help please with ventilation

kateskourosJuly 31, 2008

i am ordering a 48" captital range w/ six burners and a griddle. appliance salesman "A" says i can use a Best by Broan P8 (850 cpm blower) with a PIK45 insert.

i speak to appliance salesman "B" and he insists i need a P1952M70CMSS (1100 cfm blower) with a PK2238 power pack.

i know NOTHING about ventilation issues so please forgive my ignorance. the range will back an outside wall so sending the smoke outside will be pretty easy. thanks in advance for your help.

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

anyone who insists you need anything is full of it.

salesman A's recommendation is fine.

salesman B's recommendation is good too, although probably overkill.

the dimensions of your hood is probably a more important factor than the actual CFM capacity. although that's also something to consider.

for a 48" range, you should be going with a 54" wide hood, and probably looking for something that's at least 24" deep as well.

that will give you good capture area. unless you plan on doing a lot of high heat cooking on many burners at a time, or your cooking style will have you using all six burners and your griddle quite often, i'd say that you'll be fine with 900-1000 CFM's.

there is a ventilation FAQ around here somewhere....

    Bookmark   July 31, 2008 at 6:19PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Kate - I too am planning on ordering the same range. Are you ordering the manual clean or self clean version. Would you mind telling me where you're ordering from. I too am venting out a back wall and salesman "C" told me I could get away with 600 CFM but I might as well go for 1200 CFM for the extra $200. I'm looking at Prestige hoods, for now.

    Bookmark   July 31, 2008 at 7:00PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

>>but I might as well go for 1200 CFM for the extra $200

depending on how tight your house is and what code is in your area, you might need makeup air with 1200 CFM and that will cost you a lot more than $200

    Bookmark   July 31, 2008 at 7:16PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

hmmm... the 850 cfm hood is 45" x 24". is this not sufficient fo a 48" range? does anyone have a recommendation? thanks again.

malhgold: i will probably order from the better housekeeping shop in red bank. close to our house and they're very reputable.

    Bookmark   July 31, 2008 at 8:13PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

buying a hood that's three inches narrower than your range doesn't seem like a good idea. anytime you have anything going on the outer burners, any smoke or steam that's generated won't even be under the hood. that is a recipe for poor ventilation.

your hood should be at minimum as wide as your cooking surface. three inches overlap on either side is recommended.

i think you'd be fine with a 54" wide x 24" deep hood with 850 CFM. it's tempting to skimp on's not really a sexy purchase. but you'll likely regret it later.

    Bookmark   July 31, 2008 at 9:05PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I agree and disagree with many comments here but we have butted heads on this one before and it is indeed a matter of personal preference and experience often.

I don't think anyone who insists on anything is full of it if they know what they are talking about. In this case, I agree that a minimum of 1100 CFMs for a 48 inch unit is a must from my experience.

I agree that capture area is just as important. Both should be sized for ideal operation. IMO, ideal operation is when both the capture area and CFMs are a bit oversized. I like the concept that the ventilation is designed to run at about half speed for everyday normal (but involved) cooking. Maximum power is reserved for peak situations like grilling or blackening etc. I can tell you that the 900 CFM 36 inch Wolf hood (the extra deep unit w/heat lamps) I had matched with their 36 inch range just barely kept up with day to day cooking on high and half speed was an option only when I was shutting down to simmer and warm mode just before serving.

As to make up air, it does not have to be expensive and, although I am no expert, I have not heard it raised as a code concern in a residential setting. We did have to add a make up air source for our current setup but it is passive meaning it provides an outside source for the hood to pull from and does not "force air" into the area. It works just fine. Before the make up air unit was finished off by the HVAC guys just after moveing in (long story) we used another mode of make up air...a very slightly cracked window. It worked pretty well to.

I strongly agree with others that although your ventilation is not a sexy purchase (unless of course you are commissioning someone like Abakka to custom make one for you) you will regret skimping on it if you do. At a minimum, capture should be the same siz as the unit and ideally 6-12 inches wider (3-6 inches either side) and deeper as well. And, to beat a dead horse, use the BTU per CFM guidelines (can't remember what they are) and round up. Always remember, if you put in too many CFMs, you can just turn your unit down. If you don't have enough, your only option is to buy a bigger blower and pay for a redo.

    Bookmark   July 31, 2008 at 9:46PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

As edlakin and weissman know I'm in the "more is better" camp on the cfm issue.

They are dead right about hood dimensions. 54'' is a good minimum. I think 45'' is nuts--it will look funny, it will not ventilate well, and any cost savings would be minimal.

I'd make similar arguments for cfm capacity. As a general rule, increasing cfm costs relatively little. The benefit is being able to handle any cooking situation. You're getting a huge stove, relatively, and one that puts out significant BTU's.

weissman and I disagree about need for makeup air: unless you are 1) in a very cold climate where opening a window is out of the question for a substantial part of the year 2) have a very newly constructed, extremely tightly insulated house or 3) live in an area where code requires makeup air, it is not essential.

I'd also disagree that 600 cfm is clearly adequate. I have a 600 cfm VAH hood over a Dacor PGM 365 cooktop at the lake house and I clearly can overwhelm the hood with a modicum of effort--say some searing. If you're going for a high end, ultra high performance range, it seems a shame to compromise on ventilation.

Are you definitely committed to these unusual "hide it in a fake cabinet" style of hood liner? Because I'd otherwise look at a pro-style hood liner in a custom hood from one of the top notch suppliers like Prestige, Independent and ModernAire.

    Bookmark   July 31, 2008 at 9:50PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

The FAQ can be found at the top of the forum page listing the topics.

Hope to treat this stuff in detail in a FAQ supplement if I can ever find the time:

Whenever you cook something on a burner, no matter what type, effluent from the cooking process is produced and rises due to being hotter than the ambient air. In addition, burner heat warms the air around the pan (very little in the case of an induction hob), and this air rises. When cooking with gas, the combustion products are also hot and rise with the effluent.

So depending on the cooking method, more or less effluent is produced. At a minimum, one is only generating moist air and the requirement for ventilation is more or less voluntary; at a maximum, carbon monoxide is contained in the effluent and ventilation is mandatory. It is also mandatory if you don't like odors in the house, or grease on the walls.

A cooking ventilation system has to perform two functions, capture and containment. Capture is what the hood does, but a hood alone will let the effluent curl back down and spread into your house. Containment is what the cubic feet per minute (cfm) do, along with the depth and shape of the hood.

Because the effluent expands as it rises, it is necessary for capture that the hood overlap the burner areas as extended by the pan diameters that one is using. The overlap is nominally stated as three inches, but in reality depends on several factors I won't belabor in this message. So go as large as you can fit and afford, but never smaller than the cooktop width.

