looking for a compact otr, otc convection microwave

mcunnJune 18, 2013

Hi All,

In the process of designing the kitchen for our new home.

We have a 24-27 inch space to install a convection microwave above the counter. Our preference would be to use an over the range style but they only seem to come in 30 inch. Merillat does have a microwave shelf 27" x 18" deep if we have to go that route.

Does anyone know of an OTR style convection microwave that is 24" or 27" wide?

If not... any suggestions for a reasonably priced $400-$700 combo that would fit the shelf above?



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Are you set on a convection microwave? We had one in our original kitchen design but we found out that the convection oven is only as fast as a normal range oven. We eliminated it because we thought we could use it to quickly heat smaller items but still get the browning like a regular oven. It doesn't work like that.

    Bookmark   June 18, 2013 at 10:03PM
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Sharp makes a non-convection OTC microwave oven with underneath lighting that is 24 inches wide. Mine is model number R-1214F, but I think that they are up to "T" in letter code now. It is designed to mount to the wall behind it and to the cabinet base above it. It is not for sitting on a shelf. If you choose this style, I can provide some additional guidance on installation.


    Bookmark   June 19, 2013 at 10:35AM
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Kaseki - Not to highjack this thread, but can you use a regular 12" deep upper cabinet to mount the Sharp OTC microwave under or must it be deeper?
I haven't had a chance to look at this model in person, but it looks like a possibility for me. Also, does it function well or have you had any problems with it?

Thanks so much.

    Bookmark   June 22, 2013 at 11:21PM
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Somewhere (at least in 2007) there was an application guide on Sharp's website that described various ways the unit could be mounted. That information is worth reading.

In my case the cabinet above is 15 inches deep and the amount of the microwave oven that protrudes is about the same as the amount of a nearby Wolf wall oven that overlays its (deeper) cabinet. I recall using a wood spacer at the back to adjust the exact exposure. I see no reason why a 12-inch cabinet won't work; the screws that hold the front up that mount through the cabinet above are less than 12 inches from the wall. If your sheetrock is removed for renovation I would advise adding some blocking back there to maximize the mounting strength.

I bought mine from AJ Madison, as I recall, and the only minor issue was a side screw that had stripped its hole leading to a rattle when the unit ran. As I didn't notice this over the year it ran sitting on blocks in my family room until I had mounted the unit for the "final" time, I just pushed some Styrofoam up between the side and the next cabinet wall and eliminated the noise.

The unit mounts to a metal panel that is attached to the wall. The shipping carton is cut in a designated way and this helps one position the (heavy) unit so it can hook onto the metal panel. Then it is necessary to fix the front screws that mount in the bottom of the cabinet. Do not try to use these screws to pull up the unit into position. They are strong enough to hold it, but their thread form is not strong enough to work against that weight dynamically. Instead, using books or preferably a cabinet jack (not too expensive if you hunt for it on the web), hold the front up against the cabinet and then insert the screws. Preferably use a bit of heat resistant (non dripping is the point) lube such a NeverSieze.

The unit works as expected for a microwave oven. Like most microwave ovens, it loses its clock setting during power drops. The MW manufacturers, like those who manufactured VCRs, should have planned for longer time periods to keep the clock up. (Oh wait; those are the same manufacturers.)

I have noticed that sometimes when I set the cook time hurriedly and move on, it turns out to be set way too high. I have learned to double check. It might be some button bounce, once an issue for personal computer on/off buttons, or it might be me.

The bottom lighting onto black soapstone is a bit dim for any detail work compared to LED strip lighting, but OK as a nighttime aid.

I have a toaster oven on the counter below it. This eventually caused the adhesive that holds on the bottom front trim to release. Use of an automotive emblem neoprene adhesive strip cured that issue, but in general I would recommend that if such positioning is used, the oven door be closed after removing the toast. I certainly wouldn't suggest using the toaster oven as an open broiler below the unit. Otherwise it should be fine.

The outlet for its power should be in the cabinet above it. It is best if you provide it its own circuit.

The door hinges on the left.

Overall, a nice unit for its specific niche. Integration results are best with careful planning.


    Bookmark   June 23, 2013 at 9:26AM
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The only MW that I know of that's 12" deep is the GE SpaceMaker. That's what I just put in. While the dimensions work, it calls for air clearance on the sides so it's not ideal in my 24" space. l decided to just hang the unit and leave off the shelf that was to be below it so that I wouldn't burn out the expensive unit. (I paid about $500 for the Monogram name because I didn't think the Profile look would work well.) I extended a filler piece along the bottom front edge to give it a bit more of a built-in look. Like kas, my outlet is in the upper cabinet.

Electric is not hooked up yet so I can't speak to its performance, but it's very small for anyone very dependent on MW's. Unfortunately I didn't have much of a choice in my small kitchen.

    Bookmark   June 23, 2013 at 9:58AM
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(No, the doors are not adjusted yet either!)

    Bookmark   June 23, 2013 at 10:03AM
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Thanks kas for the information. Much appreciated.

    Bookmark   June 24, 2013 at 12:27AM
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