Blue Star Ignitor issue Redux

kachineeNovember 30, 2007

I read the threads on the ignitor issue when I had an ignition module replaced. Now, a few months later, the same left rear simmer burner lights, but the simmer burner, along with the LF, RF and RR burners keep on clicking.

The Ignition module replaced last time was an Invensys model U-67205-29 made in Brazil. I watched the replacement process so I would not need a tech to replace it,,,, but I do need the part. Because this appears to be a recurrent issue, do you think Bluestar should replace this (even if unit is just out of one year Warranty) or is this my treat every time the ignition module goes bad (twice within just a few months for me)?

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I would contact the service manager at Blue Star right away and explain the situation. Good chance they will send the part for free. Also you don't say what brand and model the replacement unit was?
I really wish that they could get a decent supplier for these and get this problem solved. Gives a great product a black eye.

    Bookmark   November 30, 2007 at 8:32AM
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I have a similar problem with my Blue Star 6 burner range. When I turn on my center burner, I can not get a spark or ignition to the rear one. Vice versa occurs when I turn on the rear and try to ignite the front center. I need to use a match to ignite the opposite burners. My range is 15 months old and out of warranty. The part is an Insensys U-67202-4, also made in Brazil. My range is fairly new, and not used all that much. I think these modules are defective from the manufacturer and should be replaced for free by Prizer...

    Bookmark   December 11, 2007 at 7:28PM
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I got a call from a gentleman at PP. He asked me to fax him the repair record of the last repair that was done (Insensys ignitor replacement). The dealer I purchased from arranged the service last year but they have been unable or unwilling to find the service record now that the unit is out of warranty. I advised Bluestar of this and they just fail to respond. It looks like after the one year warranty, you are not only on your own, you are up the creek with no paddles.
I have not been able to use the simmer burner for months because when you light it, the other burners keep clicking.

I agree with alk. This is a defective ignitor that should be replaced even after the warranty because it is not suitable for its intended use.

I am not sure what to do now. How much time can you spend to get an oven burner working?

    Bookmark   January 14, 2008 at 10:11PM
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I think its a bit rich that PP would have paid for the dealer to fix the range and paid for the part and now ask YOU for the service record. He/She should be able to find it from the serial number.

    Bookmark   January 14, 2008 at 11:16PM
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It was a he, (a Mr. Bloodgood) and yes, I agree that the serial number should have been sufficient coupled with the receipts for my original purchase and a picture of the first ignitor removed from the unit. I guess I will try again when I have time because this has been a long long wait to get this resolved.
I wonder if the new Bluestars still use that brand or model of ignitor module.

    Bookmark   January 15, 2008 at 1:25AM
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I have a 48" Bluestar RNB 6 burner + griddle and I have 2 faulty burners that have never worked since installation in Nov 2007. They light but the igniters continue to rapidly spark as if the burners are not lit. I live in Chicago suburbs and have been unable to get Blue Star to help. They did call once and after I filled out the form on the Prizer website but then never followed through with sending a qualified service person.

The range was brand new out of box and installed on a non GFI circuit by licensed electrician and plumber. I had an appliance repair person who is licensed for Thermador, Wolf etc.. take a look and he can not figure out why this is happening.

I purchased this range in July from a distributor who has now gone out of business so no help there..

I am concerned at the number of these complaints I am seeing and beginning to think Blue Star will not stand behind this range.

If there are enough of us with unesloved igniter issues I can't help but wonder what it takes to start legal proceeding sof some kind?

Any thoughts ??

    Bookmark   January 15, 2008 at 2:39PM
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You say it is on a non GFI circuit, is it a dedicated circuit with NOTHING but the range on it?
I also don't understand why you have not continued to call PP about it. You say they called you once but did not follow up by sending someone. Why didn't you call them back?

Certainly if they are yet again having igniter issues they need to be addressed for everyone that has them as a fault not as an individual service issue. But I am not sure legal action is the answer at this point.
I would like to see them step up and address this issue however.

    Bookmark   January 16, 2008 at 11:16AM
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I have called 2 or 3 times to the new local distributor and 2 or 3 times to Bluestar (PP) but have only ever got voicemail so only left 1 or 2 messages. I was never called back. I filled out the service call form once and that is what prompted them to call me. I copied them (bluestar sales) on email to distributor once.

I also called some local stores to see if they could recommend a repair person, no luck. And I did have a non Bluestar certified appliance tech come in and he could not help me.