The cfm have to be high enough, and the hood deep enough, that the captured efflent be contained and ejected via the exhaust system. If the hood is too shallow or cfms too low, the effluent momentum causes it to curl out of the hood and escape into the house. There are several (at least) rules of thumb for how much cfm one needs, and these vary with hood size and type of cooking being performed. You can find rules of thumb at various on-line sites.

However, no matter how precise you calculate effluent flow rates, you can't predict exactly what is needed to get a given hood to contain the effuent in the presence of local air motion, pressure drops in the exhaust, house tightness, what is being cooked at what temperature, etc., without extensive and technical means of measurement. Or, you can overdesign and run the exhaust fan at a lower level as required and use your nose as the measurement tool.

I would recommend that the minimum flow rate (and please note that this is the flow rate obtained at zero static pressure across the exhaust fan and not the lower value that the exhaust system can actually achieve) you adopt is that specified for the nearest comparable cooktop in the back of the Wolf Design Guide, available on Wolf's web site. It embeds at least the rule of thumb that Wolf is comfortable using.

As an aside, I would assume that most persons buying 48-inch stoves intend to use them at levels higher than 30-inch stoves can manage. This implies a need for more cfm. Also, to keep velocities up to assure containment in the larger hood, yet more cfm are needed. And we haven't even addressed what the ovens might be doing that is hard to capture, but needs to be removed from the house air in a reasonable time. Underestimating the desirable cfm may prove more regrettable than overestimating it.


    Bookmark   July 31, 2008 at 10:04PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Just one point - the OP is talking about a 45" LINER - with the hood itself, it will be 48" or more so it shouldn't look funny.

    Bookmark   July 31, 2008 at 10:07PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

okay... thank you all for those very thorough opinions and explanations. somehow i knew i could count on you all to help me out! so, i guess i'm going with the 1100 cfm blower. at least, that's how i understood it...
(her eyes bulge out of her head as she tries desperately to process...)

and for clinresga:
"Are you definitely committed to these unusual "hide it in a fake cabinet" style of hood liner? Because I'd otherwise look at a pro-style hood liner in a custom hood from one of the top notch suppliers like Prestige, Independent and ModernAire."

while i am not married to it, i am sort of engaged to a lovely handcrafted cabinet style hood liner my cabinetmaker will install. is this a horrible mistake?

    Bookmark   July 31, 2008 at 10:58PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Re: Make-up air... Definitely check into your local building codes before you decide on a gas appliance, particularly if you choose a large one. I live in one of those northern cold climates, where new house building codes specify sealed construction with high efficiency heating systems. Even though my house is 45 yrs old and leaks like a sieve, I'm subject to the new codes for renovations. Every kitchen vent blowing more than 300 cfm here, requires make-up air. My 600 cfm unit requires heated make-up air. My vent system is costing me more than my 36" DCS AG. I'm so glad (and so is my GC!) that I didn't set my heart on an indoor grill, or anything needing 1200 cfm. It would be cheaper to eat out every day.

Anyway, I know such codes don't apply to every jurisdiction, but it was a definite eye-opener to me. This is the single most expensive component of my kitchen reno, and I'm just glad that I found out about it early enough, and I could figure out ways to afford it. I'm really tired of cooking on an underpowered unventilated cooktop.

    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 12:40AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

kaseki: that continues to be the single most cogent and helpful post on hoods that I've seen on GW. It really needs to be added to the FAQ. I wish you'd added it to the current thread on how effective a Futuro 48'' "flat plate" Euro hood (no sides) with a 6'' duct was going to be!

Be careful!

I have no problem with what you are doing. That's exactly what I was suggesting.

I'm worried you're getting bad advice on the hood choices though. It's confusing! If I search the model numbers you list in your OP on the Broan website, and all but one are not listed. However, if I Google them, this is what I find:

The P1952M70CMSS is a 28'' custom hood insert with an 800 cfm internal blower.

The PK2238 is NOT a power pack: it is a different custom hood available in 48, 54, and 60'' widths. It has a 1000 cfm internal blower.

Thus, you wouldn't want both!!

The Broan P8 is a power pack: it's an internal 850 cfm unit.

The PIK45 is yet another custom hood liner. It comes only as a 45'' width. It would work with an internal blower like the P8, or up to an 1100 cfm inline blower (which you would mount in the attic) or up to a 1500 cfm external blower (mounted on roof or exterior wall).

So...the second combination makes sense, if you are absolutely wedded to a 45'' hood liner. If so (i.e. your custom enclosure is 48'' wide and can't be changed) then it seems like a reasonable choice. Online the hood looks to be around $700 and the P8 around 400, so at $1100, it's a pretty low price for that sized liner.

I'm not crazy about the 850 cfm internal blower. If technically feasible I'd much prefer an inline or external blower--would allow more adequate cfm's and also reduce, though not eliminate, the noise when running.

I don't think the Broans are a bad idea, I just think your appliance sales guys are idiots. If you want to be TKO, check out other options before buying. I know Modern-Aire can custom size a hood liner to your exact dimensions:

Modern-Aire Ventilating

and Jeff Herman there (ask for him on the phone) is incredibly helpful.

Others have also spoken highly of Trevor at Eurostoves who can supply Prestige hoods. And there is Independent, and Metallo Arts, and others.

Don't freak out. There are, strangely, a ton of folks on this Forum who would love to help out.

    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 8:41AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo


i can't thank you enough... but let me ask you, if you were me, buying a 48" capital six burner w/griddle what would YOU use for ventilation?
space shouldn't be a problem since the range will be centered between two windows, and there is 12" to each side before hitting the moulding. since this is a new build we can also size down to narrower windows if need be. (although i'd rather not). see link for what i want it to look like.

or if i called modern-aire, how would their pricing compare?
are you sick of me yet?

Here is a link that might be useful:

    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 9:17AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Nah, the folks on this forum love this kind of stuff.

I think a major league range like that deserves equally high performing ventilation. I'm a fan (sorry...) of companies that are dedicated to ventilation hoods. Thus my first choices tend not to be large appliance manufacturers like Wolf (which outsources some of their hoods to Independent, I believe).

You've got tons of space. As kaseki points out, the lateral drift of fumes really demands that the hood extends beyond the actual range top--adequate "capture area." Certainly that is easily done with width for you, and I'd suggest a 54'' width as a minimum.

Depth is more tricky: standard depths are 24'' but some manufacturers also offer 27''. Deeper hoods clearly perform better but start to raise the issue of taller cooks hitting their heads on the hood, particularly if you're doing what is recommended and putting the bottom of the hood no more than 30'' from the range top.

Since you're using a custom enclosure, you can go with a "pro style" hood liner. These are typically deeper than "residential built in" hood inserts, often built with heavier gauge steel, and usually offer a baffled filtration system (a series of metal bars that trap grease as it is pulled into the hood). While there is controversy, most on GW appear to prefer baffles. They are easy to clean (throw them in the DW). and appear to perform well (they are what almost all commercial restaurant hoods use). There are other options (mesh filters, and one system where grease is supposed to drip into a can, which sounds goofy) but baffles are a safe bet.

