8ft interior doors or 6' 8' standard doors?

Central79May 19, 2012

We are building a single story house with 10 ft ceilings. Trying to decides between using standard 6' 8" or 8 ft doors recommended by the builder?

Does anyone know how much more an 8' door would cost.?

Thanks

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mydreamhome

6'8" doors look very short with 10' ceilings IMO, unless they are topped by a transom. Yes, 8' doors will cost more, but not that much more. The other thing to consider is kitchen cabinets--they will also need to be taller, and will cost you alot more than going from 6'8" doors to a 8's. You can get away with 6'8" doors & standard height upper cabs with 9' ceilings, however. Something to think about if construction hasn't started...

    Bookmark   May 19, 2012 at 9:43AM
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millworkman

you may want to consider 9' ceilings and 7' interior doors

    Bookmark   May 19, 2012 at 11:17AM
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MichelleDT

Agree that the smaller doors will look odd with the taller ceiling. Depending on door style/material, the difference isn't much. For example, a simple one panel shaker in 30" (from etodoors) is $179 for 80" and $189 for 96". The 3 panel shaker is the same price for both sizes. This may not apply to all door species/style.

M

PS - not affiliated with the door company.

Here is a link that might be useful: ETODOOR Price Example

    Bookmark   May 19, 2012 at 1:44PM
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david_cary

For masonite, a 6'8" hollow is about $70 and 8 ft is about $110. The difference with solid core is more like $110 vs $180. All of this depends on casing etc but that is the general ballpark.

Transoms don't save much money.

6'8" doors look a bit silly on 10 ft ceilings. I have a few in different places (basement, small bedroom). If you have a tray near the door, then 6'8" is fine, you can do a false transom depending on casing but that eats up about 1/2 the savings in labor.

Yes - the upcharge in cabinets can exceed the upcharge in doors. The big door issue is exterior doors. While you can have cheap 8 ft doors, when you start doing nice doors, the upcharge can be substantial.

Ex - Glass door, impact rated, fiberglass - $975 for 6'8" and $1230 for 8 ft. An 8 ft SDL glass interior door was $400 and the 6'8" was $200.

    Bookmark   May 19, 2012 at 1:44PM
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mayberry_moon

David Cary, do you have a site or anymore info on glass interior doors? our designer is trying to get us to use them and I'm not sure. He says they will be less expensive because of absence of casing.

    Bookmark   May 19, 2012 at 6:45PM
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Central79

Thanks all! Very helpful comments. We are still in the design phase so easy to make changes now. We are most concerned with the cabinets in the kitchen If we use 10ft ceilings. We had wanted soffits and this may also be more of a problem in kitchen with 10ft ceilings as well?

Our plan currently has 10 ft ceilings throughout with 11 1/2ft ceiling with a a tray ceiling at 10ft in the great room.

Maybe we should go with 9 ft ceilings throughout except maybe a cathedral ceiling in breakfast nook and 11 ft ceilings in just the great room?

    Bookmark   May 19, 2012 at 10:26PM
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david_cary

The glass interior doors that I was referring to have wood/mdf on the sides and use casing. Casing is cheap in the grand scheme of things - but it does depend on what you have as casing.

    Bookmark   May 20, 2012 at 5:40AM
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lzerarc

you will save quite a bit of money from changing from 10' plates to 9'. framing costs lower, drywall costs lower, less siding, etc. Not to mention save money on heating and cooling. PLus this thread mentions possible design issues with it and added costs associated with it. Our current design uses 9' plates in general, but the entry and dining bump up to 10' plates. we are using an 8' full glass front door. the living space is 9' plates with a 10' tray ceiling built into the trusses. kitchen is also 9' and we are using 42" high cabinets.
in the kitchen consider indirect uplighting/cove lighting as a main source of light. Ironically most people load kitchens with cans. Cans are one of the worst lighting sources for a kitchen since it cast shadows on the work surface since you are blocking the light. Undercabinet lighting set to the front edge of the upper and indirect uploading will provide overall better lighting of the space. not having soffits will allow lighting above your cabinets.

    Bookmark   May 20, 2012 at 11:02AM
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