Nice plan drawing, rhome!

ecranny, I really think you need to either make the powder room wider or move the door to the long wall. You just won't have enough room to open the door and move past the sink. Even pedestal sinks generally extend 17.5" to 21.5" into a room, which leaves you with only 20.5" to 24.5" to walk past the sink to the toilet. Rhome's powder room in her plan posted at 15:18 is the best configuration of this space.

If you're open to going with a range instead of cooktop/wall oven set-up, I have an idea that tweaks rhome's 1st plan posted at 18:13. Move the fridge to the right of the sink. Move the DW to the left of the sink. Cooktop is range. The wall where she shows fridge and cabs is where the extended powder room wall is. Does this make sense?

Are you open to having a range instead of cooktop and wall oven set-up?

And, Lisa, what if the top 18:03 plan had a range and the fridge where the oven is? Then the powder room wall could move over for that one, too.

18:03 with range, bigger bathroom and pantry cab:

Much, much better, rhome! Good flow through the house and the kitchen and a large enough bathroom so that it no longer seems like an afterthought.

ecranny, I understand why you might want a cooktop/wall oven set-up but given the size of your kitchen, it would function much better and be roomier if you went with a range.

great ideas lisa and rhome! one problem with rhome's 21:58 plan is there is a chimney exactly where the range is. I don't think I could move the range to the side because there would be no counter surface next to it, but I am open to using a range instead of a cooktop. I would really like a gas range and an additional electric wall oven/microwave combo somewhere. What about putting the range/cooktop on the island? Is there enough space around the island to do that?

I'm confused! I have the range where you had the fridge. You said the chimney was right behind the fridge, so, I assumed it to be on the dining room side of that wall? So why can't the range be where it is in my plan? I'm missing something, I guess...

There is a chimney there? Wouldn't that also be in the way of the fridge in your plan? I must be missing something.

But yes, you can install range or cooktop in an island. Just know the pros and cons before proceeding. The first is to make sure you have sufficient landing space on either side. NKBA recommends a minimum of 16" to one side, 12" to the other, and 9" behind it. I have 16" on either side and 13" behind it (without seating) and I wish I had more room around my cooktop. It's just enough to fit a small cutting board and not much else. The other part of the problem is due to my lay-out. The 16" to the left of my cooktop also happens to be the landing space for items from fridge, oven and pantry. It gets very crowded.

The other thing to consider is that island venting is expensive and limited. If you do a range, you don't have much choice but to go with an island hood, starting at $1000 and going up. Yes, there are the Jenn-air ranges that have venting built into the top of the range but a vent that close to the flames pulls flames more than fumes and smoke. If you do a cooktop, you can go with a downdraft. I'd opt for one that rises at least 10" or more. It's been a bit since I priced them but IIRC, they were more than $1000 to start. Today's pop-up downdrafts are heads and tails better than my current 7" pop-up downdraft but they still don't function as well as a hood. Then there's the issue of installing the venting, tricky and expensive either way you go. If you have easy access above or below the kitchen, that helps.

You may also want to consider whether you want the island at one level or raise the bar to offer a bit more protection from spatters to those seated at the island. Again, this depends on how much space you have. If you do a downdraft, that might provide enough of a barrier and you could keep the island all one level.

I just had an idea (wish I was as good at Paint as rhome to show you, not just tell you). What if the island was turned perpendicular to where it is now? You could extend it towards the support post/wall, giving you more room on each side of an island cooktop and deeper to provide distance between those seated at the island and cooktop spatters. You might even be able to make the island a bit longer since there won't be anyone sitting at the end between island and table. People would be seating in what is sort of the hallway but I think there is enough room to do this. rhome, what do you think?

lisa, I like the idea of turning the island 90 degrees, and also the raised bar idea. As for the range hood, I had 2K in the budget, and I have 12" of space below the ceiling, so I have plenty of options there.

If you take a look at the last drawing in my very first post, you can see the fridge and a cabinet to the left of it. The chimney is actually behind that cabinet, the shelves in the cabinet are only 5" deep - just deep enough to store canned goods and spices. I just realized that my plan is a little bit off, because that cabinet should be 36" wide and the fridge is 42" wide. I should probably update the base plan so it reflects what is actually there more accurately.

Aha, the ol' chimney hiding in the cupboard trick. Are there any other limitations?

$2K may or may not cover island venting. I was shocked to see how expensive it would be to install a hood (back when we thought we'd stick with our lay-out). Moving our cooktop to the perimeter, even with the cost of moving the gas line, will save us a grand or more (likely more) because perimeter venting is so much less costly.

