How many inches of floor space do you need for that little half wall that serves to provide some privacy for the toilet? What's the minimum amount of floor space it would take up? Thanks
If framed with 2x4s, the framing itself will be 3-1/2" wide. Half-inch drywall on each side of the framing will balloon it to 4-1/2" wide. Then if you add baseboard...add that thickness to each side.
The thing is that 5" wide wall is usually all wasted space.
Several times I'll widen the pony wall into a 10-12" wide cabinet for added storage.
Mongoct--thank you so much! That is just what I was looking for and couldn't find searching the Internet. The photo you inserted is lovely. Did you build that?
Your second picture has a toilet area which indeed does look like a THRONE!!!
Look at the ceiling area! All it lacks is the "throne" raised up on a dais. I love your design.
Might I inquire as to the purpose of that area of lower ceiling surrounded by the crown molding? If it had the blower vent or recessed lighting in it, which is what I originally expected, I could understand. Maybe there is some water tank up there to flush the john? I am curious.
auzzy, yes, it's my design and yes, I built them.
moccasinlanding, It is indeed a bit of overkill. That wall is a load-bearing wall with a beam up top. The vent pipe for the toilet jogged into the room just a few inches to go around the beam. So yes, that soffit is way to big for its practical purpose.
The reason I built it was to not just cover the vent pipe, but also to sort of balance the upper trim in the room and sort of segment the bathroom wall into rough thirds; the floor-to-ceiling closet that you can just see in the left of the photo, the center sink area, and the toilet area.
T'aint perfect, but hey, I'm no artist!
Here's the reverse view showing the closet side:
Same with the "sort of" pilaster that runs up the wall from the toilet "pony wall cabinet" to the soffit that covers the vent pipe. Though it does serve a functional purpose of sorts, I thought I'd add that just to define the wall part of the mirror area.
It may be a design and construction head-scratcher now, but it made sense to me at the time!
This remains my favorite bathroom on the gardenweb ever, The presence and definition you imparted to that relatively short wall is incredible. Love the ceiling treatment and the chamfered edges! Stately. A classic. Annaleef
This is a phenomenal idea! thanks for sharing.
Auzzy...great question...I had forgotten about that kind of a wall in a bathroom.
Mongoct...beautiful design and makes so much sense...it looks very classy!!!
"Might I inquire as to the purpose of that area of lower ceiling surrounded by the crown molding?"
to hold the golden curtain rod that will support the red velvet drapes... lol!
I think it's a great bathroom set up! great job.
Not quite, the golden curtain rod will support the hinge and motor assembly for the fold-down 50" plasma screen!
Seriously, thanks for all the kind words. You all have impeccable taste!
I will add this regarding toilet pony walls and storage. There was a thread a while ago, I posted a drawing and maybe even photos of a "regular" pony wall that was framed with 2x6's.
The drywall on the toilet side of the pony wall was opened up and framed out for shelved storage. It was deep enough to hold rolls of toilet paper, etc. The doors in a cabinet like that have to be narrow enough so that when they swing open they don't hit the toilet, or a wider "standard" door can be cut vertically, hinged, and turned into a bifold door. Just like bifold closet doors. But smaller. ;^)
I love pictures like this with clever uses of space for adding storage, that are also gorgeous! This is going in my organization file. We've already done our big reno, but friends of ours are just starting and I bet they'd love this.
I've always thought that it would be cool to take a boat-building class and learn all the little tricks for using every inch of space.
Thanks you for sharing your photo's.
Due to the layout/size of my new master bath - I do not have space for an enclosed water closet or a linen closet. My builder suggested theat on the end of my vanities I put a 18 wide cabinet tower that wuold create privacy for the toilet. Your photos' helped me "see" what he is suggesting...and I love it..
Love it too! It's so practical and just beautiful! We will be doing out very small 8x10 master bath soon and your info and pics are giving me all kinds of ideas!! Do you have additonal pics of the tub/shower area and is that hardwood on the floor? Thanks! Kelli
I love the vessel sink...can you post maker/model?
and also the make/model of the faucet? Love this bathroom - it's beautiful!
Sorry for the tardy reply, I was out of town for a few days. the sink top isn't a true vessel, it's the top of a pedestal sink set onto/into a teak countertop.
Kohler Memoirs, the 30" sink.
harcar, the faucet...I'm thinking it was either a Price Pfister faucet. I think Savannah. But not positive.
