XPS...Owens Corning...clueless??

matt_rOctober 10, 2007

Called Owens to find who sells the Insulpink. While on the phone with their supposed "technical" experts, I got several conflicting answers. First they said I could not build my wall out from the panels...I wanted to glue the panels to the wall, then frame with 2X4's or 2X3's to be able to install wires, speaker wires, etc. I did not want to imbed them into the 1-1/2 foam panel. I am not happy with the amount of room that leaves me. There are just too many things that need to go into this wall. They said, I must install the sheetrock directly onto the surface of the foam panel using the firring cut outs they have.

And when I asked about installing extra unfaced insulation in the framed wall, they said they could not provide direction on that...????

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worthy

If there are furring cuts in the Insulpink, use a product, such as Owens Foamular, that comes with a tongue and groove (also called shiplap) edge profile. The method Owens suggests works well--as long as you'll settle for below Code insulation (in most places) and your walls will have no receptacles, switches, or lights.

For reference, go to Building Science Corporation.

    Bookmark   October 10, 2007 at 4:47PM
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Brewbeer

Maybe they are trying to steer you into buying their high-priced basement finishing system.

I would just go ahead and glue the XPS to the wall, and the install your framing in front of the XPS. Insulate the framing with unfaced FG.

Otherwise, you could build your wall about 2 inches out from the masony wall, install ALL of your wires and cabling, and then have closed cell foam insulation installed. They "blow" it in with specialized equipment that mixes two ingredients at the gun nozzle, and it expands to fill all the cracks and gaps.

    Bookmark   October 10, 2007 at 6:57PM
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lewisnc100

Not sure about Owens Corning, but Dow has some simple steps on their site:

Interior Basement Wall (Foam and Stud Wall Framing) - Installing STYROFOAMÂ Square Edge, Tongue & Groove, SCOREBOARDÂ, Super TUFF-RÂ, or TUFF-R

1. Install insulation over interior side of basement wall. Foam insulation may be held in place temporarily using spots of compatible adhesive.

2. Build conventional wood stud wall that firmly presses foam insulation against basement wall.

3. Install unfaced batts in stud cavities.

4. Install drywall over studs.

5. Tape and finish drywall according to manufacturer's directions.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dow Link

    Bookmark   October 11, 2007 at 10:13AM
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bosun2

I just glued 1.5 foamular to my walls. I used a lot of polyurethane glue. (This is foam safe.) I then built a 2x4 wall inside of that. I haven't decided if I will insulate with fiberglass also. I'm a little worried about the long term reality of condensation and fiberglass in a basement wall.

My house was built in 1924. The walls were so imperfect--gluing the foam on was a trick.

    Bookmark   October 11, 2007 at 10:32AM
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mowers

The owens (I agree..clueless) told me vapor would condense in the dead air space. I found them technically clueless..just call takers reading from sheets.

    Bookmark   October 11, 2007 at 1:11PM
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worthy

I haven't decided if I will insulate with fiberglass also. This works fine, according to Buildling Science Corp. It's now one of my preferred methods. The best, but usually the most costly, is closed cell spray on the walls.

"Dead space" doesn't' create condensation. Condensation in a home occurs when warm air meets a cold surface; or when the humidity is past the saturation level.

    Bookmark   October 11, 2007 at 4:28PM
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marys1000

But to have warm area (or cold air warm surface) you have to have air - and isn't that what you have in dead spaces?

    Bookmark   October 27, 2007 at 7:42AM
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worthy

The foam against the wall ensures there is no meeting of cold to warm air in the "dead space", as long as you're sure to attach the foam securely to the wall and seal any openings.

    Bookmark   October 27, 2007 at 9:53PM
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chris8796

I would go with either xps or fiberglass, no need for both. Take the money you saved and spray foam the rim/band joist area. They have DIY kits for this online.

    Bookmark   October 29, 2007 at 2:09PM
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lewisnc100

Chris,

Can you post some of the DIY links you're thinking of for the spray foam. Love to find that for the rim joists and air sealing in the attic. Thanks.

    Bookmark   October 29, 2007 at 2:45PM
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mowers

What does the rim/band joist area mean?

    Bookmark   October 30, 2007 at 12:20PM
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chris8796

Lewis,

Google "spray foam insulation diy" numerous links available, its still expensive.

Mowers,

The rim and band joists are the boards that your floor joists connect too. Here is a picture

    Bookmark   October 30, 2007 at 2:55PM
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