Harman Accentra Pellet Stove Problems

fairctDecember 13, 2005

We purchased a Harman Accentra Pellet Stove last Oct 2004 from a dealer in Westport, CT. The dealer installed it in our family/great room which is approx 15 ft x 35 ft with a 15 foot cathedral ceiling.

After only a few weeks of use it started to drop pellets but not ignite. Dealer replaced the main motor (I really don't know what part but it was sort of the main part from what I recall.) After that it ran fine.

This season, however, it has been shutting off on us during the night and it is difficult to get started again in the morning. This has happened about ten times.

Dealer suggested we clean behind the back wall of the interior chamber. (My husband had cleaned the unit in the fall by following the instructions provided but hadn't cleaned behind that plate because there were no instructions for that.)

The dealer emailed instructions for that particular task and my husband did it this past Sunday.

Unfortunately the stove is still malfunctioning. We noticed that after a while of running fine the status light starts to blink and eventually the stove shuts itself down unless we turn it off and on again. Obviously this must be what is happening during the night.

This morning we woke up to, once again, the stove being off. It was 12 degrees outside and 35 degrees in our family room. Now the stove doesn't work at all. It will power on and all the lights are lit. But even tho the feeder light is on no pellets drop. The auger does not turn. It has been making a very loud clunking sound these past few weeks and I guess now it's just given up.

The dealer said when the status light blinks 5 times in succession, which ours is doing, it doesn't look good and they need to come out to service it. I left a message that the light was blinking like that but never heard back from him by end of day.

So I have some questions for anyone who can help:

(1) Do you know what the problem might be with this stove and should it be happening to such a 'new' stove (and can it be fixed??)

(2) Should this stove be able to heat the room I described above? It seems the end of the room where the stove is not located is always chilly and unfortunately that is where our dining room table is. The dealer sort of suggested that we would probably save on oil since the stove would help heat the rest of the house, but we have yet to see it be so efficient. Do you think maybe it just hasn't been functioning properly all along?

Sorry for such a long post. This is the main room that our kids and us use every day from breakfast til bedtime and its very frustrating not being able to even go into it due to the cold.

Thanks for any help you can offer.

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What a miserable and extremely frustrating situation you have there!

It sounds to me like a serious mechanical problem with either the auger drive motor, chain, or the possibility that the auger is jambing up and causing the damage to the motor. The clunking sound is a bad sign, and leads me to think that there is a jamb up that then causes the chain to skip a tooth on the sprocket. For that to happen there will have to be some serious flexing of the frame for the chain to skip. That flexing could in turn distort the feed box and cause the slider to bind. A jammed auger or a sticky hatch would stop the pellets from dropping into the auger. If it were just a bad motor, there wouldn't be clunking. It would just stop.

Five blinks actually isn't so bad in and of itself. You can get that if it runs out of fuel. Basically, if the ignitor is working, you'll get the 5 blink if there aren't pellets in the burn pot. So 5 blinks is either an ignitor problem or a feed/supply problem. It sounds to me like you have the feed problem.

They told you to clean the dust out of the ignitor box because that can cause the ignition problem. The dust plugs things up. When cleaning that out you should make sure the little holes in the burn pot are clear as well. To tell you to do this doesn't take into account the other symptoms. It's more of a canned answer - probably developed after years of service calls where all that needed to be done was clean the ignitor, but it doesn't fix everything.

I would say they need to get their keesters out to your house and fix or replace your stove. You didn't pay all that money to deal with this kind of thing. Harman is known to do that, as you'll see from other posts in this forum as well as things I heard from my installer.

One other thing is that I was told not to burn soft wood pellets like pine. Apparently the pitch can gum up the works all the way back to the hopper and cause the auger to freeze. This is often what caused the stove replacements my installer was talking about. Don't know if that's what you're burning.

Hope this helps.

    Bookmark   December 13, 2005 at 7:03PM
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Your stove should still be under warranty. Harmon has a five year warranty. Call the dealer and tell them to get out of the office and into your family room !

    Bookmark   December 13, 2005 at 7:33PM
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we encountered a similar problem with our accentra stove. turned out to be the pellets. ran fine but occassionally would just shut down and the status light would blink. Can you push down thru the pellets after resetting the stove and get the pellets to fall into the shoot. This was where our problem was. We were using vulcan pellets and switched to another brand and have run trouble free since. I did buy another ton of vulcan pellets this year and no trouble. hope this helps.

    Bookmark   December 13, 2005 at 10:35PM
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Quoting minow101"
"Your stove should still be under warranty. Harman has a five year warranty"

Harman actually carries a 6 Year Gold Warranty. This warranty will cover mechanical and electrical for a period of three years including labor and 6 years on material and workmanship.

As for the other posts regarding the 5 blink status and I will quote the owners manual, 5 blink status "Indicates that the unit has failed to light within a 36 minute start cycle." This tends to happen on re-start after the unit has just down due to the room sensing probe seeing to high of a temperature. A lot of ash build up in the burn pot can have an immediate effect on how the unit re-lights. Sometimes a dirty burn pot can effect air flow into the burn pot not allowing the unit to re-light.

The occasional "clunking" sound your hearing is the slide plate cutting abnormally long pellets or pellets in gerneral that are getting stuck between the slide plate and the feeder body. This is normal for this to happen. The tension the feed motor puts on the slide is very high and is made to cut just about anything in reason in its path. This will make a very loud bang noise at times.

hope this helps you in getting your unit running the way I know it can.

    Bookmark   December 14, 2005 at 8:56AM
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Your description of the 5 blink is better than mine. I didn't really understand the scenario that might cause it during the run cycle. I have found also that along with burn pot issues, you can get 5 or 6 blink warnings when the ESP probe in the exhaust pipe gets heavily covered with light soot/ash. I think it insulates the probe enough to make it think the current temp is less than it actually is. That makes it think the burn is incomplete and shuts down the stove. That's just a problem if you let the cleaning go too long.

I know the clunking you mean. I got the feeling that this problem was more regular and extreme than the occasional pellet crushing. Hard to know from the sound of an email.

I would agree with the overall quality of the stove. I decided to buy it when I saw how solidly the feeder mechanicals were built. Having worked as a welder/fabricator for projects with similar mechanical aspects, I thought the construction looked fairly bullet proof. My only problems seem to come from the draft issue - as discussed in the string about hopper smoke. The electronics also make me a bit nervous but so far so good.

    Bookmark   December 14, 2005 at 5:22PM
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Yea, Not quite sure why your getting smoke in the hopper. Maybe checking the seal around the bottom of the hopper or maybe even the seals in the hopper where the sheet metal is bent. Since the firebox has a negative pressure you would think the unit would need to be sucking air in from somewhere to make this happen and since it's coming into the hopper that almost tells me the it getting air in through the hopper somehow. That would be my guess.

    Bookmark   December 14, 2005 at 6:32PM
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I'm pretty comfortable with my theory that the outside air pipe is the problem. Mine is 8 feet or so long. I think that adds a resistance to the incoming airflow that was not accounted for in the design of the stove.

I think the stove is starved for air when that is hooked up. The draft fan pulls at high draft and the resistance creates a sizable vacuum in the stove including in the hopper. Then when it shifts to low draft, the vacuum eases, and in the process, the hopper draws smoke in from the auger/burnpot.

I'm pretty sure that this is the problem because I've been running without outside air for a week or more and there is no smoke in my hopper... and the stove burns cleaner all around.

    Bookmark   December 15, 2005 at 5:07PM
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As a follow up to my original post... The dealer arranged for us to get a replacement stove from Harman as it was under warranty. We were very satisfied with this response and continue to be with this dealer.

