frame a few wall sections....

andrelaplume2February 3, 2009

I have not done this in a while. I need to frame a 9' section that adjoins a 12 foot section at 90 degress. Am I better off attaching the top and bottom plate then adding the uprights OR should I build the wall first, stand it up, slide into place and then secure to the rafters / floor...method 2 sounds easier but may not...

What type of nails are you using in a basement? If preassmbling the wall, do you nail through the top plate and base plate or toe nail.

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mike_kaiser_gw

Build the wall on the floor then stand it up. Remember to measure the distance between each joist and the floor. Then either use either the shortest distance for your wall studs (and shim the rest) or you can measure each distance and cut your studs appropriately (the latter is probably best if you have a large variance over the length of the wall).

Don't forget to use pressure treated lumber for your bottom plate. Construction adhesive and nails (or Tapcons) bottom plate into the floor. Nail into joists. 12p nails.

    Bookmark   February 3, 2009 at 11:26AM
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andrelaplume2

gotcha. Already have the tapcons. As I prebuild on tthe floor it would seem easier to nail a couple nails throught the top of the top plate/baseplate as opposed to toe-nailing...what do you think?

    Bookmark   February 3, 2009 at 11:54AM
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mike_kaiser_gw

As I prebuild on tthe floor it would seem easier to nail a couple nails throught the top of the top plate/baseplate as opposed to toe-nailing...

Yup. That's one advantage to building it on the floor.

    Bookmark   February 4, 2009 at 7:35PM
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homebound

I don't know how many folks actually do this, but it's helpful to align the crown of the studs in the same direction (crown to exterior). I mark them with a sharpie before I assemble the wall to avoid the odd bowed stud.

    Bookmark   February 5, 2009 at 11:42AM
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billinpa

Make sure your basement slab is perfectly flat before you build the wall and stand it up. I tried with only taking a few measurement. Well one side was snug, the middle was tight and the other side has a 1/4 inch gap. Of course now that I made more measurements and put up a few more walls i see now my floor varies as much as 1/2 inch. From now on a I have to lay the top and bottom plates and cut each stud to fit. PIA but the only way it works on my floor.

    Bookmark   February 5, 2009 at 2:30PM
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andrelaplume2

I will heed your advise!

One end of this 12' span could be anchored thru my XPs into the concrete wall...If I can find a few 4 1/4 tapcons somewhere. The bottom will be tapconed to the floor with 2 1/4 tapcons. Can I just adhesive the top plate to the I BEAM? Do you think friction will suffice? Also the I-Beam is 6". Can I still just use 2 X 4 offset to one side of the I-BEAM? Note the area BEHIND this wall will not be finished...its my storage room....no need to hide the I BEAM back there.

Use nails with or without heads?

    Bookmark   February 5, 2009 at 3:13PM
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worthy

Drill or powder charge the beam. Wood shrinks. Don't depend on friction or adhesive.

    Bookmark   February 5, 2009 at 5:59PM
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velvetfoot

I found the 4" tapcons I used not at HD, but at the local hardware store.

When you toenail, how many do you use on each side?

    Bookmark   February 8, 2009 at 7:25PM
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