Subfloor with Delta-FL -- OSB or plywood

bcrawfo2April 29, 2007

I'm putting in Delta-FL in my basement under carpet and am looking for opinions on whether to use OSB or plywood. Both would be tongue and groove. My costs are $15 or $25, so the difference is pretty significant. My basement is very dry, using the Delta-FL as insurance and to also add a little bounce and insulation.

Thanks for any input.


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Delta makes no distinction between ply or OSB in its installation instructions.

Here is a link that might be useful: Installing Delta FL

    Bookmark   April 29, 2007 at 11:18PM
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I saw as a homeowner doing my own basement...I kind of lean to the better material (higher cost)...but that's how we go over budget.
I guess I'll go with OSB and save some $.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2007 at 7:13AM
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I used Platon (which is very similar to Delta FL) with 3/4" T&G OSB. I had pretty good luck. I do recommend adding high quality landscape fabric under the Delta FL if laying on concrete. The only reference to this in the Delta FL instructions was in Figure 1 which it refers to as optional sound reduction material. A friend used the Platon without the fabric underneath and if the OSB / plywood warps slightly due to humidity variation between screws there was an audible 'click' as the plastic Platon contacted the cement when walked on. The landscape fabric fixes this concern and can withstand any moisture that it may see during it's lifetime.

From what I understand, OSB is supposed to be more dimensionally stable (less suseptable to warp) than plywood and expands and contracts more uniformly, which are good things in this type of application. In fact, if you look at the Dri-core brand of subfloor, it uses OSB (actually random wafer board), not plywood.

Hope this helps.

    Bookmark   April 30, 2007 at 1:44PM
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I've got Platon ready to go into my basement as well. Curious what approach you took for screwing it down. Did you just screw the perimeter, under interior walls etc? The instructions are kind of weak on recommendations for this.

    Bookmark   May 2, 2007 at 12:22PM
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I used 1/4" x 2-1/4" Tapcon screws and for now have just placed them around the perimeter . Then on the OSB sheets inboard of the perimeter I put a screw at each end of each sheet (plus a spot or two that warped up a bit).

Being lazy and Tapcons being the hassle they are (with pre-drilling and all) I figured the powder actuated nails I'm using to fasten the bottom plates of the framed walls will do the same function as the tapcons. So now that I'm finished framing, I need to go back put more Tapcons in; especially in the high traffic areas. I don't know if this is the best advise, but it's what I plan to do, for what it's worth.

    Bookmark   May 6, 2007 at 7:08PM
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Thanks for the info.

    Bookmark   May 8, 2007 at 7:59AM
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Hmmmm. How does this method compare to the dri-core? How about costs vs the too?

With dricore, you have the wall framing (bottom plate ) go on top of the dricore; so what about this stuff? does the framing go on top of it?

    Bookmark   July 7, 2007 at 1:10AM
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I found the costs cheaper for Delta-FL. You'll need to do the math yourself. My delta-fl costs were $.50 per sq foot, plus about $15 per 4x8 sheet of OSB (given my posts above). That gives me just under $1 per sq foot.
Dricore was $6 per 2x2 tile. That's $1.50 per sq foot.
Transport for me seemed easier too. I'd rather move a large box of delta-fl and then sheet goods than 100 2x2 tiles.

As far as framing over dricore...I think installing dricore later is also an acceptable option. I guess it depends on how many partitions you have. You'd have to read if you can put walls on top of delta-fl.

I'd take the advice above about landscaping fabric. I had some "clicks" that I resolved by installing more tapcons. On that yourself a favor and rent a Hilti drill for the tapcons. Home Depot rented for $50 a day (bit included).

    Bookmark   July 7, 2007 at 7:54AM
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I just finished two rooms in my basement with DriCore and I'm pretty impressed with the product. Anyone with a table saw should have a pretty easy time with it.

Even though I used the Dricore shims where the floor was irregular, I still have a few places where I hear the knock of Dricore against concrete when you step on it. The laminate flooring helped, but it didn't elimate the noise. In retrospect, I think I could have done a better job to eliminate the noises with more careful shimming, but I was moving along at a fairly rapid pace and lost track.

I put in enough Tapcons in the bottom plates of the walls I built to appreciate not needing them with the Dricore. Plus, the Dricore people dwell on the fact that this is a floating floor, and attaching it to the concrete wasn't recommended.

I ordered the DriCore directly from the manufacturer (Home Depot had dropped them by the time I was ready to buy), so it showed up on my driveway on a pallet. After carrying 85 sheets of drywall by hand to the basement, 2x2 squares was a welcome change. I think it wound up being about $1.25/sqare foot.


    Bookmark   July 9, 2007 at 12:37PM
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Bill, do you have pics? How did you put up your framing; on top of dricor or on the floor? I thought I read dricor reccomended putting on top of dricor?


    Bookmark   July 17, 2007 at 11:53PM
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Sorry - No pictures. I took a lot of video (non-digital) but forgot to take pictures of the Dricore before I put the laminate over it.

Most of the basement was already framed with load-bearing 2x6 stud walls. I had to build stud walls in front of a few concrete walls, but I attached those directly to the slab as well.

It's been a while since I've been to the DriCore website, but I seem to remember that they said you 'could' put non-load-bearing wall structures on top of DriCore but I don't remember them recommending it one way or another.

For what it's worth, there's another product out there called SubFlor, which looks like a DriCore clone to me. Plus, if I remember correctly, there's not too much difference in street addresses between DriCore and SubFlor.


    Bookmark   July 20, 2007 at 7:31AM
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