    Bookmark   July 2, 2006 at 11:04AM
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Hello Everyone, IÂm new here and I just happened to do a search and came across this message board regarding the accentra problems. I to am having problems with the unit shutting down on it's own during the day and night. I run my pellet settings on STOVE TEMP both on #1 (feed rate and temperature) and still occasionally would shut down and start blinking a #6 error code. Getting very annoyed with this problem. I did not call for service because I feel nothing is wrong with the pellet stove. I did some research and read the manual like 20 times to try and understand how the unit functions and the functionality of all the sensors with-in the unit. Here are some of the things I have noticed:

1) The auger is making a slight grinding noise. The auger is fine I think thatÂs just the pellets breaking up either by the slide plate or auger.
2) Pellet brand I've been using is BIO Plus from Wal-Mart, which is so dusty I hate it and I would never buy it again. I think the dust is causing the pellets to hang and the slide plate is not letting the pellets fall into the auger area keeping it empty and not feeding the burn pot.
3) With the same pellets IÂve noticed that it does not burn that hot and I calculated that with a temp sensor on the stove.

While reading everyoneÂs problems and experiences with their stoves I came to the conclusion itÂs either one or two things thatÂs causing my problem.

1) Pellet brand = to dusty not feeding the pellets correctly.
2) ESP Probe = not burning hot enough on the lowest setting causing the ESP to fault with a CODE 6 Error.

Currently IÂm burning the BIO plus with a mixture of 25% corn feed just to increase the temperature in the stove on the lowest setting to see what will happened. So far so good burning very efficient.

It is very important to have the installers to check the low draft setting as well to see if it is adjusted accordingly!!

Please reply with ?Âs
Thanks Andy

    Bookmark   November 11, 2006 at 10:01AM
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I have a Harman Accentra insert and I'm wondering how I can keep the flame going strong at all times. I have the temp. mode set at Room Temp @ 80-85 degrees and the feedrate of 4. It seems like the flame is going strong for a minute or two and it will decrease significantly for quite a long time and then go back higher for a little bit & repeat the cycle. The room the stove is in is pretty cold always and I would think when the flame is going low, it might sound like the room has reached its desired temp. But let me assure you that's not that case. This room is COLD! How can I keep the flame going strong? Considering the room is very cold, I can't imagine why the flame would go low and produce not-so-hot hair to the room. I thought the flame would be high aways since the room is always cold. I know this forum subject is regarding p-68 but I'm new at this (posting anything on-line) and I thought someone can help me out. I hope someone can read this message and let me know what I can do to improve my stove's performance. Thank you so much.

    Bookmark   December 5, 2006 at 9:54PM
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Follow up question to my previous posting. If I were to change the mode to Stove Temp. in lieu of Room Temp, and I have the temp & fan set at the highest level, shouldn't my fire burn as hot as it can and produce the hottest air possible? I ask this because mine doesn't when I do set my stove mode to Stove Temp at the highest level & highest blower speed. Sometimes I can actually touch the fan/blower area above the glass door because it's cool rather than being hot. I would appreciate anyone's advice to my situation. Thank you!

    Bookmark   December 5, 2006 at 10:01PM
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All Harman pellet stoves have a high temperature limit. So whatever mode you choose to run the stove in, it will not change the "high limit" temperature programmed in the software of the circuit board, If you have the BTU's cranking on the stove, you are probably "bouncing" off the high limit temperature. When this happens, the board will automatically drop the feed rate of pellets until the temperature drops down on the exhaust sensing probe (ESP)and will increase the feed once the temperature has lowered.

    Bookmark   December 6, 2006 at 10:11PM
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We have had our stove for 6 months and since day one it has not worked correctly. It would do one burn and then shut itself off, and continued in that mode until the stove quit and the status light blinked 5 times. We have had the dealer out 10 times, and they have replaced the ESP, circuit board, and igniter. Finally, they have just replaced the low pressure sensor, and the stove now works. Would I buy another Harman stove, NO! Their customer service is a joke too. They offer no help, and were very rude. If I did not have so much invested in the stove I would take it out to the back yard and bury it. John

    Bookmark   December 19, 2006 at 7:58PM
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Hello everyone.
A pellet stove newbie here. I am grateful for this forum and the posts I've read so far have been helpful.
I had a new Harmon Pellet Stove insert installed just last week. Unlike some of the problems posted where people are having trouble keeping the unit lit, my problem is that the stove will not shut down but will continue to burn with the feed motor continuing to run (around 5 secs every minute) and the Mode Selector turned to OFF. Finally after 45+ minutes I felt my only option was to pull the plug. In addition the "Room Temperature" mode with temp setting at 60 degrees, the temperature in the room got to over 80 degrees with what seemed like no diminishing output from the stove. Distribution and combustion blowers were running at a low setting. I was led to believe that the stove would be smart enough to turn itself down or off if the the ambient temperature of the room was reached and sustained.
I'm being told by the dealer that installed the unit after he talked to technical support at Harmon, that this is normal and when turning the selector to OFF it might take anywhere from 45 mins to 3 hours for the stove to shut down depending on what cycle the stove is in and that the feed motor could be turning this entire time. (He did not address my concern about the room temperature problem). Can anyone confirm that it does indeed take 3 hours sometimes for the unit to shut down before I fire mine up again to try it?
Thank you for your time.

    Bookmark   January 25, 2007 at 9:55AM
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I don't know about your model, I have a P38 and when I turn the feed rate off the feed stops instantly. The combustion blower runs until the probe is cool then shuts down in about 20 mins...

    Bookmark   January 25, 2007 at 7:53PM
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Thanks for the reply! That is what all the information I've read is leading me to believe should happen. Think I just got a bad sensor and/or circuit board. In any case, the dealer is returning today to troubleshoot, but I don't think the way it is currently operating is "normal".

    Bookmark   January 26, 2007 at 9:52AM
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Does anyone have a grinding noice when thier Harman Accentra pellet stove is running? Is it the nature of the beast or a problem we should address with the stove company we purchased it from?

    Bookmark   January 29, 2007 at 3:42PM
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Hi - we have an accentra/stand alone and we are getting a sqeek then clunk for the chain - it clearly tightens when the pellet rocker arm goes down and the chain releases. any ideas - maybe an adjustment? to loosen the chain?

    Bookmark   November 9, 2007 at 8:19PM
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The clunk you're hearing is probably the slide plate cutting pellets which is making the chain seem like it's jumping. There's not much of an adjustment for this.

    Bookmark   November 12, 2007 at 9:22AM
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not the slide - though it's at the same time. I can watch it and actually feel the chain tighten then then it releases as the roller on the slide plate rocker arm pushes the rocker arm out of the way. I tried to adjust the small wheel on the chain in a little. tjoought it quited it down a little. I also added some grease to the wheel on the rocker arm and seemed to quite it a little for a time but the chain still pops. maybe it is something in the plate creating th extra tension. I'll let the pellets run out and pull the slide plate to make sure nothing is causing the extra tension. thanks.

    Bookmark   November 12, 2007 at 8:16PM
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.I think I found the problem with the accentra pellets stove noisey auger and stopping and starting problems.. IT is actually the brass sleeve bearing on the outside of the motor near the cooling fan. The sleeve bearing becomes packed with dust and binds causing what appears to be feed auger problems with pellets and a like. WITH THE UNIT UNPLUGGED, the white cooling fan on the motor should turn freely by hand and spin freely a few revolutions after you spin it. The spinning is easy due to the high gear reduction in the drive to the auger. Disconnect the chain and drive sprocket for the chain and remove the motor. Remove the plastic cooling fan impeller from the stator sharft(press Fit) and then remove the 2 screws that hold the sleeve bearing to the motor frame. Removed the sleeve bearing assembly from the stator shaft(will probably take a good amount of effort and maybe a few drops of WD40 - dont get the wd40 all over everything)Clean the sleeve bearing thoroughly until the stator spins freely in the bearing. It is designed as a slip fit. Add afew drops of 3-in1- oil and re-assemble. Make sure you aligln chain sprocket for strait chain travel. THis should solve the noise and possibly the shutting down problems. MINE BLINKED FIVE TIMES WHEN I FIXED THIS PROBLEM BECAUSE THE MOTOR ACTUALLY BINDS UP AND STOPS> Good luck and let me know how you make out. Stay warm.

