Will this valve kit work for me?

mabeldingeldine_gwOctober 2, 2012

DH and I are preparing to gut our current primary bath, replace the shower plumbing and re-tile over CBU/Hydroban. We will keep the tub but will need to replace the shower/tub diverter valve. This is a DIY job.

We'd like to switch to a rain showerhead, a slide bar mounted handheld, and of course a tub filler. Will the Moen 8343 Double Handle Posi-Temp valve do this? And does this include the tub drain closure? It is a great price compared with most of the others I saw. With this, can I later switch out the showerhead and shower handheld for something nicer?

I am in rural Maine so I laugh when I hear advice to check plumbing supply stores. There is a Frank Webb place about 2 hours from me but I'll never get that time back if I have to travel there more than once!

For what it is worth, we have to reno the bathroom thanks to the POs tile on greenboard approach, but will be putting the house on the market in a year or two so this is not going to be our dream bathroom. We are aiming for nice bathroom for the area but not stupendous. We'll be copying Stacey Neil's AO Ice White shower with a mosaic tile accent on the fixture wall for ease of plumbing and in a niche on the long wall.

Thanks in advance - the GW forum empowered a great budget kitchen reno last year!

Here is a link that might be useful: Moen 8343 valve

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Let me begin by saying that I am a plumber and I can fully sympathize with your attempting to select fixtures from a remote location...

The valve assembly you have shown there will provide all the water controls that you desire....

The tub drain control is part of the tub "Waste & Overflow" kit, which is sold separately.

Allow me to give you some basic information on tub "waste & overflow" kits & P-traps" so you will be sure to get the correct one, and hopefully I can help you save a lot of money.

First off, there are two types. The type most ppl are familiar with is the slip joint type where the drain pipe from the tub drain and the riser up to the overflow are made in two sections and have an adjustable slip joint to permit adjusting the length of each tube to fit your tub.

The slip joint type are primarily intended to be used on clawfoot tubs where the piping is exposed and visible.

If you install a slip joint type waste & overflow and P-Trap in a concealled location such as on a skirted tub code requires that you must have a 12"x12" service access hole either through the adjacent wall or up from the bottom.

For a concealed location that does not have an access panel you are required to use either a brass solder in type or a plastic (PVC or ABS) glue in type.

Unless you have a local code requiring the brass type I would disregard it for a couple reasons:.1. the metal kits are very expensive, 2. Unless you have considerable experience with soldering pipe you will find soldering light guage brass tubing into cast brass fittings is somewhat of an art and generally not within the realm of the DIY'er, 3. There are some very harsh acids that form in drain lines and they can eat right through the brass pipe in 10 or 15 years, whereas plastic is impervious to the acids.

When selecting the waste & overflow you have to select the type of drain control you desire. The basic drain control is the one we are all familiar with where there is a small lever extending out of the center of the overflow cover and you lift it up to stop the drain and push it down to open the drain. With that type they generally supply a small round flat drain cover that fits over the recessed drain opening in the tub. (There is a cross at the bottom of the tubs recessed drain opening and the cover is held in place by a bolt that goes through the cever and screws into a threaded hole in the center of the cross.

The other two common types of tub stoppers is the "Toe-Kick" and the "lift & turn". With the toe-kick type you press down on the drain cover and it locks down in the closed position, when you want to drain the tub you tap it down again and it will pop up to the open position.

The lift & turn is also in the tubs drain opening. To close it you give it a 1/4 turn and it drops down to the closed position, then to open the drain you lift it upwards and turn it 1/4 turn to lock it in the open position.

Generally there are no markings on the drain covers to indicate who made them so even if you are into the bragging rights of brand names, I would highly consider just using a generic waste & overflow kit. The difference here being that if you buy the high end desinger label you can expect to pay $150 or more, whereas you can get a generic kit for $20 to $25 and in all probability the are both the same kit....LOL

    Bookmark   October 2, 2012 at 4:09PM
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Lazypup, thank you! That is very helpful information.

In retrospect that should have been obvious to me. The drain closure is currently not working but we never use it so I haven't thought about it. I hope our piping is pvc -- it is accessible from the fixture wall and the basement below.

Do you have recommendations on the most durable type? (not into brands, but love durability!)

    Bookmark   October 2, 2012 at 4:24PM
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A second word of thanks to Lazypup for your constant help on GW forums.

    Bookmark   October 3, 2012 at 9:33AM
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