leaking water pump

paddleNovember 5, 2006

Hi, i drive a 93 plymouth sundance with only 114,000 km's, nice little car. Noticed one day a little puddle of coolant, checked it out and only leaked after the car was parked, not while driving. It is not coming from the weeping hole(and no screeching sound) I believe it's coming from the water pump gasket, is this common? Is there a simpler way to the repair without removing the pump? If I do remove it, might as well replace it.

thanx for any info!!!

jim from Canada

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
semper_fi

Jim,

I very rarely see a water pump gasket being the cause of a coolant leak. Almost always it's either the shaft seal or the vent hole(s). I am assuming that this is the 4cyl. and not the 3.0L v6 version because you couldn't easily see the pump on a v6 model w/o removing the timing cover. The timing belt must be removed to access the pump, so if the belt hasn't been changed in a while, that would be a good time to do it all.

Good luck,
-Mark
ASE Master Tech

    Bookmark   November 5, 2006 at 10:33AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
paddle

Thanx Mark, it is the 4 cylinder 2.2 litre engine. Are you saying the timing belt has to be removed for the 4 cylinder or the 6 cylinder? I can easily see the pump when i removed a plastic shrode right under the pump( and all the belts). I would lay under the car and my wife would start the car and nothing would leak from the pump itself, but after it sat for a while there was coolant on the 2 lower bolts(of the pump) and the seam of the gasket looked wet, and maybe a teaspoon of fluid on the ground.
thanx again
jim
p.s. is it a belt or chain?

    Bookmark   November 5, 2006 at 12:02PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
gary__

**I would lay under the car and my wife would start the car and nothing would leak from the pump itself, but after it sat for a while there was coolant on the 2 lower bolts(of the pump) and the seam of the gasket looked wet, and maybe a teaspoon of fluid on the ground.**

Sounds like you've already identified the problem. The way I'd try to repair it would be to first check those bolts to see how tight they are. If they're loose, tighten them a little and see if it improves. If not, remove the bolts and put some thread sealer on them and reinstall. If the bolts actually screw into the water jacket you might have to drain the coolant first. The cleaner you can get the threads both on the cap screw and in the block, the better luck you'll have. In addition to that, you can put in some alumaseal or other coolant stop leak. It works pretty well on minor leaks. Some claim use of such products plugs the heater core or radiator. IMO, those claims are baseless. jmo

    Bookmark   November 5, 2006 at 2:55PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
semper_fi

"Are you saying the timing belt has to be removed for the 4 cylinder or the 6 cylinder?"

Yes, that's what I'm saying! :-)

Seriously though, BOTH engines require timing belt removal to access the pump but the good news is that the task on the 4 cylinder is a MUCH easier proposition than it's v6 counterpart. The 3.0L engines of that genre had a crazy setup with a crosspipe going from the back of the engine all the way into the back of the waterpump. Fun stuff in a masochistic kinda way!

On the 2.2 & 2.5L engine, it appears that the water pump is right there for the taking but the Mopar folks are teasing you! What you see is most of the pump. The rest of it is behind the timing belt cover. This is a very straightforward job so even if the pump does need replacement, it is not a big deal. If you do tackle the job yourself, just pay close attention to your timing marks (including the balance shaft which controls distributor indexing). This is NOT an interference engine so you wouldn't risk damaging the engine even if the timing marks were set incorrectly. But needless to say, the engine would not run correctly (if at all) if the valve timing was off.

Best wishes,
-Mark

    Bookmark   November 5, 2006 at 9:14PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
archebald23

yes i agree, most probably it will have to do with the selector shaft seal, i once had a similar problem and what semper is saying did all the trick.

    Bookmark   April 7, 2010 at 9:56PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jemdandy

Your engine: 1993, 2.2 L, 4cy, 114,000 KM (70,836 Miles)
Wow! That is low mileage for year 1993.

