Imperial Island Range Hoods? (Or others)

herbertlewAugust 21, 2014

I was going to post a question as to what $2000 can buy for a range hood, but someone else already posted that question and I got some great advice there.

I purchased a 30 inch American Range Performer model ARROB-430 with total 80,000 BTU. I am looking for an island hood, 36 inches, depth of 24 or more inches. Per my research, the two companies offering what I need for my budget are Imperial and then mabye Zephyr. Imperial offers much more island hood styles and CFM configurations.

Other than Imperial, are there other brands that would work for me for my budget of $2500?

I have attached a picture of where the new range will go. My contractor will saw away part of the granite and replace the Jenn Air downdraft cooktop with the new range.

A few feet away from the range is a wood stove with a pipe and vent going through the roof. My wife hates the stove and will have it taken away.

Would there be any benefit in running/tying the new duct to this vent hole...which I think is only 6" in diameter...

Or should I have the contractor patch up the existing vent hole for the stove and cut open a new one for the range?

Last, probably the two most important critera is the ability to get rid of fumes/grease/smoke, and right up there is "looks." I say "looks" only because as you can from see from the attached picture, the hood will be in an area/open space adjoining to my family room--a direct sight from tne family room.


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The existing vent on the roof is currently the vent for the wood stove.

    Bookmark   August 21, 2014 at 3:54PM
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The basic issue is that one can't have performance, affordability, and aesthetics at the same time. Some choose affordability and aesthetics and live with marginal ventilation. Others are forced to use affordable but perhaps not pretty designs to meet performance. Others pay the price of performance and aesthetics.

I am not going to recommend any hoods that I haven't used, so perhaps someone else can advise you on that point.

With respect to duct path, it needs to be a diameter appropriate for the hood you select. it should also take a straight shot up to the ceiling, but above the ceiling it could be angled or straight depending on many factors, such as what is in the attic. I would probably go straight to the roof with a roof cap or blower on the roof, and, having removed the chimney, put an attic vent fan in place of the present chimney. That might depend on how well your passive attic ventilation works and the temperature that the attic gets to.


    Bookmark   August 22, 2014 at 12:47PM
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I put an order yesterday to purchase an 1425 CFM Imperial Hood, model:

Please help. Have a question regarding intall. This is a twin blower hood, requiring TWO 8" ducts. My initial plan was to tie in to the existing 10" chimney duct using two 45 degree elbows and a "Y" connector. I am doing this to save the contractor some work, and my thought was since my range is only a 4 burner 60,000 btu range...I was willing to sacrifice some of the CFM's.

Imperial Customer Service told me that if I use the connector it will decrease the CFM from 1425 to at least 1000. Plus with the additional two elbows, this will probably decrease more CFM.

I guess I want to confirm with memebers here, that my idea of tying into the existing duct is a "BAD" idea.

If so, I'll take Kas' advice: run the duct straight up, open another hole in the roof, and then either sealing the existing hole or use it for ventilation....

Hood is coming in two weeks, any thoughts is greatly appreciated.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 12:13PM
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A single merged duct should be of such size that the square of its diameter equals the sum of the squares of the two properly sized ducts feeding it. So for two 8-inch ducts, the single duct diameter should be the square root of 2 times 8, which is closer to 12 inches than 10 inches. I would estimate that for a DIY project, two 8-inch ducts will be less difficult to install than wrestling a single 12-inch duct, but that can be house configuration dependent. And the Y will add more losses than straight sections.

Sourcing a 12-inch roof cap (that doesn't look like an up-blast restaurant blower) is another possible problem for the combined path option.

Of course, one could get a hood without fans and use an up-blast blower on the roof, configuring it so that one obtained the flow rate desired given the losses in whatever ducting was used. Some possible inconveniences might arise trying to control the blower from the hood.


    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 2:26PM
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Thanks Kas. I've told the handyman to do it correctly, but closing up the existing chimney hole, and running the twin blower ducts straight up.

Funny thing with this Imperial Hood though. I called their customer service and they said the actual diameter of each blower hole on the hood is 7 inches wide, BUT they include a transition for 8"?!

I didn't ask why they did it this way. That is, having an existing hole of 7" , but including a transition to 8".

    Bookmark   August 31, 2014 at 12:40AM
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I think that they are just trying to reduce the duct friction contribution to overall pressure loss. The 7-inch hole probably matches the modest blower exit diameter. Also, 8-inches is a standard duct size.

If the hood doesn't come supplied with them, each duct should have a damper that keeps out back-drafts from wind and heat loss from rising air. The roof cap may have a damper as an integral part.


    Bookmark   August 31, 2014 at 10:44AM
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