Bathroom Tub/Cement Board Screw Up? Need Help Quick

ms222September 27, 2012

My contractor is coming over tomorrow and I need help quick with some questions. I have a project going now, where they did not extend the durock past the tile flange, and you can see the ugly black screws that secure the bathtub to the studs. When I spoke to them about it, they said not to worry, that they will add mud around the tile flange area and then the tile guy will float it so that the tile is correctly aligned and covers the cement board and the mud they will add. Will this method work?

It seems to me that they should have shimmed the studs to allow extra space for the durock to extend all the way down to the flange. What would your recommendation be in this scenario? I want to solve this before moving forward.

Also from the picture, you can see that they placed cement board all the way to where an exit door is. I want to place 3" bullnose right passed the edge of the bathtub, but the rest I want to be painted and then have a door trim and pine wood baseboard. Wouldn't that area have to have a small strip of cement board for the bullnose, but the rest should be drywall to allow for the door trim and pine wood baseboard? Thanks for the help guys!

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ms222

I still would like to know the correct way for the second part of my question which was

"I want to place 3" bullnose right passed the edge of the bathtub, but the rest I want to be painted and then have a door trim and pine wood baseboard. Wouldn't that area have to have a small strip of cement board for the bullnose, but the rest should be drywall to allow for the door trim and pine wood baseboard? Thanks for the help guys! "

    Bookmark   September 27, 2012 at 12:34AM
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ms222

Anyone please?

    Bookmark   September 27, 2012 at 8:06AM
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kmcg

I'm right at the same stage, and I had researched the issue obsessively because of seeing posts here and on the john bridge forum about how, exactly, the durock meets the flange (in my case on a Kohler shower base, but it seems very similar). Catmom posted about her husband's experience with the shower base, so you might search for that. It seems there are 2 approaches: fur out the studs as Kohler suggests, or notch the studs so the durock sits right above the flange. You also need to make sure the waterproof barrier (black plastic in my case) goes behind the durock, and overlaps the flange enough so it can get trimmed and then siliconed to the edge of the durock. I believe that the tile will extend slightly below the bottom edge of the durock, so you'll kind of curl the black plastic up behind the tile and sealing it to the flange. So far, my guys seem to have done it correctly.

As for the second question, I think you just need to ask them to trim and remove the durock. I think they assume you want to tile all the way to the door frame, if I'm interpreting your photo correctly.

I'm no expert, but I hope my explanation makes sense! Good luck today.

    Bookmark   September 27, 2012 at 12:37PM
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ms222

Thanks, yes one problem is there is faced aa2 vapor shield insulation attached to the studs and behind the durock. However, there is no vapor barrier, so I am concerned that water will get through grout and the porcelain, go into the cement board, and then permeate through the cement board, getting the insulation paper wet and then to the studs and having issues.

How much of a real issue is it in terms of water moisture? Is that something that is overplayed here and wont truly effect the integrity of the shower is it a real problem?

    Bookmark   September 27, 2012 at 2:01PM
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kmcg

How much of a real problem? I don't have any first hand experience, but the experts around here are pretty convincing about the possibility that moisture will get through the cement board and then hit the studs - potentially causing mold. Any chance your insulation will protect the studs from water?

Here's a recent thread involving some very good advice...

Here is a link that might be useful: shower prep thread

    Bookmark   September 27, 2012 at 7:03PM
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