I am on a non GFI but not sure on the dedicated circuit. Nowhere in the specs (installation instructions) that came with the range or that we printed from the pp website did it say that the range needed a dedicated circuit.

As far as being more persistant, it was Thanksgiving, then Christmas and I have been busy with that and finishing up other odds and ends of a large remodeling project.

And really, I should not have to do this.... I have never purchased a high end (or a low end!!) appliance with such outrageously poor customer service.

Anyway I am not going to do anything rash nor do I have any idea how many people it would take to even start a lawsuit but the thought has certainly come to mind.

    Bookmark   January 16, 2008 at 4:25PM
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Debbysav......I understand your frustrations, i am correct you got your range from the Oakton sell off sale and not a retailer.

If you would like to give me a call i will make sure someone calls you to arrange a service call.

Unfortunately i am not allowed to post my contact number but i am sure someone on this site will post it for me or my web address.

I assure you if you can get in touch with me it will be fixed as soon as possible and you can get back to cooking on your bluestar range.

    Bookmark   January 16, 2008 at 6:48PM
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Is BlueStar sourcing better ignitors now? I'm getting ready to take the plunge...

    Bookmark   January 17, 2008 at 9:52AM
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Especially since spending thousands on lawyers over a $50 part doesn't make a whole lot of sense.

Like anything else, persistence pays off. It's a busy busy world and no one's going to just take care of things for you.

    Bookmark   January 17, 2008 at 9:56AM
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i'm glad i went with american range.

    Bookmark   January 17, 2008 at 10:11AM
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Ignitors only come from a few sources (like icemakers for refrigs - there's only 2 icemaker mfgs in the entire world) and bad ones definitely crop up periodically. Two years ago there was an issue with ignitors on a number of high-end stoves, whose mfgs had all sourced that part from the same bad batch. Don't kid yourself that American Range, Capital,, are making their own factory ignitors. They outsource it, just like Wolf, Thermador, Viking, BS, etc.

Ceramic ignitors are fragile, and easily cracked or damaged. The upside is when they work, they work very well at relatively low cost and considerable energy savings over the old pilot lights. You'll find them everywhere, including your dryer, furnace and water heater, these days.

Welcome to the global economy! There's upsides and downsides to it, like everything else.

    Bookmark   January 17, 2008 at 1:12PM
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Thought I'd share this with you ignitor-problem-sufferers. About 3 days into owning and using my BS the front left burner wouldn't ignite when the oven was on. The first couple of times I took the top apart and tried to tighten the wire connection. This would work for a short while, and then stop. Eventually I realized that the ignitor wire of that particular burner was not "tied" up to the frame, and as a result it was sitting directly on the drip tray. All the other wires were tied up using those heavy duty plastic twist tie thingys. So, I tied this one up too and haven't had a second of ignitor issues in the 4 or 5 weeks since. Turns out the wire was just getting too hot. I realize that this won't apply to some (or most of you) but may help someone.

    Bookmark   January 17, 2008 at 3:52PM
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I've had a BS RNB48 installed for 6 mos. I posted in Oct. 07 regarding problem with oven ignitor. Happily, it was fixed and no problems with the oven. In Dec. 07, the "seems-to-be-common problem" appeared with the left rear simmer burner igniting and all other burners continued clicking. Fortunately, the technician found that the right front burners were not working properly with the spark module and he installed a new spark module. He said that at the time, he didn't have that particular BS part but that he did have a Thermador spark module and that it was the same as BS. Its been a month since repair, and everything is working smoothly. The only difference is that with the BS module, the clicking was faster before igniting. The Thermador module has less clicks before ignition. Hope that makes sense.

    Bookmark   January 18, 2008 at 1:00PM
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Echoing Keitel that it doesn't hurt to check whether or not the wire is touching the drip tray first. We called someone to look at what I feared was an ignitor problem and it turned out he just needed to strap up one of the wires to keep it from touching the aluminum foil on my drip tray.

    Bookmark   January 18, 2008 at 3:20PM
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In Dec. 07, the "seems-to-be-common problem" appeared with the left rear simmer burner igniting and all other burners continued clicking. Fortunately, the technician found that the right front burners were not working properly with the spark module and he installed a new spark module. He said that at the time, he didn't have that particular BS part but that he did have a Thermador spark module and that it was the same as BS. Its been a month since repair, and everything is working smoothly.