Beyond the choice of the actual hood liner, you also have to decide on what type of blower to use. Internal blowers are the most commonly used. They are easy to install. Disadvantage is that the motor running adds to the noise of the hood.

Alternative is some type of remotely mounted blower. Inline blowers are placed "in line" with the duct work and placed in the attic or other interior location. External blowers mount to roof or external wall of house. Both offer higher cfm ratings than internal blowers, and eliminates the motor noise (particularly if you use a silencer--i.e. Fantech LD10-- ahead of the blower). Obviously these are much more of a hassle to install, and many folks just don't have the space or location to use one. But, they are the highest performing options in terms of both airflow and noise.

Another advantage of hood liners that can use external fans is that it allows you to choose any brand of blower.

Since you're obsessive enough to have posted on GW, and to have found the Capital range, which is an "insider's choice," I think you deserve to research ventilation a bit more. I'd look at at least one more option before buying.

FYI, what we have ordered for the main house is a custom 64'' Modern-Aire hood liner, coupled with a Fantech FKD10XL inline blower and the LD10 silencer running through 10'' ductwork up through the wall (which was tricky) and then out through the attic, where the blower will be, through the roof.

Cost wise, blowers are pretty much competitive for similar capacities so that's not going to change your cost much. A Modern-Aire liner will be a few hundred more I suspect than an "off the shelf" model but it allows you to completely customize the dimensions, location of ductwork, location of electrical connections, and location of controls. The combination we are using allows use of a continuously variable speed control (rather than the typical three speed off-low-high), and the control will be mounted on the wall beside the range (no more bending to peer up into the hood to find the on/off switch).

I would never suggest that this is the only option. We were just lucky enough to be in a state (Ga.) where they had no distributor so I could deal directly with the factory. The other companies I've mentioned also get great feedback here and others will post additional suggestions I suspect.

Good luck, keep posting questions.

    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 11:11AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I'm putting in a Blue Star 48, and my ventilation will be a 48 Independent Incline with heat lamps (27" deep) with a remote 1400cfm blower (mounted on the roof about 4 ft up). In our new Kitchen design we were eliminating a fair amount of upper cabinets (also reusing existing ones) so that although desireable it would have been tough to go wider than 48". My question is related but not specifically about the hood.

I opted out of Blue Stars stainless 21" back with Warming shelf and got the island trim instead so that 1) it gives us more pot/pan room on the burners and 2) we wanted a tile backsplash. We still want a shelf though. Now the Wolf, Viking and some other back splash shelf units are vented so that gases can pass through easier, blue Stars are not and neither are any of the after market SS shelves I have found. All the shelf units I'm looking at are 10" deep, meaning about 8" stick out over the cook top about 20-24" above it. Here is the question, how much of a ventilation problem if any will this cause? Any thoughts or suggestions? thanks.

    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 11:40AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

again my thanks... i'm going to take a look at the modern-aire as well as research further. it was actually "fun" researching the range and dishwashers and other things like that. the ventilation ...not so much.
i suppose it's because i fantasize about standing at my range preparing a bernaise sauce or opening the door to that stunning thermador refrigerator tower... the dream does not include flipping the switch to turn on the fan. definitely not as romantic.

    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 11:48AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

jeffreyem - I'd skip the shelf - not only might it interfere with the ventilation but you'll have to reach over the burners to put things on it and take things off - what are you thinking about using it for?

    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 12:57PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Well there are warming lights on the hood, my intention was to place plates or platters there while waiting for additional ingredients. I also like the idea of keeping (not storing) oils and spices up there during the cooking process for quick access. I don't think reaching over is an issue with a 48" cook top there should be enough width there unless I have all the burners going. I guess why would they make warming lights on hoods or offer shelves if they wern't to be used for something?

    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 2:26PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

jeffreyem: I don't think the shelf will hurt much. It will tend to push fumes forward, which is fine as that's towards the center of the hood anyway. You'll get a little that is diverted laterally which may cause some increased spillover from each end but with only 8'' protruding I just can't see it having a major impact.

katekouros: what's not romantic to me is sitting with my wife after dinner with a glass of wine at the island with the kitchen reeking of garlic. That's why you need good ventilation!

    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 2:44PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

The only data I've seen with respect to shelves interfering with ventilation was for a commercial range/hood combination. In that case, Schlieren photography and other measurements showed that the shelf had little effect. This was contrary to the asserted expectations of the researchers. If I recall, this was a solid shelf, and it might have had an inert salamander on it at one end.

I don't recall the side panel dimensions, if any, used for the configuration tested. (Some commercial setups have side panels that extend part way down to the cooktop.) Because standard height of commercial vent hoods is 7 feet at the bottom, side panels can be quite helpful, along with the back wall panel, in directing effluent up into the hood.) One might expect that a solid shelf without side panels would spill some effluent out to the sides where capture would be chancy at best, so these results may not fully apply to a residential configuration unless side cabinets or other structures provide a side panel effect.


    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 6:31PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I think that a solid shelf that was supported by shelf-depth side panels extending from the shelf down to the stove top would keep the effluent mostly under the hood, and might not be too visually offensive.


    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 6:36PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

We had the shelf system under heat lamps and found it to be VERY functional and a great compromise in the absence of having a WD. They were slotted but the slots were not so big that I think they had a huge impact on effectiveness of the hood. Reaching over them was never a problem and we stored all sorts of spices and oils on them and never noticed a problem with it affecting the freshness of the items since we typically used them up pretty quickly.

I read here or another similar post that others found the warming lamps to be fairly ineffective from a warming standpoint but then the poster commented that their lamps were the clear heat lamps. Mine were those evil looking RED lamps and got really hot to the point that you had to use a hot mat to pick up plates and platters etc that had been under them for a while. I actually used mine to slow melt butter often. On occasions that I knew i would be using melted butter in what I was cooking (EG homemade reubens) I would start by putting a stick of butter in a pyrex dish under the heat lamp. By the time I was ready to start putting the reubens together, the butter was melted for basting the rye bread prior to pan grilling the sanwiches.

    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 7:27PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Clinesgra/Kate - so I contacted Modernaire today and received a quote back from them. It included all components so I obviously wouldn't have to buy anything separately. However, I'm a little confused. Clinesgra-did you purchase one of their hoods along with the "insides" or did you just purchase the liner from then and you are purchasing the hood and the blower elsewhere. There are so many moving parts to this hood purchase, it's very confusing.

Kate - ...they were very responsive with regards to getting back to me. Of course, I'm not really sure I'm asking for the right stuff, but they're answering my questions nevertheless.

