Any Wolf gurus in the house - clicking burners

chefwongJuly 28, 2009

Since Week 3 of owning our Wolf DF304 stove, we have had occasional issues with clicking burners. We have had at least 3-4 visits by the Wolf service tech and we just stopped calling them..

It's gotten to the point now that it's driving me insane. It will go *clicking* forever and I will leave it alone, and come back to use the burner 20 minutes later after spending 20+ minutes getting the burner to operate click free and when I use's not clicking.

Any idea or advice you can point me to on how to make these damm burners stop clicking..

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Are the metal circle discs in the center of the burners (burner covers) seated correctly?
I'm stumped. Never had that problem with mine. The grill unit will click-tick for the first few minutes, then it stops by itself.
Friend of mine has a Miele gas range. Her burners click 100% of the time- and she says the salesperson told her that was the way it was supposed to be!!!!!!!

    Bookmark   July 28, 2009 at 10:26PM
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Yes, they are seated right. The initial things the Wolf tech would do would be to remove the discs and actually slightly loosen or tighten the brass nut under the cover. It's been at least a year since he has been here.

Tonight I couldn't take it. I had 2 burners that was doing this.....and fidgeting with it while other burners were cooking away was not fun. Lo and behold, I decide to use it again and it's click free...

I wish there was a definitive answer/resolution to this...

    Bookmark   July 28, 2009 at 10:41PM
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Any chance the burners or ignitors are wet - my DCS burners will click for a while when wet but then stop. Could also be a faulty ignition module.

    Bookmark   July 28, 2009 at 10:46PM
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Check the polarity of your electrical outlet. You can buy a little three prong tester at the hardware store - the most difficult step will be pulling out the range to get to the plug/cord.

We just purchased a 30" RNB BlueStar range and had a similar problem -- clicking drives me nuts. When we checked and fixed the polarity - the problem was 100% resolved.

Here is a link that might be useful: polarity tester

    Bookmark   July 28, 2009 at 11:34PM
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Polarity, spills or air shutters.

    Bookmark   July 29, 2009 at 8:55AM
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Air Shutters. Can you explain or clarify on this.

I don't expect it to be a polarity issue as when the kitchen was gutted and redone, all receptables were done as well. Let me double check...I have to undo it from the box, a simple tester won't work as it has got a beefy receptacle on it.

    Bookmark   July 29, 2009 at 1:08PM
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chef -

if a plug fits in the recpt. , then the tester will too.

No need to undo the plate and recpt.

    Bookmark   July 29, 2009 at 10:07PM
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The plug is a 220 30 AMP. Not your normal sized receptacle -- where a standard tester works. Something like this

Anyhow, I just confirmed the wiring. Looks correct to me.

Any other suggestions....

    Bookmark   July 29, 2009 at 10:45PM
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Don't assume because your kitchen was gutted and all the electrical work redone that the polarity is correct.

Our kitchen was gutted and rewired, when we experienced the polarity problem -- I asked our electrician to check the polarity, and he admitted that the helper (since fired)who wired the outlet could very well have wired it incorrectly... he did and it's now fixed.

    Bookmark   July 29, 2009 at 11:10PM
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I hear ya.....hots are on brass, neutral is correct.

I'm starting to notice a trend or not. Seems like when one is acting up, whether it be the front or back, the corresponding alternate - front clicking, the back will click too.

or vice versa...

Maybe it's coincidental ?

    Bookmark   July 29, 2009 at 11:17PM
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on ranges these days, when one burner clicks, they all click - that's how it works - only the one with the gas turned on will ignite

    Bookmark   July 30, 2009 at 12:10AM
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If it is moisture from wiping down the top before cooking, that seems to stop in just a minute or so. I once had to get a small cleaning brush and brush off the area -- apparently some small amount of cleaner or debris got stuck and it might have clicked forever.