    Bookmark   December 3, 2007 at 8:03PM
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Bought our Accentra in 10/04 and has worked flawlessly for 3 heating seasons with the exception of a new feed motor installed in 05(?).
April 07 - started blowing the fuse.
Called local dealer - too busy (lawn and garden center with a stove business on the side). "Call me in the fall".
Called several times in August and came 2 weeks later.
Told him the problem and he adjusted the feed motor. He then informed us that they werenÂt servicing Harman anymore and had to go the next nearest dealer.
Blew the fuse again and called the 2nd dealer several times. Finally came in October, told him the problem. He said the distribution blower didnÂt work and feed motor not properly working. He was going to call Harman rep (they were a new dealer) to make sure and also to check the warranty. After us calling them several times for an answer, they said it would cost us $50.
Called where we purchased the stove (60 miles away) told them about dealer 1 and 2. They ordered the parts under warranty. I installed them. Still blew the fuse. I installed the ESP probe (at my expense). Still blew the fuse. They asked if I had a surge protector. I said "never knew I needed one." I bought one and placed it on its own outlet. STILL blows the fuse.
It looks like the "flash" is coming from under the combustion blower.
It is cleaned regularly and I also cleaned the dirty slide plate and this stopped the binding of the feed motor.
Any HELP will be greatly appreciated before I (and 3 other people) throw this thing out the window!!!
Thank you for the excellent info in the above posts.

    Bookmark   December 9, 2007 at 3:57PM
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I too have a Accentra pellet stove that shuts down and displays 6 flashes. the tech came out and replaced the ESP probe the first time and it ran for one day and then displayed 6 flashes again . The tech came out the second time and replaced the PCB and the problem reapeared within 6 hours. The tech came out the third time after I found a pressure differencial switch that had burned contacts( recording DVM in the contacts that was reading from .6 ohms to 300ohms when the switch was closed and the switch was bypassed and the stove working for fine during that time ( 12 days) The stove has worked fine for five days and now is displaying 6 flashes so I bypassed the pressure switch again and the stove now wont run for more than 1 hour be for displaying 6 flashes with a full flame burning in the fire box.My tech is at a lose as to what could be the problem. This unit has run for 3 seasons without any problems and we burn just over 4 ton of Hartland pellets a year. The only other thing is our unit tweets once in awhile.If anybody was any new ideas about these problems it would be greatly apprecated.

    Bookmark   December 9, 2007 at 10:10PM
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Has anyone else had their accentra decide to not feed pellets? I'm at my wits end with this beasty (I think that we've replaced both the auger and combustion motors in previous years). This is my 3rd season with this thing. I love it -- when it runs.

It's weird, I've cleaned out the hopper, found pitchy build-up near the auger opening. Cleaned that. Can feed pellets along the auger (hand deposited then with the slide plate removed) & fed them through on test. The slide plate moves fine, but pellets don't seem to be dropping. I knew that I was in for fun when I stopped hearing the 'tink' sound of pellets dropping into the stove.

The dealer's supposedly trying to get Harman to replace the unit. Hopefully I'll hear tomorrow that they're picking up this paperweight.

    Bookmark   December 18, 2007 at 2:03AM
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When you say pitchy build-up near the auger opening, what do you mean by pitchy and do you mean in the burn pot or the hopper? Also, did you install the slide plate with the correct side up? The side with the short piece on top which creates a little ridge to push the pellets should be up and the cut out on the end should fit over the pusher arm paddle.

    Bookmark   December 18, 2007 at 1:04PM
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We had the Accentra insert installed last April. It ran fine with softwood pellets until early Feb. On two separate occasions I swore the igniter must be shot....5 blinks....no heat felt at bottom of burn pot. But both times, after a thorough cleaning and scraping with the included tool, it was fine. Many of the above problems sound more complex, but I guess it never hurts to at least scrape the bejesus out of the burn pot around once a week. Overall we're very happy with the stove! No oil or propane in this house!

    Bookmark   March 2, 2008 at 4:03PM
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Wow! Has anyone had a GOOD experience with pellet stoves?

    Bookmark   May 13, 2008 at 11:23AM
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This is my 3rd season with the stove. Had no problems until now. If I turn the stove/room temp. to off it use to take sabout 20 minutes or so to turn off. Now it won't turn off at all. The status light goes off but it will still feed a small amount of pellets about every 3 minutes just enough to keep running. The flame is low but won't shut down. The only way it turns off on it's own is when it runs out of pellets. I have had to actually scoop out the pellets from the hopper just for it to shut down because it was getting to warm in the house. Any ideas of what the problem could be? I never get the blinking light either. My friend ended up having a problem last month and it took over a week to get through to speak to someone from Harman. It ended up being their motor that was their problem.

    Bookmark   November 15, 2008 at 10:35AM
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Hi, I purchesed the Harman Pellet stove insert this past September and it has ben working nice on the cold days. I usually use it in Room mode and set it on about 72 degrees and the flames and fan seem to work fine going up and down based on the amount of heat required in the room. The problem is that when the fire goes out (no heat is needed at all) the temp in the house gets pretty cold because it takes awhile until the stove is told to go back on. I often need to go and play w. the temp control to get it to come back on. Is this normal that the it will not come back on automacially until a much lower temp is detected? I think of my furnace and it seems to come back on closer to the desired temp. Does anyone have any experience w/ this feature?

    Bookmark   November 15, 2008 at 11:38AM
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have had my accentra insert for several years and have always experienced the following.
1. my flame rises to 8-10" fan while the auger is feeding. it will then burn down to a small 1 -2" flame until the auger kicks in again. it repeats this over and over. have adjusted every thing . dosnÂt matter if the feed rate is 3 or 6, if temp or fan controls are on low or max. it goes back and forth from max burn to minimum burn. it is the most dramatic in the room temp mode. stove temp mode is less dramatic. on the surface it appears there is a delay in the auger.

2. the auger never,never fills the burnpot 1" from the edge and never overflows. the burnline is always 2-3" or more from the edge (burnpot about half full). the ashes build up along this burnline and result in a carbon buildup daily. some mornings, depending on pellet brand, it looks like a birdsnest in the burnpot from the buildup of ash. control settings do not affect this daily occurance.

dealership replaced the control panel circutboard, no difference. door gasket is fine, pressure is plentiful. probe,flap and chambers are cleaned monthly.
believe the problem to be with the amount of pellets (lack of) getting to the auger. think the slide plate is either not opening far enough or staying open long enough. anyone have any ideas?

    Bookmark   November 21, 2008 at 10:07AM
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Posted by kimbermaryland (My Page) on Fri, Nov 21, 08 at 14:39

Had Harman Advance Pellet installed in October 2005.
Had the unit cleaned last spring, after smoke came thru hopper.

Turned the unit on the night before last for the first time since the cleaning. No visible smoke, but burnt wood smell coming thru blower vents.

S/w tech who serviced the unit and I vacuumed all openings
yesterday. (Tech said that the only other time he encountered this, kids had shoved crayons into the unit's holes...we don't have kids or grandkids, just my husband and myself...) Just turned the unit on again. The burnt wood smell is blowing thru the blower again!

The Harman trouble-shooting section recommends caulking the seams of the exhaust pipe, but the caulking that's already there appears to be intact.
Anyone know what's causing this? Any possible solutions?

    Bookmark   November 21, 2008 at 2:44PM
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Did you solve the problem with the smoke in the hopper? I am now having the same problem. Any help would be great.

