Preparing for basement finishing

cathyllAugust 18, 2006

We took care of our humidity problem by using a dehumidifier and also wrapping all the cold water pipes with foam. Everything appears to be all set. Do you think it's safe to start finishing the walls, floors, ceiling, etc.?

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have you been in the house a while?
It's good to know if theres a history of flooding before you get started.
In any case, a sump pump (and backup) is always a good idea if you don't have one.

Also, did you do the moisture test?

I think the dehumidifier is a good idea. I bought one for my basement too.

Enjoy your new basement!

    Bookmark   August 18, 2006 at 10:44AM
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Hi cathyll,

I take it you know about the fundimentals of finishing...vapour barriers, insulation etc. If not, keep on posting...there are a lot of good and knowledgable people here.

Have fun!

    Bookmark   August 18, 2006 at 11:11AM
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I just finished a basement for someone using Dens Armor Plus wallboard instead of regular drywall. Since it's not faced with paper, it supposedly will not be a potential feeding ground for mold. (search "stop feeding mold" and you'll find it). Anybody else used this yet?

Now I'm going to again use it in our own basement finishing, since water gets in one way or another every couple of years (like when forgetting to clean the gutters, or when there's a huge rain deluge for 7 days straight (had that 6 weeks ago), or when a rare big snow event sits out there for weeks and pushes against the house forcing some water in, etc, etc.)

Incidentally, while they advertize that it goes up just like regular drywall, I found a few differences in working with it. Since the facing has some sort of fiberglass, it's very hard on your skin and I found that my technique of hoisting it with my knee scratched the skin right off my knee after a couple days..just like scraping your knee on the sidewalk. My arms were itching like hell, so I think the fibers get into your skin, and it would therefore be a good idea to use a mask (like when working with insulation). It also seemed a bit flimsier during install, though fine and solid enough when it's up. Seems that one "might" have to be a bit more careful not to overload "nail-in" picture hangers that aren't in studs, but maybe that's just my imagination. Not sure about that yet. On the "plus" side", it cuts, snaps and shaves easier. (BTW, it's about the same price as greenboard around here in Wash DC, and seems to be stocked in only one of our many Home Depots)

Motivation? I just completed a basement job that required wet/damaged/moldy drywall to be cut out and replaced on the bottoms of all the basement walls. That was a wake-up call for preventing water or moisture in the first place, as well as taking all the precautions you can. In that job, during our 7 day deluge, water got into the basement several ways 1) behind the gutters and behind the siding..down into the basement (so we installed a drip edge behind the gutters for the future) 2) via deteriorated chimney flashing (so that was repaired) 3) via a new crack in the foundation wall (repaired that, and regraded "away" from the house)

Water will eventually find a way in, so be prepared.

    Bookmark   August 22, 2006 at 8:17AM
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Good advice! A method I've used is to rest the bottom plate of the stud wall on a half-inch of Styrofoam and cut the drywall an inch up from the floor. I've also framed with steel--less food for mould. And no nail pops.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2006 at 10:27PM
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