I had some questions about my new NXR range that I totally posted to the wrong forum. If NXR owners could help me out, the post is here
My had a shipping damaged door and the top stayed pretty hot every time I used the oven. Like I felt I could cook an egg on it or a hamburger.
Now that I have a new door and properly adjusted hinges, it gets warm, but not hot. I have run the oven at 500 degrees since to burn off the new door and the top didn't get nearly as hot as running the burner off the first time.
Try 350F for half an hour and see what you get. If it gets hot, try to check that the oven gasket lines up properly with the frame.
My broiler igniter stays on. I guess thats because the broiler doesn't turn on/off the way the oven burner does. I understand that the igniter has a relay to the gas safety value - the igniter being on allows the gas to flow so that sort of explains it.
My cabinets/countertops are likely a little deeper than yours at 25-5/8", so they cover a bit more of the range. The front of the cabinet doors can come within 1/4" of front of the frame according to the manual - so yes, if you later replace cabinets, they can be made deeper.
Or stick a layer or two of plywood on the wall behind the cabinets when installing to push out the front. You end up with deeper counters without the expense of custom depth cabinets.
Thanks for the feedback. My door looks to be in perfect condition but I'll check the alignment and see if any adjustment is possible.
We're looking at full-custom cabinets, so slightly deeper wouldn't cost much more, if at all. I was also wondering if I had to replace the stove, would the new one be too short - are all "pro-style" ranges extra deep? I should do some research before ordering deeper cabinets.
I don't mind the igniter staying on. Just so that's what it's supposed to do. And it did shut off eventually, with the gas, when it hit some preset temp--looked like about 575 by my oven thermometer.
Would you be willing to compare notes with me on your door fit? Mine has 3/8" gap at the top, consistent across the width. The two sides are even, about 1/4" gap. The left side is about 1/8" proud of the trim and the right side is flush. The trim piece under the door is very loose and jiggles around easily.
Does this sound more like your first door or your second? Thanks!
Like my first door and not the third door. The second door was destroyed in shipping.
The service guy did adjust the fit by taking the hinge apart and doing something to it. It involved a couple of tools simultaneously and a fair amount of determination. Both sides of the hinge is replaceable without a lot of effort.
The entire top edge of the door should be the same amount slightly proud - the top edge has vents that sort of line up with vents in the top of the oven frame. When they don't, I think there is too much waste heat going straight up and heating the overhang.
The trim piece should be reasonable tight but I could see the top moving a bit. It's held by screws under the front side at the bottom and slips over a bolt on both sides. Service guy had to loosen both mounting bolts on the side to get it to fit properly. Crappy drawing may help.
Here's what I posted in you other thread about hot doors:
If you've seen other posts, you've probably seen my comments on the subject of hot oven doors and sides. To summarize: the stove will be a lot hotter during the intial burn-in than later. After a wee's worth of using my NXR DRGB3001 model, the hottest spots (and they were just spots) were about 140F-145 --- that's the center of the "toe-kick" right in front of the glow-plug end of the oven baking element. There were a couple of areas of around 130F and most of it (including the oven glass) was only around 95F to 105F. My tehory is that that the burn helps the insulation set. So, no apparent fire hazards on the sides.
As for the top center panel, I have to say I have not checked recently. I bought the optional center grate which stands over the center panel,
As weissman says, pro-style stoves do stick out a bit further than other stoves. Your photo looks like what I see in my kitchen. Actually, I had not noticed this before.
Now, as for the broiler, bear in mind that there is an infrared panel. It takes longer to get it red hot and the ignitor does stay on for a while. When I've run broiler for a long time, (as for a recent marathon pizza baking session), the broiler ignitor in my NXR it does go off and then cycles operates more like the baking burner.
As for the oven door, mine does have 3/8 gap at the top and 1/4" gap down on the sides, and both sides are slightly but equally proud of the side frames by maybe 3/32" top and bottom and right and left. Sounds like one of your oven door hinges might not be seated seated quite right. See bmorpanic's thread on the oven door for some discussion of setting the correctly ourself. Or, better yet, get warranty service to fix it and watch how they do it so you can fix it yourself if you ever need to remove the oven door.
The trim piece/kick panel should not be jiggling. It will have a bit of flex to it, so you can press or pull on it and get it move a bit. But it should not jiggle. As bmorepanic says, tighten the base screws.
On my DRGB3001, the screws are horizontal not vertical as shown in the diagram above. They are at the bottom of the lower, coved part of the trim/cover. They are readily accessible from the front of the stove. Use a #2 Phillips driver (which is the one most people have in their tool kits and the Phillips bit they most likely have for a cordless drill). If the screws are underneath the cove (parallel to the legs) you'll need a very short driver to to get at them.
Thanks for the great information.
My base screws are horizontal like JWVideo's, and they're tight. The top of the base trim slides up and down about 3/4" with slight pressure. I'm thinking the side bolts that it slides over could be loose. How are those bolts accessed? It's not rattling or anything - it's kind of "springy" across the top and the entire top slides up and down.
First I'm going to check the range for level, then I'll probably go ahead and make the call for service on the door. I don't suspect I'll have to wait for a new part, but even for a handy guy I'm not sure I'm confident enough to dig into those hinges to try to make the adjustment. If they hassle me over whether that's a warranty issue, then I'll try it myself.
The other place that's loose on mine is the bottom of the backsplash/vent. I can push it towards the wall to get a substantial gap (1/4" or so) just in the middle. Seems like a place that spills could disappear if not careful. This piece looks like it comes off easily though so I should be able to check it out.
We came from an electric stove and this is such a step up it's unbelievable. We hardly ever cooked before without boiling something over, and now we can just turn the burner down. We are having to rethink pots and pans slightly as the smaller ones can no longer be used for boiling a little bit of water.
I browned a piece of bologna yesterday that made me feel like a gourmet chef.
The front panel of the the backsplash vent is indeed thin and flexible and mine can be pushed like yours.
As for pulling the kickpanel, you might check out the link below which was Susan/dirtybloomers post with photos showing how she replaced the lower overn burner ignitor. I think you just take off the screws and lift and twist up and then out. Looks like she did not need to take off the oven door to do this.
Here is a link that might be useful: Susan's post
Also, the NXR manual is oblivious when it comes to the need to explain mounting and dismounting the oven door, but there are other sources of info. Some Electrolux stoves use the same hinges and E-lux's manual (pp 58 and 59) have helpful illustrations of how to un-mount and re-mount this kind of oven door.
Here is a link that might be useful: Pictures of oven door mounting and alignment
To access the bolts, you'd have to take the panel off.
To take the panel off, you have to remove the door first.
Before you do that, I should tell you that the door side hinges on my 1st door were bent. That's why it wouldn't close properly. I wonder if our ranges are cousins?
Found a gas leak today - the gas pipe to the oven had been shut off, probably for a decade, before this week. Looks like I'll have to postpone troubleshooting door-heat until a "real" plumber (i.e. not me) can patch things up.