where is the F&P dishdrawer "closed" detector?

Fori is not pleasedMay 2, 2013

Howdy. I have a 2010 (ish) DD24. It won't start and I think it "thinks" that the door isn't closed. I don't know where the closed-drawer detector thingy is. I want to see if it's gunky or flipped or otherwise messed up.

Anyone know what to look for? (Anyone know what I'm trying to ask? :P)


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Drawer open/close sensing is an optical detector. There's a infrared emitter and detector on the control board. Look on the right side of the drawer, at the top just behind the front panel for the emitter and detector tubes (just the ends of them are visible). When the drawer is closed, the tubes match to a prism in the cabinet frame that picks up the beam from the emitter tube, bends and feeds it into the detector tube.

There are spring latches at the back-end of the drawer support rails. The latch releases when the drawer is open, catches when closed to help hold it closed. Not uncommon that a latch somehow gets flipped closed when the drawer is open, then doesn't catch when the drawer is closed and prevents it from seating fully.

    Bookmark   May 2, 2013 at 1:07PM
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Fori is not pleased


Unfortunately it seems those things are all in order. The machine has come a little loose in its mounting though. I blame the installer (moi). Maybe it's a little askew and the sensors are not lining up quite right?

I guess I'll use the bottom drawer until this weekend when I'll get to reinstall the machine. For the record, my horrible DIY installation has lasted longer and performed better than any of the "professional" installations I've had on previous DDs. =/

(Except the the teenager FP sent out to do warranty work after a plumber broke a previous DD--that kid was good even though he used his phone for a level.)

    Bookmark   May 2, 2013 at 1:46PM
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Most of the problems it seems are with installation. We did our own and i insisted to add extra support rails, (metal perforated in wood box surround, long L brackets) I had read about the issue and the supplied 'supports' did not seem enough. I can see it possibly working loose over time. If cabinets are not solid wood but a composite material, that might cause an issue over time. I never really though of it, but if you have kids, get appliances without any handles. Get flush mount so they do not run through the kitchen and 'monkey bar' your appliances. : )

    Bookmark   May 2, 2013 at 2:15PM
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Maybe it's a little askew and the sensors are not lining up quite right? That can sometimes be the case.

    Bookmark   May 2, 2013 at 2:24PM
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Fori is not pleased

Our install is a little unorthodox but we thought we'd have it in a remodeled kitchen by now. :)

The cabinetry is almost a inch thick plywood but the hole is too short and too wide. I don't remember what we used for cleats but apparently they weren't good enough. And we had to use substitute feet. I'd hate to attempt a warranty claim. Hehe!

    Bookmark   May 2, 2013 at 2:55PM
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Fori is not pleased

That didn't do it. It's pretty square. Still won't acknowledge being closed. The grabby things in the back are positioned properly.

Any suggestions or is it time for me to call in a repair job? Living off the bottom half of the dishwasher is getting old fast (but I'm glad it works)!


    Bookmark   May 7, 2013 at 12:23AM
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Confirm that there isn't any food debris obstructing the sender & receiver light pipes on side of the tub, and that the prism is not missing from the cabinet frame or loose from proper position.

The tub-home sensor can be checked via diagnostics ... but can't say that'll do much good under the circumstances.

Standard model (LCD) or integrated model (front panel badge, no LCD)?

Open drawer. Turn off power. Press & hold Lock, then press Start at the same time for several seconds for a beep.
- All cycle lights turn on
- LCD turns on, shows all symbols

Press Power once for hardware test mode.
- All cycle lights still on
- LCD shows HO

Drawer closed
- LCD shows lock symbol
- integrated badge, keylock light on

Drawer open
- LCD does not show lock symbol
- integrated badge, keylock light off

Press Power repeatedly (three times?) until off to exit diagnostics.

Only other test could be done is swap the controller boards between top and bottom drawer, check if problem moves along. Replace bad board.

I can send a service manual via e-mail if you want a copy. Send a msg to me via GardenWeb.

    Bookmark   May 7, 2013 at 9:46AM
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Fori is not pleased

Thanks, D.

It's the standard LED version.

It refuses to show the lock symbol under any of those tests--not even when everything is supposed to be displayed. It just blinks off immediately.

Is it difficult to swap out the boards? I'd hate to break it and have both drawers non-cooperative. :)

I'll message you for a manual. I really appreciate it! Thanks!

    Bookmark   May 7, 2013 at 5:04PM
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