Is it OK to put wall-mount range hood in cabinet

gleapmanMay 1, 2012

We want a low-profile, under-cabinet range hood, but the blower assembly on the high-end, low-profile models takes up about the bottom 16-17 inches of the cabinet above the cooktop. So if the hood is 24 inches above the cooktop (as the specs recommend) and the bottom 16 inches of cabinet houses the blower, the first usable shelf in the cabinet is 76+ inches above the floor.

If we installed a wall-mounted hood with a low-profile, flat hood and fully housed the chimney in the cabinet, the first usable shelf would be about 62 inches above the floor...much more convenience. I realize the chimney takes up more space than just a vent hose, but it's worth the trade-off. Also, the chimney would be more attractive than a hose when the cabinet is opened.

We're fully remodeling our small kitchen and cabinet space is at a premium.

I guess there might be an issue of accessing the blower for service (do you normally need to remove the chimney cover?). Otherwise, is there any technical reason (fire hazard, codes, etc) not to do that?

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bill102

In my parent's kitchen they used a shallow range hood which had the blower mounted on top of the hood. The blower intruded into the cabinet and was boxed in. The duct, which went straight up, was also boxed in.

The parent's cabinets were custom built but I don't see why a stock cabinet couldn't be modified. You might want too make sure there is a air gap in between anything burnable.

    Bookmark   May 1, 2012 at 7:01AM
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greendesigns_gw

You need an insert and remote blower.

    Bookmark   May 1, 2012 at 11:16AM
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gleapman

Thanks. An insert is a good idea, but is kind of a last resort.

It may be that I just don't understand them well enough. Just not sure about the performance, since the insert would be just 11-12 inches deep. I would think that the air flow caused by the blower on the roof would be enough to capture anything coming from the front burners. But from all I've read and heard, the experts think it's important that the hood be directly over the burners to capture everything. My understanding is you don't get that with an insert.

Would appreciate more thoughts on inserts.

    Bookmark   May 1, 2012 at 3:40PM
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Tigui

Have you completed this project? I'm curious to know how the venting issue turned out. I have a similar issue in my kitchen. When we built, purchased a downdraft gas stove and that venting system has been a nightmare. When in use, it directs the flames towards the center of the cook top, therefore, changing the whole cooking dynamic. Needless to say, we stopped using it. We figured it would be no problem to purchase a 900+ cfm range hood but now we find we don't have enough clearance between the upper cabinet and stove top (33") for a heavy duty hood. I've been considering the purchase of a wall range hood (about 4" thick/high) with motor sitting on top. The motor/vent has a stainless steel cover (which is removable) and I'm wondering if it's OK to install inside the upper cabinet and vent right outside. With only the 4" thickness I would still have about 29" to spare between the stove top and bottom of hood. I have looked at inserts but all of them have a large metal hood that is permanently fixed to the bottom and none would fit in my cabinet since it's only 12 in deep. If anyone has any other ideas or comments I would appreciate them.

    Bookmark   October 24, 2012 at 6:24PM
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gleapman

We ended up with a Broan 'Power Pack' with an external blower. (see link below photo) We had the upper cabinet constructed with a center channel for the duct so we could still have shelves on each side, plus the duct is covered so it looks great.

The results are mixed. On the plus side, the appearance is great. The Broan Power Pack (the part that installs in the cabinet) it only four inches high, so it eats very little cabinet space, and it uses just an eight-inch duct, so the channel width is reasonable. (Need a bit extra width in the channel so the installers can tape the duct connections.) With the cab doors closed, everything is covered up. With the doors open, it looks clean and we get the convenient shelf space. And with the 600cfm blower, cooking odors get sucked up nicely.

But there are negatives. One is that the Power Pack is cheaply made, but what should you expect for a mere $400?!? (We would have spent more on something nicer, but neither Broan nor anyone else makes something similar with better quality.) Both the fan and lights are controlled by flimsy plastic sliding switches. The housing and the decorative cover bend out of shape easily. And it's difficult, if not impossible, to get the decorative cover to lay flat against the bottom of the cabinet. (Spent only an hour on that issue so far...hoping another 2-3 hours will get it to fit right.) The remote blower (another $400) is in the attic just above the cabinets. I think the installers had never installed a remote blower. They have it sitting right on the joists so some vibration transfers to the cabinets. In the upper cabinet just to the right of the vent hood cabinet, and right below the blower, are drinking glasses. If the glasses are touching each other, we hear the tinkling sound of the glasses vibrating against each other when the blower is on. Separating them fixes the problem. The blower is a bit noisy, but not excessive. But, in some parts of the kitchen you hear an annoying low frequency noise. It's weird. You don't hear it standing at the cooktop, but three feet away you do. The installation instructions include an option to hang the blower from chains attached to the roof supports, which might have addressed the issue. I'm thinking of putting some sort of rubber-like material between the blower and the joists to act as shock absorbers. The point is if you get an external blower, think thru where and how it's mounted.

(Note on photo: Backsplash tile is, literally, on a slow boat from China...was on backorder for 2-1/2 months.)

Here is a link that might be useful: Broan Power Pack

    Bookmark   October 25, 2012 at 11:31AM
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