    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 8:53PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

malhgold: i understand your confusion. i'm afraid that even with the very thorough and kind responses i'm getting, i just don't know what i'm doing.
i think what i'm going to do is contact modern-aire and show them the pic of the hood my cabinetmaker is building along with the specs of my range and ask them what i need. i had a feeling both appliance salesmen were not steering me in the right direction since they each suggested different "stuff".

    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 9:12PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

FWIW...for the 48" capital w/6 burners and griddle, Modernaire said I should be fine with the 600 CFM. Just letting you know...I honestly don't have an opinion on that but am assuming many people here might disagree and say I need at least 1000CFM.

Clinresga - the continuous variable speed and the control switch being on the wall, is that something you worked with Modernaire on or that is with whomever is installing your hood? Sorry for all the questions, which may or may not pertain to my situation. Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything and maybe this will help others as well. Is it really a pain to use the on/off switch on the actual hood?

This is alot more complicated than when I bought my Amana built in downdraft range 13 years ago!

    Bookmark   August 1, 2008 at 10:22PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

kateskouros and mahlgold:
Options are a curse and a blessing. With Modern-Aire, you really have many options:

1) buy a hood liner with an internal blower mounted inside the hood. This would all come from Modern-Aire

2) buy a hood liner but with an inline blower (the kind that mounts in the attic). You would get a Modern Aire hood and then purchase the blower and needed accessories. You CAN, but do not have to buy the blower from Modern Aire. This is what I did. I chose to use a Fantech blower and silencer based on my prior experience with Fantech. It happens that this is a blower that Jeff at Modern Aire also liked (and I'd certainly recommend it--it's the FKD10XL blower and the LD10 silencer).

I ended up buying the Fantech from MA even though Jeff suggested I look online for it. I do think I could have saved several hundred dollars in cost and shipping had I done that, but I was on a tight timeline, and did not want to take the risk of buying equipment from an unknown internet vendor and finding out that I got the wrong thing. So, I paid closer to list price and shipping from Cal to Georgia, but had the luxury of Jeff telling me exactly what I needed.

3) hood liner plus external blower (mounts on roof). Jeff had suggested the Abakka low profile roof mount unit. We elected to go inline.

Regarding the infinitely variable, remotely mounted controls: this is a feature I love about the Modern Aire. Two advantages: the continuously variable speed control allows you to adjust the fan speed exactly to what you need. That's particularly useful (versus for example the Vent a Hood we have at the lake) when you want a very low setting--say just simmering something. The VAH even at low is annoyingly loud. The MA hood, with an external fan and silencer, should be close to inaudible on a very low setting.

Having the switches for fan and lights on the wall is also nice. I'm tall enough that to see the three switches on my VAH hood I have to bend over and then crane my neck to look into the hood. Contrast that to reaching to hit the switch on the wall next to the range. A little point, but a nice plus with hoods that allow remote location.

Again, advantage for me with MA has been that one person has helped make all my choices. I tortured Jeff for weeks with emails with all kinds of questions which he patiently answered. They made sure I ordered all the requisite accessories for the blower (backdraft damper, clamps, rheostat, etc). And they were able to build a hood which was exactly to my specs--we went with a 64'' width, NOT a standard hood width, to go over our 55'' Lacanche range.

Again, I sound like a MA crony, and I'm not, I have NO personal interest in them!! But I have had a very good experience with them. I am confident other companies can do something similar, but I greatly prefer dealing with a small company like MA or Independent or Prestige rather than trying to get customer svc from a huge company like Broan. Or, if my assessment is correct, from your clueless appliance company.


    Bookmark   August 2, 2008 at 10:00AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

So if one is venting on an outside wall, do you think an external blower is necessary? From what I remember, these boxes are "fairly" large and will be in a prominent visual spot. Jeff had suggested an internal blower, but honestly, I haven't really made any "specific requests" from him. I just told him I was venting to an outside wall and what range I was planning.

Regarding all the other items you purchased on your own, I guess I was under the assumption that if I bought the hood, internal blower from them, that was all I needed. Is there other stuff I need to purchase or were those items just based on your specific configuration?

Again....I'm feeling very "dumb" at this point. Sorry.....

    Bookmark   August 2, 2008 at 10:39AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

No, you're doing fine. If you go with an internal blower, the only other things you'd need are the ductwork, which your HVAC guy would do. I think you might still need a backflow damper, which just prevents outside breezes from blowing backwards down your ductwork, Jeff can confirm.

An external blower is definitely NOT needed to vent outside. Just remember, all you are doing is blowing air. There must be a fan somewhere that will do this. It can be at the "beginning" of the ductwork (inside your hood), in the "middle" (an inline fan in the attic), or at the "end" (on the roof where the duct exits the house).

Most folks use the internal blower in the hood, as you have been discussing. It's a much simpler installation. The only advantage of the inline or external blower is reducing the noise of the fan motor by moving it somewhere outside the kitchen. Otherwise, an internal and external blower of the same cfm rating should perform roughly the same. So, unless you are obsessing about noise levels and are willing to deal with the extra complexity of mounting a blower located remotely, it's fine to stick with an internal blower. Then it should just be one order to MA and you're done. All the stuff I was talking about was if you were going to do a remotely mounted inline blower, so it's unneccessary for your configuration. Just trust Jeff to get it right!

    Bookmark   August 2, 2008 at 12:23PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Clinresga - thanks so much for your help. I really appreciate you coming back to check this thread.

    Bookmark   August 2, 2008 at 3:08PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

malhgold and kates,

You both had a number of points and questions so I won't go back to see whose was whose so forgve me if I misspeak. And again, clinresga is directly on point and thorough with the advice given so far but I would add a few observations.

Presitge also offers a wall mount light dimmer and fan control system. We ordered it but got the ones mounted in the liner. We did not get charged for the wall mount controls and kept the one sent. It has been just fine but I would agree the wall mount would have been a bit nicer.

I have heard many on these forums argue that internal blowers are definitely more effective CFM for CFM than remote (whether in-line or roof/wall mount). That said, I would over size CFMs however necessary to go remote if possible. To piggyback on to one of clinresga's comments and add my experience too, in most cases, remote blower systems are SIGNIFICANTLY quieter than internal and that should not be taken lightly. Having had both, I can say that comfortly and with conviction. My current 2500 CFM roof mount system (no silencer) is much quieter on high than my previous 900 CFM internal system was on low and I am not exaggerating (and my previous system was a very good system so no complaints or fault as to manufacturer IMO). Having a conversation at normal levels in front of my current system on high is pretty effortless but conversations over the 900CFM internal blower on medium was a chore. I haven't responded top this post in a while so fogive me if I have repeated myself here but it has been such a difference for us.

I said in most cases. I believe malhgold mentioned venting directly through to an outside wall. Often this means a very short if any duct run. I have generally read on GW that it takes a minimum of about 6 feet of duct to get any effective noise reduction going remote. And yes its true that the wall/roof mounted termination caps/housing are pretty large.