Did a quick search, I think it might indeed be the Savannah model, but with lever handles instead of the cross handles as shown in the photo.
Yes, the floor is brazilian cherry over hydronic radiant floor heat. No problems with it at all.
I only have a couple of other shots of this room...
Thanks so much for the pictures!! They really help. We are getting ready to remodel 3 bathrooms and I love how your bath turned out! Just love the tower, vanity, and pony!!!
Thanks again for sharing!
I have always loved your bathroom! What color is on the walls?
I'm not certain of the exact color, I do know that it's Behr, and it's either "Gobi Desert" or "Classic Taupe".
We started with one of those two colors, then determined that it was too light or too dark (probably too light), so we went for a darker shade.
Would you mind posting the measurements of your vanity, tower and pony wall? We are in the planning stages of a bathroom remodel and would love to have something similar. This has to be the most awesome bathroom ever! Thanks
From left to right;
-The closet is 24" deep and 21" wide.
-The three-piece breakfront; the left and right cabs are 21" deep and 18" wide, the center 23" deep and 33-1/2" wide. All three cabs in the breakfront are 33-1/2" tall with a 1-1/2" thick countertop on top, total 35" tall. Sink is 4" thick, so top of sink is 39" high. I'm 6'4, my wife 5'1", we both love it.
-The toilet pony wall is 15-1/2" wide and 33" deep. The cab is 48" tall, with the teak it's 49-1/2" tall.
The 33" deep toilet pony wall has two drawers. The top drawer is not full-depth, there is a false back in the upper drawer hole that reduces that drawer hole depth by maybe 10" or so. The area behind the false back holds three outlets, one that faces the toilet, one that faces the sink, and another outlet on the false drawer hole back to power things my wife keeps in the top drawer. The back of the drawer is cut down for outlet access.
The lower cabinet is full depth, I made a single pull-out unit and put it on 28" long drawer slides. The pullout is divided vertically into two halves, one half faces the sink, the other side the toilet. The side that faces the sink is sort of like a medicine cabinet. The shelves are maybe 3 or 4" deep. The side that faces the toilet is deeper, the shelves are maybe 5 or 6" deep. Deep enough to hold rolls of toilet paper, bathroom and toilet cleaning supplies, etc.
Thank you Mongo, for the prompt reply with all the dimensions. I don't think I've ever seen such a beautiful and functional bathroom before. Thanks again.
You're welcome, and thanks for the kind words!
Lovely and functional. I like the unusual use of the pedestal top for the sink as well as the functional pony wall.
Did that shower wind up getting a glass door added or does the raised floor plus deck in front handle any water sufficiently? I would love to have a doorless shower but have not been able to figure if it would work since our layout was pretty well fixed 20 years ago. I hadn't thought of raising it, but we have 10 ft ceilings and could easily do that (with some plumbing work). Thanks
Nope, it's still doorless. I made a single teak door for the shower, it runs from about mid-shin height to chest height. Mounted on dual-swinging (saloon type) hinges.
While my wife loved the door, she preferred the shower to remain open, so the door gathers dust in the basement.
No significant splash issues either without a door. If one of us is showering the platform pretty much remains dry. If we're both showering with both shower heads going, there might be a few splashes on border tiles right at the curb.
Ok, so what is the size of your shower (hope it isn't a lot larger)? I see a rain shower head above. Where is the other one located -- wall closest to the tub, pointed away from the opening or on the left side pointed across it? Doesn't look like it would be to the right, but I could be wrong. Thanks again.
The main shower head is on the left wall.
That left wall is a bit over 5' long measured from the back left corner to the front left corner where the door opening starts. The shower head is centered on that left wall, about 32" from the door opening.
The back niche wall is about 5' long left-to-right. The right wall is a bit over 7' long. So the overall size of the shower footprint is roughly 5' by 7' with a 45-degree clipped front left corner for the entry door.
That is larger than I have. I'm not sure I can do it because of a window placement. It's in brick, so it isn't going to change.
Couple of questions. Your pedestal sink...did you use the accompanying pedestal for it to plumb into? Long story short...I have a free 4"mini spread pedestal sink but no pedestal. I'd love to save money and use it like you did but need to know what it is plumbed into.
How much smaller could your shower have been if it were built for one person.