As you said, the IGNITION MODULE is the problem, not the individual ceramic igniters on the burners or some of the other issues brought up by others here. If you can get the Thermador part number on that ignition module that makes the Bluestar burners work, I would appreciate it. I am madder than the anti-Christ at Bluestar. This guy at BS put the burden on me to prove that some service guy that I didn't hire or pay for did what and when. I told him I tried, gave him a picture of the part etc., and no response.
I suppose that the electronic igniter is not a cheap part and that BS doesn't feel like ponying up to replace all the defective ones. If you have a BS and this hasn't happened to you yet, it may only be a matter of time.

    Bookmark   January 20, 2008 at 5:23AM
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I will call the technician to see if he can give me the order # for the part. When I posted, I looked on the invoice to see if he included it, he did not. Hopefully, I can get a hold of them today.

My only concern is that you said this is your 2nd module and I'm keeping my fingers crossed and hoping this Thermador will work for me. As stated earlier by someone else, there were bad ignitors by few manufacturers sold to Thermador, Viking, etc. Lets hope mine's not one of them.

    Bookmark   January 21, 2008 at 10:46AM
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Thank you for your effort. This would be most helpful as the BS man has failed to call me back on this.
It is possible, I suppose , that some improvements were made to the electronic ignitor module and if so, that we can find out what serial numbers were bad, so that we get units that will last.

    Bookmark   January 22, 2008 at 10:26AM
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Spoke with the technician and told him about your problem with the ignitor. He didn't give me the part # because he didn't know if you needed a 6-point module or a 4-point module. It depends on how your burners are formatted, i.e., 6 burners, no grill/griddle; 6 burners with grill/griddle, etc.

He suggested that you give him a call and he will be happy to give you the part number. He offered his direct line at the office and said that if you call and he's not in, leave him a message with your # and he will call you back. His name is Jerry and he's with Carter Services. I believe the office is located in Torrance, CA. (310 618 2604). Good luck and let me know how it all works out.

    Bookmark   January 22, 2008 at 5:12PM
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Thank you cashjulio. I have not been back on the forum for a while and gave up on the rear burner after Bluestar failed to respond to my inquiries. I am very disappointed with Prizer Painter and their failure to address the defective ignition module. Instead of refusing to assist me, the guy just failed or refused to respond. How nice...Anyway, on my unit, the six point module is the one which ignites the four left and right burners. (so I need the six-point module) The four point module ignites the two center burners.
As far as a class action, if more people have this issue something should be done. It doesn't matter that my unit was just out of the one year warranty. This defective part should have been subject to a manufactures recall instead of letting people on their own to figure this out and pay for an expensive part and repair....and not being sure if the problem will just reoccur, as it has with my range. This will be my third ignition module.

    Bookmark   February 17, 2008 at 7:48PM
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I thought I would throw my experience with the bluestar ignitors in, for what it is worth - in the hope that it might help someone who thinks they have a defective ignitor module but really has a different issue.

I have a six burner Bluestar cooktop for about two years now and had the same problem mentioned by many of you -- that is, the simmer burner would light, but when set on very low, its igniter and all of the ignitors on the other burners would continue to fire and click endlessly. In looking at the situation, I concluded that the wire in the center of the porcelain portion of the ignitor (which is located near the burner and is used to light the burner) is also the wire that senses the temperature of the burner and triggers a signal to try to re-ignite it. I also noted that while the wire had good contact with the flame at higher settings, it was not really in the flame when the burner was set very low. So, what I did was get a pair of long nose pliers and very carefully (you don't want to crack the porcelain) bent the ignitor wire so that it was directly over or touching the flame when the burner was set on its very lowest normal setting. This procedure worked and I have had no problems since. Additionally, I also found that getting the wire much closer to the flame also allowed me to lower the flame even more than usual by turning the burner control knob toward the "off" position (rather than fully clockwise). By properly positioning the wire, I was still able to have the burner re-ignite when I intentionally blew it out, even though it was on a very low setting close to the "off" position. (Setting the burner low by turning the control toward "off" is still not recommended since it is possible to turn the burner to a spot where a very low level of gas is being released, but not enough gas to sustain a flame, and that could be dangerous as the re-ignitor will not function properly, will not be able to re-light the burner, and gas will continue to flow. So, exercise extreme caution if you adjust the flame in this manner. (And for those who are curious - yes, I did use the control screw behind the knob to set the flame as low as possible before trying any of the above.)

I hope this helps some of you - who really do not have a defective reignitor - but have merely a minor alignment problem.

