Has anyone out there tryed Peel Away??? It has no fumes or flammable solvents, the VOC is zero and it is supposed to remove up to 30 coats of paint in one application. Please tell me about your experience with this product.
Since we discovered PeelAway products 4 yrs ago, we have always had #7 on hand, but we have used #1, too. We first used it to remove 4-5 layers paint from out brick fireplace. It worked wonderfully (#1). Then we used #7 to strip paint off 7 door frames and 1 window in the upstairs hallway of our 4 square. We're pretty sure there were 5 layers of paint involved in this project. It's messy because to get it off you have to spray it with vinegar to neutralize it. When we did the doorframes and window, we had to take extra precautions to keep it off the hardwood floors because it took the finish off the floor, right where the frames met the floor. The instructions say to leave it on for 24 hrs - do that, don't scrimp on time. Don't apply it super thin. If you don't get it off and it starts to dry, add more and it will get wet again and you can get if off. Buy loads of paper towel before you start.
I swear by Peelaway. We've never used any of the others with no fumes, nor have we used a silent paint remover so I can't compare.
I'm starting this weekend to strip a mission rocking chair with #7.
I hope that helps - it not, please ask questions.
Kec, thank you so much for the information. I do have a few more questions. The hardware store only carries #1. Could you tell me the difference between the #1 and #7? I want to strip a 2 drawer victorian chest that has spiral legs. It measures 36" x 18" and has about 3 coats of paint that need to be removed. Do you think that 1 quart whould do it? It is expensive and I am on a budget. Will #1 do the job as well as #7? I appreciate your feedback. Have a wonderful day.
I wanted to chime in -- we used a different but similar type of product (takes of multiple layers of paint) and here was my experience:
1. If by chance someone painted latex over oil paint, the latex will pull away from the oil paint and the product will not, in fact, take off all the layers in one fell swoop because the latex pulling away keeps it from penetrating the oil. Let me tell you how aggravated I was when I waited all that time and only the one layer came off. Had to re-coat all the window frames and I just wanted to cry. After the re-coat, it went as advertised.
2. Definitely wait for the period of time it tells you. Starting any earlier just makes it harder on you and may cause you to need to re-coat.
3. Definitely protect those floors, as mentioned above. Use plastic if you can, since if a blob gets on fabric, it will seep through and still do some damage to the floor finish (I'm talking about finished hardwood, don't know about any other kind).
4. Have fun peeling! It really is a beautiful, fun thing to peel it all off in a snap!
Here's how the PA website describes the 2 and the dif. between:
PEEL AWAY I works best when oil/lead based paint is the prime coating on the surface. Coverage is 15-20 sq. feet per gallon
7 - Specially formulated to remove oil/latex paints, it will also remove almost all chemically resistant coatings, and is designed for use on a variety of substrates, including wood, brick, stone, plaster,metal, fiberglass, graphite and steel.
The main difference is the type of paint you'll be removing. I think 7 is cheaper than 1. Can your paint store order 7 for you?
Alice thanks for the advice. Plan to do the stripping out doors, weather permitting. I'll have to read label to see acceptable temperature drops. I would assume since it is old that the paint is an oil base and not the combination that gave you all of that grief.
Kec, thank you again for the attention that you have given me regarding this matter. The store ordered the 1 quart size #1 for stock which has yet to arrive . I doubt that they would special order me one can. This one will more than likely do the trick. This chest has been sitting in the spare room for 2 years now so it is time for me to take charge and clean it up.
Thank you all.
Original peel-away (#1) is really caustic to the point where it will cause a color change on many woods. It turns pine greenish and oak a dark brown. The color change is permanent and irreversible. if you are planning on staining the wood dark anyway, or just repainting, it is fine. The new formula (#7) does not have this color change characteristic.
But, be wary of using either one on furniture. Both formulas probably will result in dramatic grain-raising, and neither can be trusted on veneered pieces, IMO. Peel away is the only thing that will take off milk paint, btw.
Thanks Casey. I do plan to paint it, however, I will buy the number 7. What is IMO?
IMO = In My Opinion.
Never used it--but I ALWAYS use a heat gun to remove multiple layers of paint. Outdoors when I can, and with a niosh mask when indoors. (lead paint fumes) Heat gun takes everything at once, and fast-- with a triangular scraper. After that--Circa 1850 furniture stripper (meth chloride based) and fine steel wool to clean up. No discolouration to woods or patinas.
Robin, Good luck with your chest. Let us know how it turns out.
just used peel away 1 on a tin ceiling. what a job that was. the house is an 1860 antique with little detail so that preserving the tin ceiling was important in the stairwell. i figure 1 coat of paint every 10 yrs minimum so that is about 15 layers of paint. old oil paints with lots of good lead and mercury plus a highly patterned tin design made heat guns verboten!
i applied the stripper as per instructions, covered it with the provided paper and bought some more. it worked but what a mess. the paint did not come off with the paper but happily fell down like farm yard turds. applying the stuff was not the easiest either since while working overhead, some of it fell. aside from the annoyance of losing any of this expensive material, it proved to be extremely caustic. it begins to burn upon contact with skin. the gloves provide dont permit cuffing so it was easy for the stuff to get under the edges of the glove. i would up with a major necrotic burn which i was unaware of because of my focus on the work. it has taken 2 weeks for it to lose its dead skin & scab and begin to fill in. very dangerous stuff.
although it did a respectable job if you dont expect perfection, it was less than stellar around the edges of the ceiling on the crown moldings. too much air gets under the edges and interferes with the chemical action.
i did try in on simpler surfaces; ie some door trim and a couple of flat vertical door panels. the removal was more successful, but the paper still did not adhere to the goo.
a call to tech support at dumond gave me the suggestion of working with smaller paper pieces, applying the goo to the paper and then lifting in into place. not a doable idea on the ceiling. the paper became too heavy and curled on itself while trying to lift it up. not a one person job.
i would use the product again and will on the doors and some of the trim, but protecting the floor is a must and wearing long cuffable gloves essential.
Does anyone know if Peel-Away would work on wicker furniture?
No there is no way you can strip paint from wicher and not destroy the wicker.
OK, how do I remove the paint? I have old painted wicker and have added a few coats over the years. Latex and oil! I would like to get all the layers off and paint it a creamy color instead of white.