"Your pedestal sink...did you use the accompanying pedestal for it to plumb into? "
No, the pedestal top was set on the countertop, I essentially treated it like a drop-in or self-rimming sink. I never purchased the pedestal itself.
The bottom of the sink did have a bit of a flare to the design, so in order to recess the sink into the countertop but still have a functional drawer in the cabinet below, I built a "U" shaped drawer.
"How much smaller could your shower have been if it were built for one person."
Personally I lean towards 42" as a minimum dimension in a shower. That's my rough "elbow-to-elbow" distance. If I had that on one wall I'd be happy. But 36" is about the minimum I'd recommend overall, so a 36" by 42" shower would be okay in my book, and 36" by 36" square would be the smallest I'd recommend overall.
30" is the smallest dimension allowed by code, it's very tight.
Wow. Now THAT's a bathroom!
Mongoct----we love your vanity and sink combo so much we copied it to a degree. We needed a smaller unit so we went with a 24" Memoirs (the stately design model like yours) sink rather than the 30" as you used. I made a 24" single door middle sink cabinet for the sink and made 16" drawer units to the left and right of the sink cabinet. Question---what did you use for sealing the sink to the wood counter top and my main concern is the sealing between the back of the sink and the backsplash. I assume by looking at your photos that your sink is pushed up solid against the backsplash and sealed with silicone. Same with the bottom of sink.
Another vote on a gorgeous bathroom. Cabinetry is stunning. I showed my brother the pictures (cabinet installer who dabbles in building) and told him that I want something similar for my remodel. Only problem is he's in Arizona and I'm in Oklahoma.
Thanks for being an inspiration!
Thanks to all for the kind words.
Pieinsky, yes, I bedded the sink in a bead of clear silicon. Where the sink meets the backsplash, I first ran a bead of silicon on the back of the sink, then pushed it onto the backsplash. I cleaned away the minimal squeeze-out. That way the silicon was sort of sandwiched between the porcelain and the splash and somewhat hidden instead of being a topical cove of silicon on the surface of the sink. Nothing wrong with a topical cove, I was just looking for a cleaner (to the eye) installation.
FWIW, with the large sink bowl and the generous width of the rim on this sink, splish-splash water slop isn't a problem.
Mongoct--Thank you for the help and thanks again for sharing what I think is one of the prettiest bathrooms ever.
Mongoct-I love this bathroom, and will be using it as my inspiration for my next bathroom remodel. I love how the pedestal sink top sits on the countertop...more substantial than a drop-in, and less severe than a vessel.
how did you template the hole in the counter for the 'set-in'?
janniemac, my goodness, you have impeccable taste! lol.
I simply flipped the sink upside-down and measured the width of the flare on the underside of the sink. I then made the hole larger than the flare so the flared part would fit in the cutout and the flat underside of the sink perimeter would sit on the countertop.
Same concept for the "U" shaped drawer that fits around the flare of the sink and the drain tailpiece. Although cutting the dovetails for those drawer parts did have me scratching my head for a few minutes to make sure I got the pins and tails on the correct ends of each piece of the drawer.
I don't want to hijack, but I want to ask a pony wall question. Mongo, I think you're just the guy to answer and this post has your attention. Can you build a pony wall for a shower around a pre-formed tile base?
From all I've gathered, there isn't a good person in my area to build a mud pan from scratch the size I need for my shower. I'm looking into a pre-formed tile base instead. I would like to have a pony wall enclose part of the shower. Is this possible? Thank you so much!
Sure you can. Depending on layout, I'll extend the studs that make up the "free" end of the pony wall below the bathroom subfloor and tie them off to the bathroom floor floor joists. Attach them either directly to the joists if they fall next to the joists, or secure them to them with blocking if they land away from the joists, somewhere in the joist cavity.
The same idea as securing a newel post for a stairway. That adds a great amount of rigidity to the wall, especially if the wall will be 2x4 construction.
Thanks Mongo. The framing makes sense. I guess I was wondering more about the curb issues. The tile pan has a curb on the front. Do you build the wall on the outside of the pan so you have the curb abutting the wall?
I'd like glass above the pony wall meeting with a frameless glass door. It seems like from my limited understand that there would be a gap between where the end of the wall and door on the pan curb meet. Right? Because the wall sticks farther into the room than the tile pan. I'm sure I'm not making sense.
Do you put a small piece of glass in between?