    Bookmark   April 11, 2008 at 6:56PM
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I made an error in my prior post. In my April 11 post I referred to turning the burner control knob "fully clockwise" it should have said "counter-clockwise". Sorry for the inconvenience.

    Bookmark   April 12, 2008 at 11:37AM
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We have had a Bluestar for about a year. I just don't get why such an expensive stove can't function properly.

We had the problem of a front burner clicking but not lighting. Finally had it fixed.

The repair guy also discovered a very very small gas leak. Nothing life threatening, so he said, but sheesh.

Not that I plan to buy another stove, but no more Blue Stars.

The stove does look gorgeous though. I had it done in a custom blue color. It's superb. So I guess the paint company is better at paint than mechanics.

    Bookmark   April 28, 2008 at 8:50PM
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I agree with the conclusion of bonnie-in-ca. While there are properties of Blue Star which are attractive - the color and the open burners, the overall production quality is sorely disappointing. I've had my Blue Star (36" 6 burner w/convection oven) for 7 months. It came with two broken electronic ignitors, and a convection fan which sounded like a freight train. Since then I've had another electronic ignitor go on the fritz. The repair people tell me it's a design flaw because they so easily crack during normal use & cleaning. The convection fan replacement was finally installed within the last two weeks - more than 6 months after initial delivery and report of the problem. And I'm in one of the 10 largest cities in the USA. Oh, and when they took apart the oven to replace the motor, they found that one of the brackets holding up the oven bottom had not been fastened to the oven body - again, poor quality assurance. Two different repairmen each said this company is notorious for poor quality assurance, and poor support for their products. Each suggested a Wolf is a better product from the production & support after the sale. I don't know about that, but know I'd never recommend this company. I like cooking on it, but dread the next problem on this almost new product. Not my idea of a top drawer company.

    Bookmark   May 20, 2008 at 12:13AM
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I have had mine for two years. Like Bonnie mine also came with a gas leak. I paid a plumber $100 to fuss with it and eventually to re-pipe the gas line INSIDE the Bluestar. Next was the convection fan oven which ran a bearing. After that, the first Ignition module. Then a couple of the ceramic ignitors which cracked. After that a second ignition module. Now I have two burners out because of the second ignition module going bad. It is out of warranty so it is my treat,,,another $100 for the part alone plus labor.
Blue Star has to try to come up with some igniters that are more durable and an ignition module that is more reliable.
I have been messing with this thing not working properly for most of the two years I have had it. I am down to four working burners out of six and have decided when 3 out of 6 don't work, I will buy all the parts and change them out again.
On the igniters, does anyone know of a source other than Bluestar where I can get a replacement set?

    Bookmark   September 23, 2008 at 1:40PM
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I have two non-working burners, a poorly working broiler, an oven door that flops open and an inconsistent oven temperature on my Bluestar. All remain outstanding issues, despite an extended warranty. Prizer-Painter, and the company that sold it to me, Eurostoves, could care less. These problems were reported from install, 18 months ago, and have been either denied or ignored, or both.

This is the most expensive range I've ever owned, and I curse the day I spent $5,000 on this hunk of junk. If Prizer-Painter really believes my range is working perfectly, and it's all in my head, then they can happily have it back and I'll go out and get one that actually works.

-Susan W.

    Bookmark   October 1, 2008 at 12:11AM
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I have owned a 4 burner Blue Star since October 2006. In September 2008, the spark module failed. At the time, of course, I didn't know what was going on, but the front right burner (as you are facing the stove) would not stop clicking when it was on, and the other three burners (which were turned off) were clicking as well. I sent an email to Blue Star and John Ditizio called me back. At first he thought it might be a bad ignitor, but it turned out to me a faulty ignitor module. John sent me the part (a 6 burner module as they didn't have any 4 burner modules) and enclosed the instructions for replacing the module. My husband and I were able to do the repair ourselves. It was not easy or intuitive! For one thing, you have to be VERY CAREFUL to put the wires you remove back onto the new module in exactly the correct sequence. I suggest that you number or mark them before you remove them. Also, but sure to turn off all electricity to the stove before you start and be sure not to transmit static to the module when you touch it.

The front plate is not hard to remove, but a right angled Phillips head screw driver would have been a great help. Putting the front plate back one was more challenging as it was hard to line up the parts just right.

The module was hard to work with. The wires are bundled and we had to cut the ties right above the module in order to get access to the module's top wires.

