help with venting custom wood hood

halfwaythereDecember 1, 2012

I've been researching my kitchen reno for months here on these forums. You guys are so awesome and helpful. This is my first post and I really need help. I opted not to go with a KD as I've been through 3 kitchen remodels before and thought I could handle it myself. For the most part I have been but I'm pretty clueless with venting. Previous kitchens either had no vent or one of those all in one metal thingies. This one is a custom wood hood. The pic shows all dimensions except for the actual wood hood. It has not been built yet and the cabinet maker is waiting on me to get vent dimensions. Can you guys advise, based on the existing cabinetry, how high and deep I should go on the bumped out wood hood? The range is a 30" Viking induction and the front burner extends out about 24" The vent was an afterthought on my part and I wish I would have addressed it sooner. I def would have done things differently. I've got 1 week before the cabinet install. It's hard to tell from the pic but the interior width from pull out spice cab to spice cab is 53", from countertop up to underside of upper cab is 50", and depth of spice cabs is 18". I have complete flexibility with that bumped out portion of the wood hood. Also, why are these insert vents so darn expensive??? Can anyone recommend the most reasonable priced insert? I won't even be seen for goodness sake! How much CFM do I need? I can go either built in fan or inline. Even if it's a built in fan, noise won't bother me so that's not an issue. Thanks so much for all your help!

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kaseki

Here are some general suggestions:

Ideally, the hood aperture should encompass the rising and expanding effluent. Where not blocked by the back wall or side cabinets, the expansion angle is within 25 degrees of a vertical line over the pan edges. This expansion can be sketched and bump-out vs. height can be evaluated. If the hood size turns out to be impractically (or unaesthetically) deep, reserve the most noxious cooking for the back hobs.

Ideally, the hood aperture should be high enough to not hit one's head on when bending over the stove, or blocking sight lines into pots, but not higher than necessary. A side view stick figure scale drawing helps here also.

CFM have to be sufficient to remove the captured air from the hood plenum (containment). This requires an air velocity equal to the rising effluent velocity (3 ft/s) over an area that is roughly equal to the aperture area at the baffles. (Some slack here can be tolerated depending on the hood baffles' aerodynamic details.) (Hoods one can stand to be near without ear protection do not suck up effluent from the cook top.) Area (sq. ft.) times velocity (ft/s) times 60 s/min yields CFM. Fans need to have zero static pressure CFM higher than this value by some factor dependent on baffle loss, aperture losses, ducting losses, and fan curve factors. Plan on 1.2 to 1.3 to be safe.

Various CFM rules of thumb (or nose) (or grease accumulation) may be found in various references.

As an exercise for the student of ventilation you wish you had, read the references that may be found at my "clippings."

Neglect not the issue of make up air. MUA is required in many jurisdictions when the CFM are greater than some value. This is a safety issue with combustion appliances. Search MUA on this forum for a second tranche of reading.

kas

    Bookmark   December 1, 2012 at 4:27PM
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halfwaythere

Ummmm, whut????? I know you mean to help but you lost me on "Area (sq. ft.) times velocity (ft/s) times 60 s/min yields CFM". Would a wood hood bumped out to the distance of the front burners suffice (24")? 6 inches beyond the upper cabs looks ok but anything more than that looks awkward in sketchup. I can go up to 9 inches in height without smacking my head into it. Would that be to high of a hood? If not, do I mount the insert to the top of the upper cabs or just above the wood hood? Thanks for your help. Dude, you know your stuff, it's just that your verbage and math is beyond my comprehension.

This post was edited by halfwaythere on Sun, Dec 2, 12 at 1:56

    Bookmark   December 2, 2012 at 12:25AM
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kaseki

One purpose of math is to compactly describe things without a lot of verbiage. You may wish to view multiplication as multiple additions. I don't know how to get any simpler. But I went to grade school long before Timothy Leary promoted self lobotomy, so what has been taught in the decades since to replace math is not known to me.

The insert should be inside the wood hood such that the wood is not directly exposed to potential fire. You may be able to download the installation directions for some manufacturer's insert to see how it is done. (Wolf has on-line installation manual pdf's, I believe.) Or discuss your needs with ModernAire or other potential source of your insert.

For description purposes, it is best to measure hood height (bottom of the insert and surround) by its height above the cooktop surface rather than relative to the cabinets. Typically, 30 inches is the minimum for fire hazard, and beyond 36 inches the required hood size for good capture begins to become inconvenient.

If sketching doesn't provide the insight that you need, then try mocking up the hood with cardboard to see what works for you.

kas

    Bookmark   December 2, 2012 at 8:19AM
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greendesigns_gw

Call ModernAire and have them design a custom insert for you if you've already decided on the externals of the vent. Otherwise, check into their 36" inserts and have the carpenter build the hood around the insert. (That is generally the way it's done, as it's less expensive to use standard ventilation products and custom wood products than the other way around.)

    Bookmark   December 2, 2012 at 2:01PM
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