If you do a raised bar, make sure you still have enough counter space in your kitchen. One advantage about a one-level island is that you can really spread out - very beneficial when baking. A two-tier island isn't as handy for this. I've never had one but I suspect the top tier of a two-tier island only gets used when someone is seated at the island. If this isn't regularly, it seems a shame to give up prime real estate in a modest kitchen.

Oh, and when I say enough counter space, I should add make sure you have enough useful counter space. The numbers could add up nicely but if it's all broken up in bits here and pieces there, it's not useful. I have a 29" wide counter between wall ovens and wall and it's wasted space in my kitchen. It's not enough to do much of anything except collect stuff. Drives me batty. I wish I could remember where I read this but it seems the magic number is 42 (and no the source wasn't "Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy"! LOL). 36" is workable but 42" seemed to be the ideal. Sure wish I could remember where I read this....

Like this, Lisa? Not sure, like on many of the plans, how to transition from doorway on the right to the opening on the left, but maybe having the island up to it will help? The good thing about this plan is that you again have the choice to have a wall oven and cooktop.

Yes, like that, rhome, thanks for drawing it up. Does that give about 20" or so on each side of the cooktop? With it across from the fridge, I'd hope it was at least that generous.

Is there enough room to extend the island a bit past the support beam towards the table? I can't read the squares well enough to know how much room there is.

ecranny, I know I'm the one that suggested the two-tier island but given that you can have such a deep island with the latest version, you might not need to do that. Then you'd have the option of using the full width of either end of the island. Given how little counter space you have, that would be an advantage. Here's advice from CKD Kelly Morriseau about counter space needs (it was my question she answered. Yes, I've been planning to do my kitchen for some time now).

Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchen Sync: How much kitchen space is required for a cooktop and oven?

I think it would make my heart race, and not in a good way, to extend the island past the end of the room. ;-) Just something that seems wrong with that...And there is only about 5 ft between table edge and island as it is (a nice distance), and I'm not sure that's where the table will actually end up?

This isn't as accurate as using the drafting software, so I'd say 20" to each side of the cooktop is a good guess. Looks like the kitchen is about 12' from behind oven to the far edge of the bfast area doorway...So 2 ft for oven run, 3 1/2' for aisle, leaves 6 1/2 ft for island, so about 21-22" of counter to each side of the cooktop. The aisle could be 3" smaller, giving those measurements a bit more. Seems pretty good...Almost 2 ft. Not as ideal as 30", but not terrible. Could 'uncenter' the cooktop for 30" on one side, but not sure that doesn't result in as much negative as positive...

I would definitely stick with a one-level island. Much more useful and with this space the island can be so deep behind the cooktop, I don't think you'd need the height to shield it.

Ecranny,

What room is in the lower left hand corner of the most recent layout? I am concerned about having a traffic pattern from this room smack through the middle of the kitchen. Any way to eliminate that doorway?

Navi_jen, I'm not ecranny, but can answer, based on posts from yesterday when I thought the same thing! --That's the dining room...an important doorway and not big for traffic.

I like all of the changes made, it's starting to look like a good working kitchen. Anybody else wandering about the walls between fam room & nook ? What's that all about ? Are they necessary or load bearing ? Cuz it seems to me it'd be nicer to open up the two areas.
And what about taking the table out of the nook area all together & using a larger island. with or without the cooktop, but do sort of a seating island that extends into that nook area. The post could go on one of the corners - or in the middle of it somehow.
I have no idea how to post a picture. I'll see if I can find out how & post my idea

navi_jen, rhome is right, that is a formal dining room so not much traffic. Lisa, I do like the idea of moving the range/cooktop into the kitchen extension area, because there is already a ceiling vent that goes up to the roof. The vent is located right behind the support beam, on the 'extension' side of the kitchen, and about half way along the beam, about 6" north of the top-left corner of the island in rhome's 1:40 plan. This would be ideal, because I can not use that vent otherwise, as the beam would prevent any connection to it from the kitchen area.

Rhome, that table can go - I just put it in the design to fill the space, but since I have not bought a table yet, I can do anything with that space. I think I might prefer a banquette, or a smaller round table in the corner by the patio door. Or I could put cabinets and bookcases in that area and rely on counter seating. Does that help with your concern about moving the island into that area per lisa's suggestion, or are there other factors that seem problematic?

granite_girl, that sounds interesting, but I am not sure I can fully envision it. A picture would definately help!