The ignitor module is confusing (since we were replacing a 4 ignitor module with a 6 ingitor one). There are 9 wires which attach to the top and 6 to the bottom of the module. The top set had 3 connectors to the right that didn't have anything to do with the burners. (One of those was a grounding wire.) The last two on the left weren't connected to anything since we were putting a 6 burner module into a 4 burner stove. On the bottom row, you have to ground two wires which fit on the 5th and 6th slots of the bottom row (the far left as you look at the module). The plastic covering the additional grounding wires is very tough. You have to stip two wires and twist them together to form one and then attach them to a ground plug and attach them to a screw (which is shown in the instructions that come with the part). The ground plug connector was of poor construction and we had to buy one from the hardware store. (Of course you can't buy just one...they come in a package.) My husband had a tough time stripping the wires. The plastic coating is very hard.

Just to let you know, neither my husband nor I are used to working with wiring or stoves or anything like it. We just muddled through. My husband got the wiring out of sequence and put the dummy wires on the wrong connectors, which meant we had to put the old module back onto the stove before we figured out what we'd screwed up. In addition, he put the bottom row of burner connections on the leads out of sequence. With four burners, we had to keep moving the wires around until we got them on in the correct sequence. THANK GOD we managed to keep the top row of connectors in the correct sequence.

I hope this helps any of you who are doing this repair yourself.

We have rarely used the oven and never used the convection fan, so I don't know what fun awaits us down the road. But at least the burners are working and not clicking now.

    Bookmark   December 21, 2008 at 8:59PM
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I just found this thread after doing a search b/c I, too, am a victim of the "all ignitors click when the simmer burner is on" issue. Has there been any resolution to this on PP's part, other than MAYBE them sending the part to you and having to replace it yourself? My DH and I are NOT DIY'ers - I have visions of us blowing up our house the 1st time we fired it up if we tried something as complicated as annalbin described....

    Bookmark   January 10, 2009 at 12:11AM
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My contractor is starting demolition of the existing kitchen in a few weeks. I've ordered some appliances. However, I have been unsure whether to go with BlueStar. I have seen so many recent posts of problems that have arisen recently as well as with ranges that were installed a couple years ago. The ignitor problem, in another thread, was supposed to have been resolved. There are more and more individuals stating problems with their ranges. Perhaps arising from a surge in orders for Blue Star ranges? This shouldn't be for a 'no frills/no electronics' machine. I am so torn between the Blue Star and Capital Precision. Both cook fine, and I thought I had decided on the Blue Star, but....

    Bookmark   January 10, 2009 at 7:48AM
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Dona, you should call and inquire about the part. it cant hurt. i think in AnnAlbin's case the using a different module may have led to some confusion, but as far as i understand it is as simple as moving one wire at a time from the old to the new.

    Bookmark   January 10, 2009 at 10:30AM
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We bought a bluestar 36" w/ griddle in mid 2006....very happy for the most part, but our simmer burner (which we rarely use) has the same problem...lights, but afterward, all 4 ingitors click. I'm in central Jersey...guess I'll call Reno's, see what they tell me to do. obviously, there is a major issue that needs to be resolved....funny how in 2006, this forum was loaded with all good things, now it's tattered with the left back simmer issue. It's a shame, since we really like everything else with the range

    Bookmark   January 11, 2009 at 12:08AM
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I have to give kudos to Matt Schutte at PP - I filled out the online service request over the weekend. I got an email back today saying the part was being sent to a service co. and that they would call me to schedule the repair once they got the part. My faith has been restored!

    Bookmark   January 12, 2009 at 9:23PM
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Hey Dona, did anyone come to fix your range? For me, I bought a brand new house on Oct. last year and it comes with a RCS304 BS range. Right now whenever I turn on either LR burner or FR burner they will cause all 4 burners keep clicking. I called and talked to Matt a PP. He promised to send parts out to me and would have people call me back in a week for repair. It has been more than a month but I neither receive any parts nor anyone call me back. I resubmmited my issue online but got no reply PP. I don't know what am going to do because my family will throw a warming home party in two weeks.