I think kates mentioned having a custom cabinet built and mounted liner. I did too. As I understand it, most cabinet shops build these units so that the mounting surface for the liner is flush or even with the bottom of the cabinet unit itself. I actually had mine made so that the mounting surface was recessed about 4 inches into the cabinet making the whole cabinet enclosure unit effectively a part of the capture area. I say the norm is that these are normally built flush b/c I have heard descriptions here and I spent a lot time drawing this specification out and explaining this to my cabinet guy but when the cabinets came in, the mounting surface of the hood was flush with the bottom of the enclosure so I sent it back and he had to rework it. Think of it as a smoke lip (as that term is used in building fireplaces) for lack of better words. Seems simple and insignificant but the recess is a very effective method. I hope my description of the set up is understandable enough and I cannot put enough emphasis on its effectiveness from a performance and appearance perspective.

I have been very happy with the Prestige product so far and their folks were great to work with as well but I did not know about MA when I was going through the process and, from clinrega's comments, they sound great too. I think clinresga and I both are avid fans of more is better for CFMs (within reason).

HTH! and good luck!

    Bookmark   August 2, 2008 at 9:05PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Breezy 2 where did you buy your Prestige Hood?

    Bookmark   August 3, 2008 at 8:18AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Yeah, breezy2 and I have been pretty close in thought process. In fact, our hood enclosure (which is really a true alcove) will indeed also act like an even larger capture area (96'' wide over the 55'' range, as well as a front lip that will drop well below the bottom of the liner). And as breezy knows, I have serious "blower envy" with his 2500 cfm unit!

breezy's thoughts about external blowers are right on target, as is his observation about very short duct runs. Definitely an issue to consider if going external.

For mahlgold and kate: breezy and I clearly get a twisted sense of pleasure debating fine points of hood ventilation. If this comes across as arcane and confusing, then ignore it. You will not go wrong with a good hood liner: I agree with breezy that Prestige and Modern Aire are two vendors you can trust to produce a quality hood. So, if in doubt, let Jeff or Prestige guide you to the right choices, and don't worry if you choose an internal blower, probably 95% of hood owners do the same.

    Bookmark   August 3, 2008 at 9:38AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

great thread! It's helping me with my decisions. we need to decide in the next couple of weeks and would appreciate your assesment of the following set up for a 36" either a Wolf or Dacor Range cooktop: 42" hood from with a Abbaka liner and 1200 cfm remote blower. I was doing ok until I saw the note that short runs will be noisy. The run to the roof will ony be ~1-2 feet. (No attic) I also can mount to the back wall. I am very concerned with how quite the unit it.

    Bookmark   August 3, 2008 at 11:32AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

My experience with the internal blower was dictated by the application. It was a remodel and going external was cost prohibitive at a minimum. While I have strong opinions on remote as a sound convenience, let me temper my previous comments by saying that I was really happy overall with the internal blower system all things considered. Lets face it, it kicked any of its predecessors' @sses - sound and performance. Noise is a factor but don't fall into a deep depression if it doesn't work out for you.

salmon, I think your choices and sizing are dead on for very successful and guaranteed results. Interesting that you can go roof mount with only 1-2 feet of attic clearance. Is that a flat roof or just so near the outside wall that you get litte clearance? If either, you could consider a roof chase system (same as a chimney chase) to get enough room to install a silencer in which less than 6 feet might work but 6 plus feet would be easy to get. At 6 feet or so I would definitely go the silencer route if an option I think. The Abakka flat roof mount termination cap would work well for that application since it resembles somewhat a fireplace chimney termination cap. Building such a chimney chase system would not be very cost prohibitive either. If it is near the edge of a pitch roof, you could also consider turning the duct work as it enters the attic and run it up the attic space to a higher level and to increase duct run, then through the roof. A couple of turns, especially if you can keep them to 45's, will not make a noticeable difeerence in performance and actually adds to sound proofing a bit. My application has two very slight turns (probably 22.5's) in a total of about a 20 foot run (12 inch ducting) and I have no audible motor noise that I notice.

I concur with clinresga that more is better for ventilation to the extent an option and within reason. As said before, you can turn down what you have in excess but cannot turn up past what you have. As also mentioned here or elsewhere, I often only fnd the need to run my ventilation at half speed. I analogize that to having enough HP power to idle on the interstate at 80-90 MPH! A real pleasure!

Having said this, let me also recognize those who make an excellent point on certain replacement air requirements. I would suggest you consult with your HVAC guy to work out those requirements if applicable. Those requirments can be as expensinve and complicated as more completely described here or in other threads or as simple and inexpensive as the passive system I put in.

Finally, I bought my Prestige through Eurostoves. Treavor (Eurostoves) worked with the Prestige folks and were a tremendous resource in helping me design my final product.

    Bookmark   August 3, 2008 at 2:05PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo


thanks for the information. the picture of the kitchen below is what we are going to remodel. The kitchen is on the left side of the house. You can see the skylight as a reference. We have a cathedral ceiling that "is" the roof. Just 2x12 rafters between the ceiling and the roof. I like the idea of the chase, but thats a new roof that I'm not excited about cutting open

    Bookmark   August 3, 2008 at 3:53PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

breezy and clinresga - I just wanted to say THANK YOU for ALL your help. I am much more confident at this point going with an internal blower and realize that I don't really need to make this as complicated as I was. Now I just need to pick a hood style...nothing's ever easy!!

Thanks again. And glad all the questions and answers are helping out others.

Kateskourous - thanks for starting the thread. Keep us posted with what you find out.

    Bookmark   August 3, 2008 at 4:06PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

like the house and the setting!

Given the layout, I'd just go with an internal blower. I do think the short run presents problems and likely eliminates any noise advantage the external blower would normally have.

With a different layout I think breezy's idea would be great. Remember though that the Fantech silencer (the only one I've seen) is huge--42'' high and 18'' in diameter so a chase would need to take that into account.

    Bookmark   August 3, 2008 at 4:36PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo


I think if you want to go external, the chase idea will work based on your pics although maybe a bit visible through the sky light. A good carpenter and roofer can work around the new roof issue much easier than you think. The chase could easily be sized to accomodate the silencer size clinresga mentions. If that is too much "sugar for a dime", then internal is certainly a viable and much simpler option. Keep in mind you are going to have to cut someting the get the ducting to the outside. Talk to your subs and get their take on the difference b/t constructing a chase vs a simple vent to the outside.

As another thought as well (to add to internal being a more viable option) since you will vent to the outside almost directly, you will have little or no duct run and create little if any negative or back pressure. This will reduce fan noise pretty measurably I am told. My situation was not a huge run but duct size barely adequate, the duct run was not long but still about 12 feet and had 2 - 90 degree turns in it. Many argue this created more negative pressure reducing CFM effectiveness and increasing the noise factor. Sorry for adding more complexity but to clinresga's point, internal might not be such a bad deal especially of your subs/carpenters are unsure about blending a chase system in effectively from a cost and appearance perspective.