    Bookmark   November 25, 2008 at 8:55PM
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I was having blink status light problems and extra smoke in the burn chamber, while fire was going, not hopper. Also had pitch tar stuff behind the left plate, on floor, that goes over the heat exchange. Turns out I was not ramming that cleaning brush fully into the 2 airways behind those two plates. The left side I can get the brush almost all the way in, the right side about 3 inches less. I had been cleaning it by just running it until it hit near the back of stove. You have to use a bit of force to get it in and ram it up into the stove. The wire on my brush is now well bent, and I moved a lot of ash. This wasn't easy to do because of the build up. It is about as much fun as unclogging a drain with a snake.

I wished the instructions had pointed out how to do this, correctly, i.e.
how far.

My smoke problem is gone, as is the pitch. The stove gives out more heat and the glass stays cleaner long. Don't know if this may cause the hopper to fill with smoke, but if you think about it, if air is not able to flow through those heat tubes, it is got to go somewhere, and maybe messing up the burn as the "computer board" can't deal with the incorrect air flow. Guessing..

Also, the installer connected up the 4 wires that you have to remove when
pulling the stove, but left my green ground wire that connects near/under the pressure differencial switch off. I connected this up and have had no problems.

About dealers being jerks... It is not just Harmam dealers, trust me.
I really dislike the Other product in the summer/Pellet Stove in the winter ones, too. And the ones that sell a brand for few years because they are so great, then switch, and then will have nothing to do with the old brand, or any brand they are not selling.

I had problems getting someone to clean the chimney because of the brand of pellet stove, a Breckwell, sitting in it. They no longer sold these I was told.

Not sure what the difference is pulling a wood burning stove out vs a pellet stove.

    Bookmark   December 1, 2008 at 12:13AM
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There is a fix for your hopper smoke for the Accentra. You should have your dealer call Harman Tech and have a spec sheet sent to them on how to install an 1/4 " air tube between two drilled holes 3/8" in two specific area in the rear of the stove above center of auger shaft and between the feeder and the air damper. I stress that this should be done by an authorized dealer only.

    Bookmark   December 2, 2008 at 10:04PM
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Hello, this is the first I have seen of this message board and this is also the first year I have lived in a house with an Accentra pellet insert.

My stove will not function; as mentioned earlier in this thread I have symptoms including 5 blinks of the status light, no apparent movement of the auger or any feed going on whatsoever. I have pulled away the insert from the fireplace, and the wiring seems to all be intact and the insides fairly clean looking. I've located all the components such as the air pressure switch and the feeder motor gigmo. So I have a couple of questions based on my reading of the user manual and observations and research on the web so far.

1. When one sets the feed knob of the control panel to "Test", the user manual says ALL motors should function. What happens for me is the blower comes on and cycles on and off as described in the manual, but the auger does not move and the electrical motor shows no sign of life.

So the question: when in "test" mode should the feeder motor operate? The idea that it should seems to be backed up by a note in the manual to the effect that if you "test" it too often you will get a build up of pellets in the burn pot...implying that the motor will be running and depositing pellets.

2. When I have removed the compass kinda plate above the burn pot, and the backing plate kind of heavy metal piece, I can see the end of the auger. Trying to hold the end by my hand, i cannot rotate it more than about a 1/32" either direction. Should this auger move more than that or does its lack of rotation indicate its jammed up somehow?

3. I've emptied the pellet bin and tried to access the auger lengthwise with zero success. (I've had the unit unplugged so it doesnt suddenly spring to life). Is there any way to get to the auger to clear possible jams short of removing the motor and drive?

4. Speaking of removing the motor and drive, am I to understand that this is a chain drive arrangement, and the chain must be inside that cast shrouding in the middle of the "gizmo"? If the auger will not move freely, could it be that the chain is jammed up inside there? I would think an electric motor would turn freely so I would think that any jam might not be in the motor but instead in the drive mechanism?

5. Finally, I've though about disassembling that drive and trying to see if there is an obstruction like a nail or something jamming the auger. But it looks like its would be a major pain, especially if theres a chain to deal with. Is self servicing advised? I live out in the country some 50 miles from any service personnel I can locate so its gotta be expensive for them to come out...

Thanks a million in advance for any advice. I bought this house a few months ago and was hoping this pellet stove would keep me warm but right now I am sucking propane for the central heating like its going out of style and want this stove to work!

one love
jah bill

    Bookmark   December 8, 2008 at 12:18AM
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another issue with Harman stove, just had installed 1 week ago & now stove will not run, have 3 red lights power,combustion blower & status only that are not blinking,dealer tells me to make sure doors are closed & hopper lid is closed, also disconnected power & pluged back in still nothing, ,,,any help appreciated as dealer cannot look at for 3-days

    Bookmark   December 11, 2008 at 10:54AM
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Dannyny Wrote
"Hi, I purchesed the Harman Pellet stove insert this past September and it has ben working nice on the cold days. I usually use it in Room mode and set it on about 72 degrees and the flames and fan seem to work fine going up and down based on the amount of heat required in the room. The problem is that when the fire goes out (no heat is needed at all) the temp in the house gets pretty cold because it takes awhile until the stove is told to go back on. I often need to go and play w. the temp control to get it to come back on. Is this normal that the it will not come back on automacially until a much lower temp is detected? I think of my furnace and it seems to come back on closer to the desired temp. Does anyone have any experience w/ this feature?"

Danny, when they installed my stove they attached the room temp probe right to the back of the stove. The problem is, since the stove is cast Iron, it takes a long time to heat up, and then when it does, cast iron retains heat and dissipates it for a long time. Thus the stove gets real hot and then shuts down for a long time.

Try taking the Room temp probe and attaching it to the wall about 8 inches from the floor of the wall it is in front of as far away from the stove as you can. That way it will be more accurate with room temp and probably won't shut off.

You can do what I did. By a cheap digital infra red thermometer and a thermometer to check the room temp accurately away from the stove. measure the temp on the wall that accurately indicates how hot it is in the room and make sure the tip of the probe is against the wall in that area. I would bet you will get a more even temp in the room. Currently I have had the stove shut off twice during the middle of the night. The first time it was at 3.00am and wasn't in the mood to count blinks. The second was at about 5:00am it it blinked 5 times. I think the problem may be wet lignetic pellets or a log jam so to speak , in the hopper preventing pellets from dropping. I am not calling the dealer now as I am willing to play with it and see.

If it continues, I will have them come out. I have had the stove about a month and thouroghly cleaned it twice. The first time to see how it is done, and the second time today to insure the problem wasn't ash build up under the burn surface on the burn pot.

If the 5 blink continues, I will post again.

    Bookmark   December 11, 2008 at 3:08PM
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In followup to my original post, I am pretty sure I figured out what my problem has been. Last night I happened to be sitting on the couch while the flame in the stove started to slowly die down and out. I could hear the auger running trying to build a larger flame but I couldn't hear the clink of pellets that usually accompanies the sound and the fire was clearly not being fed as it continued to die. I reached down into the hopper at the very bottom and felt there was a gap or pocket right before the opening at the bottom of the hopper. I gave the pellet hopper a good stir and pushed pellets down into the opening and the fire built rather quickly as it had gotten colder in the room.

The problem started originally when I started using the ton of Lignetics I have. Some of them are rather long and I think it creates a Log Jam as I said above. Now I make sure to stir up the pellets and I have started to mix them with my Hamers when I fill it up late at night.

THe hamers I was using before that were fine, the Southern States, Statesmen were also fine although much more dirty with more fines and more auger screeching noise. The Lignetics are also fine as long as you give the hopper a good stir and break up some of the long ones.


The five blinks was just caused by a hopper jam of long pellets. Easy fix.