I signed up at photobucket.com and thats where I post my pics. Then after uploading and saving, I copy and paste the html code from photobucket into my message here. If you have your own web site you can do the same thing, you just need to put a link into your message that points to the image file. the link will look something like ''

Hmm...Back to the drawing board now knowing the table isn't a 'must have.' I'm still sad that these things weren't figured out ahead of doing the beam, etc., because there could have been different ways to handle the load-bearing issues that wouldn't have created the limitations you have. The remaining pieces of wall create room boundaries that are going to be difficult to work past without looking as if the kitchen is slopping over into other area...But I'll try to give it a shot!

Thanks rhome. I agree it was a mistake for me to take out that wall without understanding the limitations it would create. I thought I knew what I wanted at the time (for example, I wanted to keep the breakfast nook). I will know better next time :)

btw, just to make sure everyone is aware, the wall between the family room and the kitchen extension does not exist yet. Currently it is one looong room, 30' long and 10' wide. I feel it has to be divided into 2 areas somehow, a full wall with a doorway, or a knee wall, or even a counter...

ecranny, if you can narrow down your wants for seating in the new kitchen area, that would help. The only thing I'd watch is that you don't interfere too much with the path to the sliding door (I'm assuming this is your access to your back yard). The banquettes featured at BHG's site might help you get a better grasp of what you want.

Just for grins, here's what I picture: a small L-bench in the corner under the window near the (not-yet-built) FR wall with a round table with a bookcase to the left of the banquette that extends over to the other window. You can do a combo of open storage (cookbook storage?) and solid or glass doors, too. I'd be more inclined to leave the space near the slider free so that traffic can move easily in an out of the kitchen area, especially if you are able to extend the island and have it look appropriate for the space.

Aha, I found a photo sort of what I'm thinking of, except without the second window. See #2 at the link below (in the "here's a link that might be useful" box).

Here are more inspiration pics:
http://www.bhg.com/decorating/room/dining-room/breakfast-room-banquette-decorating-ideas/

btw, you might be able to do both hood and pendent lights ala this example from Kitchen Sync's blog, http://kitchensync.typepad.com/my_weblog/2009/06/pendant-lighting-and-an-island-hood.html

Here is a link that might be useful: BHG - banquettes

Great plan, rhome, I didn't see it until now since we posted at the same time.

I like the idea of disguising the support posts with cabinetry. Reminded me of the posts with glass display bases in this kitchen for the San Francisco Dream Home giveaway:
{{!gwi}}
(I do not recommend the island cooktop lay-out in this kitchen, though. There isn't enough landing area around the cooktop, especially since it's also the landing area for oven and fridge items.)

Another inspirational photo comes from GWer shanghaimom's gorgeous kitchen:

I would think that you could easily turn those support posts into architectural assets.

They might also incorporate some little bit of usable storage space (shallow shelves or something), depending on the shape and size of the support within the cabinetry post.

With or without the island, I like this one -
Mon, Jun 14, 10 at 16:24

The two 3 foot aisles and having the dw opening into one between the cleanup sink and cooktop is kinda dicey. I guess I'd rather see a 2 x 3 foot chopping block or something on casters turning the loose "U" shape into a loose "G".

I wonder if there is an overlooked storage potential at the entrance to the front hallway. Is that a chance to repeat the archway and have 4 more linear feet of shelving or shallow depth storage cabinets?

Am posting this for Lisa, who didn't have a photobucket account from which to share this. It's her idea for the little windowseat/bookshelf nook and entrance to the family room. (If you leave only a half wall behind that seating, the kids can have a snack and probably still see the TV. We're always fighting food and dishes going into where the TV is.):

rhome and lisa, this is great! I really like these ideas. One thing I am not sure about is the old breakfast nook walls. I don't think they are load bearing but I will take another look when I get home later. I will also send some pictures of the hall area that will become incorporated into the kitchen so you can see if its discordant or not. I think at the very least the wall between the nook and the needs to be opened to allow traffic through to the family room, as you have recommended, but if there is a need to have some separation, maybe the 'faux columns' idea could be used there too...

I think this is very close, and look forward to getting your feedback after I send the photos later :)

bmorepanic, I wonder if you could check back later and look at the pictures I will posting of the hallway and surrounding area? What you are suggesting sounds interesting, and maybe after you see the photos you will be able to tell me if its doable or not - the more storage space the better :)

Here are two pics of the hall area outside the kitchen. The first one is taken as if you have your back to what used to be the breakfast nook - the bedroom is off to the left and the island (as in rhomes latest plan) is off to the right. The second picture is taken as if you are standing between the island and the oven in that same plan, looking straight ahead to the bedroom. It is framed by a wall section of the breakfast nook and the cabinet where the oven would go The door to the right leads down some steps to the garage/basement, and the powder room is opposite that door.