    Bookmark   February 4, 2009 at 3:02PM
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edmakeover and lyly1 both seem to be air shutter adjustments, the air shutter needs to be opened the burner is not sensing the flame and the auto reignition is trying to relight

    Bookmark   February 5, 2009 at 11:05AM
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Well, we just had our ignitor replaced. Don't know if this helps anyone but, for the record, we bought our 30" RNB stove in April of 2007 but it wasn't installed until September of 2007. About 1.5 - 2 months ago when I turned on the 22k burner the other ignitors wouldn't stop clicking. For a few weeks I could make them stop just by turning the burner on and off again, but then nothing worked and I knew it was time to contact PP. I filled out the online form and didn't hear back for 1.5 weeks. So I called Matt and left a message. Nothing for days. Then I called Matt again and left a message. The same day, John called me back. I'm not sure if it was in response to my email or one of the Matt vmails, but given the timing I'm assuming it was because of the 2nd vmail. He told me the ignitor fix was no longer under warranty but then said he'd send the ignitor to the appliance repair ppl for free anyway--just because. The ignitor took less than a week to get to the appliance ppl and they came yesterday to replace the ignitor. *They* told us it *was* under warranty, so I was confused but grateful the issue was fixed and I didn't have to pay for a known, common defect.

    Bookmark   February 5, 2009 at 6:00PM
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We seem to have some terminology confusion here.

The Sparker / Ignitor is the Ceramic piece from where spark comes from that is screwed to the burner.

The Module is what controls the ignition, if the Module fails then you will get continuous clicking on all burners.

Modules are covered under the warranty, ceramic sparker's are not.

    Bookmark   February 5, 2009 at 7:08PM
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Hey Trevor, thanks for explaining on those two terminologies. Anyway, I just called and talked to Matt at BS. He said that an authorize dealer will contact me either today or tomorrow to schedule for service... so let's see.

    Bookmark   February 9, 2009 at 1:57PM
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Ahhh, thanks Trevor. Now I've got my terminology straight! ;-)

    Bookmark   February 9, 2009 at 5:49PM
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My BS is fully operational again, after being repaired last Wed. YAY!!! The authorized appliance repair co. called me about 2 1/2 weeks after I first emailed Matt at PP to set up the appointment, and then came out and replaced the module (Thanks, Trevor) last week. Good luck!

    Bookmark   February 10, 2009 at 11:46PM
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Just an update. Mine too! It took for awhile but finally the tech from an authorized appliance just came to our house this morning and replaced bad modules. I am so glad that it was fixed today because we are going to have warming house party and my precious prince 1st birthday party this weekend. Thanks everyone!

    Bookmark   February 18, 2009 at 5:38PM
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annalbin (and others), how is the ignitor module holding up. I am getting ready to order mine failed ignitor and replace it.

Anyone figured out why these modules are so crappy? I want my cooktop to last for many many years and not have to replace the ignitor module every other year :(

    Bookmark   April 11, 2009 at 4:26PM
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We were down to two burners on our 2006 30' BS range after continuous clicking occurred even after ignition when we used the other two. Checked the manual, called BS, got right through and spoke to Matt. We pretty quickly established that it was a bum igniter module and that I could replace it myself if I was at all handy (Im OK handy). Ordered the part (4 burner igniter module) for $85 plus $10 shipping and it came in 3 days. I unplugged power to the range and got started.

Wasn't quite sure how to take the front/control panel off and I hadn't gotten specifics from Matt, but it is pretty easy once you remove the knobs and remove three screws above the knobs and two below. The angles are a little tough to get to the upper screws but be patient. Take the drip tray out to give yourself room to get the lower screws. Once the screws are out, gingerly pull the panel forward and it should come off and hang by the wires connected to the switches on either end of the panel. You'll see the igniter module in the center back behind a neatly bundled cluster of wires. I had read a post above from annalbin about modifying a 6-burner module for a 4-burner range and this operation was apparently much simpler since I had the 4-burner module (though BS kindly included instructions for the 6-burner operation). The wires all connect by plugs, so I one-by-one unplugged from the old and re-plugged into the new so as to get the sequencing right. My wires were actually numbered. No cutting or stripping of wires was involved. Once they were all plugged back in to the new module, I unmounted the old module and screwed in the new (with 3 screws easily accessible from under the front 2 burners). Carefully pushed everything back into the space behind the control panel and replaced the panel and screwed it back in. My wife helped hold the panel in place so we could line up the center screw. Plugged the range in and she fired right up on all burners with now continuous clicking. Probably took an hour.

Hopefully this igniter module will last for the life of the range; IÂll be disappointed if it doesnÂt. I thought the response from BlueStar (Prizer-Painter) was actually pretty good. I hate to read negative experiences detailed here and I hope this will help anybody who has a similar problem. Good luck!

    Bookmark   July 15, 2009 at 12:36AM
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