How to tie down bottom plate

betaiotaJanuary 14, 2007

I've put up all of my walls in my basement finishing project, and my method of attaching the pressure-treated bottom plate to the concrete floor was with construction adhesive. Before I went to drywall (and call the inspector) I gave a good pull on one of the walls and it moved! In many areas, the construction adhesive pulled away.

So what's the best way to attach the bottom plate to concrete? Can I use those blue concrete screws? Or some sort of nail???

THANKS!!

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

Powder driven fastners or tapcons.

    Bookmark   January 14, 2007 at 1:45PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
homebound

Brickeyee, what's the trick to using tapcons for that use?

I was using 1/4 thick tapcons, predrilled the wood, put some adhesive down, layed the plate down, used the bit that came with the tapcons in a hamerdrill to bore the concrete hole....and then couldn't get those screws down all the way down into the hole. I tried with a regualer drill, then a 1/2 inch drill, then a hammerdrill, then by hand, all to no avail.

(So I decided the heck with it and used the ramset instead - infinitely easier)

    Bookmark   January 14, 2007 at 11:52PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jgodfrey

Just drill a hole using a good masonry bit and hammer drill. Make sure the bit is the right size for the tapcon and that it's deep enough. Important - make sure you run the bit in and out of the hole a number of times in order to completely clear out the concrete dust. I'd bet your problem was that a lot of the dust from the created from drilling ended up in the bottom of the hole, effectively making the it too shallow.

Get the right sized hole, make it deep enough, and clear it out (maybe a shop vac?), and you shouldn't have any problems.

Jeff

    Bookmark   January 15, 2007 at 9:34AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
homebound

Thanks. From what you say, I apparently didn't clear out the dust enough.

I'm going to unscrew a couple of them, vacuum, and see what happens.

    Bookmark   January 16, 2007 at 8:34AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ajj157

I bought a device that shoots nails through the board and into the concrete with a .22 caliber charge. I am not sure what the name of the device is but it worked nicely. I bought the tool at Home Depot for about 20 dollars. Basically you put the nail (need to buy special nails for the gun) into the tool, put the charge into the other end, then hit it with a hammer which sets of the charge driving it into the concrete. My home is 50 years old so the conrete was very hard; it works even better on concrete that is 20 years or newer.

    Bookmark   January 16, 2007 at 6:42PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jtwtech

I used the same device that ajj157 used. I think it was called Ramset. Saved me a lot of time. If you use it make sure you use hearing and eye protection.

    Bookmark   January 18, 2007 at 4:42PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

Remingont Power Driver, Ramset makes one, Hilti used to have a hammer type bnut I think all they have now are the ;gun' type with a trigger.
You may be able to rent one.
The Hilti uses .27 caliber (they may also have some smaller ones) and can drive into older concrete a lot better than the .22 caliber tools.
A .27 caliber Hilti with the corerct loads and pins can fasten 1/4 inch steel to concrete with a 2.5 inch pin (it will NOT come out) and even fasten steel to steel.

    Bookmark   January 20, 2007 at 11:00AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ekoreilly

I have a basement that had a drain put in around the permiter, foilled and concreted over. done about 13 years ago. THe Compnay, dry-basements, reccomends glueing the bottm plate done due to the concrete being thinner and more fragile. would anyone hear have any comments about doing that?

    Bookmark   January 20, 2007 at 7:20PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

How thin did they leave the concrete over the drainage pipe?
You really only need about one inch for Tapcons.
Using powder actuated stuff might cause some cracking and would not be a good idea.
Epoxy would hold better than the typical construction mastic, but stinks even worse (but at least is not flammable).
Larger quantities of epoxy are available from West Systems and other vendors.

    Bookmark   January 23, 2007 at 10:38AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ekoreilly

I'll take a pic tomorrow and post it. It was contracted out by the original owners, thus I am not how thick the concrete is, however I do see many hairline cracks.

    Bookmark   January 24, 2007 at 9:25PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
brickeyee

If you do not have any place to tell how thick it is I would not drive any fasteners.
Mr. Murphy never sleeps and you will end up wiith a hole in an undesired spot.

I would use either epoxy or polyurethane construction adhesive.
The poly is easier to use and sets up very solid. It also holds on both concrete and wood very well.

    Bookmark   January 27, 2007 at 2:37PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Electrician on his way...
OK, we are in the beginning stages of wiring - and...
3ilovepie
Replacing Steel Column With Stud Wall?
I am interested in replacing a steel column with a...
atv_freak
Flooring System over a basement
In my current house we used 16-18" deep floor...
AZN8TIV
1250sqft Basement heating question
This may be a crazy question as I have not found anything...
MCHammmer
Basement tile grout sweating
Hi Experts, We have a new house (1 year old, Hamilton,...
Joe Regular
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™