I looked at the breakfast nook walls and none of them appear to be load bearing except for the one at the top which is a continuation of the wall I removed. I think I can remove that section fairly easily but the 'column' that supports the new beam will have to also support a beam across the nook to the powder room. That means the column will end up being 10 or 12 inches wide.

Do you see anything in these pics that would be a concern if I incorporate the area into the kitchen?

So the support post could definitely fit in the cabinet post as I have it drawn?

I'm not really the best with comparing photos to plans, but I don't see any particular problems...but I'm not really sure what you're looking for. Love the one-panel doors and the gorgeous trim. I'd just work to coordinate well with all of that for consistency's sake.

Bmore, the aisle between the island and dw is supposed to be 42"...There are the 3 full squares and partial squares on each side of that aisle. The one in front of the oven run only has partial squares on the island side, so is more like 39". I think 36" is fine between the island and cooktop...But the island can certainly adjust to make the most workable aisles. I'd think it could still be at least 30" across the top, and plenty long.

rhome, yes I think the support post will fit just fine, and if the column ends up 12" wide I think that would accomodate shelves for display or books on one side.

My concern with the hall area is that it might turn into a no-mans-land, because of the doors and hallway proper connected to it. I was wondering if it might better to visually separate that area somehow.

Thanks, rhome, for posting my drawing!

ecranny, my drawing (my first attempt at Paint) is not drawn to scale. I did my best to guess sizes but you'll need to investigate banquette dimensions (how deep, how much space per person, etc) and drawn it up to scale. It will probably only seat 2 people (maybe 3 if you round the corner but you'd need to make sure there is enough leg and foot room) but since it's meant to be a cozy spot to have coffee with a friend or by yourself with a good book (maybe your favorite cook book?), I figured it was enough. It gives you two places for you and friends to eat in your kitchen: at the peninsula and at the banquette. You have the dining room with the great view of the harbor for larger groups.

I drew the bookcase to have a 21" deep base and a 12" deep upper. I didn't do it full depth so that it wouldn't extend too far into the room and possibly interfere with island seating and movement through the space. You could even make it 18" deep. This, along with the banquette seats, will add storage that older homes generally lack.

I don't understand your concern about the hall area. Which part do you think might turn into a no-man's land? By hallway proper, do you mean the front hallway? I noticed that the opening there doesn't have an arch. If you're concerned about transition (and it isn't load bearing), would removing that opening and molding make it less of an issue for you? Just throwing things out, not really trying to make you dismantle more of your home. ;-) Nice home, btw, love the front door.

lisa, you are right about the lack of storage space. I can't imagine what people were thinking in the 1930s! And the size of the bathrooms! My master bath is not much bigger the the downstairs powder room - I have another project in my future.

The bookcase/banquette will work - if it only seats 2 that will be fine, as you noted it will be a cozy spot for coffee and using the laptop. The hall area just seems to be sort of disconnected from the kitchen, but I am not able to picture it clearly. I will do another 3D model and animated walkthrough so I can get a better idea of how it will feel.

Thanks for all the suggestions so far, I think I am really close to getting a workable layout!

People in the '30s didn't have as much stuff as we have today. Ever hear George Carlin's routine on "stuff"? Cracked me up.

I must need more coffee to get my brain working because I'm still not quite sure I understand your hall area concern. Here's my stab at it. The framed door-less doorway (top photo above) adds a visual barrier that you think will make that space seem separate from the kitchen area. I think the division of white painted versus stained woodwork here also makes it a more obvious division between the spaces. Is that what you mean?

If that visual barrier is causing the concern, I see two ways of dealing with it. One is to eliminate it. In other words, open it up so that hall wall runs from DR entry all the way to the kitchen without division. 'Course then, you need to figure out what to do with the molding because you can't just have an arbitrary line between white and stained molding.

The other is to recreate the arch treatment of the front door, DR entry (and I'm presuming) LR entry to make it an architectural feature of the front hall. But you'd still have to deal with the white/stained molding issue. I remember seeing a fellow GWer's kitchen/home that had white painted molding and stained doors. That's an option for you but it does mean more work to marry the two halves (front stained and back painted) together.

