10, 2007 at 1:21PM
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rechecked start capacitor - all wires still connected. looked at circuit board and all looks ok. placed limit switch from this unit on another identical unit and it appears to send the reverse command. reset the opener to the 'down' position by manually backing the limit switch assembly down to the bottom stop. disconnected chain. once again, when wall button pressed, operator ran to top position (door would be in up position if connected) and shut off. when press wall button again, light comes on and unit just clicks. rechecked interruptor cup and it appears to be in proper position (had forgotten it early on in the process). any other ideas? thanks!

    Bookmark   February 10, 2007 at 1:40PM
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I would have to say you have a bad logic board. If everything else is checking out ok and is hooked up fine. I actually ran into this problem the other day, however I knocked a wire off the start capacitor and did not know it. You might try putting a start capacitor in and see what happens, it's a long shot, but the only other option is going to be replacing the opener for that circuit board is probably not available anymore.

    Bookmark   February 11, 2007 at 10:06AM
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I am having this exact same problem. Only, this is the first I have had experience with openers. I have done the troubleshooting portion of manually setting the locator to the bottom (closed) position, then opening the door to the same result. However, I don't know what/where the start capacitor is and how to locate the wiring. What color wire should I be looking for and where is the cap.? What else can I check to troubleshoot, such as the limit switch?

Thanks in advance,


    Bookmark   March 14, 2007 at 1:51AM
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Instead of saying you have the exact same problem why don't you list the symptoms. That would help.

    Bookmark   March 14, 2007 at 12:08PM
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Well, rather than a repair, I just moved into our house (3 years old) and the third car opener has never worked right. It initially would go up, but not down, and didn't stop at the top, it just jammed and vibrated against the opener unit. I opened it up to find that somehow the open adjustment stop was bent and the locator just went right by it and kept trying to go up. I righted that situation by bending the stop back and setting the open travel adjustment properly. So now, it will open, and when hitting the stop, does stop. But, it will not close. I can manually close it by removing the belt from the motor and getting everything set at the bottom, then push the button and it opens again and stops properly at the top. Holding down the button does no good, and I can confirm the photo sensors are aligned properly because if I block them, the opener lights come on. It just seems to me that whatever switch exists to tell the opener it is at the top and needs to reverse direction has failed, but I have no idea what that is or how to fix it. I did find the start capacitor you guys were talking about (big blue guy, 4 wires, two red, two blue). My terminals are top and bottom, with connections on each side of it. The reds are on the bottom, and the blues on top. My opener is model 139.53954. Thanks for helping.

    Bookmark   March 14, 2007 at 2:31PM
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Correction, my model is 139.53964. Thanks again for any help.

    Bookmark   March 16, 2007 at 7:48PM
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If is stopping properly now and will not do anything when you try to close it, I would imagine the problem would be in the logic board. If I were there I would visually inspect all the wiring and make sure the pin connector is plugged in tight to the logic board, then I would try a logic board and see what happens. Sorry, this is not a problem I frequently deal with.

    Bookmark   March 17, 2007 at 7:54PM
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That's alright. I appreciate the help. I think I will try taking the logic board from the other door and plugging it into this one to see if that is the issue (before spending the $80 for a new one).

    Bookmark   March 18, 2007 at 6:38PM
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The problem I seem to be having is that the door operates normally under no-load conditions but as soon as I attach the door, the door will only go down a couple inches and stop. The light will blink as though the door had been stopped by an obstruction. I adjusted the door travel strength to the maximum setting with no change.
Does the door travel strength have anything to do with the motor capacitor ( the capacitor delivers more power to the motor as required )or has the PC board failed?

    Bookmark   March 19, 2007 at 8:35PM
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My garage door opener hums but works find. I just can not stop it from humming

    Bookmark   March 20, 2007 at 8:29AM
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