    Bookmark   December 12, 2008 at 2:45PM
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I have 2 Accentra stoves, an insert & a freestanding bought in 2004 & 2006 which I installed myself. I keep both stoves superclean and have had no trouble. Both stoves are installed with shortest & straightest vent possible(thru the wall & up 3 feet)and the air intake not connected to the outside.

Has anyone tried replacing the computer circiut board to correct erratic operation ? If the computer is sending crazy signals the stove will operate inefficient & erratic, the dealers have no way of testing these boards except by replacing to see if it cures the problem.

    Bookmark   December 22, 2008 at 8:55PM
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I have had a Harman Accentra pellet stove for over a year. This year I have been having issues with the pellets not dropping into the auger and causing the stove to go out with a 6-blink error. What I have found is the space in the feeder body (see exploded parts view in manual) between the slider plate and the auger has sticky sap which tends to make the pellets stick to is and eventually cause a log jam. I removed the auger and could see the pellets jammed above it. I removed all the pellets and as much of the sap as I could. The stove ran for about a day then jammed again with the same issue. It looks like all the tar needs to be removed. Note this is almost impossible to clean. Has anyone had a similar issue and how was it resolved and what is the best way to clean out that area?

    Bookmark   December 23, 2008 at 3:04PM
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If you have the Accentra insert, Please read the above entry by dana-mark on Dec. 1st. The two 2 inch square tube exhaust ports (Fig 26 and 27 in the cleaning instructions are important to keep clean. If you do not have the cleaning instructions, I highly recommend that you download them. The web site is accentracleaninginstructions.pdf. Use your color printer as it makes the picture so much more vivid. I went to the hardware store and bought a three foot length of flexible clear vinyl tubing to add to my vacuum to probe the ports to get extra ash out after I use the wire brush that came with the stove. Use duct tape to build up the tube to fit inside your vacuum hose.
If you were able to clean the stove good enough to get it to run one day, I am thinking that if you get the stove burning correctly the pitch problem will go away. Please let me know if this helped , or what you had to do to correct the problem.

    Bookmark   December 26, 2008 at 11:37AM
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We installed a Harman Accentra in March, 2008. It has worked fine until now. The auger is overfeeding pellets which is causing the box not to ignite. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

    Bookmark   January 18, 2009 at 9:30PM
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Decided to clean the stove for the fourth time this heating season as I noticed that I was really only getting heat out of the right side of the hot air vent. I ran the flex rod all the way through, but still it would not pull air when I turned on the combuston blower. So pulled the stove all the way out and pulled off the little inspection plate on the side of the combustion chamber. The tube for the exhaust, which is on the right side of the chamber was plugged with a black goo. The flex rod would not break through so used a long piece of flex tubing to push through it. Took about three hours to complete the cleaning, but finally have her done and is heating much better.

Check those exhaust tubes. You can do this easily by removing the interior side plates, turning on your controls so the combustion blower is working, and feel in front of the exhaust tubes on the right and left. You should feel a strong vacuum from both sides. If not, one is plugged and you must unplug it.

Good luck, hope that this help someone. Cold in VA, yesterday it was a minus 1. John

    Bookmark   January 19, 2009 at 4:55PM
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I have seen this on my new stove once. It was a result of Clinkers built up in the burn pot and also. Right below the burn put is a little door with a thumb screw on each side. You must make sure the stove is cool and unscrew the thumbscrews and vacum out the debris that gets in there and makes the starter, heating element waste heat.

I beleive the problem is that with all that ash and debris built up in there, it blocks air flow from out of there, through the holes in the burn pot and doesn't provide as much oxygen for the starting and burning the pellets.

The clinkers act just like a perfect insulator for the heat that the starter element creates to start the pellets.

The heat should come from the electric element, heat up the burn pot and along with the oxygen from the air coming under the burn pot, start the pellets.

In short, if you haven't yet, try reading the cleaning instructions and doing a thorough cleaning. If you got the stove in March and haven't cleaned it yet, you are asking for trouble.

Hope this helps, this is the only thing I can think of. If that doesn't help, Call the stove dealer and have them come out and see if something is wrong with the igniter circuit and/or Element.

    Bookmark   January 20, 2009 at 3:58PM
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We replaced our wood burning stove with an Accentra-2 pellet stove last spring to heat the upstairs of our condo in the Sierras but didn't really need to use it until December. After reading some of the problems on this site, I guess we should feel lucky. Our stove heats well, and we'd be thrilled with it if it weren't for the loud noise it makes intermittently. Sounds sort of like giant popcorn being popped or like rain pelting a tin roof. We can't pin down exactly when it occurs: almost always on cool down but then sometimes when it's just running. Maybe itÂs temperature change? The one constant when the noise occurs seems to be the combustion motor running. Noise (along with reliability) was one of the prime considerations in our purchase. Our dealer has taken some of the front inside apart, tightened the back, all to no avail. We have a fairly small area and end up having to raise our voices to talk over the stoveÂs noise, blast the TV to hear well over it, and heaven forbid we leave the stove on at night and try to sleep in the loft open to the living room. Our dealer says Harman told him they haven't received any complaints like this on our model. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to quiet this stove?

    Bookmark   February 1, 2009 at 6:17PM
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I have been having a problem with my Accentra-2, the Ignitor Assembly is not heating up to start the pellets burning, my stove is 4 years old so it does not come under the warranty so I have to fix it myself. Has anybody replaced thier ignitor assembly and how much does the ignitor element cost?

    Bookmark   March 2, 2009 at 11:10AM
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I have a 6 year old Accentra insert. My ignitor just went out also. It wasn't too bad to replace. The worst part was that the stove had to be pulled out. Since it was out, I just did my thorough cleaning. The 305 watt ignitor cost a little over $70.

    Bookmark   March 3, 2009 at 11:25AM
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About:We installed a Harman Accentra in March, 2008. It has worked fine until now. The auger is overfeeding pellets which is causing the box not to ignite. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!...

Make sure you clean out the charcoal on the sides and bottom of the firebox. If there is a layer of charcoal/carbon across the bottom near the heating element it will never start. I use my fingers to feel for it, and a screwdriver/hammer to help remove the stuff. Put the screwdriver tip next to the carbon and lightly tap the screwdriver, think, cleaving a diamond. Don't go beating on things. Don't hit your auger. Take it easy as you get around the opening. Remember you may have to leave a little. Will come out next cleaning. Get a mirror and a toothpick and clean those air holes. There is a row very low down that you can't see or open them up without a mirror. This row is the one that get "carbon" over. Also, (from the cleaning instructions), take your cleaning tool and tap, tap, tap the top of the firebox to clean off the heating element inside the firebox. Open the front cover of the firebox via of the two thumb screws and remove the ash.

    Bookmark   April 4, 2009 at 6:55PM
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I have a 2005 Harmon Accentra Pellet stove. It has been outstanding since I bought it. Last season it began to make this clunking noise that previous people have talked about. It is not the cutting of the pellets. I have had service people out and they have replaced the motor, sanded the auger, and removed a blockage of pellet build up. It would quiet the stove for a couple hours and then clunk!

I started the stove again this season and it started clunking again. It started off a couple times a day but then becomes much more frequent. The previous poster was right I can see the chain tighten in the back and everything in the back of the stove will raise up and then drop and CLUNK! Anyone have any ideas I have had my service people out 5 times and they can't seem to find the problem. Thanks in advance!!!

    Bookmark   November 2, 2010 at 6:34PM
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we have been having an issue with the pellets not buring completely. we are going through a bag and half a day, emptying the ash pan(unburnt pellet pan) every day. this is costing us more than it would to use our fuel oil furnace. Any suggestions?

