Bad Window Switch on Chrysler T&C

mary_228May 21, 2005

Anyone else have this switch go bad? This is the one that controls the drivers window.

I replaced it at 84000 miles (last July) and it went bad again in April (under warranty, at least). Now it's bad again! Anyone else with this problem?

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I've got one right now that is bad on an 2001 Voyager - at least I hope it is the switch. It used to be a bit cranky after it rained, and now it won't work at all. By any chance did the window start closing slowly sometimes before it died? If not, my problem might be the motor. One of these days I've got to start taking the door apart and find out for sure.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2005 at 8:35PM
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If your window switches are of the plain mechanical snap variety, and their actions feels ok, then a broken wire in the door bundle can mimic a bad switch. A wire can break inside its insulation, then occasionaly make contact when the door is opened or closed. A broken snap switch will have a different feel than a good switch.

In either case, removing the inside trim panel of the door to get at the works is probably required to cure this problem.

If its only the driver side window, and all other windows work, then its probably something amiss with this regulator and motor, or window guide parts.

    Bookmark   May 22, 2005 at 2:29AM
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Sometimes a shot or two of WD-40 down in the switch can bring it back.

    Bookmark   May 22, 2005 at 10:02PM
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Thanks, I'll have to give get in there and see whatI can find out. Both the drivers side and the passenger side have had problems at times, but the drivers side seems to have gotten worse and lately the passenger side has been fine. I can't say whether the passenger side control works when it seems to be acting up (from the drivers side). I will have to try that next time.

    Bookmark   May 23, 2005 at 6:21AM
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Measure the current that the motor is drawing. You'll probably find that the drivers window motor is drawing more than the others, and is in need of replacement. A bad motor (dragging, hi amperage draw) will kill the relay inside the switch that operates the auto down function.

BTW, there are so many variations of this circuit ths may not directly apply to yours, but the failure is common to many different cars.

    Bookmark   May 23, 2005 at 8:14AM
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I missed your message until just now. I wish I had seen it because I finally got around to taking the door apart this weekend. I ended up just cleaning the contacts on the motor and putting it back together. It is working fine now, but it is a little louder than the other motor. I was going to replace it, but the parts store didn't have one in stock and I was at my vacation home at the time and I was coming home the next day.

It seems like it would be hard to connect the leads and a jumper to check the current, but I guess it is doable if you have the right clips and probes. I thought it was odd that there seemed to be a voltage when the switch was in the up position but not when it was in the down position (or maybe the other way around). How does that work? I expected opposite polarity but I didn't get any readings like that the way I did it (just jacking into the connector which plugs into the motor).

    Bookmark   June 8, 2005 at 1:48PM
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