As to the delimma of choices, the vendors recommended by others and indicated by you guys as preferred choices are all very good and excellent resources to hammer out thespecific detils. Listen to them and let them guide you through to the end. Its in their best interests to make sure you are happy b/c that is what made them good companies and b/c you will talk about it here!

    Bookmark   August 3, 2008 at 5:00PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

i just got off the phone with jeff herman at modernaire... he spent a good twenty five minutes with me going over everything i ever wanted to know (and even didn't want to know) about ventilation. i'm waiting for an email now with install instructions as well as photos of all the various blowers available: internal, external ...and something else. from our discussion i will most likely purchase a PSL 52 liner (52 3/8" x 22 1/2") with a 1200 cfm internal blower with baffle filters. i was quoted a price of $1522. thanks clinsresga. jeff was a big help as were you.

    Bookmark   August 4, 2008 at 3:41PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Jeff is the man! Glad it was helpful information for you.

It's turned out to be a nice thread for basic ventilation information thanks to breezy's additions and I'm sure I'll reference it in the future.

    Bookmark   August 4, 2008 at 5:25PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Duct losses are not the only losses on the hood side of a remote blower. The hood "filtering," hood and duct transitions, and blower transition also contribute. Also, if make-up air is not available from some source, the house pressure falls and the blower flow rate falls until the house leakage provides make-up air to balance the blower flow rate.

In the case of baffled hoods, the purpose of the baffles is to redirect air so that the larger grease particles are thown into the baffles and eventually drain to a tray. The baffles cause a pressure loss that may be higher than that of the ducting. A few tenths of an inch of water is not unreasonable, depending on air flow, etc., etc. The baffles also generate noise, as do mesh filters where they are used instead. Still, the hiss noises of baffles, meshes, and transitions are usually less bothersome than the motor, drive, and blade tip turbulence noises of the blower, so remote blower mounting should be quieter. This does depend on duct length. A two-foot duct to an outside blower is not going to attenuate the blower noise.


    Bookmark   August 5, 2008 at 10:24AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

wow, just found this thread after having posted the following innocent/unaware question earlier today:
"i've just begun looking for a hood to compliment my 36" bluestar 6 burner, purchased from eurostoves about 18 months ago. have been using an exhaust fan presently that vents directly outside the house through the wall. in all honesty, have been traveling for at least half that time, so it's not as bad as it seems. in any case, i'm hoping to find a good one (maybe like an independent) that i can just pop into the same hole, that vents out the back. aside from independent is there any other low cost options anyone knows of that will do a decent job? have briefly spoken with trevor at eurostove & independent or prestige were his thoughts. i live in the middle of nowhere, iowa & it's online or a trip to chicago for me."
you all are a thorough bunch. thanks. and even though i'm a new questioner, i had run into the gw 2 years back when in the throes of range hunting & bought the bluestar after reading the comments. great site.

    Bookmark   September 21, 2008 at 12:37AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I think there was discussion previously as to whether most hoods require at least some length of ducting to work normally, but can't remember the conclusion. Someone else will likely post that answer.

If what you are saying is that you vent out the back of the hood, straight out through that wall, so a total duct run of maybe under a foot, that's an interesting question. Many manufacturers sell hoods that vent horizontally, though most seem to be undercabinet, rather than freestanding hoods. An alternative would be a custom built hood, and as always, agree with Prestige and Independent as good options and would put in my usual plug for Modern-Aire, as I love our custom liner.

I'd ask the hood manufacturer directly as to any issues they see with direct venting out the wall. If nothing else, I'm not sure how you put a backdraft damper into such an arrangement, and without one, in winter in Iowa, you'd have one heck of a cold breeze blowing in through your hood.

If the wall where the duct exits outside is not highly visible, maybe you could consider an external blower?

    Bookmark   September 21, 2008 at 11:08AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

thanks, i spoke to a salesman for vent-a-hoods a few days ago & he feels i will need at least an 18" hood (if no cabinet) so that the duct work can be hidden. after the brief discussion with trevor (eurostoves) i'm leaning away from the vah's & so i guess i'm looking for a good (not too expensive) baffle style. this will possibly require that i reconsider the venting direction or reconfigure the position of my hole to accommodate the correct placement of a proper system. although i was hoping to avoid that. it's actually the perfect time to determine the outcome of this, as we are heat-gunning the entire house in anticipation of new paint & re-working all cedar siding that needs it, so the hole "could" be changed now- the issue is; the husband is growing weary of my new projects &/or extensions of present & came close to meltdown when i began making vent hole moving comments...

    Bookmark   September 23, 2008 at 11:32AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Bumping my favorite ventilation thread up.

joniir: what did you end up doing?

    Bookmark   October 4, 2008 at 10:49AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

have suspended the search at present, as it is just too intense to deal with the house scraping (& husband's possible/probable annoyance) imagine i'll just have to deal with it later. in the mean time, am hoping to sort out a few wrinkles with bluestar (the range manufacturers) that i have posted on another thread entitled:
"Bluestar warning on quality and customer service"
it's all kind of slightly, weirdly beyond control.
thanks for asking & i will return to this thread when i have sorted something/anything out...

    Bookmark   October 5, 2008 at 11:12AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Good luck with the BS, and we'd all love to bombard you with advice on ventilation when the time comes!

    Bookmark   October 5, 2008 at 6:52PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo


However, the hood mounting and ducting plan should occur early enough to not have to modify your ceiling twice. Ventilation design, unless truly stand-alone, can also affect cabinet design.


    Bookmark   October 6, 2008 at 9:21AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

my sentiments, exactly; but have to tread softly with the man. hopefully i'll get back to it (quietly) before the siding is entirely done. thanks. need to get some definite specs on general hole placement, probably thru the wall. toodles, jonii

    Bookmark   October 10, 2008 at 4:46AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

jeez... my thread popped back up. it's a good thing too, since i STILL am unsure of what to do. we just broke ground last week and i've been a little preoccupied. i've been out of town for the past couple of weeks but i'm going to print this thread out and go over it with a fine tooth comb with my very type A personality husband and the builder. i think i should leave the appliance guy out of it. at least that's vibe i'm getting. i want to make up my mind soon, since i just got word that many of our chosen appliances will be going up in price next month. ...thanks again for reminding me of yet another thing for my "to do" list. can't someone just pick something out for me, and i'll write you a check? ;D

    Bookmark   October 10, 2008 at 11:50PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Wow this is really a lot of information! I just posted a silly simple
ventilation question on the kitchen side and then came over here and found this!
There was a lot to read quickly, but for my situation, which is:

48 range
8 foot ceiling
flat roof

does this info mean that an outside motor instead of internal would NOT help much with the noise factor? I too am purchasing a liner for a custom hood.