    Bookmark   December 8, 2010 at 9:20PM
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I have used pellet stoves as my only heat source for 12yrs. I've used a harmon accentra for the past 7yrs.Love this stove, be prepaired to repair your own stove or don't buy one. #1 keep stove clean! Just replaced the combustion blower. The clunking noise you hear is the auger drive chain jumping on the missalligned chain gears. loosen the allen screw on auger moter gear and line up gears,loosen the tension adjuster, rotate to a fresh position and tighten bolt when correct tension is achieved. I've had my chain completely jump off the gears. The sound is not pellets breaking! Other parts replaced-auger motor,circulation blower. Stuff wears out when it gets used!

    Bookmark   January 17, 2011 at 8:44AM
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I have an identical problem to the one posted by someone in December, but I didn't see a reply. I have 3 lights lit solid (not blinking): power, status and combustion fan. However, the stove is dead.. No sounds at all, no feed, no blowers. It's just ov two years old so I know it's under warranty, but our dealer and Harmon seem to be no help!! I'd appreciate any advice.

    Bookmark   February 2, 2011 at 8:27PM
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I've had my P68 Harmon Pellet Stove for 3 years and love it. I do have a problem that just started. It doesn't seem to be blowing out that much heat as in the past. Any suggestions as to what this might be? Thank you in advance.

    Bookmark   February 10, 2011 at 8:43PM
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pellet stove will not kick in and stay on. have to stop and start to keep it running. sometimes and can get it to kick in and run. have any ideas on what i should try? wife thinks it the controll panel.

    Bookmark   February 20, 2011 at 10:21AM
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I have had my Accenttra stove for about 8 yrs now and love it. Last night for the first time ever it started a loud whistling noise everytime it feed pellets. Has anyone ever heard of such a thing?

    Bookmark   February 24, 2011 at 6:40AM
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i have accentra pellet insert for about 2 yrs,last night open the door and the hinge snaped off.has anyone ever heard of such thing?

    Bookmark   February 26, 2011 at 4:03PM
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My stove is only feeding pellets right now, won't ignite. I have tried to clean it. I think the ignitor might be shot. Any help?

    Bookmark   February 28, 2011 at 9:16AM
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hi, iv'e read the problems with the eccenra model.i own the p38 model have no probems at all, it delivers a lot of heat, however, as far as pellets go iv'e tried a lot of brands hardwood always burns best, the best iv'e found sold at low's home impovement are green team the pellets are small in size and burn extemley hot.i can run my stove at a lower rate there in my opinion the best pellets.

    Bookmark   March 20, 2011 at 7:49PM
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hi,i bought the harmon pellet stove after researching pellet stoves, the harmon was to be the best on the market if not, what are the most reliable stoves on the market .

    Bookmark   March 27, 2011 at 9:46AM
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I just bought a accentra free standing pellet stove used and tried it in the garage last night. The stove was empty so I filled the hopper and turned it on. From turn on to blowing heat was about 15 minutes...is this normal?? The area where the pellets ignites was empty when I started and I was worried it was overful before I finally got a flame. Is that just the way it is when you start an empty stove

    Bookmark   June 4, 2011 at 4:18PM
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"I just bought a accentra free standing pellet stove used and tried it in the garage last night. The stove was empty so I filled the hopper and turned it on. From turn on to blowing heat was about 15 minutes...is this normal?"

Ah, are you crazy? Your post is June? Heat index is 104 here in Virginia.

I have not timed it, but with and empty firebox it may take that. I have my feed set around 3.5 and the hopper can get rather full before it lights. Takes time to heat that metal too to get hot air. It seems like a long time in the cold morning turning the stove up if it has been shut off most of the night. During the day afterwards you don't notice the delay, and the stove is somewhat still hot.
If you start to have trouble a mini cleaning of the firebox would help..
Make sure you keep the carbon cleaned out of the firebox, carbon will stop the ignition, bang on the firebox with that metal tool lightly to get the dust off the heater under, inside the firebox, see cleaning instructions, and when you do clean, clean, it, open the small port on the front of the firebox and get that ash out, banging on it again while open to knock loose the dust ash.

    Bookmark   August 4, 2011 at 11:03PM
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Want to post another problem I fixed last winter and a question.
I have an insert, the stove wasn't producing heat, acting fun. Took a vinyl tube connected it to a vacumn and slid it under the stove and with a lot of effort up the blower in the center of the stove that feeds the hot air tubes for the room. Jamming it up and down I noticed dirt falling out, I pulled the hose/tube out and with it, stuck to the hose, enough dog fur to make a squirrel. I got the hose to slide in the back part and more fur, back to the front and 3 packing peanut foam pieces came out, the cat plays with these. It seems this stove sucks up anything light in weight on the floor in front of it. I have cut some gutter leaf guards, flatten then, and slid them under the stove, this trapped most of our two Australian Shepherds fur and cat toys. If you are having heat problems it would be good to check this.

Question: What is the best way to get to that blower? Can the insert be turned on its side? Should you remove the cast iron parts, ex. top hopper, doors? Can you get to it from the back? I can't see how you could. I need to pull the insert and clean the other motors, etc, check on the gasket for this winter's use. Would like to check this center motor/blower.


    Bookmark   August 4, 2011 at 11:47PM
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I have a harman accentra, having trouble regulating the temperature. comes on 68dgr one time 70 the next then runs to 73 or more before shutting down. Temp sat a 70 on stove. what am I doing wrong. (put in new exhaust probe)

    Bookmark   November 15, 2011 at 3:10PM
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I was just told that I have a BURN BACK condtion with my stove. Has anyone heard of this and what's it going to cost me to fix this. This all started with the six blinking lights

    Bookmark   November 15, 2011 at 6:12PM
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This is a response to the post by dede66 on Sat, Nov 15, 08 at 10:35

regarding the Harmon stove that won't shut off

This is my 3rd season with the stove. Had no problems until now. If I turn the stove/room temp. to off it use to take sabout 20 minutes or so to turn off. Now it won't turn off at all. The status light goes off but it will still feed a small amount of pellets about every 3 minutes just enough to keep running. The flame is low but won't shut down. The only way it turns off on it's own is when it runs out of pellets.

I had the same problem with my accentra insert this week. Turned out that the 2 square 2 inch exhaust tubes were blocked with ash in the back right corner where they tee into the vertical exhaust stack. A service technician explained to me that the stove could not cool it self off with the blockage and continued to run to prevent the flame back feeding into the hopper. I didn't realize how blocked they were until i removed the rectangle access hatch on the exhaust chamber stack (secured by 2 wing nuts) and looked down in there with a flashlight. I had to vacuum all of the ash out of each tube and now the stove works just fine. I was regularly cleaning these tube with the square brush supplied but I suspect instead of removing the ash, i was actually pushing it farther in and compacting it into that back corner. from now on i will use a 1 inch hose connected to my vacuum to suck all of the debris out of each square exhaust tube.

    Bookmark   November 18, 2011 at 4:24PM
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I have a Harmon xxv anniversary model. I have a problem that no one else seems to have. My power company recently installed smart meters that are read daily over the electric line between midnight and two am. Every night at the precise time the meters are read my stove shuts down and will not restart until it has been turned off, unplugged and allowed to cool of for at lest two hours. Then it can be turned on, restarted and it runs fine until the next night. The power company has changed the transformer serving my house and put in a different meter. So far nothing has helped, It is driving my crazy. Has anyone else had this problem

    Bookmark   December 13, 2011 at 11:36AM
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I have a 6 yr. old Harman Accentra pellet stove which has behaved well up until the last year or so. It starts rather slowly and then the flame eventually dies out and I get the 5-blink status. During this startup I noticed the ignitor light never goes out and then the feed light stops turning on which causes the flame to die. I was able to fix this problem entirely and am hoping this will help someone else having the same issue. First of all I changed the foam weatherstrip gasket on the hopper lid because I noticed when I pushed down on the lid the flame changed shape and size so I knew there was a leak. It's critical for a good start and burn to have a good seal there to maintain negative pressure inside the combustion area. I bought 1/2" wide x 3/8" thick weatherstripping, you'll need about 3' long. The hopper lid should close firmly and make a noticable impression on the surface of the weatherstripping. The second issue is the feed motor binding up and not running at full speed. Watch the little white plastic fan blades, if they're barely turning or you can easily stop it with you finger, then you need to remove the motor and clean it and put a little 3-in-1 oil on the brass bushing. The fan blade should spin freely and not feel bound up. You might have to adjust the tightness of the motor mounting screws as they can distort the bushing alignment also. Be sure to unplug the unit before working on it. Also it's a good idea to clean the ESP sensor on the flue pipe. Remove the screw and carefully pull it out and clean it with a wet paper towel. I wouldn't recommend any cleaners or abrasives. The stove now starts in 5 minutes and there is a nice big crown shaped flame which now turns off the ignitor and gets the distribution fan running quickly. Be sure to clean the burn pot every week and use good premium pellets. I like Warm Front and Maine Woods. Hope this helps someone.