At one time, my wife had a 1989 Plymouth Sundance (US version). I've got a repair manual for the '89 2.2 and 2.5 L 4cy, plus the 3.0 L V6 engines. I believe that the layout of the 2.2 and 2.5 L engines remained about the same up through '93. I'll be quoting from the '89 manual.

Drive belt: From what I see, the water pump is driven by an accessory belt, not the timing belt. (The water pump on the 3.0 L V6 is driven by the timing belt.) There are 2 to 3 accessory belts on the 2.2 and 2.5 L engines; 3 belts when equipped with an air conditioner compressor. However, the water pump housing is behind the timing belt so that will likely have to come off.

The water pump on this engine is unusual in that it has a 2 piece housing. The book labels the back part, "Housing" and the front part, "Body assembly". These two halves are held together with 9 screws; a gasket is between the halves. Here is a potential for a leak. The tigntening torque specified for these 9 screws is 12 Nm (105 in-lb).

The water pump assembly is fastened to the engine with 3 screws at the top and one screw much lower down. [Torque for the top 3 screws is 30 Nm (250 in-lb) and the bottom, 68 Nm (50 ft-lb)]

You could try checking those 9 screws for tightness if you can get at those without disturbing the timing belt and sprockets. However, the drawing in my book doesn't look promising. I think the intermediate sprocket (associated with the timing belt) covers 2 of the 9 screws.

    Bookmark   April 8, 2010 at 3:41AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
swagger

i have an 04 chrysler sebring convertable 2.7l i have coolent pouring out from the pump and i have mogi they say they wont pay for it if its not the impeller shaft,bearings,brushings or housing they were trying to tell my mechanic they dont cover leaks only the above and he said its impossible to take it apart to tell because it requires special tools and the person he was talking to is not even a mechanic more or less someone just there to tell u that they wont pay can someone tell me what then may be the cause of this coolent flow??

    Bookmark   June 23, 2010 at 11:11PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
john_g

Mogi, first I heard of that one but an quick internet search came up with a few hits.

http://www.bbb.org/stlouis/business-reviews/auto-service-contract-companies/mogi-in-saint-charles-mo-310241530

Too many to link them all so that's the BBB's take on them and you can find more here.
http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&aq=1&oq=mogi&ie=UTF-8&rlz=1T4ADSA_enUS335US335&q=mogi+scam

They don't pay for leaks? The seals fail in that water pump just like any other one. They know that too.

    Bookmark   June 23, 2010 at 11:55PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
juancarrillo16_yahoo_com

my car is a chevy malibu 05 classic and today we left to the store and when we had got there and turned the car off i saw a huge leak coming from my car i saw that the fluid in my resevoir was empty can someone please tell me what probably is the problem thankyou............and i dont here no noises coming from engine at all........

    Bookmark   May 7, 2011 at 9:17PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Brake fluid flush
I've had new brakes installed in the past. However,...
africanboy
Tire Question
I have a 2007 Honda Ridgeline with 13,000 miles (yes,...
momrox4
1992 Chevy Truck 1500 running BAD!
About 2 1/2 years ago my truck was running bad, had...
arkansas_girl
Blown tire on a dying car........
Well, in my other post I talked about how my transmission...
catherinet
Radio antenna badly bent at car wash
I know this is going to sound really stupid but what...
africanboy
Sponsored Products
36 x 36 Stone shower base Genuine Gray Granite - SERENA
Living'ROC
6 in. New Construction Shallow IC Airtight Ho
PLFixtures
Acrylic Oliver Beverage Dispenser with Infuser
Classic Hostess
Henri Studio Valencia Cherub Garden Fountain
Lamps Plus
36-38-42" Neo Angle Gray Granite Shower Pan - NICE
Living'ROC
Black 28-Oz. Dial Container
$8.99 | zulily
Henri Studio Nebbia Grande Kensington 3-Tier Fountain
Lamps Plus
Cylinder Beverage Dispenser With Chained Black Board On Rack
Classic Hostess
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™