I sure hope I haven't guessed incorrectly and put thoughts in your head that weren't there before. I should add that I'm not as familiar with old home architecture and refurbishing as others here so take my thoughts with a grain of salt.

lisa, I think my concern about the hallway area at the kitchen is something to do with the bedroom, the powder room, and the basement access all coming off that area. I am not sure if it could really be integrated into the kitchen area. I had another idea though, to close up the opening into the kitchen and build a pantry inside the kitchen against the wall that would be created - where the oven is in rhome's latest plan (the oven can't go there anyway because there is only 12" between the side wall and the chimney). Then what used to be the breakfast nook will be the entrance to the kitchen as well as the passage through to the FR. The island would be a problem if I do that.

I will draw a plan when I get home and see how it might work.

I think I'm beginning to understand your vision better. These have the old table plan instead of Lisa's cool window seat, so please disregard that room...And the cooktop overhang is drawn as an idea, not an exact shape, as it takes too long to get an arc right in Paint!

Close up kitchen door with pantry:

Close up kitchen door move fridge:

Close up kitchen door retain some sort of island:

And a different take on the cooktop area (a little rough):

rhome, these 3 plans are great. I didn't occur to me to move the fridge where you have it in the second plan. If I go for a true 24" deep built-in that would work very well. As for the island, do you think it would be best to build it as a marble-topped bakers table, or is 30" too small? I am ok with not having an island at all, so long as there is penty of counter space elsewhere.

I could see a marble top bakers table or a nice thick butcher block. I think 30" could be useful. Not sure I'd want much smaller, but I'm pretty sure there are those who have and like their free-standing butcher blocks that are more like 24" square.

Another idea...In the last plan with the small island/butcherblock, you could put the fridge and ovens back where you had them in your original plan...If you didn't mind circling around the island/block a bit to get to the fridge from the stove. At least it wouldn't be in the way when taking things from fridge to sink, and that way you could see into the oven while working at the stove.

just saw the plan with the raised bar. That would allow less overhang as well as provide a splash guard. This is a really appealing configuration. Thank you rhome :)

rhome, I like the idea of moving the oven and fridge back to where I originally had them. I think your latest plan is perfect. I will just need to play with a few details, but so far I think this is what I will go with. Thank you so much for all the advice you have given me :)

The funny thing is that it's so close to where you started and we took a very long route to get back there! But I think you can feel satisfied that you've considered a lot of options. :-) Just my inability to see what was in your head and what you wanted to accomplish for your house. I hope it all works out well.

I assume you'll draw it up in the design software, so please share how it looks! If my version of Chief Architect was current enough, you could have emailed the plan file to me and I could've imported it in and played with it on the software instead of in Paint, but I know that won't work as mine has aged too much to accept the newer versions.

rhome, while it is true that things are now located close to where I originally had them, I would never have thought to close off the kitchen entrance and create the passageway to the FR without your help. It is thanks to you and lisa working out the flow problems, and dealing with the 'awkward' position of the cooktop and counter. I can't wait to start a full model in Chief Architect.

Thanks again for all your help :)

I think I have a final layout for the kitchen, thanks mostly to rhome and lisa. There are a lot of details to take care of, like the cabinet design, what floors and ceilings to use, paint colors, seating, shelving, lighting and so on. You are going to be tired of all my questions before I am done :)

I am using rhome's latest plan (above), and here are some drawings of what I have so far. Any comments (or criticism) would be very welcome.

Doesn't it feel wonderful to have made so much progress?

One plus with closing hallway access into the kitchen, as you had in your first plan, is that the wall should block most kitchen noise from traveling down the hall to the bedroom. Another plus is that you get to keep the nook arch.

I like the bench between the book cases. That will be a cozy spot to sit. You do realize that there isn't room for a table at the bench in this plan, right? But the cabinets on either side should provide a spot to rest a coffee cup or glass of wine or whatever you or your guests want to drink while sitting on the bench.

It looks like there is room to fully open the oven doors without interfering with the cooktop on rhome's plan but your elevation looks a bit more crowded, ecranny. I'm sure this is an optical illusion but I wanted to mention it just it case you have shortened the distance between wall ovens and cooktop. One other comment - don't store the potholders in the drawers between ovens and cooktop. You'll need to remember to grab them before you open the oven doors or you'll have to close the oven doors again to open the drawer to get the potholders. Minor thing but worth mentioning as you plan where to store items.

The other thing I notice (and it's because I'm, uh, vertically challenged) is that you have the wall ovens set fairly high in the cabinet. I would burn my arms pulling anything out of that top oven - unless I stood on a step stool, that is. You may be quite tall so this works for you but don't forget to consider future buyers when you determine appliance and counter heights.