Thanks so much for any help!

kateskouros...what did you end up with?


    Bookmark   November 18, 2008 at 11:20PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Should help some no matter what. Is the roof directly above the kitchen or is there a second floor to traverse? Is there room for a silencer if you go with remote blower?

    Bookmark   November 19, 2008 at 7:49AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Thanks clinresga, yes the roof is directly above the kitchen, no second
floor. Not sure what you mean about a silencer, from what I can see now
that everything is open, they will use the existing vent up to roof (using a
turn in the ceiling for the duct). Our flat roof also has heating/air units on
it. Is the silencer a unit that sits separate from the blower? Thanks.

    Bookmark   November 19, 2008 at 9:20AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Sorry, should have been clearer. I think the short run of duct you have will have advantages and disadvantages. From the standpoint of high efficiency ventilation it's great, especially if you are using large diameter (ideally 10'') ducting. The downside is that it does tend to reduce the advantages of a remote blower to some degree, as the motor is closer to the vent hood. In that setting, a silencer is really helpful, as it virtually eliminates any motor noise traveling back down your duct and into the kitchen. We have the Fantech LD10, which is the most popular one I know of, and it works great. However, it is huge: a cylindrical metal "can" about 18'' in diameter and 42'' high if I recall. You can see it on the Fantech website. I do not know if it is possible to install one outside on the roof though, so it might be worth a call to Fantech to find out.

It is a hassle to use a remote blower, vs the easy option of an internal blower, but the incredibly quiet and effective operation of ours is truly one of my favorite things in our new kitchen, so don't write it off if you can make it work.

    Bookmark   November 19, 2008 at 10:34AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Sounds like it would be a great help but I am afraid my poor flat roof
has so many other things going on and disguised up there. With all of the air/heat ducts running up there I just don't know if anything else can fit.
I will check into it...thanks again...I just love all of the knowledge in this place.

    Bookmark   November 19, 2008 at 10:41AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo


    Bookmark   February 28, 2009 at 10:06AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I posted a dumb question about cfm's a little while ago, but just found this thread. Thanks all who contributed for putting ventilation into layman's terms for me. I feel better.

    Bookmark   March 2, 2009 at 8:27PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo


    Bookmark   May 14, 2009 at 10:03PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Am bumping this because it has so much good information.

Also have a question -- Modernaire uses seamed construction (unless you pay a lot more for seamless) Prestige and others, eg. Rangecraft I think use seamless construction. It looks better but is it structurally any stronger? Any reason to care about seamed versus seamless?

    Bookmark   July 11, 2010 at 5:01PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Good info on this thread! I am getting a 36" wolf gas rangetop. I didn't think much
about ventilation but plan to get an Independent 600CFM hood liner to put in a 40" arched wood hood that my cabinet guy will make. The only size liner that will fit is a 34". Does this seem adequate???

If I were to get a 40" liner, it would mean having a 42" hood made which would leave me with 2 upper cabs on each size of the range being only 14" - currently they will be 15" which is already small.

My appliance guy thinks the 34" should be fine with 600CFM - any thoughts?

    Bookmark   August 16, 2010 at 3:43PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Any reason to care about seamed versus seamless?

Seams get grease caught in them,tough to clean.

    Bookmark   August 17, 2010 at 3:19AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo


Hoods work by capture and containment. Capture requires the hood to overlap the expanding effluent that rises from the pans on the cook top. Disliking grease and odor, I would go with the wider hood, narrower cabinet solution.


    Bookmark   August 19, 2010 at 11:20AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Wow what a great thread. I will post my question here to bump the thread back into the lineup.

Remote blowers: Has anyone any particular manufacturer to recommend? I presume issues would include efficiency and noise and cost -- others? Maybe roof profile?

silencer: Are they *all* this large? Why?! Cars have itty bitty silencers on the bottomside, why would a range ventilation system need to be so much more giant? Just because attics exist? Or maybe it's necessary. Should I care about the prospect of installing that massive silencer? Just aesthetically it seems scary!

the plan: I admit to still being a tad confused just about the components of all of this. Am I correct here please: If one opts not for the internal blower (which has two flavors, (1) mounted on the liner itself or (2) more remotely, inline in the attic), but instead for the roof-mounted external blower, one needs to acquire the following: (i) liner (==insert; same thing) (ii) hood that is a cosmetic thing to go on top of the liner (iii) ducting to carry the air from the hood outside... and optionally (iv) silencer. Is this right?

I guess what confuses me is that it seems it's possible to get the hood with the liner inside already, or you can just get the hood itself ... and also it seems that if you get the liner annealed to the hood, it's also possible to get that liner with or without a blower..

This really shouldn't have to be so difficult (physics aside).

Also, I've seen it suggested that while tricky to get things to match up, it is likely cheaper to purchase all these parts separately - is that true? Seems to me to be a bit of a apples:oranges problem in determining that. I think that all the separate parts of a roof-mounted system + silencer+ductwork+liner+hood would have to be very $$$, but you'd wind up with a primo, silent, powerful system. I'm guessing an inline attic installation might be cheaper but a little noisier. Am I getting tradeoffs right here with respect to cost or am I failing to search prices low enough down the wholesale pole, so to speak? That is, I am wondering whether my efforts to compare costs are complicated by markups -- if I go directly to, say, ModernAire will I pay less or MSRP anyway? Fantech? These products are available via internet; it's hard to tell whether they are less or not? [and then there's the everpresent problem of how to pay for knowledgeable salesmen's, like Trevor's, existence...].

Is it true, then, that á la carte is more expensive than an off-the-shelf entrée (hood+liner+blower all packaged in one)? Will I wind up paying dearly for the primo external-blower-cum-silencer or not? There are so many decisions to make along the way, that even just knowing this sooner than later would be helpful....

So, so, so many complications....

    Bookmark   January 9, 2011 at 7:01PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

The sectional area of a car muffler is usually significantly greater, relative to the area of the exhaust pipe, than a Fantech ventilation silencer is to the duct it is used with. The ratio is closer if the silencer is compared to a typical motorcycle muffler.

Note that these serve different purposes. The ventilation muffler is intended to filter blade tip turbulence noise and duct turbulence noise in an otherwise continuous flow, while a car muffler is intended to reduce the pulsating pressure from the engine that would otherwise be much louder than a hood ventilation system.

Exposed metal hoods normally have whatever guts are needed to work, so a liner would not be a separate component. Wood or other such materials used for decorative hoods require a metal liner.

For the same volumetric flow rate, a roof fan and an in-line fan CAN have the same noise, or more or less depending on design choices made by the manufacturer and quality of execution.