    Bookmark   December 17, 2011 at 9:07AM
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Be sure to use a rubber foam heat-resistant weatherstripping or just buy the Harman OEM hopper lid gasket.

    Bookmark   December 18, 2011 at 7:51AM
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Hope someone can help me . I have a Harman Advance Pellet stove and last year it worked flawlessly . However this year it began having issues . The problem is the flame will die down , the feed light is on but the auger motor does not operate unless I put my hand over the fresh air intake . Then it works for a few minutes and the issue starts all over again . Ive cleaned the stove completely 100% and ive also replaced the low pressure switch . Has anyone else had this issue ? Thanx . Greg

    Bookmark   December 30, 2011 at 6:40PM
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Greg, sounds like there's an air leak somewhere, either the hopper lid gasket, the rope gasket around the ash pan or front view door. By putting your hand over the air intake you're helping to create the necessary vacuum to run the stove. It's a little strange that the feed light is on though. I've heard of temporarily bypassing the low pressure switch as a test to see if the feed motor works. Hope you can fix it. Bill

    Bookmark   December 31, 2011 at 10:29AM
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thanx for the info Bill ,I used a incense stick to try and locate a leak and did not find one , spoke to someone today who said the same thing . Bypassed the low pressure switch and it runs great ! I was told its because my combustion blower is failing and needs replacement . Its not creating the necessary vacuum and this is a common issue and specified this is only a temporary fix ! He stated this would get me by until I can pick up a new blower this week .

    Bookmark   December 31, 2011 at 3:53PM
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Greg, that makes sense if the combustion blower is weak. You might try and take it apart and clean it and blow it out with compressed air and then oil the bearings with 3-in-1 oil rather than put up the money for new one. I was able to fix my feed motor by doing that. These pellet stoves collect alot of very fine pellet dust that eventually binds up any dry precision bearings in the vicinity. Good luck with it and Happy New Year! Let us know how you make out.

    Bookmark   December 31, 2011 at 4:00PM
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Well replaced the combustion blower and fan .. had the same issue so i dragged it out to the garage and cleaned the heck out of it again . Needless to say im very familiar with this stove now !Hooked it up to a leftover stainless pipe i had and it worked great ! Turns out the chimney I had plumbed it into (removed a old wood stove from this chimney) was totally clogged up ! Hit my local Lowes and purchased a brush and 40 feet of extentions . Ended up with 12 to 14 gallons of soot in my wet/dry vac ! lesson learned I guess and my Harman Advance is working like a charm :-) Thanx for everyones help ! And just a fyi , during the night before I cleaned the chimney my carbon monoxide detector went off due to the clogged chimney ! Scared the heck outa me and the family but also saved our lives im sure . Worth every penny and Im glad we have them !

    Bookmark   January 16, 2012 at 9:12PM
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My Harman Accentra flame guide keeps getting pushed out of its "cradle" anyone have a fix for this ? It does look worn out , would a replacement correct this ?


    Bookmark   February 6, 2012 at 5:55PM
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I have a Harman Accentra (free standing) that is about 6 years old. Last year towards the end of the heating season, it started to make creosote on the inside of the front door. This year it has constantly been making creosote to the point of shutting it down and giving it a very thorough cleaning including the pipes going outside and replacing the front door gasket because it is stuck to the stove and pulled out of the door. I have been using Eureka pellets since purchased new. I was advised by a local Harman tech/service man that I should clean it again and try a different pellet to eliminate the pellet as an issue. I did the cleaning on Super Bowl Sunday and fired it up at kickoff time and started the burn and watch process for creosote build-up on the door using Ambiance pellets. Less than 24 hours and three bags later same outcome of creosote. I have the temp set at 85 and a feed rate of 3 1/2 - everything seems to function like it did in prior years but the cresote problem is on-going. Last night I was out of the house at a meeting and the stove running. My wife heard a loud pop from the stove and discovered that the cast iron piece that covers the burn box was physically moved off the burn box and the flame completely engulfed the inside of the burn area.

The Harman.com site won't respond at all and very unfriendly to users that have their product. My stove supplier never heard of the creosote problems so offer little to no advice as to curing the issue. I have read in previous comments on this site of the buildup on the auger and related problems to the auger's operation and some of the cures for eliminating the "sticky" stuff on the auger such as drilling holes and adding a tube but I am not sure if this is a cure for creosote on the front door. I was also asked if I have outside air plumbed into the vent in the back of the stove - I don't. Need to ask for help from fellow Harman users since no-one other than the owners know how to solve these issues when they are identified. I am frustrated to a point of taking the stove out of operation and going back to coal. Does anyone have a cure for this????

Thanks in advance,


    Bookmark   February 8, 2012 at 1:27PM
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Hi Bob, I too have a 6yr. old Harman Accentra. I've been researching different brands of pellets for quite a few years and this is the first time I've ever heard of either Eureka or Ambiance. I'm a little skeptical of both brands because I don't think either one is endorsed by the Pellet Fuels Institute, just going by the pictures online of the bags I didn't see the PFI logo. I've had good luck with New England, Maine Woods, and Inferno. Just my opinion but I would stick with PFI pellets so you know what your getting. Also I'm amazed you can set your stove temp to 85, that seems awful high, maybe those pellets are not very efficient or don't burn hot enough which would be the reason for the creosote.

    Bookmark   February 8, 2012 at 6:21PM
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Thanks for the insight on pellets and what to look for. I stayed with Eureka because that was the pellet of choice locally and in good supply when I purchased the stove. They are from Montana and I will be switching to Maine Woods or Vermont Woods for next years batch. Didn't have a whole lot of success with New England pellets when I briefly tried them several years ago.

Come to find out the repair to make the creosote problem go away is the same cure as the "sticky" auger solution listed in the previous blogs. I drilled the two holes (1 in the bottom of the hopper and 1 in the cold air duct)and installed the plastic tube in the holes. Supposedly this is called "burn back" and has been known by Harman for several years but not communicated to their distributors as to the problem or the cure. I was informed of this yesterday afternoon by a dealer and tech guy of Harman stoves in New Hampshire and further told that all their new pellet stoves comes with this vent tube or a variation of resolve installed in them from the factory. As of this writing the stove is burning clean - but I am not running it 24/7 until I get more run time from 3pm to 11pm when I am home to watch and observe. I am hoping if it continues with no tell tale of creosote that this weekend it will be put back on the 24/7 routine and my oil burner can take a rest.

I put the stove at 85degrees in hopes that it will burn hotter to not allow the build up of creosote - my own creative thoughts put into play that didn't work. Typically, I run the stove at 75+ degrees because my house is a big 3600 square foot log home with all cathedral ceilings. This stove does a remarkable job at heating the whole house with the help of some directional fans and naturally ceiling fans in every room to move the heat around. Thanks for your info - always good to share the good and the bad with others.