Where's your microwave?

I'm still not crazy about the powder room set-up but I understand your constraints. I thought the powder room was part of the remodel and that you were converting a closet into a powder room, not that it already existed and that you were okay with how it functioned (rhome told me this, I missed it in your earlier posts).

Do you have room for the pantries to wrap around the corner on the wall where the entrance used to be AND have the little island? Maybe if the pantry cabs are only 12", so you have 36" aisles?

lisa, the position of the range and wall ovens is not exactly right in the drawings. I will make sure there is enough space in the final plan. The oven height is not correct in the drawing either and it will be much lower in reality. If I go for a range instead of a cooktop I will probably have a single wall oven with a microwave above it, although that is not kid-friendly so I will have to think about it a bit more.

Rhome, I see what you mean about the pantry cabs and the aisle. It might be ok with 12" deep cabs if they are less wide, maybe just a single cabinet instead of the two I have in the drawing. I will see if there is something different I can do with that wall area, maybe keeping the narrow cabinet in the corner as a broom closet(because the chimney is between that and the fridge)

Two more things occurred to me, ecranny. They may or may not matter to you.

Adding that kitchen wall will block the light from the kitchen window from flowing down the back hall as it likely does now. The light you'll gain by opening up the existing nook wall to the back of the house will flow down the hall towards the front door; it won't bend the corner to light the back hall (not by much anyway). I have a similar situation in my house and the difference in light levels between my front and back halls amazes me, even though the back hall gets some light from the den windows (at the end of the back hall).

The other is that the lay-out rhome posted on Wed, Jun 16, 10 at 15:45 will likely allow more light to flow into the rooms more than the one she posted at 16:07 that day. This may not matter to you but somewhere along the way I got the impression you lived in the PNW (me, too) so I thought you might want to capture as much light as possible, especially given how gray our days have been lately (I'm sick of this weather!). You'd also gain better access to the corner cupboards if you put the ovens where you currently show the fridge (depending on appliance size and cab style - framed or frame-less - you could gain as much as 9"). You could still add the shallow cabinets to this plan. The one potential downside is that you lose convenient landing space just inside the doorway from the DR.

I'm not trying to talk you into one plan or another, I just want to help you think of all pros and cons as you make your decisions. Best to know these before you start, right?

lisa the hallway is quite dark anyway, even when the sun does decide to shine here in Gig Harbor. It is very perceptive of you to notice I am in PNW :) I am thinking of installing a tubular skylight somewhere, but if that's not possible I will have to resort to electric lighting.

I could move the ovens where you suggested, and it would give me a 9" counter next to the DR door, but I am not sure where I could put the fridge, unless I put it where the ovens are now located, but I think that would be awkward, and it would eat up counter space to the right of the sink.

I had the idea you are in Tacoma...But we are nearly neighbors, as I am in South Kitsap! We go to Gig Harbor often and actually lived in the Artondale area and went to church on Fox I. for many years. You said you have a view of the Harbor...Nice!!!

Sorry, I must not have explained myself well so let's try again.

When you enter the kitchen (looking at the sink wall), a shallow bank of pantry cabinets will be to your left against the hallway wall. Turn the corner for another shallow cabinet against the chimney. Then a pull-out broom cabinet next to it, then ovens, then DR doorway. You could also move the broom cabinet to the end of the oven cabinet facing the sink wall. A 9" counter doesn't really do much, IMO.

The fridge would be on the sink wall, just inside the DR doorway. Then counter, sink, DW, and counter to corner. The island would provide landing surface for oven items, pantry and fridge. Ditto for items coming in from the DR (unless you go right to the sink). One thing you'd have to check is that your fridge could fully open against the wall or whether you'd need to add a spacer between it and the wall. This moves the fridge closer to range, which makes it handier for quickly grabbing items as you cook. Also, since you have a range, I'm guessing the ovens won't be used as regularly so moving them farther out of the main area makes sense to me.

I just thought of another possibility. Keep current lay-out as you have it but swap ovens to DR door end. I can't tell how much space you have between DR wall and sink but maybe your DW can stay to the left of the sink.

There are pros and cons with all of these. Having the fridge or ovens open into the DR doorway could block traffic to DR. But I can also see traffic jams with ovens and range as close as you have them in your latest elevation.

I've been toying with adding a tubular skylight to our upstairs landing for years. Our gray, gray days have pushed that to the front of our project list.