    Bookmark   January 9, 2011 at 9:40PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I love this thread. Another question to lob in - if you're going to be venting directly outside and there is not a roof directly above (e.g. first floor of 3 story house), then is there really any advantage to a remote blower? It seems like it would be more difficult (and unsightly?) to install the blower on an exterior wall and if I'm reading this thread correctly given how close it is, you're still going to get quite a bit of noise unless you add the massive silencer (more unsightly to the exterior of the house)?

I am looking at a 48" range (6 burners + grill) which will be placed on an exterior wall and vented directly outside (only a few feet up). So I *believe* I need a 54" inch hood (can I do with 24" depth or do I need 27") and an in-line blower in the hood itself with a cpm >=~1100 and accept that I'm going to have some noise?

    Bookmark   January 9, 2011 at 11:47PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I'm no expert here but I think that's right, historic. I'm not sure that your blower will be "in-line" per se or just attached to the liner. That terminology slips me up. But it sounds as if your line is so short that there's no room to locate a blower "in" it; the blower will be strapped on to your liner, I think.

Anyway, main point is that I think you're right since the motor will be so close to where you're standing to cook, it will be loud. I don't think you even have the option to use the silencer again, because your line is so short.

    Bookmark   January 10, 2011 at 2:55AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Great information but nothing quite hits on my issue so any help/advice would be appreciated.

We are doing a home addition/remodel in our cold-climate Vermont home, including moving the kitchen and adding a 48" Capital Culinarian (6 burners & Grill). The kitchen design has the range located on an interior wall against a brick chimney with 3 separate flues. The "plan" is to vent the range into the flue that was previously used to vent a propane wood stove.

I have concerns as to whether venting this way will work? It'll be a long run to the top of the chimney...maybe 20ft (up through 2nd floor and out roof). Have heard conflicting things but seems that it can pass code as long as that flue is dedicated to the hood vent and nothing else.
My ceiling is 7 ft to open beam rafters and maybe another 6 inches up to the actual ceiling, not sure how that install will go given the differing heights.

Any advice as to the above, and as to what type of ventilation system/blower/CFM etc. would be best and affordable would be appreciated.

We are kind of stretching things with the high cost of the range (wife is skeptical but indulging my culinary inclinations) and don't want the venting to be the kicker that causes marital..hehem...discord!

Thanks in advance for your sage advice!

    Bookmark   January 27, 2011 at 6:12PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

you may be right, but take it to the following forums: HVAC, remodeling, and Building a Home. People there don't come to the Appliances forum. There will be questions about your flue, and you will gain more from the interaction.


    Bookmark   January 27, 2011 at 8:41PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Thanks, David. I'll give that a try!

    Bookmark   January 28, 2011 at 9:17AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo


    Bookmark   July 5, 2011 at 11:02PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Bump, bump, bump!!! What a great thread!

    Bookmark   October 9, 2011 at 10:31AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

So what's the best out there these days.....baffle system like ModernAire or no baffles like Ventahood? I need help with this!

    Bookmark   October 11, 2011 at 1:35AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

What a great thread! I have read every post on vent/range hoods on GW and ya'll have helped me narrow a bunch of stuff down (and realize I can't get what I want for my price, lol).

Yet, I still haven't figured it out. I'm using a 36" induction cooktop, peninsula installation w/9' ceilings. We have an existing vent to the roof (one story home with a generous walk-up attic). Big family of 11, several on special diets, so we cook a lot, including a lot of frying/searing.

I'm thinking I need/want a 42" hood with at least 700 cfm, though would feel better with more. I would prefer baffle filters, an inline blower to help reduce noise (kitchen opens to family room), and I feel like I want the duct to be more than 6" which seems like a lot have.

I like MA, but still feel like I can't quite afford it. I feel like I've looked at every possible website for vent hoods and still the "perfect" eludes me. Plus, I'm so dizzy from looking at this one and that one that I just want to quit.

Someone want to tell me what to buy? lol

    Bookmark   August 24, 2012 at 4:11PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Great thread, lots of information, thank you to everybody who contributed !
I'll bump it by adding my question.
I have not too big kitchen in Gambrel Colonial, with 8 feet ceilings. Due to storage issues I have go with 30 inches Blue Star Range and 30 inches hood which has to be vented directly to exterior wall, I do a lot of stir fry dishes and I'm not a fun of lingering smells in the house. I was thinking about Kobe hood but I do not think they have horizontal vented option, in addition I live in MA so it will have to damper to prevent cold air coming back the house.
I would appreciate any advise GW gurus can give me!! Thanks.

    Bookmark   February 3, 2013 at 7:46PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I've been looking at Kobe also. Several of theirs vent out the back as well as the top.

    Bookmark   February 4, 2013 at 1:01AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Stir fry needs good flow rate so don't skimp when choosing a fan. A 30-inch system should probably have at least a 600 cfm fan that will, more or less, actually achieve 400 cfm in a real duct system with some make-up air pressure loss.

Also, stir fry is probably better captured and contained with baffle hoods having significant volume under the baffles, vs. flat mesh hoods with no volume (but they look really nice).

If you use mesh filters and stir fry, you will have to clean them very often. Baffles work when dirty.


    Bookmark   February 4, 2013 at 11:30AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

mtpam2- I agree they have this kind hoods but not in 24 inches deep ones and that is depth I think I should get for BS range. I send e-mail to Kobe but no response yet.
kaseki- I would prefer baffles over mesh but I'm confused about blower placement, inline, exterior or interior? How would it work with venting through 1-2 feet of duct? Would that create higher level of noise ? Would I need silencer?

    Bookmark   February 4, 2013 at 8:54PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Blue star French door ELECTRIC oven. Opinions?
looking at BS French door 30" ELECTRIC Anyone...
Dishwasher with cutlery tray and heated dry?
I seem to be coming up fairly empty handed with these...
24' Appliances: Liebherr or Fagor?? Bertazzoni or other?
Can anyone weigh in on small space appliances? While...
How much Hood CFM to get for Wolf's 6-Burner Rangetop?
Let's say I use all 6 burners at once sometimes (not...
Ordered my BlueStar!
I ordered and paid my deposit on my BlueStar on Saturday....
Debbi Branka
Sponsored Products
Thermostatic Bar Valve Shower Faucet,Rigid Riser, Round Head & Handset
Hudson Reed
TRIBECCA HOME Mendoza Keyhole Back Dining Chairs (Set of 2)
Charleston Dining Arm Chair Cushion, Patio Furniture
$128.00 | FRONTGATE
Live Miniature Blue Mouse Ears Hosta - Set of Three
$12.99 | zulily
Vienna Polished Silver Six-Light Chandelier
Outdoor 4-tier Shoe Rack/ Cubby
Stained Glass Tiffany Metal Bird Base Tables Lamp
Elements Stainless Steel One-Light Sapphire Swarovski Elements Wall Sconce, 5W x
$724.00 | Bellacor
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™