    Bookmark   February 9, 2012 at 10:18AM
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Further update on my Accentra free standing pellet stove. I did a 3-4 hour burn Wednesday night and an 8 hour burn Thursday night after doing the "tube modification" to the cold air duct and the hopper for the creosote on the inside of the front door. After the 8 hour burn last night I shut the stove off and opened the door to check for creosote - back again on the front door. Not happy and I thought I had it licked by previous recommendations of the tube mod. I also noticed small wisps of fire from around the back of the burn pot. I figure that gasket got blown or fractured with the pop Tuesday night of the cast iron deflector on the burn pot.

Now looking for more assistance for possibly the 1/4" hole mod to the auger housing and physical location of this 1/4" hole and ask the question does the auger need to be removed and cleaned thoroughly and what is entailed in the removal process of the auger and replacement of the burnpot gasket? Very discouraged at this point.


    Bookmark   February 10, 2012 at 12:06PM
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Hi Bob, I get occasional "small wisps of fire" around the burn pot and sometimes it looks like a shiny black coating in that area but it seems to have cleared up since I stopped burning the NE pellets. The Inferno seem to burn hotter. The front door has a dry flaky black crust at times below the glass but not a lot and I just hit it with the vacuum every other week. How does your glass look, do you have to clean it often. Mine gets a little residue around the outer and upper edges but wipes off with wet paper towel. Have you tried a bag of different pellets, might be worth a try. I think the auger removal is just unbolting it from the back. There's an exploded part diagram in your owner's manual, also a .PDF file from the Harman website. I'm guessing the pop was a mechanical issue, either the auger sticking or the chain/sprocket, I don't think a gasket leak would cause that. On mine I had to solid mount the auger motor, the factory rubber grommets were flexing to the point where the 2 sprockets were not only misaligned but also not in the same plane with each other and the chain actually jumped off one time. I simply replaced the grommets with washers on each side and it works flawless and quiet now.

    Bookmark   February 11, 2012 at 8:03AM
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The auger feed tube is plugged and I have no idea how to unplug it,if I push pellets in at bottom of hopper by hand it works ok,it is a Harman Accentra I bought new in 2002. Can someone offer me some help? Thanks Chuck Ps. my serviceman told me to burn it as hpy as possible and maybe it would fall loose "no luck>

    Bookmark   February 12, 2012 at 12:09PM
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I love my stove but it is driving me nuts. It will run long enough to get hot, then it idles with a very low flame for a while, then goes out. The Feed Motor light comes on sometimes with no associated auger movement. Service guy has been out multiple times. He replaced the room temp sensor and most recently the vacuum switch. Non of the controls seem to work correctly... the auger runs at the same speed regardless of where the feed rate switch is set. Also the temp setting does not affect anything. THOUGHTS???

    Bookmark   March 7, 2012 at 7:57AM
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Sounds like what's been happening to a lot of these Accentra's that are 5 or 6 yrs. old, check to see if the small electric motor that turns the gearbox/sprocket unit is running. It has a small white plastic cooling fan that should be spinning freely when the feed motor light comes on. If it's barely turning and you can stop it easily with your fingers, then you need to take the motor off the gearbox and clean and lubricate it. If you have a newer stove, then you don't have the sprocket/chain setup and I can't help you because I'm not that familiar with it. Also make sure the foam gasket beneath the hopper lid is making a good seal, this ensures a slight vacuum inside the combustion area for proper ignition and burning.

    Bookmark   March 7, 2012 at 6:55PM
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My 4 year old accentra is inoperative. My repair guy says its the circuit board as the auger will not operate and the first repair guy said it was the circuit board not the auger motor. I find it impossible to get any decent repair people for Harman stoves so I am on my own.
Any suggestions

    Bookmark   August 13, 2012 at 8:53AM
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I installed a Harman Accentra Insert 2 months ago. The draft setting, how important is this. The stove has good heat, a bag a day. The dealer wants 150.00 to test the draft but dont feel like paying this if I probably won't see a difference. The factory setting is on high, the little white screw only turns 180 deg. Any thoughts??

    Bookmark   December 1, 2012 at 9:34AM
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I have a 2006 harman accentra. had to replace the blower fan/
the wiring diagram has changed so i wired it to the new diagram. the fan now only blows intermittently. Any ideas on how to fix?

    Bookmark   February 4, 2013 at 7:09PM
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I know this is an old thread, but here is something I found that may help...

"VOLTAGE / POLARITY - The voltage and polarity at the outlet the stove is plugged into is critical. They should be verified at each installation. Voltage should be constant and 115-122 VAC. Low voltage can cause increased ignition times. Polarity can be checked with either a plug in polarity tester or a voltmeter. Incorrect polarity will confuse the control board and cause erratic operation."

The above is from:

    Bookmark   February 27, 2014 at 10:45AM
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Anyone replace their auger on a Harman Pellet stove Accentra auger and know the procedure? Mine never really looked right from the start, it look liked you took a file and filed it thin on both sides about 11-15 mm on the end, looked flat spoonish on the end. You coud see the metal curl over time and sure enough the tip has broken off. I am not sure if it hurts performs having the tip of the auger missing but at some point I would like to replace it. Anyone have instructions on doing this.

About Harman, this is a love/hate relationship:
Couple of things I dislike about Harman and something to keep in mind, Harman Company itself will not help you, if you do get replies they are vague to the point of useless, usually referencing you to a local dealer as the main point. What local dealer? I had to drive 3 hours to the nearest retailer to buy the stove. Many Harman dealers will give you the cold shoulder if they know how far away you are from them. They see less interested in selling you a part and instructions wanting to install it, having one of their people work on it.

With my old sheet metal Breckwell that rattled like a tank, Breckwell listed each part number in the manual, if you were the orginial owner and could prove it they would sell you the part at a huge discount, give you instructions. Most of the motors in a Breckwell are standard stuff and working on a Breckwell is like working on a lawn mower.

Breckwell seem to understand local dealers come and go, not located in every city, people move with their stoves, aka move away from dealers, and that these things are long term investments. I like the auto running model of the Harman over the Breckwell but if I were located in Alaska I would take a Russian like built Breckwell over a Harman any day.

I gave away my old Breckwell, it was a 1990 model, it is on its fourth owner. Gee.

    Bookmark   November 9, 2014 at 3:19PM
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Interesting thing to look out for:

If you stove starts starts to act funny, like the control system just isn't getting things right, the problem could be that bottom fan located under the stove.

Our Accentra Inset is installed in a fireplace that is flush to the floor. It sucks in the dog hair, along with those plastic peanuts that may get loose if you happen to drop one, and other junk. Well our cat will play with the peanut(s) and if she gets near the stove it gets sucked up. I think this is a squirrel cage type fan.

Questions to Harmen customers support was as bad as ever, if they answer, it is always "see a dealer", nearly ignoring their dealers are few and far between, ours is 3 hours away. My main question was "was it OK to tilt the stove over to get to that fan, if not, how to you get to the fan to clean it?". As I say, it fell on deaf ears.

I am not saying you should do this, it may damage the fan,you have been warned, but I duck taped a 3/4 inch hose to a vacuum and forced it under and up. It pulled out enough fur to make 2 furry animals, 2-3 shipping peanuts, some light weight cat toys, and a few wire ties.

What the stove was doing was cutting back on the flame, cycling weirdly, burning badly, oily black stuff in stove. My guess is the small circuit isn't wired or programmed to handle this odd condition and tries to adjust for it.

Anywho, I installed some wire gutter leaf guard material under the front. Bent it to slide in. It catches a lot of dog hair, 2 Australian Shepherds produce a lot of fur, I have to clean it once a week. If your stove is staved for air, you may get erroneous light blinking and this fan problem is a good thing to check.

If anyone knows an easy way to inspect and clean this fan, please post it.

    Bookmark   December 6, 2014 at 10:46AM
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