    Bookmark   July 30, 2009 at 1:35AM
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>>on ranges these days, when one burner clicks, they all click

On my Wolf dual fuel only the burner for use clicks.

    Bookmark   July 30, 2009 at 8:39AM
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sorry chef- I thought we were talking a rangetop here, not the range, my mistake.

    Bookmark   July 30, 2009 at 9:19AM
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We have this problem with the DCS that we installed. We never have gotten solved completely. Sometimes the burner (any of them, just using singular for the example) will click and click but not light, sometimes it will light but keep clicking.

According to the DCS brochure, this means the ignitors need cleaning. However, sometimes I could clean them daily with a toothbrush and mineral spirits, and still have the problem. I've also taken apart the burners and cleaned the simmer plates. I did also have the spark module replaced, since the DCS tech thought that might be a problem.

The only clue I have is that it really makes a difference what's used to clean the stove. Our old cleaning lady used to use Easy Off, despite my telling her repeatedly not to, and it would gum up the ignitors. We've had much better luck with Windex-type cleaners.

    Bookmark   August 2, 2009 at 12:54AM
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I couldn't take it any's been at least 1 year + since I had the Wolf service rep over but I have them scheduled for next week.

How common is clicking burners on $$$$ stoves or is it just the nature of the beast - due to design - electrical ignitors.

Our previous vintage stove.....while always had a gas pilot on....was never as troublesome in this dept.

There are times where I will use the stove in the evening click free. Come early morning, it's clicking again.

    Bookmark   August 2, 2009 at 2:40AM
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a bad connection.

one of my burners started clicking.. It worked fine for 10 years but just started clicking (continuing to spark) after the burner was lit. the flame was fine so it was definitely in the ignition circuit somewhere. I pulled the burner off (disconnect the gas line to the burner first) and the wire that goes to the ceramic spark post fell out -- it was corroded. I soldered an extension piece into the wire so that I'd have some slack to work with, cleaned up the end (cut, stripped about a half inch) put some solder on it to stiffen it up, reinserted it into the ceramic post, hooked up the gas and it works again.

so, a loose or corroded connection up inside the ceramic starter post is the likely culprit for others with similar problems. It seems to me that if you have the range top apart for cleaning, then the wires to the ignition posts could easily get bumped which pull them out enough to cause this problem.

    Bookmark   December 5, 2013 at 12:41PM
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chefwong, if you're still around I'd love to hear if you got the problem fixed. I just bought a Wolf, so would like to hear if any of the suggestions worked or Wolf finally figured it out.

Thank you for letting us know if it got resolved. I hope it did.

    Bookmark   December 5, 2013 at 11:19PM
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I have an older Wolf stove. I have never been able to get the electronic ignition for the burners ot work for more than a few weeks after the repair man leaves but I have lots of matches.
A few months ago the flame on two front burners got quite yellow with the result that pots got black bottoms. So I called in the Wolf technician for the area. There is no model number on the those but he took a picture and figured it out. He said I needed some new parts which are no longer available here in Mexico. So he modified some parts from somewhere so the two front beurners still are sooty but the two back ones are annoying. When on high they work fine but when I lower the heat to simmer they start to click continuously. I assumed this was the electronic ignition. Quite annoying. For simmer I've found I can move the pots to the two front burners which on low don't soot up the pots or click. I don't know what to do as the Wolf technician refuses to come back.

    Bookmark   on Tuesday at 2:32PM
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Ryan Shaw

When you say clicking do you mean the igniters are sparking? It's the way the things are built. As far as sooting you may have a dirty jet. People who use gas welders and cutting torches are familiar with dirty jets. Its the same concept. I work on home appliances for a living and if you want I can explain how the igniters work and why when 1 sparks they're all supposed to.

    Bookmark   on Tuesday at 7:41PM
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I thought it was the igniters making the noise but maybe not. The clicking wasn't there previously. Dirty jets-I'll have to check them out.

    Bookmark   Yesterday at 10:42AM
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